In a city apartment, plumbing and sewerage are the norm. At the dacha, you also want comfortable living conditions. However, not everywhere there are centralized treatment systems outside the city. You have to equip the septic tank yourself. There are many options for this, but a do-it-yourself sewerage system in a country house from a barrel is the simplest and cheapest of them.

For a private house, a septic tank is better to buy a factory-assembled, large capacity and with the use of bioenzymes. And for use in the country, a small barrel sewer with mechanical cleaning and soil aftertreatment is quite enough.

How to choose the right place for a septic tank in the country

For country house characterized by a small amount of wastewater. They do not live in it permanently, but only on short visits, on weekends. However, sanitary and building codes one for all.

Sewerage from barrels - the best option for suburban area

The septic tank of an autonomous sewer in the country should be removed from:

• reservoirs, a drinking well or a well of 30 meters;
• garden beds for 10 meters;
• the foundation of the house by 5 meters;
• underground pipelines with gas for 5 meters;
• green spaces (shrubs and trees) by 3 meters.

Attention! Observance of minimum distances to sources of drinking water is the key to preventing their pollution and the spread of infections.

If the septic tank is placed too close to the country house, then the water will certainly begin to destroy its foundation. And the corresponding sanitary standards not just spelled out. Failure to comply with them can entail not only health problems, but also liability under the law.

Also, when choosing the location of the septic tank, you must consider:

1. The properties and composition of the soil - sand easily passes moisture, and on clay soil it will be necessary to equip a sand cushion.
2. The relief of the site - sewer pipe should be laid at a slope from the house to the barrels, the water should move by gravity.
3. The depth of groundwater.
4. Climatic conditions - the maximum possible negative air temperatures in winter and the level of freezing of the earth.
5. The inevitability of the arrival of a sewage truck - containers must be available for cleaning and pumping out sewage.

Scheme of the simplest sewage system from a pair of containers

The simplest sewerage in the country is outdoor pipeline and a couple of iron barrels as a septic tank. Pipes for self-laying can be taken plastic with a diameter of 110 mm. A smaller diameter will not cope with the peak volume of effluents, and you will have to overpay for a larger one.

Remember! Barrel septic tank as a base sewer system in the country it is recommended to install only with groundwater not higher than 3-4 meters.

The slope of the sewer pipeline for reliable gravity flow must be at least 0.03 (vertically 3 cm / running meter of pipe). When laying pipes above the freezing level, it will be necessary to perform insulation using moisture-resistant heat-insulating materials.

Barrel sewer device

Which containers are better to use: iron or plastic

When arranging sewerage in the country with their own hands, barrels made of plastic or metal are used. The first option is easier to install and more resistant to corrosion, but when the soil swells, the plastic container will be easily crushed.

Iron barrels of 200 liters are more popular with Russian summer residents. This metal container for coatings, after firing, becomes an ideal container for creating a sewer sump. It is durable, cheap and lightweight, which allows you to do all the work yourself.

Iron two-hundred-liter barrels are popular with domestic summer residents because of their availability.

The only drawback of any iron is its susceptibility to corrosion. However, you can always treat an iron barrel for sewage with bituminous mastic or other anti-corrosion compound.

Advice! In order for the metal container for the sump to last longer, it must be coated with anti-corrosion protection (bitumen, paintwork materials).

Another nuance of choosing between an iron and a plastic barrel is their weight and the need to fill the foundation under them. Plastic is light, it will have to be fixed on a pre-prepared concrete pad, otherwise a plastic sump during floods may simply float up. With heavier iron, there are no such problems.

According to SNiP, the volume of the septic tank must contain three daily measures of runoff from the house. This is at a water consumption of up to 5 cubic meters / day - just for the country sewerage. But at the same time, one must understand that these data are indicated for regularly cleaned sedimentation tanks. At least twice a year, they must be cleaned without fail, removing accumulated sludge and debris.

The principle of operation of a country septic tank from two barrels

A standard two-chamber septic tank for a summer residence consists of a pair of metal barrels:

1. Sealed sump for primary coarse cleaning.
2. Tanks for soil cleaning.

A variant with one hermetic tank is possible. But then it must be much larger and will constantly have to be cleaned. And for this it will be necessary to call vacuum trucks with special equipment, paying for their work. This type of sewage is more suitable for a small cottage, and for summer cottages it is better to use an alternative from a pair of iron barrels.

In this case, the effluents first enter the first tank, where they are clarified and coarse sediment (sand, vegetable peels and other debris) settles. As soon as this tank is filled to capacity, partially purified water begins to flow into the second barrel, which has no bottom. As a result, moisture, passing through the sand filter and being additionally cleaned, goes into the soil.

Conditional Schema two-chamber septic tank

The first barrel should be slightly higher than the second. So the water will drain naturally without any pumps. Also in the first container, it is imperative to make a lid and a vent. Sooner or later, solid sediment will have to be cleaned out of it. And ventilation is necessary for the flow of anaerobic processes.

Sewerage technology in the country

First, earthworks. It is necessary to dig a trench for a sewer pipe from the house and a pit for iron barrels. From above, the containers will be sprinkled with soil 20–30 cm thick. The hole will have to be dug deep enough. There should be a gap of 25 cm on the sides.

If you plan to use the sewerage system in the country house made with your own hands from barrels in winter, it should be insulated. But in this case, at least a third of the tank must be below the freezing zone, otherwise the water in the tank will freeze. And this is an additional deepening of the pit. You may even need to call an excavator to dig.

1. In the first: on top - the inlet for the pipe from the house, and on the side - the outlet for overflow into the next tank.
2. In the second: on the side - incoming overflow, and from below - into the whole bottom for drainage into the ground.

The inlet should be located 10–20 cm higher than the outlet, otherwise the water may go back when overflowing.

Advice! In order not to engage in welding on metal, it is enough to cut even holes and insert rubber seals of the appropriate size into them. And already enter into them plastic pipes and coat everything with sealant.

All pipes inserted into the barrel must be carefully sealed.

A pillow of sand and gravel 10 to 30 cm thick is poured at the bottom of the pit and carefully compacted. Then the barrels are installed and connected by a jumper. If necessary, they are covered with insulation (foam or expanded clay).

Before connecting the sewer pipe, the containers must be covered with soil on the sides. The earth should be thrown in layers of 20 cm and compacted each of them.

It remains to connect the sewer pipe from the country house. It is inserted into the first tank using a tee, the free end of which is designed to organize the ventilation of the septic tank. In the end, everything is sprinkled on top with soil.

Septic tank maintenance and cleaning

Gradually, the first settling tank will be filled with solid waste and sludge from their decomposition. To clean it, you will have to call a sewer truck.

On average, the volume of sludge increases by 60–80 liters over the summer. But with a constant visit to the dacha, the septic tank can overflow long before the end of the season.

