Greetings, dear readers!

I decided to replace the old windows with wooden house on one's own. It's not easy at all, so before that I reviewed a bunch of sites and forums, talked with friends who performed the installation. And he identified the basic rules for the installation.

First you need to take measurements of the windows in order to know the exact dimensions and order the window correctly.

Next, you need to dismantle the old windows. Then he prepares the installation site of the window, for this you need to remove the dust and debris accumulated during dismantling. Next, we carry out the installation of the window sill and prepare the plastic window for installation. Then we install the window itself.

At the first time it seems very simple, but there are small nuances, given which you can easily do it. I want to tell you more about the installation later in this article.

Do-it-yourself installation of plastic windows in a wooden house. Installation technology. Instruction, photo

Installation plastic windows do it yourself in a prepared box wooden house, like other construction and installation work, is carried out using a building level and a plumb line.

It is very important that the plastic windows in the house are strictly level, otherwise an open window, for example, a window sash will close itself or, on the contrary, open under its own weight. Thus, the technology of installing plastic windows in the window of a wooden house includes setting it to a level and plumb line before fixing the window.

Here is our, developed by our own experience, instructions for installing plastic windows in a log house.

First, I would like to note one point that will need to be remembered when buying plastic windows: When you buy windows, it would be good to immediately buy mounting fasteners for them, ideally 6 pieces per window.

These are iron plates (see photo), which, with the help of small efforts, are fixed in special technical sleds on the sides of the window frame. Thus, the frame is attached to the box with self-tapping screws through these mounting brackets.

During installation, many installers of plastic windows fix the window by drilling through the frame, but this is a violation of technology, and the tightness of special air chambers in the profile of a plastic window is thus violated, so this is not our method.

Plastic windows in a wooden house are generally a very capricious thing in theory, but if the correct installation technology is followed, then such windows in your house will last a long time, without upsetting their owners with all sorts of distortions and other malfunctions.

In order to prevent the installation of windows with your own hands from torment, we advise you to remove the window sashes from the window frame. To remove them, you need to pull the pins out of the hinges. Without window sashes, the frame weighs a little, and it will be much more convenient to turn it over, which will greatly facilitate the installation of windows.

The instructions for installing plastic windows in the prepared window of a wooden house are as follows:

Align the window. We put the window on the lower part of the opening on chips with a thickness of about 2 cm and adjust it horizontally in level. For setting the horizontal level, the best tool in our opinion is the water level.

Water cannot be fooled, it always aligns with the horizon.

Thus, having installed the window exactly at the level of the horizon, placing chips of the required thickness under the frame for this, will leave about a two-centimeter gap below for foaming with polyurethane foam, we proceed to setting the vertical level so that the window sashes do not live their own lives.

How the vertical level is set when installing a plastic or any other window, I think, is not worth explaining in detail, everything is clearly visible in the photo.

After we put the window on the level, we fasten it to the window with self-tapping screws through the aforementioned mounting fasteners.

There is one technological point here - do not hit the crest of the log on which the jig is sitting with a self-tapping screw.

It is better to screw the self-tapping screw a little obliquely than to deprive the construction of the window of independence from the log house in terms of the free movement of the carriages along the crests of the logs.

The next step in our instructions for installing plastic windows in a wooden house will be to mount the window sashes. It is imperative to hang the sashes on the window before foaming, but if you foame the frame without sashes, the foam can slightly bend the frame, and the sashes will not close / open well.

Thus, if the technology is followed correctly and the installation of the window and the plastic window is smooth, your window should stand in such a way that there will be distances of about 2 cm from all sides from the frame to the window for polyurethane foam.

And above the upper part of the window, there will be a gap of 5-10 cm to the log for shrinking the log house, so that when it is completely dry, the upper logs do not press on the windows.

Foaming the window. Control check - On the already fixed, but not yet foamed window, with the doors inserted, open the window and look.

If the half-open sash of the plastic window does not try to open further or, on the contrary, close, then our window is installed correctly and you can foam the frame with polyurethane foam.

Here is our do-it-yourself technology for installing plastic windows. We hope you find it useful in the construction of your wooden house! Happy construction!

http: //dachnyklub.rf/

How to install plastic windows in a wooden house with your own hands

In our wooden house, we decided to replace the old wooden windows with modern plastic ones. This article discusses in detail the installation of double-glazed windows with your own hands in a house made of wood. The article is based on personal experience... Why is it profitable to install windows yourself:

When installing double-glazed windows in a wooden house by a supplier or a manufacturer, the cost of the window together with the installation will cost 40-50% more from its original cost.

As a rule, about 95% of companies that install windows do not guarantee the quality of installation in a wooden house. Therefore, when self-installing plastic windows in a wooden house, you do not lose the warranty period, but only save yourself for your own good.

Installation of windows is shown on the example of self-assembly of a double-glazed window, without the help of outsiders, which takes an average of two and a half hours (for one window). Further, the process of inserting a plastic window into the window opening of a wooden house is described step by step.

Removing old windows

Self-installation of double-glazed windows in a wooden house is carried out on a solid foundation (frame). Since in our example, window boxes were installed quite recently (about 5 years ago) and were without damage (cracks, chips, putrefactive formations and wormholes), we decided to use them instead of a frame for installing new windows.

Old window frames that are in good condition and have sufficient strength can be reused, for example, to install a greenhouse.

Therefore, in order not to damage the wood of the frame, their dismantling must be carried out carefully, and before that it will not hurt to remove the glass from them. In our case, we didn’t pull the glass out of the frame, since the sturdy frames did not warp when they were removed and were dismantled quite easily.

Preparing a place for installing a double-glazed window

With a dry and clean cloth (or a soft brush), you need to wipe the window frame, remove the waste and debris accumulated after dismantling.

The PVC window sill is installed first, as it is the base of the glass unit when it is installed. In this regard, the window sill should be installed as evenly as possible (ideally horizontally). We check the exact horizontality of the installation of the window sill with a level both in the longitudinal position and in the transverse one.

To make the windowsill stand firmly, we make cuts well up to 8 mm deep on the sides of the window frame. To adjust the evenness of the window sill, we use special plates made of plastic or fiberboard, or thin wooden planks pre-treated with an antiseptic. After the final installation of the window sill, we measure the evenness of the window sill with a building level.

We fasten the window sill with screws to the bottom of the window box, while making an indent from the outer end of the window sill by 2 cm.When tightening the screws, we put washers under their caps in order to protect the surface of the window sill from damage, which is possible if it breaks through with a screw cap (at PVC window sill cavities are available). After the window is fully installed, the attachment points of the window sill will not be visible, since they will be hidden from the eye.

Preparing a plastic window for installation

At the very beginning, even before you start installing the window, you need to install the handle. It is not yet necessary to remove the entire protective film from the window surface, since it protects the window from possible mechanical damage.

Note!

The protective film is removed only in the place where you want to install the handles. When installing the handle, the handle should be in a horizontal position.

