home » Roof How to make slopes on windows with your own hands from putty? How to putty the slopes correctly How to putty the outer slopes of windows.

How to make slopes on windows with your own hands from putty? How to putty the slopes correctly How to putty the outer slopes of windows.

October 6, 2016
Specialization: master for interior and exterior decoration (plaster, putty, tile, drywall, wall paneling, laminate and so on). In addition, plumbing, heating, electrical, conventional cladding and balcony extensions. That is, repairs in an apartment or house were done on a turnkey basis with all the necessary types of work.

In many ways, the putty of the slopes depends on how the old window or door was dismantled. That is, from the state of the opening, which may be destroyed or intact. This, for the most part, depends on those who will install the new structure, since in 99% of cases, dismantling occurs immediately before the installation of the product. I want to draw your attention to the main twists and turns that await you when finishing, and to help you there will be a video in this article.

Plastering work for window and door slopes

The general principle of finishing the slopes of windows and doors may differ:

Putty for door and / or window slopes can be carried out according to all the rules of plastering. That is, beacons are installed in the opening and a leveling layer of the mixture is applied - first the starting layer, then the finishing layer. As a start, a cement-sand mortar can be used here;
In cases where the opening is badly broken or just for the sake of saving time, door and / or window openings are finished, which is subsequently covered with a finishing mixture and painted. In some cases, this method is the only solution besides the slope leveling alternative. brickwork due to its strong destruction.

Tools and materials

You will need a few tools for finishing:

of course it is spatulas, which you will need at least two - one to impose, and the other to stretch the finishing mixture;
in this case, a spatula with a wide blade should be slightly larger than the slope, that is, completely capture it in width;
for mixing the solution you will need mixer(drill with attachment) and rubberized bucket;
for alignment you will need long level or plumb line;
if you work with drywall, then you cannot do without screwdriver with a special attachment.

From the materials we need:

pasty or powder finishing putty;
for alignment, the instruction allows you to use starting putty, or cement-sand mortar... Also, if you wish, you can level the slopes. drywall;
in addition, drywall can be glued to the surface, rather than mounted on profiles and for this it is best to use Knauf perlfix;
definitely needed perforated corner for the clarity of the edges;
primer will be needed for any alignment method.

Preparing the putty mixture

Before puttingty the surface, you need to learn how to properly make the solution, since not only the final result, but also the process of work itself depends on this. This applies to powdery starting and finishing plaster, the mixing method for which is the same.

And it all starts with water, which is drawn in the same amount (by volume) with putty. For full-scale work, mix 1/3 of a bucket of water and the same amount of powder. The remaining 1/3 of the void is needed so that the solution does not scatter during processing.

But, be that as it may, you need to prepare as much mixture as you are able to develop in the next 20-25 minutes, until it begins to set, since after that you cannot interrupt the solution - it loses its properties. So, after filling the powder, mix it with a mixer with your own hands with water for 3-4 minutes, and then let it settle for 2-3 minutes so that there are no dry places left.

After that, interrupt the mixture again and immediately get to work - you need to have time to quickly develop the resulting substance.

Align slopes

In order not to return to this question again, I will say right away that before each "wet" finish (putty or painting), the surface must be covered with a primer. Further work is started only after the soil is dry.

Now we turn directly to the very question of how to putty the slopes on windows or doors and, of course, start with the beacons that define the contours. You can see the location of these profiles in the photo above.

It is the beacons that are installed near the window (usually 6 mm thick are used), and perforated corners along the contour. All these profiles are installed on gypsum plaster. Just be careful not to overlap the window frame too much - 3-5 mm of stratification will be enough.

But you can do without lighthouses at the frame, only in this case you will need to make a template from an ordinary wooden lath. In the figure, it is not entirely clear how to use this template by the window and I will try to explain - the cutout is made for the glazing bead. That is, the whole side of the fixture will slide along the corner, and the cut-out side will slide along the glazing bead.

In my opinion, it is even better with a template than with a beacon at the frame, since the thickness of the layer applied to the profile will be absolutely the same here.

You can also level the slopes with drywall. To do this, screw the L-guide (elka) onto the frame at the very edge of the profile, which is usually used for installation plastic panels... It turns out that the inner side of the slope will be regulated by the elka, which will subsequently be closed with a finishing putty.

The outer part of the plasterboard strip is aligned vertically using a level, although you can also glue a metal perforated corner there in advance as a guide and set the strip along it. On the side of the window, you should put mineral wool as insulation, and on the outside, glue Knauf Perlfix drywall.

Although you can use other formulations. It's just that this one has proven itself well. Even if you set the outer perimeter around the perforated corner pre-glued there, you still need to glue another one over the drywall to provide a clear edge for the finish.

Finishing putty

In cases where the slopes are finished with wallpaper or laid with ceramic tiles, you do not need a finish, but if you want to prepare the surface for painting, then let's consider the topic further. The second, finishing layer, can be applied even when the starting finish is not yet completely dry, but this is only if gypsum was used for the start, but not cement.

If you apply isohypsum to dry sand-cement mortar, your entire finish will crack in the coming months.

As I said, you will need two spatulas to work - one to pull the mortar down the slope, and the other to apply the mixture, as shown in the photo above. It is important here that the blade of a large tool is wider than the slope - this way you will get a layer practically without scars and it will be much easier to grind it.

Since you need to putty the slopes on the windows close to the frame, it is best if you first cover the frame with masking tape - then you can simply cut it flush with the finish (this measure is needed if the protective film has already been removed from the window).

Grinding and painting

Despite the fact that your plane will most likely turn out to be almost mirrored (since the spatula is wider than the slope), there will still be small imperfections in the corners that can be corrected with sandpaper. But before you start sanding, you need to wait until the surface is completely dry.

This can be determined by the presence or absence of dark spots, when they finally disappear, this indicates that there is no moisture left. By the way, if necessary, you can also walk over the entire plane and for this use paper # 20-H, 16-H, 12-H and 10-H according to GOST 3647-80, or # # P60, P80, P100 and P120 according to GOST 52381-2005.

To paint the slopes, when they are completely dry, it is best to use a woolen or mohair (but not foam rubber) painter of any width. For such a finish, as a rule, water-dispersed or water-based paints are used - they are applied in two or three layers, at least until the desired shade is created.

Conclusion

October 6, 2016

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Applying the mixture to the slope

And so, it came directly to the process of puttying. To do this, you need to take a tool of a suitable size and apply the solution to the surface. If it was not possible to plaster the surface qualitatively, it will be necessary to putty the slopes in 2 approaches: the first layer is the starting mixture, the top one is the finishing one. As a rule, it is necessary to fill up the slopes with putty in 5-7mm so that all defects are hidden. It is best to work with a trowel with a wide blade.

After the mixture is laid, the spatula is pressed firmly against the surface and moved in the direction of "itself". If the wall is badly damaged and needs to be leveled with a large amount of mortar, reinforcement will be required to better fix the mortar.

For working in the corners of the slope, you can choose a special angled spatula, which will simplify the work and improve the final result. If it is necessary to re-treat the slope with a starting putty, this can be done no earlier than a day after the first layer has completely dried.

Finishing layer

After a while, or the next day, the dried plaster is leveled by applying a second finishing layer. Too early to start leveling it is impossible - the solution "floats", loses its shape. Touch the plastered surface: the mortar should crumble, but not float.

For a fine leveling, the mortar is made a little more liquid. It is also applied and stretched. Only this time you need to make sure that the surface is flat. If necessary, the solution is re-added to the voids, filling even minor pits.

Secrets smooth plaster: do not pull the rule straight, but in zigzags

Grout

This stage creates a perfectly flat surface. It is possible to rub the plaster only after the solution has set. For this, at least 16-24 hours must pass (depending on humidity and temperature). To determine if grouting can start, take some mortar from the wall with your fingers and rub. If it crumbles, you can work, if it is smeared, we are waiting for more.

The solution is made even more liquid. It is no longer applied, but rather poured onto the surface. And it is distributed not with a spatula or a template, but with a grater - a foam surface with a handle. With this float, the solution is distributed over the surface in a circular motion. At the same time, the plaster becomes even, monochromatic. This procedure is optional, especially if then everything will be putty. But this way your do-it-yourself plaster of slopes takes on a finished look. But once again, this is not necessary.

This video describes how to plaster door slopes with cement-sand plaster. The case is not easy, the explanations are detailed, only in some places the sound is not the best.

High quality plaster of ceilings, walls, slopes

If you want really high quality putty on ceilings, walls and slopes, you need to use high quality putties and tools.

All large cracks in the ceiling and walls must be widened so that the putty penetrates deeply. Anything that does not hold well should be removed too. Then the prepared surface is treated with a primer, for example, Tiffengrund primer. A good primer is very important for better adhesion of the wall to the filler.

When the primer is dry, all cracks are sealed with high-quality fillers, such as Rotband, and for deeper cracks, fast-hardening Spachtelmassé.

Now we prime the surface again - after all, everything must be done efficiently. And finally we level with putties Vetonit KR "or" Vetonit LR "(Optirok). Thus, the slightest irregularities and roughness are smoothed out. Ceilings, walls and slopes are perfectly smooth and ready to paint.
With high-quality putty, the thickness of the putty layer should not exceed two millimeters. If the cracks in the ceiling are large enough, it is necessary to glue them with plaster fiberglass mesh, in narrow strips. This fiberglass mesh with a mesh size of two by two millimeters replaces the outdated Serpyanka tape. The plaster fiberglass mesh is pressed into the putty and rubbed with a spatula. Excess putty, which squeezed out through the cells, is removed with a spatula.

It is usually recommended to completely cover the ceiling with a thin layer of putty, the so-called “scratch layer”, and then sand this layer with fine-grained emery paper. You can also use an abrasive mesh for better results.

The main stages of work

The work is divided into several stages, so it is unlikely that it will be possible to do all the work in 1 day. You should not rush to the detriment of quality and reliability (see also the article "Finishing a cottage - the main stages").