It is necessary to invite vacuum cleaners regularly

To prevent this, special biological additives are used that significantly accelerate the decomposition processes and reduce the amount of waste. However, at least once a year, barrels should be cleaned by professional vacuum cleaners.

Video: general principles of sewerage in the country

You can equip a sewer from metal barrels with your own hands in the country. There is nothing complicated here, all the necessary materials can be found on the construction market. Such a septic tank will cost inexpensively. However, it is not always worth saving too much on safety and health. Pollution by untreated runoff of soil and water bodies is punishable by law. Consultations and advice from professionals on the issue of sewer system installation will never hurt.

Today, you can easily purchase a ready-made septic tank of industrial production or build capital treatment plants on your own. But if you need to organize a temporary sewerage or wastewater volume in country house small, simpler and more affordable solutions can be used. For example, build do-it-yourself septic tank from plastic barrels . Such a treatment plant will help to make life more comfortable and at the same time it is good to cope with the tasks of wastewater treatment assigned to it.

Building a house is a long process. In order not to give up the usual amenities during construction, you can build a temporary local sewage system - a home-made septic tank. You can collect it from two plastic barrels with a volume of 200 liters.

To build such an installation, you can use old, but leak-free plastic barrels. The use of metal barrels is impractical, since the metal quickly collapses under the influence of sewage. An installation assembled from metal barrels will not last long.

A septic tank made from barrels is a simple installation, but it is still more convenient. cesspool or storage. Such a septic tank cleans, and does not heat up the water, so the need for pumping occurs less frequently.

When can you build a septic tank from barrels?

Today, there are many different models of septic tanks offered by manufacturers. But all of them are quite expensive to build, so in some cases it is advisable not to spend money, but to assemble a septic tank using plastic barrels. The advantages of this option include:

• Cheapness. For the construction of chambers, used plastic containers with a capacity of 200-250 liters can be used;
• The simplicity of the device. Work on the construction of such a septic tank is not difficult.

The main disadvantage of a septic tank device assembled from barrels is the limited volume of chambers.. The small volume that a septic tank has from barrels is the reason that there will be a need for frequent pumping of sediment.

Advice! It is clear that with a volume of chambers equal to the volume of a barrel (200 or 250 liters), the number of drains should be minimal.

A septic tank assembled from barrels is perfect in the following cases:

• Dachas that are used only as a place for occasional rest. That is, cottages where permanent residence is not planned;
• Traditional baths (without a pool, jacuzzi and toilet), in this case, the septic tank will not require frequent pumping;
• For building sheds as temporary installations.

Planning stage

Even the construction of such a simple installation as a septic tank assembled from two barrels must begin with planning. You should choose the location of the septic tank, as well as draw up a diagram of the future treatment plant.

Selecting an installation site

Just like any other local sewage installation, the septic tank should be located at a distance from the well or well from which drinking water is extracted. In addition, the septic tank must be removed at least 5 meters from the foundation of a residential building and 1 meter from other structures on the site (baths, garages, etc.).

The possibility of pumping out the sediment should also be considered. If a vacuum truck is used for pumping, it is necessary to provide access to the septic tank.

Selecting an installation scheme

If the cottage will be used by 2-3 vacationers, then you can choose the following septic tank scheme:

• Two or three barrels connected in series, the last of which has no bottom and functions as a filter well;
• Each subsequent barrel is located 10 cm below the previous one;
• The barrels are connected by overflow pipes. The pipe entering the septic tank is located 10 cm above the pipe leaving;

• Under the first two barrels, which are used as sedimentation tanks, a sand cushion of sand 10 cm high is made;
• Under the last barrel, which does not have a bottom, a 30 cm cushion of crushed stone and 50 cm of sand are first made. This layer is used for the final purification of water that is absorbed into the soil;
• If soil water is high on the site and the installation of a filter well is not possible, it is necessary to build filtration fields.

Materials for the construction of a septic tank

• Two barrels made of plastic, with a volume of 250 liters. If a filtration well is planned, then another barrel without a bottom will be required. The use of metal barrels is possible if a temporary sewer is being built, which will be used for several months.
• Crushed stone of fine fraction - the size of individual elements is 1.8-3.5 cm;
• Geotextile;
• Sewer pipes having a diameter of 110 mm;
• Drainage pipes for the construction of filtration fields;
• Corners for connecting pipes.

Installation of a septic tank

Consider how the installation of a septic tank assembled from barrels should take place.

Barrel preparation

• It is necessary to prepare a hole for connecting incoming and outgoing pipes. In the first barrel, you need to make a hole for the incoming pipe at a distance of 20 cm from the top cover of the barrel. The inlet is made on the opposite side of the barrel, shifting it 10 cm down relative to the first one;

• In addition, in the first barrel you need to make a hole for the ventilation riser. It is better to make the lid of the first barrel removable, since it is in this chamber that solid waste will accumulate the most, so it will need to be cleaned regularly;
• In the second settling barrel, the inlet pipe hole is made at a distance of 20 cm from the top cover. The outlet pipe is located on the opposite side of the barrel, 10 cm above the opening of the inlet pipe. If drainage pipes leading to the filtration fields are connected to the barrel, then it is better to make two holes in it located at an angle of 45 degrees to each other.

Pit preparation

• The pit must be larger than the barrels. The gap between the walls of the barrels and the sides of the pit should be about 25 cm around the entire perimeter;
• The bottom of the pit must be well compacted, after which a sand cushion should be made, 10 cm high;

• If possible, fill the bottom of the pit with concrete mortar. Embedded metal parts with loops for fixing barrels should be installed in concrete;

Advice! If a septic tank is being built from barrels as a permanently operating installation, then it is recommended to fix the barrels on a concrete slab using bandage belts. If this is not done, then in the spring during the flood, the barrels can float up and destroy the entire sewerage system.

• When preparing the pit, it must be remembered that each subsequent chamber was located below the previous one. That is, the outlet pipe of the previous chamber must be at the level of the inlet of the next one.

Installation of a septic tank

• Barrels are installed in prepared places, pipes are connected to them;
• Backfilling of containers is carried out using a mixture of sand and dry cement powder. Such a backfill will protect the septic tank from damage during seasonal soil movements;
• Backfilling must be done very carefully so as not to damage the joints of the pipes with the chambers;

• Having poured about 30 cm of the mixture, you need to compact it well around the perimeter of the barrel. Then you can start backfilling the next layer;
• Simultaneously with the filling, you need to fill the barrels with water. Filling the containers with water will prevent deformation of the plastic walls during backfilling.

Construction of soil treatment plants

In order for the water settled in the settling chambers to be finally cleared of impurities and contaminants, it is necessary to build filtration fields or a filtration well.

Construction of a filtration well

• For the installation of a filtration well, you can use a barrel without a bottom. Additionally, it is recommended to make holes in the bottom of the barrel;
• Before installing the prepared container, sand is poured into the pit, the layer height is 50 cm. Then you need to pour crushed stone, the height of the layer is 30 cm. The diameter of the backfill layer should be larger diameter barrels 50 cm in all directions from the side of the barrel;
• After installing the container in place, it should be filled with crushed stone to a third of its height.