This position means that the window opens on its side, while if the handle is turned down, the window will be locked in the closed state, but if the handle is turned up, the window will open in the rolling mode.

We fix the handle to the window on two bolts, move the handle down. On the side racks of the window (at the ends) we make markings for making holes on which the window will be fixed to the block.

Then we drill with an electric drill according to this marking two through holes (lower and upper) in the right pillar of the glass unit and in the lower pillar (4 holes in total). The distance between the lower and upper parts of the glass unit to the hole should be from 25 to 35 cm. The drill diameter for this work should be 6 mm, while the diameter of the self-tapping screw is 5 mm.

In order for the screw head to firmly rest against the window frame, we drill holes on the side racks from the inside for fastening with a drill with large diameter- 10 mm, up to the metal frame itself. The hole should be such that the head of the self-tapping screw passes freely into the cavity of the window pillar.

Window installation

We install the assembled window into the window opening. The center is controlled by measurements, which are carried out with a tape measure starting from the edge of the window and ending with the surface of the window frame on both sides, the distance should be the same (approximately 1 cm each).

We install the window on the surface of the previously installed window sill. Since we have already checked the window sill for evenness with the help of the building level, there is no need to control the window itself for horizontalness.

For the installation of a window parallel to the wall of the house, we install a building level between the wall and the siding for an emphasis. If the house was sheathed to another finishing material for example, a clapboard that fits snugly against the wall and does not allow you to place the level, then you need to use a plumb line for control.

We install a spacer bar 1 cm wide between the window frame and the window. It is necessary that this block fits between the window frame and the window tightly enough. This block is needed as a stop at the moment when the window will be attached to the window opening using self-tapping screws.

If this is not done, then the window, when fastened, may go to the side (it will simply be taken away) and at the same time the mechanism for opening and closing the window will function poorly, or the window sash will not open at all.

When the installation of the thrust bars is completed, and the window is aligned with the level or slope parallel to the wall of the house, then we fix the glass unit with self-tapping screws. We fix the window to the window box from the bottom and top of its side posts, so that the self-tapping screw is in the free space between the box and the window.

Such an attachment is not only reliable, but also provides a floating effect. If there are seasonal movements in the structure of the house, skewing the window openings, then the windows that do not have a rigid binding to the box are almost not skewed, due to the fact that the self-tapping screw can arbitrarily move towards the skew of the window box.

Installation of double-glazed windows in a wooden house

First, we install adjustment plates between the drain holes. This is necessary so that the glass unit does not cover the holes through which the condensate is drained from the window.

We carefully install a double-glazed window into the window opening. We make sure that it does not fit tightly between the pillars of the window, since when seasonal changes and, accordingly, distortions of the window frame occur, the glass can burst.

Note!

If you have a dense entry of the glass unit, and there is no gap between the window pillars and the glass unit (at least 5 mm), then you should contact the company that made the windows for you according to your order for an explanation so that the company's employees eliminate this drawback. It is necessary to check the gaps between the frame and the glass unit even before removing the old window.

We install the glass unit evenly and fix it with plastic glazing beads, which have profile spikes that are inserted into the grooves of the window frame by lightly tapping on the glazing beads, in which the spike goes into the groove and a click is heard. A click means that the bead is securely fastened.

After the window is installed, we fill the void between the window frame and the window with foam for installation, both from the inside and from the outside of the house. Excess cured polyurethane foam is cut off with a sharp knife.

After that, you can start finishing with platbands, fittings and drainage.

source: http://stroykaportal.ru/

How to properly install plastic windows in a wooden house

The relevance of the question: "How to install plastic windows in a wooden house" (and not only plastic ones) lies in the fact that wooden houses are very unstable. Moreover, unlike a stone or reinforced concrete house, this instability manifests itself throughout the entire service life of a wooden house.

If these factors are not taken into account when installing plastic windows or doors in a wooden house, very unpleasant (to put it mildly) problems can arise!

What is the peculiarity of a wooden house? And the fact that the tree tends to "shrink", especially in the first years after construction. Those who claim that the frame shrinks in a year after its installation are mistaken.

Yes, the most noticeable shrinkage occurs in the first year, but the process continues for at least 5 years, and in some climatic zones - all life! As the logs or beams dry, the height of the wall can decrease by up to 1.5 cm per meter of masonry. This means that the height of the wall can "dry out" up to 6 cm.

And now imagine what will become of the plastic window if you, as always, left a gap for the foam of 2 - 2.5 cm ?! So, is the installation of plastic windows in a wooden house generally unrealistic? Quite the opposite!

But only if a special structure is installed in the opening, called a casing or casing.

The purpose of this structure is to give windows (and not only plastic ones) complete independence from the load-bearing walls of the house, to exclude even the slightest load on the window during shrinkage or curvature of the walls:

1. The cage does not allow the logs to move from the vertical in the window opening.
2. Does not interfere with vertical shrinkage.
3. It takes over the entire load.
4. Strengthens the wall of the house in the area of ​​the opening.

Let's take a closer look at this system. The simplest casing option is when a vertical groove of 50x50 mm is cut at the ends of the logs of the opening and a bar of the same size is inserted into it.

But this method of squinting is suitable ONLY for wooden windows. Therefore, we will not dwell on it. A more reliable option for casing is when a ridge is made at the ends of the logs, and a window carriage with a groove is put on it.

Now the logs, when shrinking (due to the ridge), will slide inside the groove, without deviating from the vertical and without pressing the window.

It happens that the groove is made in the logs, and the spike is on the carriage, the main meaning, I think, is clear.

Window carriages are vertical beams 150x100 mm, at the ends of which cutouts 50x50 are made for inserting horizontal lintels - boards 150x50 mm with spikes at the ends.

The assembled cage is made less than the window opening by 7 - 8 cm in height. This gap is left in the calculation for the shrinkage of the wall. When assembling the jigs in the opening, we put the ridges of the rolled tow and stuff the carriages on it. This will save us from squeaks during shrinkage and insulate the opening.

Note!

Further, the procedure is as follows - we lay the lower lintel, fill the carriages with tow on the ridge with tow, put the upper lintel into the upper gap and lower it into the grooves. We fasten the entire structure with self-tapping screws, trying not to grab the ridge, otherwise the whole point of installing the casing will be lost. In the gap between the window and the logs, we also hammer in tow.

But now you can insert plastic windows into a wooden house without fear of the consequences. We carry out installation in compliance with all technology: steam - noise - moisture protection. The gap between the casing and the frame is filled with thin boards wrapped in tow.

As the house shrinks, they have to be knocked out and replaced with others. To do this, the upper casing (attached only to the casing) is carefully removed and, after replacing the filling, is put in place.

At the seminars, I was often asked the question, why would a window fitter know the technology of building a wooden house. And then, so that you can determine whether it is possible to install a window in this opening.

And, if necessary, equip it with a classic casing. Of course for a fee. In my practice, there have been such cases.