Training

This stage is inherent in almost all types of work and includes the following steps:

Cleaning the surface from dirt... If the slopes are made of drywall, everything is quite simple, but if they are made of plaster, the entire plane should be checked, and if there are irregularities, they need to be leveled and the sagging removed.

Slope plaster must be done with high quality

If, after installing the windows, excess foam remains on the surface, it must be cut off with a construction knife so that it does not interfere with the work.
Next, you need to process the slopes with a primer, after which you can proceed to the main activities.

The main stage

Here the work is carried out in a certain sequence:

First of all, all outer corners are measured and parts of the corner are cut off. After that, a small amount of putty is kneaded, which will serve as an adhesive, it is applied in narrow strips on both sides of the corner, after which the corner is planted and recessed on it. Further, using the level, its optimal position is set, and excess solution is removed.

In the photo: the corner is planted on a layer of putty

Further, all problem areas are carefully sealed - the fit of the slope to the window and the inner corners, they can be additionally strengthened by gluing a layer of fiberglass. These works should be carried out especially carefully, as a rule, it is in these places that cracks are most often formed.
The next stage is a continuous putty of window slopes. The first layer has the function of the base, and with its help you need to try to bring the plane out as best and smoother as possible. For this layer, you can also use a starting mixture, its price is slightly lower.
Next, the final layer is applied - the filler of the slopes is made with the finishing mixture. At this stage, work should be carried out as carefully as possible - without scoring and scratches.
And finally, the surface is sanded with a special float and sandpaper with a grit of 150 microns.

Advice! The easiest way is to control the plane with a light bulb - it will show all the flaws and irregularities. It is enough just to bring it to the surface and look at the coating - the light on the plane should go evenly, without shadows.

If, after grinding, small scratches remain on the surface, they should be repaired with a thin layer of the composition, while the spatula should be pressed firmly so that the composition clogs in the cavity and does not remain on top.

Sealant for slopes of plastic windows

A plastic window no longer needs recommendations for a long time, it is durable, easy to use and allows you to keep warm in the room, unless, of course, due attention was paid to sealing the joint between the window block and the wall. ... In the absence of high-quality waterproofing

all the positive qualities of the new window will be reduced to zero, and the owner will receive damp walls, crumbling plaster and ice during severe frosts.

In the absence of high-quality waterproofing. all the positive qualities of the new window will be reduced to zero, and the owner will receive damp walls, crumbling plaster and ice during severe frosts.

Polyurethane foam considered by many to be the ideal sealant. in fact, it is not, it can be used only as a buffer material, necessarily protecting it from both ultraviolet radiation and moisture.

Water trapped in the foam pores. with the onset of cold weather it will freeze, thereby destroying the layer.

To eliminate this possibility, special sealants are used when installing slopes. applied to the foam layer and thereby protecting it from moisture.

The application is carried out immediately after the installation of the window block and the foam has hardened, the excess is removed with a knife, after which the solution is applied with a brush.

Preparation for work

To do everything correctly, efficiently and reliably, you need to fulfill several conditions: choose the right putty, prepare the surface, create conditions in the room suitable for carrying out this type of work.

Choice of putty and other materials

The leveling mixture is selected in accordance with the field of application and the scale of work:

External slopes can only be putty with water- and frost-resistant cement compositions. All types of facade putty are suitable.

Choose your outdoor materials carefully

The mixture for interior work is selected depending on the microclimate in the room. If there is constant high humidity in it (bath, sauna, etc.), then the putty should be cement or polymer. For dry rooms, you can use gypsum and lime-gypsum compositions.
If a thick layer of mortar is required for leveling, buy both a finishing and starting putty. Or a universal mixture.

Advice. In the case of the initial removal of slopes in a new building, they are shaped with plaster solutions, and only then a leveling putty is used.

Relatively flat slopes, without significant defects, can be repaired using only finishing putty.

In addition to the putty, you will need a deep penetration primer to improve adhesion of the leveling compound to the substrate, silicone sealant, perforated corners to strengthen the outer corners.

Advice. Buy a primer with antifungal additives. It will prevent mold from growing on slopes.

Any traces of mold that already exist must also be removed before priming.

The set of tools is standard: wide and narrow stainless steel spatulas, a level, a paint knife, as well as a brush or roller for priming and subsequent painting.

Surface preparation

Before puttingty the slopes, you need to clean the working surface well - remove old paint, falling off plaster, sweep away dust, cut off the assembly foam protruding from the window block.

Advice. You need to cut off the foam not flush with the frame, but a little deeper. After that, the cut is treated with a sealant to protect the foam from condensation, which reduces its thermal insulation properties.

It is convenient to cut the foam with a thin stationery knife

If the window sill has not yet been installed, it is advisable to do this before finishing the window slopes. so that later you do not have to re-level the damaged areas. In addition, the work performed in the correct sequence will allow you to immediately qualitatively seal up the joints between the slopes and the window sill.

The next stage of preparation is to protect the window frame and sill from dirt and damage during the filling process. Plastic and wooden structures can be pasted over with masking tape, and surfaces with an unstable coating, which can come off when the adhesive tape (for example, MDF) is removed, can be covered with foil or paper.

The final chord of the preparatory process is the priming of the entire work surface. The primer should strengthen the base, increase its adhesion properties, and prevent the appearance of mold due to possible excess moisture.

It is better not to save on a primer. You don't need a lot of it, so its price will not affect the amount of expenses too much. But the quality and reliability of the slopes will be high.

You can proceed directly to the putty only after the soil has completely dried. But it is also not worth tightening, otherwise dust will settle on the surface.

Registration

Painting window slopes after putty

No matter how carefully you work with the putty, you still have to sand the surface after drying with sandpaper. To treat the surface with paint, it is better to get a woolen or mohair roller. Basically, for painting slopes, they select water-dispersed or water-based paints, which cover the wall in 2-3 layers. This is what allows you to achieve the most suitable shade.

If the interior of your house or apartment allows, the slopes can not only be painted in one color, but also decorated with stucco and other decorative elements. Today, thanks to the Internet, you can watch many video lessons from experienced finishers, as well as get acquainted with design solutions... This is very appropriate if you do the work yourself and are trying to save money on the services of professional designers.

OK it's all over Now! I would like to believe that our article gave you confidence in own forces and you will cope with the task not only without difficulty, but also efficiently.

Installing a perforated corner

Use a level to set the corner.

The installed corner will subsequently help protect the slopes from various kinds of damage and help to distribute the material itself over the surface more evenly.

To do this, we measure a piece from the corner along the length of the slope and cut it off using scissors for cutting metal

It is important to make a neat sans serif cut so that nothing will stick out later.

Then you need to grease the corner itself with a thin layer of putty and press it to the corner of the slope. Here it becomes necessary to use a level in order to expose the perforated corner exactly relative to the plane.

This should not be neglected, because the curved angle of the slope will be conspicuous.

A well-made putty is the basis of any repair. This seemingly elementary process has its own subtleties. Our article will tell you how to properly putty any surface.

Cracks, grooves, potholes - all this requires processing. The putty technology does not tolerate flaws: in the future, they can cost nerves and money. In order to competently prepare any surface for painting or wallpaper, it is necessary to take into account some of the nuances, which we will discuss below.

Let's go in order.

Tools and materials for applying putty

Putty (starting and finishing, for the first and all subsequent layers, respectively);
Breeding tank;
Water;
Stick or construction mixer;
Spatulas of various configurations;
Skin.
How to putty properly? In fact, there is nothing difficult about it. We will tell you about the subtleties that must be taken into account so that the final result does not differ from the results of the work of a professional.

Putty technology: we take into account the little things

1. Despite the fact that the building materials market is now overflowing with various ready-made mixtures, it is better to take dry putties and dilute them with your own hands. This is due to the fact that you need to find "your" consistency. Someone will find it more convenient to apply a more liquid version, someone will like a thicker one. This applies to both the starting and finishing putty. Preparing the mixture is simple: pour the powder into any suitable container and gradually dilute with water at room temperature, stirring continuously. A construction mixer can be used. The amount of the finished mixture depends on the amount of work, but keep in mind that it dries up quite quickly.

2. Clean the work surface from dirt, old wallpaper or paint.

3. The next step is to apply the putty with a spatula. For large and flat surfaces (for example, walls), it is better to take a larger tool, for corners and hard-to-reach areas - a smaller one. The best spatulas are stainless steel.

4. First apply the starter filler in a layer of 5-7 mm. In particularly difficult cases, the primary layer can be reinforced with a special plastic mesh.

5. If there are large potholes in the wall, fill them to the general level first. If you need to putty the corners, use a special corner trowel.

6. Each layer of putty dries for about a day. The next layer can be applied only after the previous one has completely dried.

7. Usually two to three coats of putty are required. Apply the finishing layer with a layer of no more than 1-2 mm. Be sure to change the direction of application of the putty from layer to layer.

8. Ideally, after applying the last layer, all surface defects (seams, joints, cracks) should be hidden. However, the technology of surface putty under wallpaper allows for imperfections: it is not at all necessary that the surface is absolutely smooth.

9. The dried putty surface is treated with sandpaper. As practice shows, the 150th is most often used. It is necessary to sand each dry layer of putty. Any suitable can be wrapped with sandpaper wooden block... You can also use a hand sander.

How to putty: little tricks

When working with putty, do not forget about safety precautions. It is best to dilute the dry mixture by wearing a respirator.
If you decide to use a wide trowel, use a finer trowel on it. This will greatly facilitate the work.

After use, rinse the tool immediately with warm water. Do not rinse the water solution of the putty down the drain, it is fraught with blockages!
In the first three days after application, the putty must be protected from moisture, hypothermia or drying out.
These are, perhaps, all the main nuances of working with putty.

Slope putty

Slopes are putty in that case. if drywall or ordinary cement-sand plaster was used to finish the interior surfaces of the window opening.

A layer of putty is applied so that later the slope can be painted. but even a perfectly white surface left without painting will look very aesthetically pleasing.

If the putty solution will fit on the gypsum board, it is recommended to immediately use the finishing mark. since drywall does not require additional leveling. When putting putty on a plastered surface, use universal start / finish compounds.