Building filter fields

• Digging trenches for laying drainage pipes. The trenches must be prepared so that the pipe lays with a slope. Slope size - 2 cm per meter of length;
• When building a septic tank from barrels, as a rule, the aeration field is arranged from two drainage pipes drained from the second settling chamber;
• Ditches prepared for laying pipes are covered with geotextile fabric so that the side sections of the material cover the sides;
• A thirty-centimeter layer of crushed stone is poured over the geotestile, on which drainage pipes are laid;

Advice! You can purchase already perforated pipes or make holes in ordinary pipes designed for assembling outdoor sewage systems. In the latter case, the holes for the water outlet will need to be drilled independently.

• From above, the pipes are covered with rubble, and then all this is wrapped in geotextiles. The fabric is wrapped so that an overlap of 10 cm wide is formed;
• The last stage of work is backfilling the trenches of the soil.

So, a septic tank made of plastic barrels is an inexpensive and practical solution for a bathhouse, a building change house or a summer house. This installation cleans drains and does not require frequent pumping.

Do-it-yourself septic tank from barrels for a country house

One of the simplest treatment facilities that you can build with your own hands is a septic tank from barrels (plastic). This type of septic tank is affordable.

Plastic barrels: building a budget septic tank

In the conditions of country life, the arrangement of an autonomous sewage system is as urgent as providing a clean home. drinking water from a well or well.

One of the most important nodes for local sewerage is an storage capacity or a septic tank designed to collect human waste and sewage. There are several types of septic tanks. It can be a well made of concrete rings with additional sealing, old barrels dug into the ground, or modern system biological treatment. Each owner selects the type of septic tank that meets his needs.

An important factor is the cost of such a structure and the entire sewerage system as a whole.

Description and principle of operation

Unfortunately, not everyone can afford to purchase an expensive treatment plant. And in in some cases, it is not needed at all. For example, if it is planned to collect seasonal wastewater in the country, entering the sewer from a bathhouse or any temporary building. The owners quite reasonably believe that in these cases it makes no sense to spend big money on construction works or purchase of a biological treatment plant. You can get by with an old container - a tank or a barrel.

With the spread and growing popularity of plastic products, the choice has been greatly simplified.

On the farm or, in extreme cases, on the market, there is always a plastic barrel of suitable volume, which can be used as a country septic tank. You can dig into the ground as one barrel, or several, connecting them to each other according to the principle of communicating vessels. In a design of several barrels, sewage water will be cleaned better. Yes, and the capacity of the septic tank will increase significantly.

From the three-chamber design, filtered and settled water can be taken out through drains to the lawn or garden, thereby providing soil moisture near the root system of plants. Of course, the water in such septic tanks will not be completely purified. Therefore, three-chamber structures are used only when working with relatively clean sewer water, draining by gravity from baths, showers and temporary buildings.

If fecal masses, water from kitchen sinks or dishwashers and washing machines are discharged into the sewer, it will not be possible to purify water from several barrels in a filtering septic tank. In these cases, it is advisable to use a sealed container of a large volume.

The principle of operation of a septic tank from barrels is quite simple. Tanks are dug into the ground below the level of sewer pipes. Waste enters the septic tank by gravity. Depending on the degree of contamination of the wastewater, a sealed barrel or a system of barrels is used, followed by filtering the purified water into the ground.

Advantages and disadvantages

Like any engineering structure, a septic tank made of plastic barrels has its pros and cons.

The advantages include:

• the relative cheapness of the design;
• ease of installation and operation;
• resistance to aggressive media and low temperatures.

• relatively small capacity of the septic tank (especially if the first old small container that comes to hand is used);
• the probability of squeezing out the container during the freezing of the soil.

Design features

The selected barrel or several containers are buried in the ground below the level of the sewer pipes. This is done to ensure self-flow. Pipes are laid with a slight slope towards the storage or filter tank.

To serve a family of three in the summer, you will need a container with a capacity of not less than 200-250 liters. If several drums are used, they are installed in one line and connected in series to each other by means of overflow pipes. Moreover, each of the tanks is buried 15-20 centimeters below the previous one (the so-called stepped arrangement), which provides a slope between the incoming and outgoing pipe.

Usually the first two containers are used for settling, and the third for filtering clarified water into the soil. Accordingly, the first containers are always sealed, and the last one has a perforated bottom and is filled with half-broken bricks or other filter material. A special cushion of crushed stone and sand is arranged under the filter tank. 50 cm of sand and 30 cm of crushed stone are poured into the pit.

This bottom filling provides additional filtration sewer water. And in areas with a high level of groundwater, it is recommended to build a drainage field instead of a filtering well, the output of water to which is carried out using a system of drains.

With inactive use of sewage, as mentioned above, it is enough to install one sealed barrel, from which water will be regularly pumped out by a drainage or fecal pump.

DIY installation

This is done in case of depressurization of the sewer drain. Spilled dirty water poses a risk to human health and can pollute the environment.

A septic tank must be separated from any source of drinking water by a distance of 50 meters. From rivers and streams - 10, and from public reservoirs 30 meters. There are also requirements for placement regarding roads and even fruit trees. The septic tank is installed 5 meters from the road and buildings, and 3 meters from garden plants.

• digging a pit and trenches for pipes;
• backfilling a sand cushion and sloping trenches;
• pouring a concrete base in the pit;
• installation of barrels;
• pipe connection (sewer products with a diameter of 10-11 cm are used, which are connected by pipes using a sealant);
• backfilling (a sand-cement mixture is used for the pit around the barrel).

Important points and errors

Common installation errors include:

• Non-compliance with the slope of the pipes. As a result, sewer water cannot move by gravity.
• Several sharp turns. The more bends in the pipeline, the higher the likelihood of clogging the sewer.
• Non-compliance with the stepped deepening of two- and three-chamber septic tanks. This engineering error results in poor water outflow between the chambers of the structure.

We use a 250-liter barrel as a septic tank to collect water from a bathhouse in the country. We bought a new one, because at home there was no suitable plastic container in size.

When connecting barrels to each other, observe the slope! We made a mistake at first, and the water in the first barrel began to stagnate. There was an unpleasant smell. It is necessary that the inlet for connection is 20 centimeters from the edge of the barrel, and the outlet is thirty - 10 centimeters lower.

Very convenient and cheap septic tank. Used a few old barrels. In the latter arranged a filter. No problems with operation - the liquid itself goes into the soil.

Selection and installation scheme

• Barrels can be of any size. However, when choosing, it is important to consider the number of family members.
• 250 liter containers are enough for a family of two or three people.
• The product should not have too thin walls.
• Installation is carried out in compliance with all sanitary standards (the distance to residential buildings, sources of drinking water, roads is maintained).
• It is undesirable to use containers with a capacity of less than 200 liters.