Now there is such an important point. You insert a plastic window into a wooden house where there are wooden windows. The platbands were removed for accurate measurement, but there was no casing. That is, the box of the old window plays the role of a window.

This is where you have to make a choice (the owner, but with your help): redo the window opening for the casing or very significantly reduce the size of the future window. After all, on each side you need to add the thickness of the casing + the window frame + the gap for the foam. And what will be left there ?!

And in conclusion, I want to warn you:

Helpful advice!

In no case agree to install windows without casing in the opening. Even if the owner proves that the house is 300 years old and "all the shrinkage has already settled." The tree "breathes" all its life with everything, as they say, arising.

Well, in the most extreme case, you can yield to the client, under his responsibility. But do not forget to put a dash in the contract, in the "Guarantee" column !!!

All the same, the installation of plastic windows in a wooden house requires very serious attention.

There are always holes in a human dwelling, with the help of which natural lighting and, possibly, ventilation are organized. In most architectural projects, window openings are located in the walls. Of course, there are buildings into which sunlight enters through skylight tunnels, skylights, skylights, and other gadgets.

Up to 50% of all heat leaving the room falls on the windows. But, despite the enormous heat loss, mankind is not ready to “blind” with its home (in Russian the words “eye” and “window” are the same root), abandoning traditional windows.

About windows

Over its long history, window structures have not undergone very large changes. The window is still a frame filled with translucent material. Only the technologies and materials in the manufacture of the frame itself have changed, and first glass, and then translucent materials from polymers and composites have replaced the bull's bubble or mica plates.

And the question: "How to install plastic windows in a wooden house" is not entirely correct. First, because the concept itself is everyday. It usually means windows modern design, in which not single glasses are used as glazing, but double-glazed windows (translucent structures of two or more glasses, hermetically interconnected by spacers and sealants).

Double-glazed windows can also be with wooden frames. And also aluminum, steel or fiberglass, which, by the way, are much better suited for the Russian climate than the widespread PVC ones. It's just that plastic (PVC) for the manufacture of frames is the cheapest material, which is why it has become the most widespread.

And secondly, the process of installing a window does not depend on the material from which it is made. The basic requirements for installation are set out in GOST 30971-2012 “Seams of assembly units for joining window blocks to wall openings. General technical conditions "and relate to any design - both modern and traditional.

And there is no particular difference where to install the window: in a brick, wooden or some other house. It is important that the wall opening is properly prepared. Since the most common window designs today are windows made of PVC profile, called plastic, then the conversation will focus specifically on their installation.

How are plastic windows installed?

A modern window is a structure completely ready for installation, and, as mentioned above, the installation of a plastic window in a wooden house does not differ from the technology of its installation in any other building. Provided that you have correctly designed the opening in advance. For example, they made a good window. You can read about what it is, why it is needed and how to do it correctly in the publication.

A well-designed opening is also an installation gap of a fixed size around the perimeter. In the above-mentioned GOST, the compilers distinguish 2 types of mounting clearances:

• end (or side) - the space between the end surface of the window box and the opening;
• frontal - the distance between the front surface of the window block and a quarter of the wall.

Mounting clearances: a - front, b - front. Drawing from GOST 30971-2012. Photo from the site docs.cntd.ru

The dimensions of the mounting gaps depend on the dimensions of the window and the material from which it is made. Refer to the following table for the recommended clearances.

When installing windows, remember that you will need mosquito nets as well. You can choose the right ones in our market, which unites major online stores. Take a look at the selection.

LUX-TOOLS Mosquito net LUX-TOOLS white 110x130 cm 249 rbl
OBI

Galichi Mosquito net Galichi for a window 1200x1200 mm white 569 rbl
OBI

LUX-TOOLS Mosquito net LUX-TOOLS white 100x100 cm 199 rbl
OBI

Galichi Mosquito net Galichi for the window 1130x1000 mm white 529 rbl
OBI

DIY window installation

Today buy or order a window by individual sizes in a PVC profile frame is not difficult even in a small settlement, and in a large city there are countless companies engaged in the manufacture and installation of plastic windows. But many abandon the professional installation, relying on their own strength.

And this makes sense: the cost of branded installation will be from a third to half of the total cost. In most cases, anyone who has basic construction skills, a simple tool and has a partner, if the window is large, will be able to independently install a window in most cases.

Installation methods: frame plugs and mounting plates

There are two ways to install a window with a metal-plastic frame: using frame dowels (through the frame) and on special mounting plates fixed on the end side of the frame profile.

It makes no sense to choose which method is better, because each has its own positive sides. Professionals usually use both, and even during the installation of one structure - depending on the circumstances.

For self-installation small window it may be preferable to use mounting anchor plates. They are attached from the outside and there is no need to "unpack" the window - to remove the glazing beads so that you can remove the glass unit and get to the attachment point on the inside of the frame.

Professional installers firstly have special tool- plastic blades of different shapes, and secondly, dexterity. With improvised means, you can damage both the frame and the glass unit itself.

Fastening on frame expansion dowels, in turn, is more reliable for installing a large window or for glazing experiencing significant wind loads, for example, in an apartment on a high floor. If you do not plan to remove the double-glazed windows, then the opening sashes must still be removed before installing the window.

Window frame mounting options. Drawing from GOST 30971-2012. Photo from the site docs.cntd.ru

Whichever method you choose, you need to choose a reliable fastener of the required length and in accordance with the wall material. So, for a solid brick, you can use a self-tapping anchor, for a hollow one - Molly bolts, for a concrete wall, self-tapping screws with a plastic dowel are suitable.

To fix the frame to a wooden wall, pay attention to the following points:

• When installing, you need to take into account the size of the fasteners: the screws are taken of such a length so as not to pierce through the bar of the jig. The window fasteners should only be fixed to the casing bar, not to the wall. Otherwise, installing casing becomes a waste of money.
• If the details of the window, in addition to the assembly, also perform a decorative function (serve as slopes), then the installation of the metal-plastic frame with the help of special anchor plates is impossible, since the fasteners will be visible.

Marking of attachment points

After you have made sure that the prepared opening meets the requirements and dimensions of the finished window block, and have purchased all the necessary set of hardware, you need to mark the attachment points - the location of the anchor mounting plates or the installation of holes for the dowels.

The layout of the fasteners and support blocks. Drawing from GOST 30971-2012. Photo from the site docs.cntd.ru

The number of attachment points and their location depends on the window design and dimensions. You need to adhere to the following parameters:

• from the nodes of the connection of imposts - 150-180 mm;
• between fasteners along the length or height of the window - 600-700 mm.

Holes are made in the marked places or plates are installed. Then the prepared frame is placed in the opening, leveled horizontally and vertically with a level and fixed with spacers. Professional installers have special plastic wedges for this purpose. You can replace them with wooden ones - just bars or wedges. GOST recommends pre-soaking wooden wedge blocks with antiseptics. Holes are made in the wall according to the existing holes in the frame or mounting plates.

