Today, metal-plastic pipes are widely used in the installation of heating, water supply and sewerage systems. From the name it is already clear that these pipes are made of composite material.

They consist of a layer of metal enclosed in a plastic sheath. Between the shell and metal surface there is also a layer of special glue. This design is able to withstand significant pressure and temperature up to 95 degrees. Wherein. absolutely safe for health, does not corrode and has a rather aesthetic appearance.

The advantage of this material is, first of all, in its low cost, ease of installation, and hygienic cleanliness.

Preparation phase

If for the installation of a water supply system the choice fell on metal-plastic pipes, then it is necessary to determine the amount of material that will be required to carry out the work.

This type of material is supplied in coils from 50 to 200 m in length, but in the store you can purchase any number of running meters of metal-plastic pipe. The length of the internal water supply system is counted from the riser.

Installation is carried out along the walls, slightly above the floor level, so it is required to measure the distance along the length of the wall from the riser to the proposed installation site of the farthest crane in your room.

Then, to the resulting value, add the height from the floor to the mounting hole of taps, toilets and washing machines... As a result, you get the total length.

It should be noted right away that any pipe connection significantly increases costs., and is also a place that is critical for the reliability of the system, therefore it is very important to correctly calculate the length of the entire system at the preparatory stage.

After the measurements have been made, the resulting value in meters should be rounded up to the nearest whole number. Then it is worth deciding on the diameter.

Reinforced-plastic pipes have an outer diameter ranging from 16 to 63 mm. When installing a water supply system inside a dwelling, the best option is 20 mm. The 16 mm pipe is more suitable for the installation of the "warm floor" system, as well as for branching from the main line to taps and mixers.

If it is necessary to make a water supply to a private house from a water supply network, then the maximum diameter of this material is selected.

Installation technology

types of fittings

When installing a water supply from metal-plastic pipes, you cannot do without additional materials and tools.

Tools that you may need while working:

• pipe cutter or hacksaw for metal;
• calibrator;
• roulette;
• spanners;
• pliers or press (when using press fittings);

Of the materials, fittings and clips should be purchased first to fix the pipe to the floor or wall.

Fitting- this is the connecting part of the pipeline used during the installation of the water supply system, used for branching, transition to another diameter, and also serves to connect pipes of dissimilar material. The purpose of the fitting depends on its design. If it is necessary to connect a metal-plastic pipe with a faucet or a metal pipe, then a collet-thread system fitting is selected. If between themselves, then the collet-collet system is used.

In addition to collet fittings, there are designs with a crimp mechanism, which fixes the metal-plastic pipe by means of a circular crimping of the pipe with special pliers or a press. This option is more reliable in operation, installation takes less time, but the cost of work also increases significantly, primarily due to the need to purchase a special tool.

Installation with push-in fittings

device

The connection process takes very little time and consists of the following stages:

1. If it's necessary, then a piece of pipe is cut off with a special pipe cutter or a hacksaw for metal.
2. A place where the separation was produced is leveled with a calibrator
3. The fitting must be disassembled. Then the fitting nut is put on the pipe with the thread facing the pipe edge. The nut should be pushed back from the edge by 20 - 30 mm.
4. Per pipe a collet ring is put on and also moves slightly from the edge.
5. Fitting nipple is inserted into the pipe until it stops, while it is necessary to be careful not to damage the rubber seals.
6. The nut is tightened.

On the other hand, the fitting is connected by a threaded connection with a tap or a metal pipe, or, if it is a collet-collet system, then with a metal-plastic pipe. The fitting can also be in the form of a tee to branch off the system. If the tee is used to branch from the main line to the tap, then a tee can be used: 20 * 16 * 20.

Press fitting connection

You will need a pliers or a special electric press. Pliers are mechanical, which produce crimping using human muscular strength, and can also have a hydraulic mechanism.

Installation takes place in the following sequence:

1. The pipe is cut off.
2. Aligns the hole using a calibrator
3. On a metal-plastic pipe a sleeve for crimping is put on.
4. On the fitting spigot the pipe is put on.
5. Pressing in progress using a manual or electric press.

If the connection process has been carried out correctly, then the extruded rings around the entire circumference should be visible on the crimp sleeve.

The result is a very reliable connection that requires no maintenance during operation. When installing a warm floor, only press fittings are mandatory. The use of such a connection technology allows you to significantly save time on installation, this can be especially noticeable when carrying out a large amount of work.