Installation work includes:

1. Preliminary preparation of barrels - sawing holes for pipes. In the lid of the first tank, a ventilation window is cut through for the riser through which air will flow.
2. Preparation of the pit - backfilling of a sand cushion, pouring a concrete base with metal brackets for attaching containers.
3. Installation of barrels and connection of pipes. Silicone must not be used as a sealant!
4. Backfilling of the excavation and tamping of the cement-sand mixture.

Exploitation

To ensure the smooth operation of the sewer, it is necessary:

• avoid clogging pipes;
• regularly clean the first chamber (tank) of the septic tank from accumulated solid waste;
• carefully insulate the cover of the first chamber, equipped with a ventilation hole.

Subject to these simple rules the septic tank will serve the owners for several decades, because plastic barrels have increased strength and reliability in operation.

A septic tank made of plastic barrels is an economical solution

Septic tank of plastic barrels: its principle of operation, what are the advantages of constructions from plastic barrels. How to choose a barrel, typical installation errors

Do-it-yourself septic tank from barrels

Do-it-yourself septic tank from barrels

A country house, a small bathhouse, a summer camp site or temporary living quarters, equipped for the period of construction of a capital structure, will not be comfortable enough to live without a sewerage system. But buying an expensive local treatment plant is not always advisable.

Plastic barrels for building a septic tank

As an alternative solution, you can consider a simple septic tank made of light polymer barrels, which are very easy to bring to the site and install with your own hands in a short time. There are also barrels made of metal, but due to the susceptibility of this material to corrosion, it is not recommended to use them. Wooden containers are even less durable. Their service life is no more than two seasons.

Principle of operation

Since a septic tank is a system in which domestic sewage and waste are not just accumulated, but are cleaned. For construction, you will need two or three barrels, which will become chambers for loading and secondary cleaning. To make the system as efficient as possible, it is worth thinking about arranging a drainage or storage well, into which purified water from the septic tank will flow.

Approximate scheme of a septic tank from barrels

Consider the principle of operation of a two-chamber septic tank from barrels equipped with a storage well.

1. Used water (from a shower, toilet bowl, etc.) enters the plumbing drain, from where it flows by gravity through the pipes of the internal and external sewerage into the first loading barrel-chamber.
2. The first chamber is called the "sump", since here, with the participation of constantly acting forces of gravity, the effluents are settled. Light fractions and fats float to the top, heavy particles precipitate. In the center of the container, a layer of initially purified technical liquid is formed, which is transported through the overflow pipe to the second chamber-barrel.
3. The second post-treatment chamber is designed for better treatment of wastewater. Here, in an airless environment, colonies of microorganisms “work” (they form 2-5 weeks after the system is put into operation). For greater efficiency, bioseptic preparations can be loaded into the post-treatment chamber, allowing you to quickly decompose all sewage into water, sediment that falls to the bottom, as well as gases escaping through the ventilation pipe.
4. The degree of purification in the first two chambers can reach 80-90%. To increase the quality of cleaning, you can install another septic tank chamber, which will work on the principle of an after-treatment chamber. If the result suits you, then this measure is not relevant, and the technically purified water will move to the storage well.
5. The accumulative well has a sealed bottom, which excludes the penetration of water into the soil. Disposal of liquid from the well is carried out by a sewer or drainage pump, provided that filters are installed.

Instead of a storage well, you can equip a filtering (drainage) one. In this case, all the liquid enters the well tank, where, passing through the crushed stone filter, it is absorbed into the soil. The method is not applicable at a high level of groundwater and clay soil type with low filtration capacity.

Where to begin?

Any sewer construction requires a minimum project. As the norms prescribe, cleaning chambers should not only be located at a distance from green spaces (at least 3 meters), the foundation of the house (5-10 m), reservoirs and wells (30-50 m), but at the same time be located in an accessible cesspool place. Of course, if you intend to carry out preventive cleaning of the septic tank with a drainage pump or bucket, the last rule is no longer relevant.

Note! The septic tank should not be too far from the building, so that there is no need to lay an excessively long pipeline. It is also not recommended to plan the laying of pipes with turns, as this can cause clogging of the pipe and the additional need to install a rotary (inspection) well. The best option is a septic tank located at a distance of 7-10 meters from the house and connected to the internal sewerage system by a direct pipeline Ø110 mm. For a pipe section of 10 meters bias (the difference between the opposite ends of the pipe) will be 20 cm.

It is important to have information about the type of soil and the level of groundwater. The nuances of installation and the method of disposal of the purified liquid will depend on this.

Septic tanks differ from conventional sewers in the volume of processed wastewater. If, when connected to central system no matter the amount of water consumption, then a small installation of barrels implies an economical use of water (maximum washbasin, shower and toilet). However, about connecting washing machine there is no more speech. A septic tank of three chambers with a volume of about 250 liters is quite suitable for temporary arrangement of the life of 2-3 people. For more users, it is recommended to choose larger barrels.

It is also theoretically necessary to register the fact of installing a septic tank in the SES, but this design of barrels is unlikely to be approved, so obtaining official permission is at the discretion of the owners.

Preparation of materials, tools

After creating a project for a future mini-sewerage and related calculations (remoteness from home, length of pipes, dimensions of the pit for barrels, slope), you should start acquiring all the necessary elements of a septic tank, consumables and tools.

1. Polymer barrels (2 or 3), plus a plastic corrugated pipe or an additional barrel for the well.
2. Covers sewer for capacities of a septic tank.

Sewer covers for septic tanks

Sewer pipes 110 mm

For installation, you will also need: sand, fine gravel (no more than 4 cm), glue for assembling PVC structures, sealant (epoxy base), rubber seals for connecting pipes to septic tanks, pegs and cord, building level and tape measure, shovel, impeller (Bulgarian).

If the groundwater level is high, you will need to pour a concrete base, for which you need to prepare: cement, a mixing tank, an electric mixer, fittings (loop-shaped fasteners), cables for fastening barrels.

Container for mixing cement mortar

With heavily crumbling soil, formwork will be needed, it will be organized from unnecessary boards or metal mesh with small cells.

Additional heat-insulating materials: insulation for a sewer pipe, polystyrene foam or polystyrene foam for a septic tank.

Do-it-yourself septic tank from barrels, how to do it?

Find out how easy it is to arrange life in the country and save on it. Do-it-yourself septic tank from barrels: step-by-step instruction, choice of materials, advice on installation.

An example of a homemade septic tank made of plastic barrels

It is not advisable to purchase an expensive factory-made septic tank for an autonomous sewage system in a summer cottage, which is used only in the summer. There is a simple way to solve this problem, which does not require large financial costs. You can build a septic tank with your own hands from barrels by combining several plastic containers of various sizes into one system. Previously, such structures were made of metal barrels. However, with the advent of lightweight plastic products on the market, metal structures are used less and less. Operation of such sewer facility possible only with a small amount of liquid waste. In practice, a home-made septic tank from barrels is installed in order to collect wastewater from baths and temporary buildings.