Installation seam device

In many cases (and professional installers, including if the contract does not specify "installation in accordance with GOST") at this stage, the window block is fixed, the sashes are hung and glass units are installed, and the mounting gap is filled with mounting foam.

Installation in accordance with GOST is somewhat more complicated. I will quote GOST 30971-2012 paragraph 5.1.3: “The construction of the assembly seam includes 3 or 4 layers with different functional purposes:

• the main central layer - providing heat and sound insulation;
• outer layer of sealing - ensuring the diffusion of moisture from the assembly seam and protection from atmospheric influences (rain moisture, ultraviolet radiation, wind);
• inner sealing layer - providing vapor barrier and protecting the insulating layer from diffuse vaporous moisture from inside the room. "

I - outer waterproofing vapor-permeable layer;
II - the main central heat-insulating layer;
III - inner layer of vapor barrier;
IV - additional vapor barrier.

To create the first waterproofing layer, PSUL tape (pre-compressed sealing tape) is used.

Also, waterproofing and vapor barrier tapes are used, which are glued to the frame from the outside and inside, respectively, and along the perimeter of the opening on the wall (see the diagram of the installation seam device above). For convenience, the tapes have 2 rows of adhesive layers: one is glued to the frame, the second to the opening.

Waterproofing and vapor barrier tapes for mounting windows with an adhesive layer. Photo from the site chistoe-okno.ru

After equipping the opening and the frame with all layers of vapor and waterproofing, the frame is finally exposed in the opening, securely fixed, sashes and double-glazed windows are installed. And finally, the mounting gap "foams".

The use of steam and waterproofing materials when installing a plastic window will prevent the destruction of the polyurethane foam under the influence of ultraviolet radiation and the effect of diffuse moisture on the insulation layer. That, in turn, will not only increase the service life of the insulation layer, but also save the window slopes from the appearance of spots of dampness and mold.

Installation of fittings and accessories

After the polyurethane foam dries, you need to trim off the excess and glue the other side of the vapor barrier tape. From the outside of the window, an ebb is mounted, decorative overlays are installed on the holes for the condensate drain, a mosquito net. Additionally, the assembly seam can be closed from the street side with plastic or metal strips.

When installing a window in a wooden house, the slots of the junction of the window to the walls are blocked by decorative platbands. Do not forget that all finishing details (slopes, ebb tides, details of platbands) are also attached only to the casing bar, and not to the wall, so that the window with all the elements can be installed independently and does not deform when the frame shrinks. From the side of the premises, work is also being carried out on the final finishing - the installation of fittings, slopes, window sills.

A properly installed window will delight you for years, especially if you did it yourself.

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How to fix a window: an overview of fastening hardware and a photo report on the installation performed

Hello. In this article I will talk about how to fix plastic windows in a residential building with your own hands using an affordable tool... I hope you find this topic interesting, as editing skills can save you money.

Despite the fact that for many manufacturers the price of windows includes the cost of installation, there are many companies where they will sell you a glass unit cheaper due to self-installation. The money savings are clear!

Basic information about window installation

Installation of glazing in the opening differs depending on the type of profile used and depending on the type of walls. For example, installation in a stone, concrete or brick wall is carried out directly without any structures to compensate for the mechanical loads on the window.

At the same time, installation in a wooden house is carried out with the obligatory arrangement of a casing box, which compensates for the loads due to shrinkage processes.

There are two main requirements for the installation of plastic insulating glass units:

• The strength and reliability of the installed glazing;
• Correct leveling relative to the vertical and horizontal plane;
• Correctly performed gap sealing around the perimeter of the opening to ensure optimal energy efficiency of the glazing.

Fasteners for the installation of double-glazed windows in a PVC profile

Commonly used fasteners for plastic windows: a - frame dowel with a metal seal; b - frame dowel with a plastic seal; c - universal plastic dowel; g - screw (self-tapping screw); d - anchor plate

Before proceeding to the description of the installation, I propose to find out what fasteners for PVC windows can be purchased in hardware stores. There are many fasteners and such a variety is not accidental, since each variety is designed for one or another type of walls.

Window fasteners are divided into the following categories according to the type of walls:

• for concrete walls;
• for the installation of brick walls;
• for installation in aerated concrete walls;
• for fastening to wood.

By the way, with the use of the listed fasteners, a protective grill can be installed.

Fasteners for installation in concrete openings

Plastic double-glazed windows in concrete openings are installed by means of anchors or, as they are also called, frame dowels.

To securely fix a heavy window in a concrete opening, it is customary to use anchors with a diameter of 8 or 10 mm and a length of 72 to 202 mm. The length and diameter of the hardware are selected taking into account the density of the wall - the more porous the concrete, the longer and thicker the anchor.

No matter how long or thick the anchors are, the strength of the finished product will depend on how accurately the hole is drilled. If the walls of the hole are broken as a result of unprofessional drilling, even the most reliable fastening hardware will not provide the required installation strength.

Installation with anchors is carried out in two ways:

1. A hole is drilled in the profile and the anchor enters the concrete directly through the profile;
2. An anchor plate is attached to the profile and the window structure is fixed to the opening through the plate.

The first method is relevant if the technological gap between the profile and the gap is small. If the distance between the profile and the opening is more than 1 cm, an anchor plate can be used, since the fasteners can be covered during finishing if plastic slopes are used.

Anchor plates are metal strips of simple or complex configuration. Plain plates are regular perforated strips. Along with such devices, there are "crabs" - plates that cut into the profile due to which the finishing of the slopes is simplified.

Fasteners for installation in brick walls

Fastening plastic windows in a brick opening is performed in about the same way as in. But there is one problem: if for installation in concrete, the holes for the anchor in the profile can be drilled in advance, then in the case of brick walls holes are drilled in place, since you need to get into the center of the brick, and not into the seam of the masonry.

For installation in a brick, the same frame dowel is used as for concrete walls, but with a length of at least 10 cm. A length of 10 cm is the minimum entry into a brick in which you can be sure that the fastener does not loosen or loosen when exploitation.

If you are sure that the brick is not hollow, and today this is extremely rarely used, you can use dowels 6-8 cm long.

Fasteners for installation in wooden openings

The best option for installing windows in a wooden opening without a casing is self-tapping screws in combination with anchor plates. This type of fastening is equally good for log, squared and frame buildings.

If a casing is installed in the opening, installation can be performed with screws directly through the profile. To install glazing in a wooden opening, I recommend using self-tapping screws with a length of at least 10 cm with a diameter of 8 mm. We screw in the self-tapping screws in steps of 30 cm.

Fasteners for installation in aerated concrete openings

Aerated concrete blocks are characterized by low density, and therefore we select special dowels for installation and perform installation with a small pitch between the screws.

The installation of glazing in aerated concrete walls requires detailed consideration, since an increasing number of houses are being built using such blocks. That is why, in order to get acquainted with the installation technology, I propose a small photo report on the installation work done.