Fastening pipes

clips

After the water supply is assembled, you will need to install it on special clips, which must necessarily correspond to the diameter of the pipe of the corresponding size. First of all, clips are mounted on the wall using screws.

Then the pipe is taken and inserted with effort into these fasteners. This is the only possible mounting option.

The use of rigid fixing clamps is strictly prohibited, pipes should be able to slightly change their geometry when the temperature of the fluid that circulates inside changes. Only clips do this function well.

How to bend a reinforced plastic pipe?

Plumbing cannot be installed in a straight line only. Turns are inevitable when building a water supply system.

It is not necessary to purchase a tool called a pipe bender if you only need to change the direction of the water supply several times. When using a pipe with a diameter of 16 mm, this is done manually. It is only required to follow some rules that are valid for all diameters.

The bending radius should not be less than 5 pipe diameters, for example, for a 20 mm pipe, the minimum turning radius is 100 g.

If the diameter is more than 16 mm, then in order to correctly perform the fold, you need to use a special steel spring, which can be purchased at almost any building materials store.

The bending is done in this way. The spring is introduced into the pipe cavity and moves to the bend point. If you have to bend at a considerable distance from the edge, then a rope should be tied to the spring. This is required so that after completing the bending procedure, the spring can be pulled out of the pipe.

The spring can also be moved a considerable distance with the help of a powerful neodymium magnet, which, having come into contact with the pipe, must be led along, to the point of bending. When the center of the spring is aligned with the midpoint of the intended bend, the pipe should be bent by hand. Then the spring is pulled out with a rope.

If you need to bend a reinforced plastic pipe large diameter, then to the method indicated above, it is necessary to add 1 more spring, which is worn from the outside, and also leads to the middle of the bend.

The reinforced plastic pipe can be bent with sand or salt. For this, dry calcined sand or salt is poured into the pipeline cavity, then both ends of the pipe are securely closed with plugs, and a bend is made in the right place. After completion of the work, the sand is removed.

1. Installation work You can do it yourself, the main thing is not to rush, and if you need to perform some action for the first time, for example, bending, then it is better to first practice on some unnecessary piece of material.
2. All work must be carried out only when the water supply from the riser is turned off.
3. Do not be afraid to use when carrying out repairs modern materials. The plastic used in building materials, if not heated above certain temperatures, does not emit harmful substances. Of course, this is only true for certified products purchased from specialized retail outlets.

Pipes from the symbiosis of metal and plastic are produced for the arrangement of intra-house highways. The new products made it possible to assemble the water supply and heating system yourself, without involving plumbers. The pipelines serve for a long time, they are extremely simple and quick to install, without creating problems even for inexperienced craftsmen.

We will tell you everything about the specifics of the use of metal-plastic products and the methods of connecting pipelines assembled from them. The article describes in detail the negative and positive aspects of their use. Here you will learn how to install trouble-free systems.

Metal-plastic (metal-polymer pipes) - composite products for the production of which are used different kinds materials. Elements like this have an attractive appearance, good wear resistance, elasticity, strength.

Reinforced-plastic pipes are distinguished by high consumer qualities (strength, flexibility, resistance to high temperatures and aggressive substances), as well as aesthetic appearance

Typically, a pipe consists of five layers. A strong polymer, usually cross-linked polyethylene, is used as a carrier base. It gives a smooth inner surface, protecting it from blockages, and also contributes to the strength of the product.

An adhesive is applied to the core, on which an aluminum foil stabilizing the pipe is attached (it also prevents the ingress of oxygen). The connection is secured by butt welding or overlapping.

The design of a metal-plastic pipe provides for the use of five layers of different materials: two layers of polyethylene, two layers of glue, a layer of aluminum foil

The fourth layer also applies glue, to which the outer coating is connected - polyethylene white providing protection and aesthetic appearance to the product.