Requirements for the installation site of a septic tank

When choosing the place of installation of plastic containers for collecting sewer waste, they are guided by sanitary standards and rules in force in Russia. It is necessary to maintain the necessary distances from the septic tank to wells and wells used for drinking water intake, as well as to the foundations of nearby buildings. It is recommended to retreat at least 5 meters from the house, and you can retreat at least one meter from the garage and the bath.

Requirements for choosing the location of a home-made septic tank in relation to other life support facilities for people living or vacationing outside the city

Approximate scheme for installing plastic containers

If no more than three people live in a country house in the summer, then two or three plastic barrels will be required to build a septic tank. The volume of these containers must be at least 250 liters. Barrels connected in series with each other by means of overflow pipes are installed in one line. Holes are cut in the plastic walls of the tanks for the installation of overflow pipes. At the same time, it is taken into account that the pipe leaving the chamber should be located 10 centimeters lower than the incoming one. The placement depth of each subsequent container should be 10-15 cm more than the previous chamber (staggered arrangement).

Two hermetic barrels are designed for settling drains, and the third with a carved bottom adapts to drainage well for natural filtration of clarified waters. The first two chambers are installed on 10 cm sand cushions, well compacted and leveled. The third chamber (drainage well) is placed on a layer of rubble, 30 cm thick, which is poured on a 50 cm layer of sand. This sand and gravel filter allows for the post-treatment of wastewater leaving the ground. In areas with a high level of groundwater, instead of a drainage well, filtration fields are installed.

The simplest scheme of a home-made septic tank, which can be built from plastic barrels, concrete rings, galvanized containers, etc.

List of required materials for installation

If a septic tank is being built from plastic barrels with an aeration field, then the following will be required Construction Materials and equipment:

• fine-grained crushed stone (fraction size 1.8-3.5 cm);
• geotextile fabric;
• a pair of plastic barrels with a volume of 250 l;
• orange sewer pipes with a diameter of 110 mm;
• tees and angles for connecting pipes at different angles;
• perforated pipes for drainage;
• couplings, flanges;
• glue for PVC pipes;
• two-component epoxy sealant;
• water tape.

From the tool you will need a level, a shovel, a rake, a jigsaw. In addition to the listed devices and tools manual labor wooden pegs will also come in handy when marking out a site for a septic tank and a filtration field.

Features of the installation work

First, using a jigsaw, holes are cut in the barrels for installing overflow pipes and a ventilation riser. The hole for connecting the incoming pipe to the chamber is made at a distance of 20 cm from the upper edge of the container. The outlet is made on the opposite side of the chamber 10 cm below the inlet, that is, at a distance of 30 cm from the top edge of the barrel.

Fitting an overflow pipe into the hole cut in the first plastic sump drum and filling the gap with a two-component epoxy sealant

The ventilation riser for the removal of gases is mounted only in the first settling barrel. It is also desirable to provide for this chamber to have a removable cover, which allows periodically cleaning the bottom of settled solid particles. In the second settling tank, two holes are made at the bottom, located relative to each other at an angle of 45 degrees, for connecting drainage pipes laid along the filtration field.

Important! The gaps in the holes, which are formed due to loose contact between the pipes and the walls of the barrel, are filled with a two-component epoxy sealant.

Stage # 1 - sizing and excavation

When calculating the dimensions of the pit, it is assumed that between the barrels and its walls there should be a gap of 25 cm around the entire perimeter. This gap will later be filled with a dry sand-cement mixture, which serves to protect the walls of the septic tank from damage during seasonal soil movement.

If you have finances, the bottom under the settling chambers can be filled with concrete mortar, providing in the “cushion” the presence of embedded metal parts with loops that will serve to secure the plastic containers. Such fastening will not allow the barrels to “float” with a vein, and, thereby, disrupt the equipped autonomous sewage system.

The stepped bottom of the pit must be leveled and covered with a layer of compacted sand, the thickness of which must be at least 10 cm.

Stage # 2 - installation of plastic containers

Barrels are installed on the prepared bottom of the pit, fixed with straps to metal hinges immured in concrete. Connect all pipes and seal the gaps in the holes. The remaining space between the walls of the pit and the tanks is filled with a mixture of cement and sand, not forgetting to carry out layer-by-layer tamping. As the pit fills up backfill water is poured into the container to prevent deformation of the walls of the barrels under the pressure of the sand-cement mixture.

Preparation of a hole in the second settling barrel for connecting an overflow pipe. In this version, the flange is connected not from the side, but from above

Stage #3 - filter field device

In the immediate vicinity of the septic tank, a trench is dug 60-70 cm deep, the dimensions of which should allow the placement of two perforated pipes. The bottom and walls of the trench are lined with a geotextile fabric with a margin, which is necessary to cover pipes covered with rubble from above.

A 30-cm layer of crushed stone is poured onto the geotextile, the bulk material is leveled and rammed

Carry out the laying of drainage pipes with perforations in the walls, which are connected to the second settling barrel. Then another 10 cm of crushed stone is poured on top of the pipes, leveled and covered with a geotextile cloth so that the edges overlap each other by 15-20 cm. Then it remains to fill the filtration field with soil and decorate this place with lawn grass.

As you can see, any summer resident can make a septic tank from barrels. It should only be remembered that this facility is designed for the collection and disposal of a small amount of liquid household waste.

Homemade septic tank from plastic barrels: do it yourself

The choice of plastic containers for the manufacture of a homemade septic tank: video. Scheme of the device of the simplest septic tank from plastic barrels for a summer residence or a bath.

A do-it-yourself septic tank is built from barrels, as a rule, on suburban areas, where people live periodically - for example, in the summer, and also as a temporary sewer at construction sites.

Now it is not difficult to buy a ready-made autonomous sewage collection and treatment system, manufactured in the factory. It can be used as a capital structure for a country house. But for arranging a septic tank in the country, where you only periodically rest, and do not live permanently, it makes no sense to purchase such a system due to its high cost and complexity of installation.

It is much easier and more reasonable from a financial point of view to make the simplest sewage system with your own hands, using metal or plastic barrels for this purpose (both used and completely new).

A similar septic tank is constructed from tanks with a volume of 200-250 liters. It is clear that such tanks are not able to accommodate a large amount of wastewater. This fact is considered the main disadvantage of septic tanks from barrels. But the described structures have a lot of advantages. They are very easy to install. All work on the arrangement of sewerage is done by hand.

Tanks with a volume of 200 liters

The most time-consuming operation when installing barrels is digging a pit for them. You can do it yourself or order special equipment. In the first case, the costs will be minimal, but in the second, the work will take quite a bit of time. You choose.

If you want to use metal tanks or barrels, you should immediately take care of their treatment with special anti-corrosion compounds. Such containers have low resistance to aggressive effects of wastewater. It makes no sense to operate them without additional protection against rust - in just a couple of seasons they will fail.