So that in the future outside corner has not lost its sharp profile, it should be protected, for this, a perforated corner is installed at the joint between the wall and the slope. It can be fixed, both with self-tapping screws and with putty solution.

The entire surface of the slope must be primed and, after drying, apply the putty first with a large spatula, rubbing it over the entire surface, and with small ones, eliminate irregularities in the corners.

The movements of the trowel are always directed away from the window block and vertically up or down.

After the solution has dried, the remaining irregularities are rubbed over with a mesh. the surface is primed and painted.

Slope filling techniques

Do-it-yourself slopes

In general, do-it-yourself putty of slopes is divided into several separate types:

Under the wallpaper;
For painting.

Moreover, any kind necessarily begins with the installation of a special metal corner to be placed correctly. The quality and evenness of the surface itself will depend on this.

So, to make a putty for wallpaper, which is performed mainly for interroom and door slopes, you will need to overlay multiple layers. The first layer is carried out using a starting putty mixture or using a finishing putty solution.

It is not recommended to use the finishing mixture right away, since you first need to level the slope with a corner, and this corner usually gives a small gap. Finishing mixtures, on the other hand, are drawn in when they dry, that is, several layers of starting putty will be needed for complete leveling.

In order to level this angle, the mixture is applied with a spatula. In the process of work, you will need to completely remove all excess. After the layer is completely dry, you can proceed to the putty with the finishing mixture one or two times, as necessary.

When the finishing putty is dry, and it depends on the temperature in the room, we start rubbing the surface with a grater and prepared sandpaper. After that, the slope is primed, and you can start gluing the wallpaper.

It should be borne in mind that all interior slopes with your own hands must be leveled on both sides, that is, this layer will be slightly larger than that of window or ordinary door slopes. In this case, the same starting composition is used, the layer is leveled using a rule and a wide spatula.

At the junction of the slopes, it is necessary to glue a painting net, it will help prevent cracks. A relatively small layer of the putty itself is applied to this mesh, which is then leveled. To do this, you should carefully put your hand so that the surface is as flat and smooth as possible.

A similar technology is followed to perform work on plastering slopes for painting. After leveling and finishing work, grouting is performed using sandpaper, then a ready-made putty is applied with a thickness of one layer.

This is necessary for the complete and final sealing of all scratches and irregularities. After this layer dries, the slopes are cleaned with their own hands using special fine-grained sandpaper, then primed. Then you can already proceed directly to painting the surface.

How to prepare the surface before work

Before plastering and filling the slopes, you need to prepare the surface and necessary materials... Better not to buy ready-made mixes! Each master is accustomed to working with his own mortar consistency, so the purchased product may turn out to be excessively liquid or vice versa, which will negatively affect the result of the work performed.

Both the outer and inner slope require preparation. To do this, you need to delete the old Decoration Materials, as well as surface fragments that do not adhere well. Only then can the walls be primed. Such preparation requires both a plastic and a wooden window block. Then it will not interfere with tape and protective film to cover the glass and window frame to avoid contamination.

Where to start puttying

Plastering window and door slopes with bevel: 1 - wall; 2 - solution; 3 - rail; 4 - the position of the bevel when plastering the slope; 5 - box; 6 - malka.

Before filling the slopes, you will need to buy the necessary consumables:

masking tape;
primer;
putty (starting and finishing);
perforated corner;
grouting grid;
water-based paint.

Before puttingty the slopes, it is required to remove old paint, dirt, wallpaper and loose plaster from the working surface. Next, you need to level the slopes and cover with a good layer of primer. The quality of the primer determines how well the putty will set.

Before starting work, it is important to protect the door from contamination with masking tape. ... Today there is huge variety ready mixes for putty

But with their help, it will not work to do quality work. In order to achieve the desired consistency of the putty, the best solution there will be a dilution of the solution using dry mixtures. You need to make the solution yourself for both the starting and finishing putty.

Today there is a huge variety of ready-made mixtures for putty. But with their help, it will not work to do quality work. In order to achieve the desired consistency of the putty, the best solution would be to dilute the solution using dry mixes. You need to make the solution yourself for both the starting and finishing putty.

Plastering tools.

In order to prepare the solution, water is poured into the bucket, and only then the dry mixture is poured and stirred using a whisk or a construction mixer. It is necessary to prepare the solution in that order, and not otherwise. If you first pour the dry mixture, and then add water, then it will be taken in one large lump and nothing can be done with it.

During dilution, the solution must be constantly mixed, using a construction mixer for this. There should be as much ready-made solution as is required for work, as it dries quickly.

The next stage of work is directly puttying. Spatulas are used to apply the putty. different sizes... A wide spatula is used for walls and smoother surfaces, and a narrower spatula is used to putty in corners and hard-to-reach places. Spatulas are best used in stainless steel.

How to putty slopes putty application technology

Surface preparation

There are many different ready-to-use putty mixes on the market today. But they are not suitable for quality work. To do this, you need to take dry mixes and dilute them yourself. This is the only way to obtain the consistency necessary for the putty. After all, the consistency of ready-made putties may simply not suit you. For some, a more liquid version is needed, but for others a thicker one. This can be attributed to both starting and finishing putty. To prepare the mixture, you must first pour the dry mixture into a suitable container and gradually add water to it for dilution. The water should be at room temperature. When diluting the mixture, it is necessary to stir it constantly. For this, it is allowed to use a mixer for construction works... The amount of the mixture should correspond to the volume of work. Just keep in mind that the diluted mixture dries quickly.

When the mixture is ready, you should thoroughly clean the work surface from old wallpaper, paint and all kinds of dirt.

Surface preparation

Slope filling is a rather laborious and slow job. Before proceeding with the putty process itself, it is necessary to prepare the work surface.

Frame gluing

Cover the frames with masking tape

To begin with, we take masking tape and begin to glue over the window frames with it. This will help to keep the frames, especially the wooden ones, clean. plastic frames, if you try hard, you can wash them. It also protects the windows from damage and dirt.

Priming slopes

We take a deep penetration soil, thanks to which it is possible to achieve the best adhesion of the putty and the slope.

The choice of material should be approached responsibly, because the final result of the work will depend on the quality of the solution.

The primer itself has such properties that we need as adhesion, moisture repellency, strengthening of the surface itself, it has no complaints about environmental safety.

It is best to choose a primer that has anti-fungal properties. It will prevent future growth of fungi and mold on the surface.

Before applying the primer, it is necessary to thoroughly clean the surface to be treated from dust and dirt.

If there are elements of the old finish (paint, wallpaper, plaster, which does not hold well), then we get rid of them.

Then, using a brush, carefully apply the solution itself. It is not recommended to use a spray gun here, because the work surface is small and there is a possibility of splashing everything around.

Putty preparation

While the primer dries, it is worthwhile to start preparing the putty solution itself. Slope putty can be different: ready-to-use and dry mix that requires preliminary dilution. The finished putty has the consistency already necessary for work.

It is produced in sealed packaging. It does not require any preparation before application. Such material perfectly shades all irregularities and cracks on the surface and creates a thin finishing layer.

The dry mix, in contrast to the ready-made, is produced in paper bags or plastic bags. Their advantage is a longer shelf life in comparison with the ready-mixed mixture. Buying a ready-made or dry mixture - you should decide on this yourself.

Step by step description of the process

Now let's take a closer look at the process of finishing windows. Having carefully studied it, you will do all the work quickly and efficiently.

Preparatory stage

Before proceeding with the application of the putty itself, it is necessary to perform certain preparations, in particular, to glue the box with masking tape.

This will allow you to:

protect the frame from mechanical damage;
protect the frame from contamination with putty and primer.

After all, metal-plastic frames can still be washed with relatively little effort, but wooden frames can be permanently damaged, especially if a deep penetration primer gets on them.

The next stage of preparation is the application of a primer. The best option would be to use a material such as Ceresit CT 17, which penetrates deep into the surface and guarantees the subsequent high-quality adhesion of the putty.

Surface priming

This type of primer has the following positive properties:

significantly strengthens the surface, including dust binding;
does not adversely affect the vapor permeability of the surface;
the absorbency of the base is significantly reduced;
completely safe.

Advice. In the old fashioned way, some instead of a primer use PVA glue, counting on its adhesive effect. But still, this is far from the best way, given that today on the modern market of building materials there are primers that provide a more dense subsequent adhesion of the putty.

Corner fixing

The next step is to install a perforated corner.

The installation process involves the following:

measure the length of the slope;
measure the length of the corner;
cut off the corner with scissors for cutting metal;
the corner of the slopes is lubricated with a thin layer of putty;
sets a corner on the putty.

Advice. To make your slopes as flat as possible, you need to mount the corners strictly according to the level - this will ensure the quality of all work. To do this, attach the level to the set corner and if there are any deviations, then just press it harder.

The installation of corners is necessary in order to protect the corners of the slopes from mechanical damage, and also greatly simplifies the process of applying finishing to the surface.

Putty on slopes

First, it is recommended to apply a starter coat - this material is characterized by a coarse fraction, and therefore is excellent for ensuring the leveling of surfaces. It is applied along the slope, and after the first layer dries, you can apply the second, but not along, but across, in the direction from the window to the corner.

Blurring the corners

When you have finished applying the second starter coat, and it is completely dry, sand it off using sandpaper, and after that you should immediately start applying the finishing layer of the material.

The best option would be to use the so-called universal material, or, as it is also called, "Start-finish" two in one.

The application process is as follows:

over the entire area of the slopes, apply it with a thin layer. This will help prevent clumps from forming;
The finishing layer is not used for leveling, since after applying the starting layer, the surface should be as even as possible.

To sand the slopes, move the sanding float in a circular motion, and next to the box and at the inner corners of the slope - in strictly even, straight vertical movements. Install sandpaper on the grater, the grade of which is 150.

Final stage of finishing

When the top layer is dry, you can safely proceed to the final stage of finishing, which involves painting. To do this, select the shade of water-based paint you are interested in and apply it with a narrow, small roller.