Technical characteristics of pipes D 16-20 mm

Here are the data typical for metal-plastic pipes of common diameters (16 and 20 mm):

• The wall thickness is 2 and 2.25 millimeters, respectively; the thickness of the aluminum layer is 0.2 and 0.24 mm.
• One running meter weighs 115 and 170 grams and contains a volume of liquid equal to 1.113 and 0.201 liters.
• The thermal conductivity coefficient is 0.43 W / m K, the expansion index of the metal-plastic is 0.26x10 4 per 1 degree Celsius, the roughness coefficient is 0.07.
• With a transverse rupture of the material, the strength factor is 2880 H.
• The strength index of the bond of the adhesive layer with the foil is 70 N / 10 sq. Mm, the strength coefficient of the aluminum welded layer is 57 H / sq. Mm. mm.
• Reinforced-plastic pipes can operate even at +95 o C, for a short time withstanding temperatures of + 110-130 o C.
• In the temperature range from 0 to +25 ° C, the system operates at a pressure of up to 25 bar, and at +95 ° C it can withstand a pressure of 10 bar.
• The tightness and integrity of the reinforced-plastic pipe is violated at a load of 94 bar (at +20 ° C).

With proper installation and observance of the operational rules, metal polymer products can serve for 50 years or more.

Advantages and disadvantages of metal polymers

The advantages of such products include:

• ease of installation: connections of various categories of metal-plastic pipes are quick and easy;
• high heat resistance (you can transport water heated to 100 ° C);
• reasonable price (metal-polymer pipes are cheaper than metal and most plastic analogs);
• high indicators of strength, ring stiffness;
• resistance to corrosion, aggressive environments;
• reluctance to form deposits and blockages;
• aesthetic appearance;
• high throughput;
• low thermal conductivity;
• sufficient plasticity;
• the possibility of easy repair;
• durability.

The main disadvantage of such products lies in the fact that the metal and plastic that make up the pipes have different expansion rates. Regular temperature fluctuations of the agent in the pipes can lead to loosening of the fasteners, which leads to leaks in the structure.

To avoid this, experts advise, when making installation, always provide a certain margin at pipe joints. It will also be useful because metal-plastic systems do not withstand water hammer well.

Image gallery

What materials will be required?

To lay the pipeline, it is important to stock up on the following components:

• pipes (coils, measured segments);
• various types of fittings (bypasses, tees, corners), with the help of which individual sections of pipes are transformed into a single system;
• fasteners - collapsible clamps and clips, with the help of which the metal-plastic structures are fixed on the supporting surfaces, most often on the wall.

It is important to pick everything up in advance necessary materials and tools so that then all the work can be carried out without hindrance.

He will acquaint with the assortment of metal-plastic products for the assembly of pipelines.

Layout of pipeline lines

Before starting work, it is important to think about how the pipes will be placed.

When developing a circuit, it is desirable:

• Draw lines of the pipeline directly on the walls of the room where it is planned to lay it, which contributes to the visualization of the structure.
• As a starting point, use the connection point of the pipe to the faucet or radiator, which must already be installed before installation.
• Minimize the number of tees and crosses that affect pressure stability and minimize the number of other fittings.
• For corner laying of reinforced plastic pipes, you can use a pipe bender or corner fittings.
• All connecting elements should be freely accessible, since fasteners on the threads need to be tightened periodically to avoid leaks.

The installation of the connecting elements must be performed after the completion of the calculations and the marking of the structure.

Overview of fittings for a metal-plastic system

To prepare for work, it is important to cut the pipes into sections of the required length, while all cuts must be performed strictly at right angles. If the pipe is deformed during the cutting process, it must be leveled with a gauge (it will also help to remove the internal chamfer).

To connect metal-plastic pipes of different categories into a single structure, connecting elements are used - fittings that differ in design, size and fastening methods

Various structures are used for installation, we will dwell on them separately.

Option # 1: collet

Push-in fittings, consisting of a body, a ferrule, a rubber gasket, have a split design, so they can be used several times. The thread of the parts allows you to combine them with household appliances.

To connect the connecting elements to the pipe, you must put on a nut and a ring in series. Insert the resulting structure into the fitting, tighten the nut. To make the pipe easier to pass into the connecting element, it is advisable to wet it.

Option # 2: compression

Parts widely used for connecting pipes, which can be called conditionally detachable. It is important to ensure that O-rings and dielectric gaskets are present on the shank of the part prior to installation.

Reinforced-plastic pipes are used for water supply, heating and sewerage. Among the advantages of the material is that the installation of metal-plastic can be carried out independently without the involvement of specialists.

Installation of metal-plastic pipes.

Types of fittings for metal-plastic pipes

The peculiarity of MP products is in connection only with fittings of different configurations.