Installation of a plastic window into the walls of aerated concrete blocks

To complete the installation work, you will need:

• Perforated anchor plates (160 × 40 mm and 2 mm thick);
• Plastic dowels (50 × 10 mm) for fixing in aerated concrete;
• Metal universal screws (60 × 6 mm);
• Electric drill and drills in accordance with the dowel diameter;
• Screwdriver with a set of bits;
• Water level;
• Roulette and pencil.

Installation instructions are as follows:

• If the perforation in the anchor plates does not correspond to the diameter of the dowels, we drill the holes, if the diameter initially matches, we skip this stage and go to the next one;

• Along the perimeter of the profile, we screw the anchor plates onto the self-tapping screws so that the holes drilled for the dowels are located outside;

In order for the frame in the opening to be securely fixed, we mount the anchor plates on 2 self-tapping screws, which will prevent them from turning. In addition, the installation step should not exceed 30-40 cm.

• We install the frame in the opening on plastic inserts and position it horizontally and vertically;

• After the structure is aligned in the opening, we drill holes in the aerated concrete blocks in accordance with the perforation in the anchor plates;

For drilling aerated concrete blocks, it is not necessary to use a drill with victorious surfacing. Since the aerated concrete is soft, it is quite possible to use the drill that was previously used for reaming the anchor plates. By the way, when drilling, we try not to jerk the drill from side to side, since breaking a hole in aerated concrete is easier than ever, and as a result, the dowel will not stick to the wall.

• We screw the dowels into the drilled holes;

• We screw self-tapping screws into the screwed-in dowels;

At the end of the installation work, we do not remove the liners from under the window, since they will provide additional stability to the structure.

• From the spray bottle, we abundantly moisten the technological gap between the opening and the profile;
• We fill the technological gap around the entire perimeter with polyurethane foam, so that the excess of the applied foam comes out from the outside and the gap is completely filled;
• After the foam dries, the excess is trimmed with an assembly knife on both sides of the profile.

By the way, how to attach a thermometer to the window and not punch holes in the profile in vain?

It turns out that there is nothing difficult, just buy a special thermometer with Velcro on the glass. Thermometers with lugs and mounting holes must be mounted on wooden rather than plastic frames. But, if a thermometer with holes for screws is available, fix this device to the profile with short self-tapping screws - there will be no harm to the profile from this.

In conclusion, I note that if you do not know how to fix the handle to the profile, you can also use small self-tapping screws that will pass through the PVC and will be held in the metal one.

Output

Now you know how to install a PVC window block in the opening of walls of different composition. Hope the suggested instructions were helpful. If you have any questions, as usual, ask them in the comments to the text. Also, don't forget to watch the video in this article.

Plastic windows can be installed in any kind of structure: stone, concrete, wood. But installation in a structure made of wood requires more attention, since wood is prone to shrinkage due to drying out. Wood that dries up turns into the strongest press, capable of deforming the window block. As a result, the window structure ceases to function correctly and may squint. Let's consider how to avoid such a situation and install windows without errors. Let's dwell on the specifics of the PVC window structure, its strengths and weaknesses.

Advantages of PVC windows

PVC windows are PVC window constructions. This material is a chemical synthetics based on petroleum ethylene, chlorine. This polymer is resistant to various influences and lasts for a long time. Window structures made of the specified material are resistant to:

• sun rays;
• high humidity;
• exposure to insects;
• the influence of organisms invisible to the eye.

PVC for window constructions is a tough and durable material. The strength of the polymer is several times higher than the strength of wooden structures and can withstand drops of one hundred degrees - from fifty degrees below zero to fifty degrees above zero.

Polyvinyl chloride consists of the following components:

• stabilizers;
• modifiers;
• dyes;
• fillers;
• lubricants.

The material serves for a very long time, manufacturers give a twenty-year guarantee, but it is still impossible to make sure whether this is so. The service life of the first installed windows has not yet passed. The assertions that even in fifty years the windows will not lose their properties are possibly real. But window seals fail much faster. As practice shows, they need to be changed every eight to ten years. In general, the service life of a seal depends on the temperature of each specific location.

Among the advantages of plastic structures are the following:

• high quality material and resistance to various kinds of influences;
• tightness of the structure - being in the room, a person is reliably protected from noise, dust, gases and harmful substances;
• high sound insulation capacity - windows are able to significantly dampen extraneous sounds;
• reliable thermal protection - complete protection against drafts and reliable heat preservation;
• profitability - saving heat resources;
• attractiveness of designs - you can use not only standard windows, but also embody design ideas in life.

The main properties of PVC window structures

Supporters and opponents of plastic windows argue over the safety of these structures for health. Those who argue about the unsafeness of structures for human health argue this by the presence of lead in the basis of raw materials. But lead in windows is completely safe, besides, most manufacturers have replaced this material with others. The fact that PVC window structures are quite economical and environmentally friendly is confirmed by certificates:

• thanks to PVC windows, heat is retained in the room and this saves resources and money;
• plastic structures save wood resources and thus prevent deforestation.

In some countries, the government pays money to residents who have installed plastic structures for their personal contribution and concern for conserving natural resources.

Opponents of plastic structures argue that over time, plastic takes on an unaesthetic appearance, as it turns yellow and fade. But at present, the technologies for the production of plastic windows have improved and the color is not lost under the influence of natural forces.

In the event of a fire inside the room, window structures of this type will "hold back" the fire, since the plastic structure has high thermal insulation capabilities.

Types of plastic windows

The construction segment is represented by huge variety plastic windows. They are different in many parameters: shape, size, number of doors, opening options, types of double-glazed windows, types of profiles. Currently, manufacturers provide windows with various kinds of decoration, varying degrees of transparency.

By the number of sashes, the windows are divided into one, two and three-sash. The option chosen depends on the location of the localization, the size of the structures and the individual characteristics of the dwelling. For a small window, it will be convenient to have one sash. For typical apartments, it is recommended to install a pair of windows.

With regard to opening windows, the following options are distinguished:

• a blind design is the most ill-conceived window in relation to its functional tasks;
• rotary elements;
• folding elements;
• combined elements.

Its operational capabilities depend on the characteristics of the profile. PVC itself has low thermal conductivity, but chambers with air inside the structure help to retain heat several times better. The thermal conductivity of the window and the air temperature in the dwelling depend on the number of chambers. There are from three to seven cameras.

Three-chamber windows are installed in rooms that do not require heating: farm buildings, sheds.

As for the six and seven-chamber windows, they do not perform their functions better than four or five-chamber windows, so there is no point in overpaying for the construction.

As for the marking of profiles with letters, there are types: A, B and C. Type "A" is used in dwellings. "B" and "C" are recommended for use in factories or warehouses.

The glazing of the structure itself can be made using two, three or four sheets of glass. They are fixed at the required distance from one another and form chambers.