But a do-it-yourself septic tank made of plastic barrels will last you much longer and without anti-corrosion protection. True, the installation of such tanks will be more difficult. This is due to the low weight of plastic containers. They will have to be additionally secured to eliminate the risk of barrels being pushed to the surface during spring floods.

We will talk in great detail about the process of building a septic tank from plastic products. It is these autonomous temporary sewers that are most often built in summer cottages. And now we will briefly talk about the principles of building a septic tank from iron tanks.

When arranging a septic tank from iron containers, it is required to dig a pit of suitable sizes and, without fail, concrete its bottom. Then prepare two barrels, drill holes on their sides. In them you will insert the outlet of the drainage and the inlet of the overflow pipe. Remember - the tubular product coming from the house is always inserted into the first barrel with a certain slope. Due to this, wastewater will flow by gravity into the septic tank without any problems.

Important pro tips to follow when equipping a sewer system from metal barrels:

• the second metal container should be installed in the pit a little lower than the first;
• use barrels with a volume of at least 200 liters;
• high-quality insulation of the septic tank from all sides is mandatory (it is not necessary to lay heat-insulating material only at the bottom of the pit);
• the tanks are backfilled with soil, the septic tank is covered with roofing felt, covers made of wood, iron (do not forget to make a hole in the coating through which the effluents will be periodically pumped out of the tanks).

Arrangement of a sewer system from metal barrels

If you want to increase the volume of the structure under consideration, it is allowed to install several barrels on top of each other and weld them together. In addition, additional iron jumpers can be mounted. They provide more secure fastening barrels. All joints between barrels should be carefully waterproofed. For this, hot bitumen is most often used.

Let's say right away. No matter how you equip the system from iron barrels, after 3-4 years the metal tanks will have to be changed. They will begin to rot and rust under the influence of aggressive drains.

Despite the ease of installation of such sewers, you will have to clearly plan all activities. First, decide where exactly you will install the septic tank. It must be removed from the garage, sauna and other outbuildings 1-2 meters, and from a residential building - 5 meters (at least). A wastewater collection facility is not built next to a well or well, from where clean water is supplied to the house.

Next, select the scheme of your autonomous sewer. For several people using a country septic tank in the warm season, a system of three barrels is recommended, which are connected in series with each other. Note! The first two containers must be with a bottom (they perform the function of settling chambers), the third - without it. The last barrel is essentially a filter well.

Sewer system from barrels

Principles of installation of plastic containers:

• The second barrel is placed at the bottom of the pit 10 cm below the first, the third - lower by the same 10 cm in relation to the second.
• Under the first two tanks, you need to equip a pillow from (its height is about 10 cm).
• The barrels are connected to each other by sewer pipes (they are called overflow pipes). In this case, the outgoing tubular product is located 10 cm below the incoming one.
• Under a barrel that does not have a bottom, a special cake should be made - a layer (0.3 m) plus a layer of sand (0.5 m). Such a pillow is necessary for the final post-treatment of wastewater soaking into the ground.

If at your dacha ground water are located high enough, instead of the third barrel, filtration fields are equipped.

Now purchase the materials that will be required for the construction of a septic tank (barrels, geotextiles, small gravel, corners for connecting pipe products, 110 mm sewer pipes, sand) and proceed to the next stage of the planned event.

A pit for a septic tank is dug manually or with the help of vehicles. According to its parameters, the pit is made larger than the geometric dimensions of the plastic containers used. Along the entire perimeter of the pit, the distance between its sides and barrels is maintained at the level of 0.25 m.

The bottom of the dug pit is necessary:

• tamp qualitatively;
• fill it with sand (arrange a 10-centimeter sand cushion);
• pour concrete solution;
• mount metal embedded elements in the resulting base (barrels will be fixed to them, so they must be with loops).

Experts advise additionally attaching plastic tanks to a concrete base using special belts (they are called bandage). They give a 100% guarantee that the barrels will not float to the surface during a flood.

Fastening plastic tanks

Now let's take a look at the plastic containers. In the one that will be installed first, we make a hole (it must be at a distance of 0.2 m from the tank cover) for a pipe coming from a residential building. On the opposite side of the chamber, another hole is cut out (in relation to the first one, it is shifted down by 0.1 m).

Also, another hole is made in the first container. It will be required to connect the ventilation riser. Important advice! It is desirable to equip the first barrel with a removable lid. A huge amount of solid waste always remains in this tank after sedimentation. And this means that you will have to clean it more often.

Drill holes in the second plastic container in the same way. If you are planning to build filtration fields, you need to cut two holes in the second barrel, placing them at a 45-degree angle to each other. These holes are needed for installing drainage pipes.

Installation of a septic tank, filtration well and filtration fields

The scheme for performing installation work is as follows:

1. Put two plastic barrels in the pit.
2. Connect pipes to chambers.
3. Backfill the tanks using a mixture of cement (dry powder) and sand. This backfill perfectly protects the structure from destruction during soil movements. The mixture is fed in layers of 0.25–0.3 m, and each layer must be compacted. At the same time as filling, pour water into the containers. Thus, you protect the barrels from deformation.
4. Pour a pillow of sand and gravel at the installation site of the third tank (a well for filtering wastewater), put the last barrel on the resulting cake and pour fine gravel into it (about a third).

Your septic tank is ready!

If instead of a filtration well you planned the construction of filtration fields, the arrangement of the latter is carried out as follows:

1. For the installation of drainage pipes, dig trenches of the required size. They must have a slope (per meter of pipe products - 2 cm).
2. You lay geotextiles on the bottom of the trenches, its sections on the sides are thrown onto the sides of the ditch.
3. Fall asleep with crushed stone (height 0.3 m) geotextile material.
4. Place pipes for drainage on a layer of rubble. As such, it is allowed to use home-made products (make holes in ordinary steel pipes). But it is better to use factory perforated pipes.
5. Fill the trench with a layer of crushed stone and lay geotextiles on top (overlap width - about 0.1 m).

You just have to fill the ditch with earth. Fields for filtering drains are made.

It is not advisable to purchase an expensive factory-made septic tank for an autonomous sewage system in a summer cottage, which is used only in the summer. There is a simple way to solve this problem, which does not require large financial costs. You can build a septic tank with your own hands from barrels by combining several plastic containers of various sizes into one system. Previously, such structures were made of metal barrels. However, with the advent of lightweight plastic products on the market, metal structures are used less and less. The operation of such a sewer facility is possible only with a small amount of liquid waste. In practice, a home-made septic tank from barrels is installed in order to collect wastewater from baths and temporary buildings.

Requirements for the installation site of a septic tank

When choosing the place of installation of plastic containers for collecting sewer waste, they are guided by sanitary standards and rules in force in Russia. It is necessary to maintain the necessary distances from the septic tank to wells and wells used for drinking water intake, as well as to the foundations of nearby buildings. It is recommended to retreat at least 5 meters from the house, and you can retreat at least one meter from the garage and the bath.