Them there are several types according to the type of connection:

1. Collet - split designs are used repeatedly. The threads on the parts are suitable for matching with household appliances. In addition to the brass body, the crimp rings, rubber gaskets are included.
2. Compression - conditionally detachable parts are easily dismantled, but reuse does not guarantee tightness. O-rings and gaskets are available, and union nuts are used for clamping.
3. Push-fittings are characterized by the convenience of fastening, no special tools are required. Used for detachable connections. The pipe is inserted into the part, clamped with a ring with lugs. It is intended only for products with the exact wall thickness, if it is even slightly different, the connection turns out to be unreliable.
4. Press fittings - form permanent connections. The fixation takes place with the help of press tongs.

The following fittings are distinguished by configuration:

• adapters - fit products of different diameters;
• tees - are used to connect branches;
• corners - change direction;
• crosses - for connecting 4 pipes;
• water sockets - with fasteners for connecting a mixer.

Preparing for installation

Pre-make a drawing, indicate the dimensions. Connecting elements are drawn on the branches, their parameters are written. Take into account that the fittings for the taps must have a thread at the end. A list is made up, the purchase is carried out according to it - products are expensive, superfluous or unnecessary to buy. Pipes are bought with a small margin.

Tools

Before installation, metal-plastic blanks are cut at right angles. The most convenient way is to use a special cutter that looks like a pair of scissors. It forms the desired cutting angle - 90 °. Can be replaced with a hacksaw for metal and cut in a carpentry miter box.

In addition, other tools are used:

1. Calibrator. The main purpose of the tool is to restore the original shape of metal-plastic, to level the edges. The ends are flattened after cutting, which complicates installation. It also serves to expand the pipe outward, which is necessary for installation.
2. A countersink is a device with which chamfers and burrs are removed, but if absent, they are cleaned with sandpaper, a construction knife. Some calibrators are equipped with a special chamfering tab, so they do without a countersink.
3. Pliers - required for the installation of non-separable fittings.

For work, you will also need adjustable wrenches, a hammer, and a screwdriver.

Preparation procedure

Preparation of reinforced-plastic pipes for installation.

Pipes are bought rolled into a ring. Starting the installation, cut pieces of the required length, adding up to 15 mm to enter the fittings. When using the saw, burrs remain on the edges, which are removed (they are not after the cutter).

If a countersink is used, the chamfer is simultaneously removed from the outside. Then the calibrator is driven into the cavity and turned. At the same time, the geometry is leveled, the edge is flared.

Remove the internal chamfer using a construction knife, if the tool is without a special device.

How to align a piece of reinforced plastic pipe

They are pre-straightened by hands, but the perfect shape does not work out - it is important with an open installation method. Use a simple tool. Find a flat surface, wrap the piece in fabric. Rolled on a board, it turns out an even piece.

Wiring diagrams for the bathroom and the bathroom

Wiring is done in several ways. It is important for everyone to keep the number of connections to a minimum. It is advisable to purchase pipes and fittings from one manufacturer - installation will go faster. Access to connectors and valves is required.

Efficient manifold system

Collector system diagram.

Each consumer is connected to the central highway separately. A collector is used, which is hidden in a small closet.

On the branches to all devices, shut-off valves are installed. This allows you to regulate the water supply or turn it off altogether, which is convenient when you need to replace or repair a plumbing fixture. It is turned off, the rest of the consumers are working. The pressure on all branches is the same.

The supply pipes use a minimum number of fittings.

Collector wiring can be used for flush-mounted installation. Only fittings protrude outward and can be serviced if necessary. The pipelines in the wall are solid.

The only drawback is the high cost. More pipes and shut-off valves are required per branch. The scheme is complex - it must be carefully thought out, drawn, and the installation must be carried out carefully. Used with a large number of plumbing equipment.

Serial connection system

A central highway is being laid, to which consumers are separately connected through tees. The option is more suitable for bathrooms with a minimum number of appliances. It is used mainly for open installation, it can be carried out even after finishing the room. The financial costs are minimal - fewer pipes, valves are required compared to the collector circuit. The main expenses are for tees.

A significant drawback - there may not be enough water pressure if several points are working at the same time. If one device breaks down, all devices must be turned off for repair.

The circuit is similar to a series circuit, but without tees. Instead of them, water sockets are used through which the devices are connected. It is used in private houses - long pipelines and an additional pump are needed to raise the pressure. The connection is quick-disconnect.

The circuit is sequential, but without tees.

Sewerage piping

There is a specific installation:

• do not use 90 ° corner fittings;
• install tees with inspection covers in places of possible blockages;
• with hidden installation, viewing windows are left in front of them in the wall;
• make a margin for thermal expansion.