Slope painting

Advice. In order for the paint to "grab" better and stay on the surface as long as possible, not to fade, the surface must be primed with acrylic putty.

Why paint with a small roller?

For at least two reasons:

it will be inconvenient to work large;
the slopes are small.

Tools and materials

When filling slopes, you cannot do without the following tools:

several steel spatulas;
scissors for metal carving;
electric drill or hammer drill;
drill attachment - mixer for stirring the solution;
a bucket for stirring the putty;
brushes, roller.
level.

As materials you will need:

Deep penetration soil.
Finishing putty.
Perforated aluminum corner.
Grinder or sanding float.
Fine sandpaper.
Masking tape.
Water-based paint is better.

Armed with the materials and tools from this list, you can get down to business.

Slope putty

Slope putty where to start? Well, first of all, you need to make such a slope. Depending on the method with which the slopes are made (from drywall or plaster), it is applied different technology and materials for putty.

Slope putty can be divided into two types: for painting and for wallpaper, and it does not matter which slopes we will putty window, door or interior. ... So, let's begin, we begin the putty of any slope by installing painting corners, read how to install a corner here

We installed a corner, wait 1 - 2 hours, depending on the applied putty when installing the painting corner, stir the putty, and start the process itself.

So, let's start, we start the putty of any slope with the installation of painting corners, read how to install a corner here. We installed a corner, wait 1 - 2 hours, depending on the applied putty when installing the painting corner, stir the putty, and start the process itself.

Wallpaper putty is used mainly for door or interior slopes. It is better to do the first layer with a starting putty or a solution of starting and finishing putty. It is undesirable to putty immediately with the finishing coat, since the first layer evens out the slope along the corner, and the painting corner gives at least a small, but a gap, and the finishing putty tends to retract when it dries, so for good alignment of the slope you will have to apply a layer of starting putty several times just for the alignment itself ...

To level the slope, apply a putty, then level it with a spatula, removing the excess putty. After the leveling layer has dried, stir the finishing putty and putty the slope 1 - 2 times. After the finishing layer has dried, depending on the temperature in the apartment for 1 - 2 days, we rub the putty with a grater with sandpaper and primer, everything, the slope is ready for gluing wallpaper.

Interior slopes are leveled with paint corners on both sides, respectively, the leveling layer will be larger than that of door or window slopes.

For leveling, we use a starting putty, which we apply along the slope between the corners, and level it with a wide spatula or with a rule. Next, putty with finishing putty.

At the junction of the slopes, we glue a painting net (serpyanka) to prevent the formation of cracks.

Apply a small layer of putty to the mesh and align it along the slope.

When puttingty a slope for painting after leveling and finishing with a finishing putty and grouting with sandpaper, a ready-made putty is used, which is applied in one layer, to seal minor irregularities and scratches. After drying, we clean the slopes with fine-grained emery paper, prime them. Everything, putty of slopes can be considered finished. Next, we move on to painting or wallpapering.

Mortar preparation and puttying

Data for the choice of plaster.

To begin with, a starting putty is being prepared. When preparing it, it is very important to adhere to certain proportions: for 30 kg of putty, 12 liters of water are required, or 2-2.5 liters of water are used for 1 kilogram of putty. It often happens that there is no time to observe the proportions, therefore, for quick mixing, first pour water and pour in a putty so that a small slide rises above the water. The solution is mixed so that the mass is a homogeneous consistency, without lumps, like sour cream.
The next step is to cover the slopes with a starting putty. To date, not a single major or even cosmetic repair is complete without the use of a starting putty, and it is also used to finish internal surfaces, door and window slopes. Professionals who are engaged in renovation work know that without components such as lime and gypsum, a good starting putty cannot be prepared. Besides them, a variety of harmless binders are also used.
For starting putty, the layer should be no thicker than 5-7 mm. This thickness is enough to cover some noticeable damage to the plaster and get a fairly flat surface.
Putty the slopes with a starting putty with a narrow and wide spatula. Moreover, the putty is applied to the wide one with the help of a narrow one. Using a wide trowel, the putty is applied to the slopes, which lean against the wall.
If the surface is flat, then the starter filler can be applied in a significant amount and with a wide smear. It is necessary to putty from the bottom up, while the spatula must be pressed tightly against the wall. If there are divorces, they are not touched, then a smear is made at the bottom of the divorce with a small amount of solution. If you need to apply putty on a small area, you will have to work a little until your hand feels the layer.
For difficult cases, the starting layer needs reinforcement. For reinforcement, a special plastic mesh is used. For outer slope corners, a perforated corner must be installed. It protects the slope from all kinds of mechanical damage and greatly simplifies the filling process. The size of the required corner is determined based on the size of the window, then, using metal scissors, cut to the required length and set using a level. Before installing it, putty is applied to the base and a corner is laid on it.
If the putty slopes have recesses, then first of all they should be filled with mortar so that they are at the same level with the main surface. To putty the corners, use an angled spatula.
For the application of subsequent coats of putty, it is very important that the previous coat is completely dry. Each layer dries for at least a day.

Preliminary work

The surface adjacent to the window must be prepared before applying the leveling layer.

It is advisable to install the window sill before leveling the slopes. This will allow all the work to be carried out in a better quality at one time.

The mounting foam protruding beyond the surface of the window structure is carefully cut off with a clerical or construction knife. In this case, it is recommended to go a little deeper behind the window block: in this case, the cut can be filled with sealant. It will close open pores in the foam and prevent unwanted moisture from entering.
Masking tape protects the elements of the window opening from pollution. If there are surfaces that can be damaged by masking tape, then they are covered with plain paper.
The entire surface is cleaned of old wallpaper, paint and dirt.
Remove loose pieces of plaster or brick and prime the surface.

It is desirable that the primer mix has pronounced antifungal properties.

How to properly putty slopes on windows

But during the operation of windows, it is not always possible to avoid scratches and all kinds of damage. And if it is quite simple to replace the fittings, then getting rid of traces on the surface of the slopes and window sill is problematic. The way out is to purchase a putty for plastic and repair the defects.

A window sill with large cracks should be replaced, since repairs with putty on plastic will not strengthen the crack and a trace of damage will still remain. But for small scratches, the use of special compounds will be a good option.

Any type of plastic putty has certain properties and is intended for solving specific leveling tasks. There are special elastic compounds for repairing moving cracks, for sealing joints between sheets without the use of reinforcing meshes. Expanding types of putties are also available for plastics, fixing and repairing certain structural elements. Universal types of putties are produced, which are inherent in almost all the functions of the listed types. Plastic putty is usually required in small quantities for minor repairs. Therefore, it is convenient to buy an even expensive universal paste, given that one composition can solve a number of other problems.

Restorative composition for putty plastic windows used for minor damage, cracks and incorrectly drilled holes... These formulations include "COSMOFEN RM", which consists of two components: powder and liquid resin. This composition can be used to putty on plastic on vertical surfaces due to its high viscosity and adhesion. Also, this material adheres well and is resistant to ultraviolet radiation.

Before using putty for plastic windows, it makes sense for shallow scratches to try to grind the damage with abrasive substances and polishes. You can also use a thinner for sanding, because even the most plastic filler will differ from the surface being repaired.

If you have sufficient experience with plastic putty, you can use a special paste for plastic windows. It is applied to scratches, "eats" into the plastic, after which they carry out grinding and polish the place of application.

Often, foam is used to insulate buildings, since its use reduces heating costs, it does not rot, has a small weight compared to other insulating materials, and is easy enough to install. The sheets are glued to the wall surfaces and the foam is putty. Foam glue is produced by many companies: Master, Cerezit and others.

To protect the foam during external insulation, it is possible to putty on the foam with CM11 glue from Ceresit. For work, you will need additional painting corners, a reinforcing mesh. The work should be done in parts about a meter wide and in the height of the wall. Further, the work on the foam plastic putty does not differ from the usual facade putty.

Styrofoam putty protects the boards from external exposure to sunlight, mechanical damage. For stronger protection, you can use the optional decorative plaster with marble chips, acrylic based. The device of such a plaster does not require the use of a reinforcing mesh. A wide choice of colors combined with durability will give the surface the required qualities: beauty and functionality.

Windows and doors

DIY putty on slopes

After the plaster of the slopes has been made, you can proceed to their finishing, namely, plastering and painting. Almost any person can do this, therefore, dropping all doubts, you can get down to business.

Before puttingty the slopes, you will need to assess the condition of the opening from the solution. Ideally, it should represent a design that does not have significant defects and is fully suitable for further processing. It should be noted that the plastered slopes must be dry and the material must not crumble.

The next step in this direction is the priming of surfaces, and only after the composition has dried, it is possible to proceed to the implementation of the basic operations.

In order to properly putty the slopes, you should stock up on such materials in advance as putty (starting and finishing) perforated corner, while as the main tool you may need a set of spatulas, a drill with a whisk attachment, a trowel with replaceable meshes.

The technology for performing finishing works of the presented type implies the following activities.

First, the perforated corners are cut to the size of the outer corners of the opening (using ordinary scissors). Then a small portion of the starting putty is diluted in a clean container. Moreover, it is desirable to do this in the following sequence:

Poured into a container required amount water;
The required amount of putty is added;
The entire composition is mixed with a whisk for 3-5 minutes (until a uniform mass is obtained).

The next step is to install the perforated corners. For these purposes, the putty is applied with a construction trowel in the places where the elements are pre-installed. And after that, the perforated corners are, as it were, glued in the required places, so that their shelves fit snugly to the base surfaces of the opening. Excess material resulting from the implementation of this procedure is leveled with a spatula.

It is advisable to carry out further work after a while, necessary for the hardening of the putty and fixing the corners. Similar to the above method, a new batch of putty is diluted, but before that it is required to completely clean the container from dried material residues. After that, the putty is applied to the working area of the trowel (it is advisable to use a tool with a width exceeding the depth of the slopes) and evenly distributed over the base plane of the opening.