Double-glazed windows can be one, two and three-chamber. This point can be confusing when buying a window. It should be clarified which cameras are meant, in the frames themselves or in the double-glazed windows.

Plastic structures for a wooden house

With the installation of plastic windows in wooden walls you will have to study the theory of the question in order to do everything right. Some people think that in old buildings wooden type it is impossible to install plastic windows. But in fact, no, it can be done in any type of premises. You can install windows yourself, provided that you have a minimum knowledge of the building blocks. The main thing is to take into account the peculiarities of wood as a material and take into account the fact that the wooden frame of the house can also sag.

After you have chosen the windows for a wooden house, you need to familiarize yourself with the technology of "okosyachki". This technique is aimed at preventing deformation of window structures, regardless of the selected material.

As statistics show, a wooden house shrinks up to thirty-five centimeters. Depending on the basis of the structure, twelve months after the construction of the house, it sinks in any case, this is a natural process. The maximum error will be provided that the house is erected from rounded timber, the minimum - from glued timber. An ordinary timber can sag by thirty to forty centimeters. This is taken into account as a factor capable of deforming window structures. Deformation can manifest itself in the impossibility or difficulty in opening and closing the window.

Builders advise not to install plastic structures in new homes until it has shrunk. But experience shows that old structures can also deform windows. But what to do, isn't it impossible to install plastic metal structures in wooden houses? In fact, experienced builders have developed installation technology that will allow PVC windows to be used to their full potential.

Installation instructions for plastic windows

For successful installation work, it is important to plan and implement competent preparatory work, they consist of the following actions:

• it is necessary to dismantle the old window structure;
• clean the grooves from construction waste and dust;
• correctly measure the window opening, write down the calculations;
• if the window opening does not match the dimensions of the new window frame, it should be adjusted to the dimensions using special solutions for working with wooden surfaces.

At the preparatory stage, a decision is made on the shape of the window, the number of sashes, in which colors it will be and in how many packages.

When all decisions have been made, insulating glass units are ordered according to the requirements.

Okosyachka is the next stage in the installation of a metal-plastic structure.

It is possible to finally install the window structure in a wooden structure after preparing the window. This is a structure made of wooden beams, aimed at supporting the weight of the load-bearing walls and not allowing the window to deform. The required size of the bar is ten by fifteen centimeters. Using a chisel, connecting grooves are made on these bars, about five centimeters wide. Longitudinal cuts are made using a chainsaw. All manipulations are controlled by the building level.

Plastic structures are inserted into the prepared jigging system and fixed with fasteners. The order of installation work is as follows:

• with the help of fasteners, the jigging system is fastened into a single frame;
• below with a wooden wedge leave a small distance;
• a window frame is inserted into the system of the manufactured window and secured with fastening structures;
• pre-removed window sashes are installed;
• all gaps must be filled with polyurethane foam;
• the wooden wedge, which was laid beforehand, is removed.

A window, installed specially in a wall made of wooden material, performs several important tasks:

• does not allow the structure of wood to move vertically;
• does not interfere with the vertical shrinkage of the log house;
• reinforces the wall at the place of the window opening.

Experienced builders insist on installing a window, even when installing plastic windows in an old wooden house. They argue that this measure is simply necessary. A structure made of wood all the time, to one degree or another, changes its size - it swells during rain, and dries up during heat.

Tool for the installation of plastic structures

The most important process is the process of installing plastic structures in their designated place. To do this, it is advisable to prepare in advance the entire tool that will be needed in the process of mounting the structure:

• drill for woodwork;
• screwdriver;
• fasteners: anchor bolts and plates;
• polyurethane foam;
• spray bottle with water.

Naturally, during the work, you will need other tools. Ideally, this work should be done with a partner who can feed the tool, hold the structure as needed.

Installing plastic elements is a challenging type of construction activity. If you are installing plastic windows yourself, take into account all the recommendations of specialists.

Calculation of plastic windows

It is not easy to calculate the dimensions correctly, it is a very difficult process, which is best entrusted to a professional from a window workshop. V recent times appeared online calculator plastic structures, allowing you to find out the exact cost. It is very convenient. Various filters are presented on the sites:

• you can choose the layout of the future window structure;
• decide on the configuration;
• in the configuration, a choice is made by type, profiles, types of double-glazed windows;
• after that, just click on the button and the calculation of the plastic structures will be performed.

The cost of window structures is influenced by the number of sashes, the choice of additional fittings, additional functions of the glass unit, the color of the profile.

To imagine how the installation of plastic metal structures in wooden houses takes place in practice, watch the video. In fact, you can install windows on their own, for this you need to take into account the specifics and features of this method and follow the recommendations of specialists.

Glad to be of service to you again, my friends!

After examining his windows in a wooden house, he came to the conclusion that it was time to replace them. I have not yet encountered such a process, so the absence practical experience I replenished it with the help of other people's knowledge: I "crossed over" a bunch of forums and sites, through friends I found people who had already done this kind of work. After that, I made a number of conclusions and determined the algorithm for my actions when reinstalling windows. Next, I will outline everything sequentially.

The first step was to measure the windows and order new ones, giving the exact dimensions. While the order was being fulfilled, he began dismantling the old frames, and then cleaning the openings from the accumulated debris. Upon receipt of the windows, I installed window sills and prepared double-glazed windows for installation. I put the structures in their permanent places and secured them. Of course, in reality the process was not so fleeting and easy, but there is nothing overwhelming in it - I did it and you will succeed.

The technology of installing a plastic window into the opening of a wooden house

When installing plastic glass unit you can't do without a level and a plumb line in the window of a wooden house - if you want the window sashes to have a smooth movement, do not open under their own weight or jam. Then never fix the window without making sure - not by eye, but by level, that it is level.

So that the work in connection with the insertion of the window into the opening and the alignment does not go down the drain, it is necessary to fix the structure set to the level with mounting fasteners.

The best option is 6 pieces for each window. They can be ordered in the same place where you apply for the production of double-glazed windows.

There are technical skids for these fasteners on each side of the window, so there will be no difficulties with the correct placement of the plates. Each plate has holes for self-tapping screws. Is it possible to do without plates? Yes, if you want to drill through it when attaching the frame, which will cause depressurization of the chambers in the profile. Personally, I am against such barbarism - I need windows not only for beauty, but also for reliable protection from cold and moisture. And if you don't install it yourself, tell the installers to install the windows according to the rules. Only in this case, the expectations from plastic double-glazed windows in a wooden house will be fully justified.

I strongly advise you to remove the window sashes from the frame before installing it in the opening. It will not take much time, but it will save a lot of energy: without them, it will become much easier at times and it will be easier to direct it to the right place.

Algorithm for installing a double-glazed window into the opening of a wooden house:

• by inserting the structure into the window, insert chips 2 centimeters thick under the lower frame;
• using the water level, determine the quality of the installation;
• achieve the desired indicator by adding additional chips;
• align the frame with the same pieces of wood along the vertical level;
• having determined the most optimal position, fix the frame on the box with self-tapping screws, inserting them into the holes on the mounting plates.