Use pipes with a diameter that easily passes wastewater... For a toilet bowl - 100 mm, for other appliances - 50 mm. Maintain a slope towards the drain. For products of 100 mm, it is 2 cm per 1 running meter. m, for 50 mm - respectively 3 cm.

The most common and simplest connection for self-assembly water supply from metal-plastic pipes. You will need 2 wrenches for flare nuts. The connection can be easily replaced if required. The details, despite the variety of configurations, are of the same type in design. They consist of a cast body with thread, ferrules for fastening the pipe and union nuts. The tightness is ensured by the O-rings.

Installation of metal-plastic pipes using compression fittings.

Sequence of work:

1. Unscrew the fitting and disassemble. Make sure the sealing gum is present. Assemble: a nut, then put the ring on the pipe.
2. Insert the calibrator and flare the pipe. It is lubricated from the inside and the fitting shank with a gasket with soapy water. These measures facilitate installation, the gaskets do not shift or break.
3. The fitting is inserted all the way, the ring is moved. Tighten the nut using 2 wrenches.

The latter operation requires some skill. If you do not pull, a leak will appear, if you overdo it, a fragile nut will burst. You should stop at the moment when a slight crunch is heard. The connection is periodically inspected, the nuts are tightened when a leak occurs.

Installing crimp or push fittings on MP pipes

The preparation of the cut is similar, but the chamfer is not removed from the outside, only the internal one is made. Before installation, dismantle the sleeve, inspect the part to exclude the use of defective elements. Collect back, not forgetting to install a special gasket to protect against corrosive processes.

The segment is pushed onto the fitting. The embedment depth is visible through a window in the sleeve - the edge of the pipe should be visible. Pliers with pads of the required diameter are installed on the edge of the fitting. The handles are connected by crimping the part. If done correctly, 2 clear stripes of equal depth are formed.

With your own hands, while observing the technology, it turns out to be reliable, communication with confidence can be hidden in the walls, concrete screed... The product is disposable, it is impossible to disassemble. The technology is used mainly for the heating system - the connection can withstand 10 atm. It is not recommended to use it above the 16th floor - the pressure may be higher.

Components of push-fitting.

A push-fitting is a detail whose creators tried to do without special pliers during installation. Clamping is carried out by a ring, otherwise the design is similar to a press fitting.

The prepared section is pushed onto the fitting, a click indicates the correct connection. You can verify by pulling the parts in different directions.

After connection, the pipe turns, so there are doubts about the reliability of the fastening, but this is not the case. Craftsmen still do not recommend installing push fittings for structures in the wall or concrete screed.

The parts have a high cost, so they are not widely used. The connection is fast, but the structure can be used only after 3 hours. This is the time during which the seal takes the shape that best matches the shape of the pipe.

How to bend a reinforced plastic pipe

Several methods are used, among which manual ones are more often used at home. The simplest and least reliable is using only construction hair dryer... The method is suitable for products with a diameter of no more than 20 mm, thicker ones are bent with difficulty. The pipe is heated with a hairdryer, wrapped with hands so that the thumbs serve as stops. Bend gradually in several steps.

Sudden movements are unacceptable, otherwise the product may deform. Do not exceed the limiting bend radius specified in the technical characteristics products. Pre-train on small scraps.

The use of a spring allows you to achieve high-quality and accurate bending. It is required to select a strong spring of a suitable diameter so that it fits into the pipe with a small gap. A wire is attached to one end to pull out the part at the end of the work. Injected inside, placing the middle in the center of the bend. Bending, resting on the knee, can be heated with a hairdryer. The method is used for metal-plastic of medium and low hardness.

Methods on how to bend a metal-plastic pipe.

Another method is using stiff wire. It is cut into small pieces, filling the inner space at the bend. The further process is similar to the spring version. After use, the wire is removed. The method is more time consuming, but effective.

Bending metal-plastic with sand is the most laborious process. The inner cavity is covered with fine sifted sand, leaving no voids. Muffs out both ends.

Warm up and begin to bend gradually. Salt is also used instead of sand. In both cases, the pipe is thoroughly flushed at the end of the work.

The most perfect option is using a pipe bender. There is no need for heating, and the bending radius reaches 180 °, rejects are excluded. The design of the device is simple, it consists of 2 rollers - a movable one and a template, a bracket handle.