It is advisable after this to interrupt the work, until the composition completely solidifies. In the future, the slopes are rubbed with a float with emery nets and re-primed. And at the final stage, the putty composition is reapplied to the surface of the slopes, and the more correct option would be to use the finishing type compositions for these purposes. Then, as in the previous method, the slopes are re-filled and trowelled accordingly. Ideally, the entire surface of the slopes should have an even structure, therefore, if necessary, several layers of material should be applied.

After produced do-it-yourself putty of slopes the surface can be subjected to any subsequent finishing option (staining, whitewashing, wallpapering).

How to paint walls correctly

DIY decorative plaster

How to align walls with plasterboard

For review, we suggest watching a video on how to putty slopes for painting:

If you liked the material, I will be grateful if you recommend it to your friends or leave a useful comment.

Step-by-step instruction

Pre-builders recommend protecting the outer corners. To do this, use perforated corners made of the appropriate metal. This material is cut and glued to the corners of the opening using a putty (starting or finishing). For quick solidification, plaster glue is used.

Stages of drywall putty.

You need to apply the composition at an angle from 2 sides (in the form of a continuous strip). If you apply the glue in places, then the perforated corners will begin to bend. The prepared last element is pressed into the putty applied to the surface until it stops. To make the slope even, use a plumb line or level.

The next step involves leveling the mixture that has seeped through the holes in the perforated corner. Using a spatula, the angle is leveled from 2 sides. The mixture is added if necessary. At this stage, the arrangement of drywall slopes does not provide for a complete seal of the cracks. If a putty was used to carry out this work, then the next steps will be carried out after it has solidified. Otherwise, work will be continued after 60 minutes (for glue).

For the arrangement of drywall slopes, a spatula is used, the size of which must exceed 100 mm. This tool is selected taking into account the width of the slots. Pre-carefully close up the places of laying drywall to the surface. If this process is carried out in the area of the window frame, then the work begins from the angle of conjugation of the lateral and upper surfaces of the slope. Then the 1st layer of primer is applied. The initial embedding of drywall slopes does not provide for the formation of mounds. If the composition is dry (does not reach for the spatula), then the 2nd layer is applied. In this case, the putty must dry completely, so the subsequent actions will be carried out the next day.

Technology

Slope plastering begins after the surface of the main walls has been leveled. The work is going to be dirty, therefore it is desirable door leaf, cover the floor and door frame with foil, oilcloth or other similar materials. The jamb can be pasted over with masking tape - it will be easier to clean.

Training

The first stage of work is surface preparation. First, remove poorly adhered plaster, pieces of brick, other building material... If the doors have been changed, the old plaster can stick out a lot. In this case, even if she holds up well, she is knocked down.

If the old plaster sticks out strongly, it is chipped

Then, grease or oil stains, if any, are treated with neutralizers. Old paint is also peeled off: the plaster does not adhere well to it. After - dust and dirt are cleaned off.

If the cracks were not foamed when installing the door, you will need to do it now. Polyurethane foam is applied to the wetted surface in volume - no more than 1/3 of the required amount. First, all the dust is cleaned, then moistened with a spray bottle. After a few minutes, it will greatly increase in size, filling in all the empty gaps. After waiting for the foam to polymerize (harden), cut off the excess with a knife. It is more convenient to do this with an ordinary stationery for paper.

Do-it-yourself installation of door slopes begins with sealing the gaps between door frame and a wall

If the plastering will be a cement-sand mortar, the surface is moistened. This can be done from the same spray bottle or with a brush or roller.

Setting up the guides

Plastering slopes with your own hands, as well as walls, is more convenient along the guides. Outside the doorway, to obtain an even and rigid edge, a perforated paint corner is usually placed. Once well secured, it can be used as a guide.

It is cut to the height of the doorway. The upper edge of the corner, which will be adjacent to the main wall, is cut down at an angle of 45 °. It is better to do this, since during work this edge for some reason always bulges up and causes a lot of inconvenience.

There are several ways to fix the corner:

Gently apply the mortar to the inside of the corner, then press it against the corner. It is necessary to apply the solution carefully: the walls are made very thin and even from a small mass it breaks. Therefore, it is better to use the second method.
The solution is applied to the corner, and the corner is pressed into it.
Too much solution should not be, but voids too

Having pressed the corner well, it is leveled so that its edge is flush with the main wall. The solution protruding through the holes is removed with a spatula. Then they take an even bar (you can use a building level or a rule), apply it to the corner, checking how even the corner is exposed. Check both from the side of the main wall and from the side of the slope.

The procedure is repeated on the other side, and then from above. At the junction of the corners, the absence of drops can be checked by sliding your finger along the junction.

There is another way of attaching the corners - on nails or on self-tapping screws. This method is good when working with drywall, but when plastering it is not used: the hats get in the way.

When plastering door slopes, it is convenient to use a template

The second guide is the doorframe. When installing the doors, they were exposed exactly, so this is a good reference point. But since the solution should not cover the entire surface of the jamb, a template is cut out of some dense material, with which the solution is then leveled. It is better to cut it out of a piece of plastic: both the edge is smooth, and it slides well, and quite dense. You can use a piece of flat wood plank. Only the edge that will cut off the excess mortar should be perfectly flat. The part of the template that will slide along the jamb is made in the form of a step. This protrusion will remove the excess solution.

You can work with a spatula or a rule, but then a beacon is installed and fixed along the jamb at the required distance. The tool rests on it when cutting off excess mortar.

Slope plastering can be carried out along the guides

In this video lesson on plastering slopes, the technology for attaching perforated corners is explained in detail, and explanations are given on the technique of applying putty for finishing.

The starting putty is currently an indispensable material for cosmetic and overhaul and is the penultimate instance in the interior decoration of the premises. It's no secret that the starting putty is made from several components. The two most important components of which the starting putty consists are gypsum and lime, the other components of the starting putty are binders chemical substances, without harm to human health, and of course for other inhabitants. It is the starting putty that differs from other types of putty by its grinding of the main components of the starting putty. Grinding of the fraction of gypsum and lime in the starting putty is 80 MPa, this grind is considered large compared to the finishing putty and medium grind compared to the plaster mix. The maximum layer of applying the starting putty is one and a half centimeters, this is quite enough to close visible defects on the plaster, such as shallow depressions, cracks and thoroughly level the surface.

Preparation of the base for applying the starting putty.

As with any other work with mixtures, first of all, you need to clean the base from poorly adhering parts of the wall, for example, such as: falling off part of the plaster, knocked out pieces of concrete, crumbling parts of the wall, fungal base, uncertain or swollen parts of the base should be dismantled before applying the starting putties. The BASIC rule that every builder should know is that the base must be primed before applying the starting putty !!! The base is primed before the starting putty is applied thoroughly and it is desirable that the primer be of the same company as the putty, the adhesion of the putty to the wall depends on this.

There were just such cases when work was carried out with a starting putty of one company, and the primer of another company and after that places in which a primer of another company was used gave delamination from the walls of the starting putty, but when they worked with one type of raw material, such problems.

We knead and apply a starting putty.

Before applying the starting putty, of course, you need to mix it. The proportions of mixing the starting putty according to the technology are as follows: for 12 liters of water thirty kilograms of putty or for one kilogram of putty two, two and a half liters of water, which is not always suitable for working with volume, because you need to work quickly and there is not enough time for proportions when mixing. and I don’t want to spend. So pour water and boldly fill in the putty until a small hill of starting putty appears on top of the water. I would like to note that it is better to knead the starting putty with a wide whisk and knead until the lumps disappear in the putty and it turns into a homogeneous mass resembling sour cream. Here is the solution and is ready to be applied to the wall or ceiling.

The starter putty is applied to the wall using a wide and narrow trowel. Apply the starting putty with a narrow spatula on a wide and tightly pressed spatula with a wide spatula to the wall, apply the putty. The technique of applying the starting putty is individual for each, and it can be applied in different ways, it all depends on the base and on the volumes.

With an even base and large volumes, the starting putty is applied to the spatula in large portions and sweeping strokes. It is applied to the wall from bottom to top and press the spatula against the wall as tightly as possible. We leave the stains that turned out on the wall as they are, just fix the solution and at the very bottom, together where the divorce turned out, we make a smear and so on along the entire wall. If you need to rise higher for the joints of the dried putty with a new layer, you don't have to worry, the old joint layer is rubbed with a trowel net. in more detail about the use of a trowel grid here. If you need to put the starting putty on a small volume of the surface, then you have to tinker a little and the hand should feel at least a little the layer of application, or you will have to putty in several approaches and in several directions.

Finishing features

Slope putty for painting

If the homeowners plan to overlay the slopes with ceramics or hide them under the wallpaper, finishing is not required. But, if in the future you decide to paint the walls, you will have to carefully plaster and putty them. We talked about how to putty a brick or block slope with a starting putty, now we will tell you in more detail about the finishing design. The finishing putty can be used even when the starting compound is not dry, but only if gypsum was used as the starting mixture.

To complete the finish, you will need 2 spatulas with different working blade widths. With a small spatula, put a mass on a large one, with which the putty is directly pulled along the slope

How the work is carried out

Slope preparation

The surfaces of the slopes are leveled. Remove old flaking coatings. If there are protrusions, layers of paint, they are chipped off with a hammer, spatula or other tool. The remnants of polyurethane foam are cut off around the newly installed windows.

Slope plaster

The quality of all subsequent work with windows depends on the accuracy and thoroughness of this stage. The walls are pre-treated with a deep penetration primer using brushes and rollers.