While screwing in each self-tapping screw, do not fall into the crest of the log, which the pintle rests on. To avoid loosening the self-tapping screw, screw it in slightly at an angle.

After fixing the frame, foam it along the contour only after hanging the sashes - they will prevent it from bending under the pressure of the hardening polyurethane foam. If the sashes are not installed before, then later there will be problems with the movement of the vents, even in an ideally installed frame.

At the end of the alignment of the frame horizontally and vertically, on each side of the entire structure there should be a gap of 2 cm thick - for filling with foam. The height of the distance between the upper panel of the window and to the first log is not less than 5 and not more than 15 cm - the gap will prevent the pressure of the wood on the windows after the frame has shrunk.

Before pouring the foam, a control check is needed to ensure that the entire structure is installed correctly. They are guided by the "behavior" of the open sash: it should not go further on its own than it was opened, or try to return back, obeying its weight, and not you.

Here is such a short educational program on the installation of a plastic double-glazed window in a wooden house. I hope that my advice will help you in your noble and exciting business.

Self-installation

I wanted to put plastic windows in my country wooden house. Everything that will be described below is a verbal presentation of my experience in self-assembly double-glazed windows in a house from a bar.

Why did I decide to do the window installation myself?

There are several reasons:

• for installation, you will have to pay up to 50% of the cost of the window itself (you can buy a third for the savings for 2 installed yourself);
• almost all firms that provide the service of installing windows in wooden houses do not give any guarantees for their work;
• no need to pay for a service that any owner is able to provide himself for 2 hours.

To make the installation result happy long years, you need to adhere to the step-by-step algorithm of actions recommended below.

Dismantling old windows

Regardless of who will install brand new double-glazed windows in a wooden building - you or invited workers - the installation of new structures is permissible only on a rigid foundation. I was lucky: in our house, the window frames were changed a couple of years ago, so the wood turned out to be flawless. That is, I did not find any wormholes, rot, cracks, dents or chips on it. Therefore, when ordering double-glazed windows, I indicated the dimensions of the new windows, taking into account the fact that the boxes will remain. If, in your case, the state of the frames turns out to be not very good, but thrift will not allow you to throw them away, then the dismantled one can be used as a basis in a mini-greenhouse.

Not sure how good and bad the boxes under your windows are? All the same, do not allow yourself or your employees to break them out with meat. You will always have time to start up the firewood. The same applies to glass: there is no certainty that they will not crack during dismantling, which means, first take it out - there will also be a use for it. I was lucky again: the frames were still strong, so the structures were taken out without removing the glass.

How to prepare a place

Run a dry brush or clean rag around the entire perimeter of the frame to sweep away anything remaining after dismantling.

Installation of the window sill

The first to be assigned to a permanent place is plastic window sill , which is "charged" to serve as the basis for the rest of the structure. Hence, the “legs” of the requirement to install it perfectly even and horizontally grow. The usual building level will help to determine how correctly it is installed in a vertical and horizontal position. To adjust its location, taking into account the level readings, use cut strips of plastic or chips (the latter only if they have been treated with an antiseptic). For the stability of the window sill, make a cut on each side of the box, going deep into the wood by 8 millimeters.

Fix the window sill with self-tapping screws, screwing it to the bottom of the window box. Fasteners are installed with a two-centimeter indent from the outer end of the window sill and with a mandatory substrate for each washer. It will not allow the self-tapping screw to break through the canvas if you overdo it when tightening the fasteners. Do not worry that the fasteners will spoil the overall impression - they simply will not be visible.

How to prepare a double-glazed window

I recommend that you put the handle on before starting the installation work. But the film can be removed and then - so there is less chance of leaving unattractive stripes on the surface of the plastic. Tear off the adhesive strip only at the place where the handle is installed. When placing the lever on the sash, keep its long part parallel to the window sill.

After installing the window, this position of the handle will correspond to the mode of opening the entire sash towards itself. When the handle is moved with the end down, the sash will be locked, up - only the narrow upper part of the window can fully move away from the frame panel.

Having secured the handle to the panel with a couple of bolts, you need to unfold it with the end down. On the side posts, mark out the holes for the fasteners, with which the window will be held within the frame.

Window installation

We put the assembled structure in the opening, making sure that from both vertical edges the intermediate distance from the frame to the sides of the glass unit is the same (about a centimeter). At the same time, remember that the horizontal direction is given to us by the window sill previously reinforced in the correct position. If it is inconvenient to use the level due to the presence of decor on the outside of the wall, then use a plumb line.

While the person helping you is holding the frame, you should wedge a 1-inch-wide spacer bar between the frame and the window frame. Their presence is necessary for the stability of the structure to be fixed at the moment of joining the glass unit with the frame with self-tapping screws. If you are too lazy or forget about the bars, you can provoke the window to leave the side during the fixing process. As a result, then the sash will be difficult to open and close.

After wedging in the bars and placing the glass unit strictly according to the level indicators, fix the inserted structure in the box with self-tapping screws, remembering to screw them on each of the four sides.

When introducing a self-tapping screw, you need to ensure that its location takes place in the free space between the window and the box itself.

Then, during periods when the house "walks" under the influence of climatic influences and seasonal movements, the windows in it will not warp.

Installing a window in a wooden house using self-expanding tape in the video:

How to install double-glazed windows in a wooden building?

First, take care of maintaining the patency of the drain holes - install adjustment plates between them, which will prevent condensation from accumulating from the window. Then insert the glass unit into the opening of the box so that there is free space around the entire perimeter between the two structures. It is necessary to preserve the integrity of the glass in the frame when the box will lead in the spring or winter after the house.

In the case of a tight fit of the glass unit to the box (minimum gap of 5 mm), file a claim with the manufacturer of the structure. A decent contractor should respond with an appropriate solution to the problem.

After inserting the glass unit into the box and aligning the first one on four sides with respect to the last one, fix its location with plastic glazing beads with profile spikes. These "spiky" strips are very easy to install: just push them inward with small taps into the openings. When the spines of the glazing bead reach the grooves, you will hear a characteristic click.

Having achieved a motionless and correct placement double-glazed windows in the box, fill the voids between these two structures with polyurethane foam, treating the cracks on the inside and outside.

Remove any hardened excess by cutting with a knife.

After making sure that the work has been carried out correctly: the grooves are closed, the sashes move only under the pressure of your hands, you can proceed with the installation of additional fittings, platbands and drainage systems.

Safe installation rules

All difficulties with the installation of windows in wooden houses have one root: the instability of wooden structures throughout the entire operational period. Not taking into account this factor in the process of installing plastic structures, even window or door, it is quite possible to find yourself in a situation where the new "carpentry" will fail without having worked for a year.