Independently, if there is no pipe bender, you can make an analogue. A semicircular template with a radius necessary for bending is cut out of a board whose thickness exceeds the diameter of the pipe. Firmly fixed to the base - the product is ready for use.

How to attach to walls

With the open method of installation, the pipes are fixed on the wall. An affordable and attractive option is the use of plastic clips. They are different sizes, buy them by the diameter of metal-plastic products. They are single - suitable for laying water supply lines. Double clips are appropriate for a two-pipe heating system. The return flow is located side by side and in parallel.

The distance between the clips is 1 m, but it is possible more often, then the pipes will definitely not sag. For fastening, holes are drilled in the walls, fixed with self-tapping screws and dowels. IN wooden wall screw in screws without dowels. In places of turns, the clips are installed on both sides closer to the bends.

Plastic clips for fixing the pipe to the wall.

Non-standard connections with metal pipes, changeover to another diameter

Repair of a water supply or heating system, if steel pipes were previously used, requires the connection of metal and metal-plastic to each other. The metal pipe is cut, leaving 3-5 cm, an external thread is made. The connection must be sealed. Wrap up with tow, spread paint or use fum tape.

On the metal pipe screw on a fitting that has a union nut or an internal thread. On the reverse side, metal-plastic is fixed. The products are connected, tighten the nut.

If the pipelines are of different diameters, the installation is carried out in the same way. Only select an adapter fitting that has the right dimensions. On the one hand, there is a connector for metal-plastic, on the other, a thread for a steel pipe.

Plumbing made of metal-plastic pipes is the most common type of water supply "wiring" in houses and apartments. They have firmly established themselves in this market segment. And there are good reasons for that.

On this page we will describe all the pros and cons of such a water supply system, as well as describe in detail how to install metal-plastic pipes with our own hands, how to connect them using fittings, etc.

There are several objective indicators that allow metal-plastic pipes to plug their competitors in the belt when arranging a water supply system in an apartment or house:

1. Ease of installation. With careful work, they can be done by anyone without any preparation. In practice, this is a semblance of a constructor, the assembly of which does not require expensive tools and special skills.
2. Reliability. The 50-year guarantee is proof of this. But please note that this applies to pipes, not their connections.
3. Price. One thing can be said: "Cheaper, only for nothing." Some kind of competition in this parameter can be polypropylene pipes but otherwise they are losing.

Based on the foregoing, the water supply system on metal-plastic pipes is reliable, inexpensive, and you can assemble it yourself. Naturally, connection to the central system is the prerogative of professionals.

Sadly, but each barrel of honey has its own fly in the ointment... In the case of a metal-plastic plumbing, these are fittings.

A fitting is a device with which you can:

• change direction;
• drown out;
• connect;
• branch out.

In our case, we are talking about metal-plastic pipes. If the fitting has the same diameter at both ends, then it is straight; and if different, then transitional.

But these are only their varieties for their intended purpose, but according to the method of fixation, all fittings are divided into crimp and press fittings.

1. Compression fittings. In another way, they are called ring, or serviced. In such, the fixation is carried out due to the conical shape, the inner surface, the crimp nut, which, when screwed, compresses the trim ring. These connections can be disassembled and require periodic maintenance. Usually once a year, compression fittings on reinforced-plastic pipes, through which flows hot water, should be checked and, if necessary, slightly tightened. The reason for their weakening is the temperature deformation from hot water... For their installation, two gas (adjustable) wrenches are required.
2. Press fittings. Or maintenance-free, fixed on the pipe by pressing in a special crimping sleeve. The work is done with press tongs. They can be manual or electric. The first ones cost from 4 thousand rubles, the second from 25 thousand rubles. The connection is one-piece, but with a guarantee against leaks, regardless of the water temperature. Most often, press fittings are used in connections that will be walled up in walls, or with difficult access after repair.

The reliability and quality of the connections depend on the scrupulousness of the instructions. But for the price ... Although press fittings are cheaper than crimp fittings, their total cost for equipping a water supply system in an apartment is equal to the cost of metal-plastic pipes.

We plan a water supply system "on paper"

The most important and paramount is the water supply plan. If you have never done this, then you can compose it from scratch without much difficulty, although this undertaking is rather painstaking. But it all starts from the consumer.