Installation of beacons... They are placed along the inner corner of the slope at a distance of 50 mm from the edge and fixed with plaster or plaster putty. Measure the length of the slope, cut the beacon to the desired length and set it to the level. They start from the side slopes, end with the top. Beacons must be strictly vertical.
Decoration of outer corners... You can shape the corners with the help of plastic painting or perforated metal corners, plywood beacons (even homemade ones). Evaluate with a plumb line the correctness and evenness of the angle. Apply a small amount of putty, apply a corner, trim, remove excess.
Preparation of plaster mix... For the design of slopes, use cement plasters or other compounds. The dry mixture is poured into water in the ratio indicated on the package, and thoroughly mixed with a construction mixer. To prevent the mixture from hardening, knead in small portions.
Slope plaster... The composition is applied with a spatula of medium width, filling in all the irregularities. Spread the mixture with a wide spatula and at the same time press it against the beacons. Align from bottom to top. When processing the upper slope, it is recommended not to bring the trowel to the wall itself, so that unnecessary traces do not remain on the fresh surface.
Final finishing... If plywood beacons were used, after the plaster mixture has dried, they are separated from the walls and the corners are trimmed. Carefully close up the corners near the upper slope and the gaps between the sides and window frame... After that, the walls are allowed to dry for about 2 days.

Slope putty

Ready putty can be used immediately, dry must be diluted with water. The slopes are putty in the direction from the corner to the center. Apply a layer about 1 mm thick at a time and level it with vertical movements along the entire slope height. After the putty dries, the surface is carefully cleaned with fine sandpaper. Fine dust is removed with a damp sponge

Apply 2 layers of putty, allow to dry and sand until an absolutely smooth surface is obtained, paying particular attention to the corners. Joints around the perimeter of the window and along the window sill are embroidered with a spatula and filled with acrylic sealant

During the replacement of doors or windows, slopes are very often damaged, and then it is necessary to re-putty them. This process is not very difficult, so almost anyone can cope with it. Before filling the slopes, you need to prepare the surface and all the materials that will be needed for the filling.

The procedure for plastering door and window slopes.

To properly putty the slopes with your own hands, you will need professional tools:

several spatulas of different widths;
a bucket for mixing putty;
wide whisk or mixer nozzle for a drill;
scissors for metal;
tray for paint;
brushes for painting and priming;
level.

Where to start puttying?

Plastering window and door slopes with bevel: 1 - wall; 2 - solution; 3 - rail; 4 - the position of the bevel when plastering the slope; 5 - box; 6 - malka.

Before filling the slopes, you will need to buy the necessary consumables:

masking tape;
primer;
putty (starting and finishing);
perforated corner;
grouting grid;
water-based paint.

Before starting work, it is important to protect the door from contamination with masking tape.

Plastering tools.

During dilution, the solution must be constantly mixed, using a construction mixer for this. There should be as much ready-made solution as is required for work, as it dries quickly.

The next stage of work is directly puttying. Spatulas of different sizes are used to apply the putty. A wide spatula is used for walls and smoother surfaces, and a narrower spatula is used to putty in corners and hard-to-reach places. Spatulas are best used in stainless steel.

Mortar preparation and puttying

Data for the choice of plaster.

To begin with, a starting putty is being prepared. When preparing it, it is very important to adhere to certain proportions: for 30 kg of putty, 12 liters of water are required, or 2-2.5 liters of water are used for 1 kilogram of putty. It often happens that there is no time to observe the proportions, therefore, for quick mixing, first pour water and pour in a putty so that a small slide rises above the water. The solution is mixed so that the mass is a homogeneous consistency, without lumps, like sour cream.
The next step is to cover the slopes with a starting putty. To date, not a single major or even cosmetic repair is complete without the use of a starting putty, and it is also used to finish internal surfaces, door and window slopes. Professionals who are engaged in renovation work know that without components such as lime and gypsum, a good starting putty cannot be prepared. Besides them, a variety of harmless binders are also used.
For starting putty, the layer should be no thicker than 5-7 mm. This thickness is enough to cover some noticeable damage to the plaster and get a fairly flat surface.
Putty the slopes with a starting putty with a narrow and wide spatula. Moreover, the putty is applied to the wide one with the help of a narrow one. Using a wide trowel, the putty is applied to the slopes, which lean against the wall.
If the surface is flat, then the starter filler can be applied in a significant amount and with a wide smear. It is necessary to putty from the bottom up, while the spatula must be pressed tightly against the wall. If there are divorces, they are not touched, then a smear is made at the bottom of the divorce with a small amount of solution. If you need to apply putty on a small area, you will have to work a little until your hand feels the layer.
For difficult cases, the starting layer needs reinforcement. For reinforcement, a special plastic mesh is used. For outer slope corners, a perforated corner must be installed. It protects the slope from all kinds of mechanical damage and greatly simplifies the filling process. The size of the required corner is determined based on the size of the window, then, using metal scissors, cut to the required length and set using a level. Before installing it, putty is applied to the base and a corner is laid on it.
If the putty slopes have recesses, then first of all they should be filled with mortar so that they are at the same level with the main surface. To putty the corners, use an angled spatula.
For the application of subsequent coats of putty, it is very important that the previous coat is completely dry. Each layer dries for at least a day.

The final stage of work

When the starting putty is completely dry, small irregularities may form on it, which must be eliminated using a special mesh.

Section of a wall with high quality plaster: 1 - sprayed; 2 - soil; 3 - cover; 4 - brick wall.

Then you can apply the finishing putty. The slopes should be smooth and even after the applied starting putty on the surface, since the finely dispersed finishing putty is not designed to level the surface.

The finishing putty is applied in a thin layer, and basically 2-3 layers of putty are enough. As a result, the finishing layer should be no more than 1-2 mm thick. The direction of application must be changed with each new layer of putty.

After the putty has dried, the slopes are treated with an abrasive mesh, which is installed on a special grater, or with a grinder. Moreover, you need to process all the dried layers of putty. This process is not difficult, the main thing is not to make a lot of effort during mashing, as this can lead to scratches on the slopes. After the main surface is rubbed, you need to remove the mesh from the grater and rub in those places where it is impossible to get it normally with a grater, that is, in the corners.

If there is no grater available, then you can grind without it, only in this case the mesh does not need to be pressed strongly against the slope, otherwise scratches may remain, you can even remove the top layers of putty. After finishing the filling of the slopes, you can paint them.

In order for the paint to adhere well to the putty, the surface must be prepared before painting, that is, primed.

Then you can start painting using water-based paint and a roller of the required size.

Slope putty is one of the most common types of window finishes. Appearance each room depends on the renovation done in it. To glue the wallpaper, lay the laminate on the floors, whitewash the ceilings is often not enough to maintain the comfort in the house.

Unfinished window slopes are sometimes not in harmony with a seemingly complete repair, so we suggest considering a method of how to properly putty the slopes. This will help complete the facelift and add missing comfort to your home.

Moreover, step-by-step instruction will allow even novice finishers to do their job efficiently, while saving money on the services of a professional.

Tools and materials

When filling slopes, you cannot do without the following tools:

several steel spatulas;
scissors for metal carving;
electric drill or hammer drill;
drill attachment - mixer for stirring the solution;
a bucket for stirring the putty;
brushes, roller.
level.

As materials you will need:

Deep penetration soil.
Finishing putty.
Perforated aluminum corner.
Grinder or sanding float.
Fine sandpaper.
Masking tape.
Water-based paint is better.

Armed with the materials and tools from this list, you can get down to business.

Surface preparation

Slope filling is a rather laborious and slow job. Before proceeding with the putty process itself, it is necessary to prepare the work surface.

Frame gluing

Cover the frames with masking tape

Priming slopes

We take a deep penetration soil, thanks to which it is possible to achieve the best adhesion of the putty and the slope.

The choice of material should be approached responsibly, because the final result of the work will depend on the quality of the solution.

The primer itself has such properties that we need as adhesion, moisture repellency, strengthening of the surface itself, it has no complaints about environmental safety.

It is best to choose a primer that has anti-fungal properties. It will prevent future growth of fungi and mold on the surface.

Before applying the primer, it is necessary to thoroughly clean the surface to be treated from dust and dirt.

If there are elements of the old finish (paint, wallpaper, plaster, which does not hold well), then we get rid of them.

Then, using a brush, carefully apply the solution itself. It is not recommended to use a spray gun here, because the work surface is small and there is a possibility of splashing everything around.

Putty preparation

Types of putties

The finishing putty can be applied immediately decorative coating

There are the following types of fillers:

The starter putty is intended for preliminary leveling of the plane. It is responsible for thermal properties, repels and does not allow moisture to pass through. The durability and strength of the trimmed slopes depend on this type. The starting putty must have good adhesion to the surface to be treated, perfectly fills all cracks and pits, and makes the plane even. It can be applied with a layer thickness of up to 25 mm, which is important when correcting slope defects.
The finishing putty is intended for leveling and finishing the surface, on which the final decorative coating can be immediately applied. When choosing this type of putty, it is necessary to take into account its compatibility both with the coating of the lower layer (for example, plaster) and with the coating of the upper layer (for example, paint). The quality of the finish after the expiration of time depends on this: the absence of delamination, smudges, etc. In addition, you should definitely pay attention to the size of the filler grains. The smaller it is, the smoother and smoother the surface will be.
Specialized putty is intended for filling joints that have arisen during the filling process.
Universal putty designed for budget repair... It combines the properties that are inherent at the same time starting, finishing and specialized putty. It can be used for preliminary leveling of the plane, for finishing or decorative finishing.

Stir the finished mixture before application

If the mixture is ready to use, it must be mixed thoroughly.

If the mixture is dry, then you need to pour it into a bucket and add water as follows: first, pour in ¾ of the part stated in the instructions, mix thoroughly with a drill and a mixer nozzle, then gradually introduce the remaining ¼ of water, picking up the consistency that will be convenient for you for work.

Installing a perforated corner

Use a level to set the corner.

The installed corner will subsequently help protect the slopes from various kinds of damage and help to distribute the material itself over the surface more evenly.

To do this, we measure a piece from the corner along the length of the slope and cut it off with scissors for cutting metal. It is important to make a neat sans serif cut so that nothing will stick out later.

This should not be neglected, because the curved angle of the slope will be conspicuous.

Layering

How to putty slopes? For this, large and small steel trowels are used. For large areas, large tools are used, for hard-to-reach places, small ones.

Usually this solution is applied in two layers: the first - along the slopes, wait until it dries (usually it takes about 24 hours) and apply the second layer across the first in the direction from the window to the corner.