How do wooden houses differ from others? Wood loses a lot of moisture for the first time after the construction of a log house. A year, as some say, is not enough for the final drying process. In the best case, the walls of the house will take their final size in the sixth year after they are built. But in some regions, the process of "walking" houses never ends.

On average, the height of the wall can decrease by 4-5 cm. And what will happen to the glass unit, which was installed in the box in such a way that there was only 2-2.5 cm between the sides of these structures? Do the owners of wooden houses need to forget about dreams of plastic windows? Of course not. You just need to follow a number of technical recommendations.

First, don't neglect the casing. It is also called a little box. Thanks to her, any windows gain independence from the impact, within reasonable limits, of the bearing walls of the building. Whether they shrink or gain some curvature, this will not affect the integrity and functionality of the window.

General specifications casing:

• will protect the logs from deviating from the vertical in the area of ​​the window opening;
• does not resist vertical wall shrinkage;
• takes on all the loads;
• contributes to the strength of the wall in the area of ​​the window opening.

What is a siege? The most common option is to make square vertical grooves with a side of 5 cm at the ends of the logs and then seal them with bars of the same size. But such a treatment of the walls around the opening is only suitable for preparing a place for wooden windows. To prepare the opening for plastic double-glazed windows, you need to make a comb at the ends of the logs, and then install a window carriage with a groove on it. The presence of a tongue and groove will ensure that the logs slide without damaging the window frame.

What is a window carriage? These are vertical beams with dimensions of 15x10 cm, with notches at the edges. The depth of the cuts is 5x5 cm, they are made for inserting jumpers crowned at the ends with spikes in the form of 15x5 cm planks.

The assembled cage is 7-8 centimeters below the window opening. Such a gap is left due to the possible shrinkage of the wall. When the jamb is collected in the opening, it is then covered with rolled tow, and carriages are stuffed on top. After such a procedure, neither shrinkage creaks nor drafts from under the window are terrible.

Then you need to make the bottom lintel and also fill the carriages on the comb with tow. Insert the upper jumper into the cut-out from above, and then lower it into the groove. Then strengthen the structure with self-tapping screws, making sure that they do not touch the ridge - this is important for maintaining the resulting structure of relative freedom. Later all the cracks found between the window and the walls must be clogged with tow.

It is possible to insert metal-plastic double-glazed windows into such a structure, without fear that when the house shrinks, they will jam. When installing, do not forget that noise, heat, and vapor barrier also need to be taken care of.

The gap between the log house and the casing made must be filled with thin strips with wound fibers of tow.

When the house begins to shrink noticeably, knock out the planks to replace them with new ones. To facilitate this process, I strongly recommend that you only attach the upper casing to the casing. If you need it - carefully remove it, change the filling, fasten it in place.

When I was conducting seminars, I often encountered bewilderment about the need for a window fitter to understand the technology of wooden buildings construction. What's so strange about that? Without this, the installer will not be able to put the window in such a way that it will serve for years without complaints. In other cases, casing is indispensable.

If you are hired to install a plastic insulating glass unit in a wooden house, find out if there is a casing. If it is not there, and instead of a window there will be a box of an old window, tell the owner that he has two ways. Either he agrees to modernize the window opening for casing and windows smaller than planned, or the person will receive windows in old frames without casing, but without your guarantee of a high-quality result. Since even old wooden houses always "walk" and resist this, or rather, take this factor into account when installing windows. And do not forget to indicate in the contract that you are relieving yourself of any responsibility for the future life of the windows.

We put plastic double-glazed windows in a private house

Remember: all wooden structures shrink. And this fact must always be taken into account when installing plastic double-glazed windows in a log house.

The strongest wood shrinkage processes occur in the first two years after the end of the construction of a log house. Each meter of masonry shrinks by 1.5 cm. And this is a very large value to be ignored when equipping a wooden house with plastic windows.

What is the casing for?

The durability of the plastic window and the level of comfort during use depend on how professionally the casing will be carried out. It provides the window with a safe position during the period when the house is once again slightly deformed due to fluctuations under the influence of changes in humidity or temperatures.

What is a Siege? This is a box made of thick boards. It is inserted into the window opening, fixed according to a certain technology, and only then they are engaged in the installation of PVC double-glazed windows. The box itself is kept inside the opening with the help of lateral grooves.

In the process, one cannot rely on the technical qualities of the polyurethane foam, other fastening methods.

Between the structure and the upper lintel of the window opening, a gap must be left, the value of which must be greater than the expected shrinkage of the wooden wall.

How can you make a jaw:

• a tab of wooden beams into specially made grooves (screws will then be screwed into the beams);
• sawing out thorns at the edges of the logs in the window opening and shaping grooves in the sides of the box (experts call this the “in the box” technique);
• the thorns are made in the sides of the structure, the ends of the logs of the window opening are equipped with grooves.

The nuances of preparing the window opening

Do not be intimidated by the installation of a plastic glass unit in a wooden building. If you follow the correct algorithm, you can insert a modern window into a log house of any age with your own hands.

The first step is to determine the distance to the window from the floor. Most convenient option if the window sill is slightly higher than the horizontal plane of your desk. If there is none nearby, then be guided by a distance of 80-90 cm.

Determine the lower, upper border of the window opening using the water level. The upper line should run 13 +1.5 cm above the upper border of the glass unit, the difference on the sides should be 12-14 +1.5 cm. Leave one and a half centimeter of allowance for sealing the cracks with construction foam.

Having decided on the size of the opening, take measurements for the future window. Observe the utmost accuracy both when installing the casing and when taking parameters for the design of the insulating glass unit itself. High-quality measurement is one of the most important nuances affecting the quality of all subsequent work on the installation of a double-glazed window into the window opening.

After bringing the opening to the desired condition, engage in studding the ends of the logs facing the window. The draft window is trimmed with jute from the sides and bottom. Make the casing only from well-dried wood, sawn into blocks. Make the connections with self-tapping screws, and cover the convergence points at the joints with sealant. Fill the gaps in the window with tow.

For casing and casing when installing PVC windows in a wooden house, see the video:

Installation nuances

The finished metal-plastic structure is placed after being perfectly pulled out in the foreground or deepened into the wall. The main product is fixed with self-tapping screws, screwing them into specially prepared grooves.

It is permissible to install a metal-plastic window of any configuration in an ordinary wooden house, but not from a bar, if you know how to make the casing correctly, take measurements and choose the appropriate fittings.

When picking up tools and other material, do not take self-tapping screws longer than 12 cm. Such "stings" will definitely go behind the window and yell into the main building, which is unacceptable given the mobility of a wooden house.

For waterproofing the outer seam, you can use an acrylic sealant without additional components in the composition, a sealing tape that expands itself after being placed in place, or a regular vapor-permeable sealant. Such protection will extend the useful life of the foam and prevent the formation of drafts.

A vapor barrier tape is placed along the inner seam, securing it with a special glue. And only then they carry out the processing of the seam with polyurethane foam.