1. It is necessary to designate the places where the cranes will be. This is a kitchen and a bathroom. With proper construction, they are usually located side by side, which makes it easier and significantly cheaper to organize the water supply system. IN ideal option if they are in adjacent rooms, only one pipe is required, from which branches will go through the tee to different rooms.
2. The place where water enters the house is indicated. There are only two options: central water supply or a private well (well). Depending on this, additional hardware may be required. In particular, when using water from a well, it is necessary to install a hydraulic accumulator (above the level of consumers). From it, water will flow by gravity into the house. Such a system is preferable because it does not require the pump to be constantly switched on. The accumulator does not have to be metal. It can be poured out of concrete. And already in the house is mounted:
3. Filter system (equipment depending on water quality).
4. Boiler.

Accordingly, what if water flows into the house from central system water supply, then at the entrance you will only need to install monitoring devices for metering consumption.

This is circuit diagram... It is not permissible to give recommendations on the filtration system without knowing the quality of the water. You should also apply to the water heating system. Depending on the conditions, the boiler can be electric or gas. The use of a water heater for liquid or solid fuels is not economical and is associated with certain difficulties. Especially in the summer.

Required tools and materials

From the cranes, a string is unwound along the wall. In places of bending or branching, carnations are hammered, and the direction changes. Accordingly, from the tees, there will already be two (or three) strings. Having marked out the entire system in this way, it is necessary to draw its location on the wall. You can use chalk or water emulsion.

Only after that, the rope must be removed and its length measured. Additionally, calculate the number of fittings and their types.

IMPORTANT: increase the resulting pipe footage by 10%. This is a common practice.

Regarding the choice of the pipe diameter, there is already an established opinion. For almost all residential buildings and apartments, there is enough metal-plastic pipe ᴓ16 mm in abundance. It provides feed up to 3 m 3 / hour. And most water meters are not designed for higher flow rates. And why more?

Choosing a manufacturer of reinforced plastic pipes is perhaps the most difficult task. Fakes are often found on the market. Purchase a pipe in a reputable store or from trusted suppliers. We recommend refraining from purchasing metal-plastic pipes from Chinese manufacturers. Negative reviews are all too common. The best quality metal-plastic pipes are produced in Belgium ( Henco), Germany ( Frankische and Sanha).

What is required from the tools:

• Cutter for metal-plastic pipes (from 250 rubles).
• Caliber with countersink (from 200 rubles).
• Conductor (from 500 rubles).
• Press tongs (from 4000 rubles, but can be rented).
• Two gas (or adjustable) wrenches.
• A hammer.
• Screwdriver.

How to work with the tool

Gauge, restores the shape of the pipe after cutting, and the countersink removes the chamfer and removes the burrs. If the caliber is without a countersink, then its work can be done using fine sandpaper.

The jig is used to bend the metal-plastic pipe. It can be external and internal. In some cases, using the internal is more convenient, because it does not slip in your hands. But it is not always possible, because the bend can be far from the end of the pipe. Therefore, we recommend staying with an external conductor.

Crimp tongs are required if you will be using maintenance-free fittings. We, on the basis of 16 years of experience, recommend press fittings. And there is only one reason. Most of the tenants forget about servicing the crimp fittings after a year. This leads to leaks. But the choice is yours.

Consumables will require: self-tapping screws, fasteners for metal-plastic pipes, FUM tape.

Installation process of metal-plastic pipes

It is necessary to start the installation of a metal-plastic water supply system from the source to the consumer (to the taps). Unwind a piece of pipe from the roll to the nearest fitting, and cut it off with a knife. Calibrate, deburr and chamfer. Then push the pipe into the fitting as far as it will go. Press fittings have special holes for depth control. The edge of the metal-plastic pipe should be visible in them. Then insert the fitting into the pliers and crimp the connection.

Compression fittings are secured using the supplied nuts and rings

It is quite simple to work with the press tongs with your own hands, since you will not be able to insert the fitting there "crookedly".

All pressing tongs have replaceable jaws for pipes of different diameters. Make no mistake when choosing sponges.

The installation process for compression fittings is slightly different. A nut is first put on the prepared pipe cut, then a trim ring, and after that, the pipe is inserted into the body of the fitting itself. Before tightening the nut, we strongly recommend rewinding with FUM tape. It only takes two to three turns. It is necessary to start from the edge of the thread and carry out the winding, holding the tape tightly. After that, moisten the threads with sunflower oil. This technique will protect against leaks!