If the initial surface has a very complex character with many defects, it is justified to reinforce the plane with a plastic mesh, which will prevent the mortar from sliding down.

Before applying the finishing layer of putty, you need to wait until the starting layer is completely dry. Next, be sure to clean the surface of excess material using sandpaper and a special trowel for grinding or a sander.

The finishing coat can now be applied. Its thickness should not exceed 2 mm, because the task of the finishing putty does not consist in leveling the surface, but performs protective functions.

After applying the first coat, you can repeat the coat if necessary. However, it must be applied perpendicular to the first coat. After complete drying, we grind the surface again, remove all defects.

For more information on how to fill slopes, see this video:

We pass to the final stage of window decoration - painting. Again, it is recommended to prime the slope with a special solution. This will improve the adhesion of the putty and paint.

It is better to choose water-based paint. It must be applied with a small roller, because the slope surface is small.

So, you have learned how to putty slopes. As you can see, on the one hand, this is not an easy matter, requiring maximum attention and concentration, on the other hand, there is nothing complicated here, and even a non-professional, subject to the presented rules for filling slopes, will achieve excellent results.

Source: http://MoyaStena.ru/shpatlevka/otkosov-2

How to putty the slopes on the windows?

The slopes of window openings play an important role in the formation of the interior decoration of the room. If they are crooked or peeled, then they may well hopelessly ruin the whole impression of the installed double-glazed windows.

Firms engaged in the installation of plastic windows do not always provide such a service as putty slopes.

And if you have to install modern designs with double-glazed windows with your own hands, then you will also have to putty the slopes and paint them yourself. What does a home craftsman need for this?

What materials and tools will you have to stock up on?

The choice of putty is carried out depending on the microclimate in which the window slope will be located:

For external slopes, facade putties are perfect. They have good resistance to moisture and low temperatures.
For interior decoration window slopes of rooms with high humidity use cement or polymer putty mixtures.
For normal conditions, gypsum-based putties are suitable.

It is necessary to assess the scale of the work that will have to be done:

For even slopes without strong defects, a finishing putty will be enough.
If a significant leveling layer is required to eliminate irregularities, then you will also have to purchase a starting putty mixture.
If the slopes are removed for the first time, their initial leveling is carried out using a plaster solution, and then putty is applied.

The construction market offers ready-made raw solutions for putty, but professionals advise you to prepare the putty yourself from dry mixes. This will create the consistency of the mortar that works best for you.

You need to stock up in advance:

perforated corners;
masking tape;
silicone based sealant;
deep penetration primer.

Of the tools you will need:

a pair of spatulas - narrow and wide;
sharp knife;
building level and a roller for surface priming.

If in the future it is planned to cover the slopes acrylic paint, then it is necessary to prepare the painting tool required for painting.

Preliminary work

The surface adjacent to the window must be prepared before applying the leveling layer.

It is advisable to install the window sill before leveling the slopes. This will allow all the work to be carried out in a better quality at one time.

The mounting foam protruding beyond the surface of the window structure is carefully cut off with a clerical or construction knife. In this case, it is recommended to go a little deeper behind the window block: in this case, the cut can be filled with sealant. It will close open pores in the foam and prevent unwanted moisture from entering.
Masking tape protects the elements of the window opening from pollution. If there are surfaces that can be damaged by masking tape, then they are covered with plain paper.
The entire surface is cleaned of old wallpaper, paint and dirt.
Remove loose pieces of plaster or brick and prime the surface.

It is desirable that the primer mix has pronounced antifungal properties.

How to apply the putty correctly?

Before starting work, it is important to know that for the use of gypsum solutions, the temperature in the room should not be lower than + 10˚С. Cement mortars can be used at temperatures up to + 5˚С.

Work progress:

The window opening is measured with a tape measure, after which segments are cut from a perforated corner of the desired size. To do this, you can use metal scissors or a small grinder.

Using a construction mixer, the putty mixture is mixed. It is better to cook it in small portions in order to have time to use up the putty before it hardens. It will be useful to read the manufacturer's recommendations. The finished solution should have the consistency of thick sour cream without any lumps.
After evaluating the curvature of the surface with the help of a level, apply a starting solution with a thickness of not more than 7 mm. Put putty on a wide spatula with a narrow spatula and apply it to the surface from bottom to top with wide sweeping movements. Excess mortar is removed by lateral movements of the spatula from the window.
On the outer corners until the putty mortar has hardened, pre-prepared sections of the perforated corner are attached. The corner is set according to the level. Excess mortar protruding through the perforation holes is removed with a spatula.
If the leveling of the window slope requires a significant layer of putty, then each subsequent layer is applied only after the previous one has hardened. To increase the strength, you can use a thin fiberglass reinforcing mesh.

Important! To prevent cracking of the putty caused by thermal expansion of the window elements, a thin groove is made in the fresh putty between the slope and the window block. In the future, it is filled with a sealant, which will serve as a kind of damping layer.

After leveling and drying, the surface is treated with abrasive paper. For convenience, it can be stuffed onto a wooden block. As soon as all irregularities and traces of the trowel have been removed, a finishing putty is applied. Its layer should not be thicker than 1 mm.
After letting the surface dry, it is once again treated with sandpaper, after which you can walk on it with paint.

At the final stage, all protective elements are removed from the window block and sill: masking tape and paper.

Thus, it is not at all difficult to putty the slopes on your own. If everything is done correctly and accurately, then this will not only give a finished look to the window opening, but also save significant money.

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Source: https://mr-build.ru/podgotovka-osnovaniy/shpaklevka-otkosov.html

Putty for windows

Slope finishing

In many ways, the putty of the slopes depends on how the old window or door was dismantled. That is, from the state of the opening, which may be destroyed or intact.

This, for the most part, depends on those who will install the new structure, since in 99% of cases, dismantling occurs immediately before the installation of the product.

I want to draw your attention to the main twists and turns that await you when finishing, and to help you there will be a video in this article.

Plastering work for window and door slopes

Outdoor work

The general principle of finishing the slopes of windows and doors may differ:

Putty of door and / or window slopes can be done according to all plastering rules. That is, beacons are installed in the opening and a leveling layer of the mixture is applied - first the starting layer, then the finishing layer. As a start, a cement-sand mortar can be used here;
In cases where the opening is badly broken or just for the sake of saving time, door and / or window openings are finished with plasterboard, which is subsequently covered with a finishing mixture and painted. In some cases, this method is the only way out besides the alternative of leveling the slope with brickwork due to its strong destruction.

Preparing the putty mixture

Whipping the mixture

But, be that as it may, you need to prepare as much of the mixture as you are able to develop in the next 20-25 minutes, until it begins to set, since after that you cannot interrupt the solution - it loses its properties. So, after filling the powder, mix it with a mixer with your own hands with water for 3-4 minutes, and then let it settle for 2-3 minutes so that there are no dry places left.

After that, interrupt the mixture again and immediately get to work - you need to have time to quickly develop the resulting substance.

Align slopes

In order not to return to this question again, I will say right away that before each "wet" finish (putty or painting), the surface must be covered with a primer. Further work is started only after the soil is dry.

Installation of beacons

If you use a template, then you can do without a beacon at the frame.

In my opinion, it is even better with a template than with a beacon at the frame, since the thickness of the layer applied to the profile will be absolutely the same here.

Mounting the L-profile on the frame

You can also level the slopes with drywall. To do this, screw the L-guide (elka) onto the frame at the very edge of the profile, which is usually used for mounting plastic panels. It turns out that the inner side of the slope will be regulated by the elka, which will subsequently be closed with a finishing putty.

Using drywall to level the slope

Finishing putty

Finishing plaster of the slope

If you apply isohypsum to dry sand-cement mortar, your entire finish will crack in the coming months.

You will need two spatulas for finishing.

As I said, you will need two spatulas to work - one to pull the mortar down the slope, and the other to apply the mixture, as shown in the photo above. It is important here that the blade of a large tool is wider than the slope - this way you will get a layer practically without scars and it will be much easier to grind it.

Grinding and painting

Grinding corners

It is best to use a paint roller for painting.

To paint the slopes when they are completely dry, it is best to use a wool or mohair (but not foam) paint roller of any width. For such a finish, as a rule, water-dispersed or water-based paints are used - they are applied in two or three layers, at least until the desired shade is created.

Conclusion

Source: https://prookna.info/okna/shpaklevka-dlya-okon.html

Slope putty

How to putty slopes on windows: the whole process from start to finish

Finishing slopes after installing windows is available for do-it-yourself

New window blocks by themselves will not add aesthetics to a room if framed by curved or peeled slopes. The overall impression will be dull. But the situation can be easily corrected if you know how to putty the slopes on the windows and how to finish them after leveling. Let's talk about this topic.

Preparation for work

Choice of putty and other materials

The leveling mixture is selected in accordance with the field of application and the scale of work:

External slopes can only be putty with water- and frost-resistant cement compositions. All types of facade putty are suitable.

Choose your outdoor materials carefully

The mixture for interior work is selected depending on the microclimate in the room. If there is constant high humidity in it (bath, sauna, etc.), then the putty should be cement or polymer. For dry rooms, you can use gypsum and lime-gypsum compositions.
If a thick layer of mortar is required for leveling, buy both a finishing and starting putty. Or a universal mixture.

Advice. In the case of the initial removal of slopes in a new building, they are shaped with plaster solutions, and only then a leveling putty is used.

Relatively flat slopes, without significant defects, can be repaired using only finishing putty.

In addition to the putty, you will need a deep penetration primer to improve adhesion of the leveling compound to the substrate, silicone sealant, perforated corners to strengthen the outer corners.

Advice. Buy a primer with antifungal additives. It will prevent mold from growing on slopes.

Any traces of mold that already exist must also be removed before priming.

The set of tools is standard: wide and narrow stainless steel spatulas, a level, a paint knife, as well as a brush or roller for priming and subsequent painting.

Slope leveling technology

Now about how to properly putty the slopes on the windows.