Requirements for choosing the location of a home-made septic tank in relation to other life support facilities for people living or vacationing outside the city

Approximate scheme for installing plastic containers

If no more than three people live in a country house in the summer, then two or three plastic barrels will be required to build a septic tank. The volume of these containers must be at least 250 liters. Barrels connected in series with each other by means of overflow pipes are installed in one line. Holes are cut in the plastic walls of the tanks for the installation of overflow pipes. At the same time, it is taken into account that the pipe leaving the chamber should be located 10 centimeters lower than the incoming one. The placement depth of each subsequent container should be 10-15 cm more than the previous chamber (staggered arrangement).

Two hermetic barrels are designed for settling wastewater, and the third with a carved bottom adapts to a drainage well for natural filtration of clarified waters. The first two chambers are installed on 10 cm sand cushions, well compacted and leveled. The third chamber (drainage well) is placed on a layer of rubble, 30 cm thick, which is poured on a 50 cm layer of sand. This sand and gravel filter allows for the post-treatment of wastewater leaving the ground. In areas with a high level of groundwater, instead of a drainage well, filtration fields are installed.

The simplest scheme of a home-made septic tank, which can be built from plastic barrels, concrete rings, galvanized containers, etc.

List of required materials for installation

If a septic tank is being built from plastic barrels with an aeration field, then the following building materials and equipment will be required:

• fine-grained crushed stone (fraction size 1.8-3.5 cm);
• geotextile fabric;
• a pair of plastic barrels with a volume of 250 l;
• orange sewer pipes with a diameter of 110 mm;
• tees and angles for connecting pipes at different angles;
• perforated pipes for drainage;
• couplings, flanges;
• glue for PVC pipes;
• two-component epoxy sealant;
• water tape.

From the tool you will need a level, a shovel, a rake, a jigsaw. In addition to the listed devices and hand tools, wooden pegs will also come in handy when marking out a site for a septic tank and a filtration field.

Features of the installation work

First, using a jigsaw, holes are cut in the barrels for installing overflow pipes and a ventilation riser. The hole for connecting the incoming pipe to the chamber is made at a distance of 20 cm from the upper edge of the container. The outlet is made on the opposite side of the chamber 10 cm below the inlet, that is, at a distance of 30 cm from the top edge of the barrel.

Fitting an overflow pipe into the hole cut in the first plastic sump drum and filling the gap with a two-component epoxy sealant

The ventilation riser for the removal of gases is mounted only in the first settling barrel. It is also desirable to provide for this chamber to have a removable cover, which allows periodically cleaning the bottom of settled solid particles. In the second settling tank, two holes are made at the bottom, located relative to each other at an angle of 45 degrees, for connecting drainage pipes laid along the filtration field.

Important! The gaps in the holes, which are formed due to loose contact between the pipes and the walls of the barrel, are filled with a two-component epoxy sealant.

Stage # 1 - sizing and excavation

When calculating the dimensions of the pit, it is assumed that between the barrels and its walls there should be a gap of 25 cm around the entire perimeter. This gap will later be filled with a dry sand-cement mixture, which serves to protect the walls of the septic tank from damage during seasonal soil movement.

If you have finances, the bottom under the settling chambers can be filled with concrete mortar, providing in the “cushion” the presence of embedded metal parts with loops that will serve to secure the plastic containers. Such fastening will not allow the barrels to “float” with a vein, and, thereby, disrupt the equipped autonomous sewage system.

The stepped bottom of the pit must be leveled and covered with a layer of compacted sand, the thickness of which must be at least 10 cm.

Stage # 2 - installation of plastic containers

Barrels are installed on the prepared bottom of the pit, fixed with straps to metal loops immured in concrete. Connect all pipes and seal the gaps in the holes. The remaining space between the walls of the pit and the tanks is filled with a mixture of cement and sand, not forgetting to carry out layer-by-layer tamping. As the pit is filled with backfill, water is poured into the containers to prevent deformation of the walls of the barrels under the pressure of the sand-cement mixture.

Preparation of a hole in the second settling barrel for connecting an overflow pipe. In this version, the flange is connected not from the side, but from above

Stage #3 - filter field device

In the immediate vicinity of the septic tank, a trench is dug 60-70 cm deep, the dimensions of which should allow the placement of two perforated pipes. The bottom and walls of the trench are lined with a geotextile fabric with a margin, which is necessary to cover pipes covered with rubble from above.

A 30-cm layer of crushed stone is poured onto the geotextile, the bulk material is leveled and rammed

Carry out the laying of drainage pipes with perforations in the walls, which are connected to the second settling barrel. Then another 10 cm of crushed stone is poured on top of the pipes, leveled and covered with a geotextile cloth so that the edges overlap each other by 15-20 cm. Then it remains to fill the filtration field with soil and decorate this place with lawn grass.

As you can see, any summer resident can make a septic tank from barrels. It should only be remembered that this facility is designed for the collection and disposal of a small amount of liquid household waste.

If there are no centralized sewerage and water supply networks near your summer cottage, then for a comfortable stay in the house it is necessary to build an autonomous water supply system and a local treatment plant - a septic tank. Today we will talk about septic tanks. Thanks to them, wastewater will be disposed of in accordance with sanitary standards without harm environment. It is easier and cheaper to make a home-made treatment plant from improvised materials, for example, a septic tank from barrels. The design can be designed for any volume of drains, depending on the number of people living in the house. In our article you will find a description of the nuances of making a cleaning device from this material, and the video at the end of the article will help you understand the process more clearly.

A septic tank from a barrel can be made with your own hands from different materials. The barrel can be plastic or metal. But the latter option is not the best, since the metal quickly corrodes in conditions of constant humidity, so the design will turn out to be short-lived. It is better to make a septic tank for small dacha from polymer containers with a volume of 200-250 liters. If many residents live in your dacha or the building can be used year-round, then the volume of containers should be even larger.

There can be many options for self-construction in the country of water supply and sewerage. So, water supply can be equipped from a well or a well, and the choice of a septic tank design depends on the characteristics of the effluents, the hydrogeological conditions at the site and the required quality of wastewater treatment. A septic tank from barrels can be:

• Single chamber. This homemade septic tank is, in fact, an ordinary cesspool. It can be with or without a bottom, depending on the type of soil and the level of standing groundwater. Waste water from the sewerage system enters the tank, where it is either pumped out by sewers as it accumulates, or filtered into the ground through a special layer of gravel and crushed stone at the bottom. Such a septic tank is suitable for a shower or bath without a toilet. The thing is that this septic tank will not harm the environment, only if fecal sewage does not get into it.

Important: structures without a bottom can only be used on sandy soils with good absorption capacity. On clay soils, runoff with drainage pump after settling, they are pumped into the filtration well.