The technology depends on the degree of curvature, the presence or absence of serious defects on the surface. If they are already plastered, then you just have to iron the plane with a finishing putty to get rid of small potholes, scratches, cracks and roughness.

Take for example more difficult option when slopes require leveling.

Rules for plastering the slopes of door and window openings

In this case, the main work is done with a starting putty, which can be applied with a sufficiently thick layer, applied in several layers.

It is important. Before starting finishing, make sure that the ambient temperature is not lower than +10 degrees, if using a gypsum mixture, and not lower than +5 degrees, if using a cement mixture.

The instructions for the production of work are as follows:

Measure the width and height of the window opening with a tape measure, cut pieces of the required size from the perforated corners.
Using a drill with a mixer attachment, prepare a putty solution. Its amount should be such that you will be able to use it until it loses its viability. This parameter is always indicated by the manufacturer on the packaging.
Check the verticality and horizontalness of the corresponding corners formed by the slopes with the wall with a building level. Put putty on them, making the layer thicker where the level requires.
Glue the perforated corner onto the fresh putty by pressing it into the mortar. Correct the position of the corner vertically and horizontally with the help of a level, pressing it deeper into the solution where necessary.

Remove excess mixture squeezed out through the perforation holes with a spatula

Let the mortar set and harden so as not to move the corners during the putty process.
Using a wide spatula, apply a layer of starting filler to the slope, pressing it to the surface at an angle of about 30 degrees and leading from the bottom up. Then remove the excess crosswise from the window to the wall. Draw an even corner with the wall at the same time.

Photo of the main process

One layer of putty should be no more than 5-6 mm. If more layers are required to level and eliminate surface defects, they are applied as many as required, but each must be thoroughly dried before the next.

Advice. To prevent a thick layer of putty from peeling off over time, it can be reinforced with plastic or fiberglass mesh.

After finishing the leveling, wait until the putty has dried and with a sanding cloth fixed to the grater, rub the surface, removing traces from the trowel and sagging.
Finish the work by smoothing the plane with a thin, no more than 1 mm, layer of finishing putty. After it dries and grouting with a thin sandpaper, the slopes can be painted.

The final stage of finishing

Finishers recommend the owners of plastic windows to add another intermediate stage to this complex of works. After leveling the slope, it is necessary to draw a thin groove in the corner between it and the window frame with a spatula along the still fresh putty, and when the solution dries, fill it with a sealant.

It has good elasticity and will act as a shock absorber when the plastic expands on hot days. If this is not done, then cracks may appear on the slopes.

Putty of window and door slopes will not cause difficulties for those who are familiar with such work - they level the walls or ceilings on their own. If this is the first time you decide to pick up a spatula, then be sure to study the tutorial in this article. In it you will find answers to those questions that we may have missed.

The installation of plastic windows, carried out by professional builders in compliance with all the rules, gives comfort and coziness to the house.

How to properly putty slopes on windows

Expanding types of putties are also available for plastics, fixing and repairing certain structural elements. Universal types of putties are produced, which are inherent in almost all the functions of the listed types. Plastic putty is usually required in small quantities for minor repairs.

Therefore, it is convenient to buy an even expensive universal paste, given that one composition can solve a number of other problems.

Restorative compound for plastic window putty is used for minor damage, cracks and improperly drilled holes.

These formulations include "COSMOFEN RM", which consists of two components: powder and liquid resin.

This composition can be used to putty on plastic on vertical surfaces due to its high viscosity and adhesion. Also, this material adheres well and is resistant to ultraviolet radiation.

Styrofoam putty protects the boards from external exposure to sunlight, mechanical damage.

For stronger protection, you can additionally use decorative plaster with marble chips, based on acrylic. The device of such a plaster does not require the use of a reinforcing mesh.

A wide choice of colors combined with durability will give the surface the required qualities: beauty and functionality.

Putty of slopes is a laborious process, but if you know the sequence of stages and have it at hand necessary tool, then such work is easy to do at home without special skills. The main thing is to purchase the necessary materials and tools, prepare the surface, create the necessary conditions in the room and not rush. This article provides detailed instructions for the workflow, as well as a video reviewing the nuances of the work.

Plastering of slopes depends not only on the efforts of the employee, but also on the quality of installation of doors, windows, openings and walls. If there is destruction, then they need to be dismantled. To make the walls smoother, it is worth using drywall blocks, only then deal with the slopes. The main condition for the success of the renovation work is the sequence of actions. First you need to prepare the necessary material, carry out the installation, apply the base layer and then proceed with the finishing putty.

IMPORTANT! Particular attention should be paid to installing the perforated metal corner or replacing it with a plasterboard template.

Plastering for window and door slopes Plastering of slopes requires preparation. First, consider the problematic points that may arise. It is necessary to carry out the installation of the structure and take into account the area where the electrical wire passes, if any. The room should have a comfortable temperature for repair work, otherwise cracks may appear later or the plaster will completely go away. Let's consider a step-by-step algorithm of actions.

Window putty starts with preparatory work... The room should be cleaned as much as possible, dust and debris can get into the mixture or paint. First you need to select all the necessary materials and start with the main one. Slope putty should be selected based on the following indicators:

The composition of the product must be water and frost-resistant. It is better to choose a product for facades. In rooms with high humidity, it is worth giving preference to cement compositions.
Purchase a primer that will provide the best adhesion. It is best if this product contains antibacterial additives.
Standard set of tools: spatulas, level and roller.

The putty is divided into three types: starting, finishing and specialized. The first is to level the surface. The second removes imperfections before the decorative coating is applied. A third may be required in order to cover up the joints. The fourth can replace all the previous ones. Builders and repairmen call it a budget option.

On a note! Prepare the surface thoroughly before starting work. All debris and dust must be removed.

Tools and materials

Slope putty will require the presence of mandatory tools and materials at hand. For a quality installation, you will need the following list of tools:

Small spatula for application.
Medium smoothing trowel.
Building level of impressive size.
Mortar bucket.
The spatula should be wide and narrow.
To mix the mortar, you need a construction mixer and a bucket.
To make the slopes even, get a level and a plumb line.
If drywall is involved in the repair, then you will need a screwdriver and small screws.
Putty for windows will need a starting and finishing. They come in the form of a paste or powder. The second will have to be bred first.
Tile adhesive and ceramic tile, wallpaper or paint.

IMPORTANT! To make the edges clear, you can use a perforated corner. And last but not least on the list is the primer.

The stages of the work include leveling the walls. To do this, cover the entire area around with a newspaper and start leveling. In order not to hurt the jambs, you can stick masking tape on them. A preliminary priming of the surface is required before puttying. After the walls are ready, it is necessary to dilute the mixture, if powder is purchased, and proceed to the main work.

Preparation of the putty mixture

Putty of window slopes most often begins with the manufacture of mortar. This process needs to be given special attention, because the result will depend on the quality of the mixture. The starting and finishing line-ups have a similar kneading method. Let's consider a step-by-step algorithm:

The amount of water should be equal to the required volume of filler. It is better to mix more, with a margin. On average, that's one third of a bucket.
The mixture should be thick. This will avoid dripping.
The solution must be worked out immediately within half an hour, so it is worth mixing in small amounts.
Pour powder into water and mix with a mixer.
The mixture should be infused for a few minutes.

On a note! Stir the compound again before starting repairs.

Leveling the slopes Do-it-yourself putty of the slopes of the windows is done after the primer has been laid. Remember that the soil must dry well. Therefore, first you need to apply a primer, and then knead the solution. Beacons are always installed at the windows and the alignment must start with them, and then proceed to perforated corners... The profile material is laid on the plaster in several layers. No more than 5 mm.

You can use a wooden template or a piece of drywall. It is cut strictly along the window opening and screwed on with self-tapping screws. Its thickness should be equal to the thickness of the wall. Then you need to remove the corner with a level and apply putty. Drywall is removed only after the mixture is completely dry.

Finishing putty

After starting processing of window slopes, we proceed to the final stage. It will only be required if it will not be finished with wallpaper or tiles. The finishing putty is made only in order to prepare the surface for painting. It is not critical to apply it even on a fresh starting layer. Both spatulas are required to work. One will pull the mixture along the slope, while the other will apply it.

The blade of a large spatula should be longer than the slope, in this case, the first time it will turn out without scars. After the finish is applied, you need to give time to dry completely. Only after that you need to process the surface with sandpaper. Work the spatulas against the frame. It can be pre-pasted over with masking tape.

Grinding and painting

The windows will look perfect, but still not without minor flaws. They are easy to hide with sanding and painting. The most important thing: the slope should have been completely dry. For grinding you will need sandpaper, and for painting a brush or roller. The paint should not be very thick. In this case, it will lie flat, too liquid will leave smudges. If the paint is chosen in a delicate color, then additional layers may not be required.

On a note! Give preference to water-dispersed or water-based paints... If you want the shade to be more saturated, paint in 2-3 layers.

Installing a perforated corner

This process is considered the most important and time consuming. It is necessary to choose a metal profile, it will be better than others to form and reinforce the slope. It will not only provide direction, but it will also facilitate basic wall plastering. Consider a step-by-step algorithm of actions:

First you need to decide on the size of the product. This can be done using a tape measure. Measure from corner to corner.
Make the marks on the profile according to the measurements. To do this, use a construction marker.
After the corner is cut with metal scissors, you need to compare its original size. It is better to put it to the slope several times.
A small amount of mortar is required to carry out a correct and reliable installation. It can be pre-mixed before the base coat is prepared.
To install a corner, it is tedious to decide on the thickness of the fixing layer. To do this, it is tedious to find the most protruding section. It is along this ledge that the alignment will be carried out.

The amount of solution spent will depend on the thickness of the protrusion. Place the corner and use a spatula to fill the opening in several places at once. The voids should be filled as tightly as possible. At the same time, slightly press the corners into the mixture and follow the surface equally with the help of a level. The adjustment should be strictly vertical.

On a note! Only when the solution hardens a little, remove the remnants of the mixture from the boundaries of the profile. Don't worry if there are slight irregularities, they will disappear during the sanding process.