• Two-chamber. A septic tank of two containers is more perfect. For a small cottage, two barrels of 200 liters are enough. Drains immediately from the sewer enter the first chamber, where they settle, as a result of which the heavy components settle to the bottom. In the second chamber, the clarified waters undergo a post-treatment process. A septic tank of two containers can be made with a bottom in both chambers or only in the first of them. Then a filtering layer is arranged at the bottom of the second chamber, and water is discharged into the ground.
• Three-chamber. Most the best option- sewerage for a summer residence from three containers with a volume of 200-250 liters each. In this design, the necessary degree of wastewater treatment is achieved, which does not contradict sanitary standards. Such effluents can be discharged into the ground without the risk of environmental degradation. Drainage from the sewerage is settled in the first chamber. Then the pre-treated waters flow into the second compartment, where they are further purified by the biological method. There is also a small precipitate of small impurities. Only then the purified water enters the filtration chamber, where it is discharged through a layer at the bottom into the ground.

Requirements for a septic tank

To build an effective septic tank with your own hands from barrels, you must adhere to the following rules:

• For high-quality wastewater treatment, the septic tank must be multi-chamber. As you understand, single-chamber septic tanks are contrary to sanitary standards. In a multi-chamber design, wastewater in the first compartment undergoes mechanical cleaning under the action of gravity forces, in the second chamber, due to microorganisms, they are split organic compounds. In the last filtration chamber, the final post-treatment of the liquid takes place, and the effluents are discharged into the ground.
• The septic tank from the barrel must be completely sealed, with the exception of the bottom of the last chamber. This is the only way to guarantee the safety of the entire structure.
• When choosing a place for a septic tank, it is worth adhering to the standard distances. So, from the source where the water for the water supply is taken, it should be at least 15 m. It is worth retreating at least 5 m from the foundation of the house. You should not lay sewer pipes near the water supply. The septic tank should be located at a distance of 1-2 meters from roadways and parking lots.

Tip: do not place the treatment plant too far from the house, as there will be problems with observing the slope of the sewer pipes. As a result, it may turn out that they enter the treatment plant at a very great depth, so the septic tank will have to be deeply buried in the ground.

• It is necessary to correctly determine the dimensions of all containers treatment plant. The volume of the first chamber of the sump must be equal to the volume of the daily discharge, which is determined from the fact that one tenant consumes 200 liters of water from the water supply per day. This number must be multiplied by the number of residents and by 3 (so many days the drains are in the septic tank). As a result, we get the working volume of the septic tank. The actual volume is usually a little more, but not less.

Necessary materials

After performing preliminary calculations - determining the volume of the septic tank, the length of the sewer pipeline, the hydrogeological state of the soil, the depth of freezing, the dimensions of the pit and the required slope - you can begin to build a septic tank from plastic barrels.

For work you will need the following materials:

• Two or three barrels made of polymeric material with a volume of 200 or more liters. In addition, you will need a plastic corrugated pipe or another barrel for the well.
• To close the barrels from above, it is worth taking three sewer covers (also made of plastic).
• Pipes for sewerage with a diameter of 110 mm. The length must be determined from the distance from the house to the septic tank plus a couple of meters of stock.
• Ventilation pipe with a cap with a diameter of 110 mm. The length of the pipe is not more than 1.5 m.
• Angle fittings and tees for the diameter of the pipes used.
• Flanges and couplings.
• Small crushed stone with a fraction of elements not more than 40 mm.
• Sand.
• Adhesive for joining PVC elements.
• Epoxy based sealant.
• Rubber seals for sealing the entry of pipes into the septic tank.
• Cord and pegs.
• Shovel.
• Roulette.
• Bulgarian.
• Level.

If the groundwater in your area is very high, then the bottom of the pit will have to be concreted. To do this, you will need a cement-sand mixture, an electric mixer, a mixing container, fittings and steel cables to fix the barrels on the bottom.

If the soil is loose, then the walls of the pit will need to be reinforced with wooden formwork or steel fine mesh. To insulate the treatment plant and the sewer pipeline, you will need mineral wool for pipes, foam plastic or foam plastic for the treatment plant.

Mounting

Before the beginning earthworks a sewer pipe must be removed from the house. It is from this place that you will dig a trench with a slope to the septic tank. Next, we make a septic tank from a barrel in the following sequence:

1. From the place where the sewer is removed from the house, we dig a trench 1 m wide to the place where the septic tank is installed. At the same time, we make the slope of the bottom of the trench taking into account 2 cm of difference for each meter of length. Under the septic tank, we dig a pit. Its dimensions must be 20 cm larger than the size of the barrels. At the bottom of the pit, we make ledges 10 cm high to install each communicating tank at different depths. The first camera will be at the top.
2. Since the septic tank has impressive dimensions, but low weight, groundwater can easily raise the tank to the surface. To prevent this from happening, a concrete pad is made at the bottom of the pit. For this, a cement-sand mortar is first mixed, then a sand cushion 10 cm high is made at the bottom of the pit. It is leveled and rammed. After that, a reinforcing mesh with outlets for fastening the septic tank is laid at the bottom. The bottom is poured with a layer of concrete 150-200 mm high.
3. After the concrete pad has hardened, you can proceed with the installation of the barrels. Each barrel is mounted on a separate step so that the next container is 10 cm lower. There should be a distance of 100-150 mm between the chambers. We attach the barrels to the outlets of the reinforcement in the bottom with a steel cable.
4. In the first chamber, at the desired height, we cut a hole for the supply pipeline with a diameter of 110 mm. We put a rubber seal in the hole and additionally seal it with mastic. Now insert the tee into the resulting hole. Then we connect the supply sewer pipe and ventilation to it.
5. At a height below 100 mm from the first hole on the other side of the first barrel, we make another hole for overflow. We also seal it with a rubber seal and insert the corner fitting.
6. We cover the first barrel with a lid and install a ventilation pipe.
7. Now cut a hole on the side of the second chamber and insert the corner fitting into it. The hole is sealed with a rubber gasket. We connect two daughters with fittings with an overflow pipe.
8. On the reverse side of the second container, we make a hole at the level of the middle of the barrel to install an overflow into the third chamber. We install the cover.
9. The third chamber is a sealed well with an overflow hole from the second chamber. We connect the second and third chambers with a pipe. We mount the cover. If a drainage well is used instead of the third chamber, then for its arrangement you need to take corrugated pipe with a diameter of 1 m. An overflow hole is cut in its wall, and a gravel-sand layer 300 mm high is arranged at the bottom. It is better to lay a layer of geotextile under the layer. Through it, water will be filtered into the ground.
10. Backfilling of the septic tank is carried out with alternating layers of sand and concrete. After making a layer 200-300 mm thick, it is wetted with water and rammed.

Important: as the backfill is completed, the barrels must be filled with water 20-30 cm above the backfill level. This will protect the septic tank design from deformation under soil pressure.