The nut is first tightened by hand until it stops. And only then, holding the fitting with one gas wrench, tighten the clamping nut with the other. You should not pull with all your might, but a little effort is needed.

Installation with press tongs

The metal-plastic pipe should be fixed to the wall every meter. Special fasteners through a self-tapping screw are fixed in the surface, and a pipe is inserted into them.

In those places where it is permissible, the pipe can be bent using a conductor. To do this, put a conductor on the pipe, bring it to the right place, and carefully, holding the product with your hands, at a distance equidistant from the target place, bend the pipe in the desired plane. Considering that the bending radius of a metal-plastic pipe is equal to its 8 diameters, this approach is not always advisable.

Checking, eliminating leaks

Having installed the plastic pipes, connect them to the tap using the supplied hoses. Then go through the entire route again, and visually check the integrity of the assembly.

Pay attention to tees and splitters. Sometimes, carried away by one branch, the installer forgets about fixing the pipe in another.

Open the taps at the end of the plumbing (in the kitchen and bathroom). And only after that, slowly, in order to avoid a possible water hammer, open the water supply valve to the system. It is most convenient to perform this stage with a partner. He must control the exit of water at the end point. As soon as the water has gone, to flush the pipes, let it drain for 2-3 minutes. Then close the outlet taps, this will increase the pressure in the system, and go all the way through the pipe laying. Check all connections. If in doubt, rub a paper towel (or toilet paper).Do not confuse condensation water with leakage!

We guarantee that if you have completed the work according to our recommendations, then 99.9% will not have any leaks. If you have a legitimate concern about a connection, then tighten it slightly.



Reinforced-plastic pipes are polymer products that are commonly used in the arrangement of plumbing communications. They are an excellent alternative to steel counterparts, surpassing them in most performance characteristics, including cost and durability.

This article discusses the installation of metal-plastic pipes. You will find out what methods of joining metal-polymer products exist, how to mount them with your own hands and what tool is needed for this.

Content of the article

Design features

Reinforced-plastic pipes have a multilayer structure, which consists of 5 separate layers that perform different functional tasks:

• outer and inner layer of polyethylene;
• intermediate reinforcing layer of aluminum foil;
• shells made of aluminum and PE are bonded with two layers of high temperature resistant adhesive.

For the manufacture of metal-plastic products, two types of polyethylene can be used - PEX (cross-linked polyethylene) and PE-RT (thermally stabilized polyethylene). These modifications of PE differ in manufacturing technology; in practice, the differences between them are that PEX is more resistant to deformation during long-term heating, which makes PEX pipes the preferred choice for arranging underfloor heating systems and hot water supply.

A foil sheath lying between the inner and outer PE layers ensures zero vapor permeability of the pipes, which, in turn, minimizes the problems with corrosion of heating devices (boilers, radiators) due to the penetration of oxygen into the coolant.

Reinforced-plastic pipes can be used in the following systems:

• cold and hot water supply;
• radiator heating;
• warm floor;
• gas supply pipelines.

The temperature maximum for the operation of metal-plastic products is +90 degrees, they are able to withstand working medium pressure up to 20 MPa.

Metal-polymer pipes are produced in the range of diameters 16-53 mm. Products with a diameter of more than 40 mm are practically not found in domestic use, while segments up to 32 mm are most in demand. The cheapest and most used are multilayer pipes 16 and 20 mm, the cost for which is minimal.

The wall thickness can be from 2 to 3.5 mm, the maximum bending radius is 80 mm (when bending by hand) and 40 mm (when using a pipe bender).

Advantages of reinforced plastic pipes

The advantages of metal-plastic products that distinguish them from their polymer counterparts include:

1. Perfectly smooth walls (roughness coefficient 0.006), which guarantees quietness of the water supply system and no problems with permeability even after a long time of operation.
2. Complete resistance to corrosion and chemically aggressive substances.
3. High mechanical strength, resistance to bending and tensile loads, crack resistance.
4. The minimum weight, the low cost of the pipes and connecting elements themselves, the pipeline is extremely easy to install with your own hands.
5. The products bend easily and, due to the aluminum interlayer, perfectly keep the given shape.
6. Durability - the service life of products exceeds 50 years, and maintainability.
7. Aesthetic appearance - after installation, the pipeline does not need painting.

Among the shortcomings, we note the tendency of the material to linear expansion. To prevent the problems associated with it, the installation of metal-plastic pipes must be carried out in compliance with a number of rules, namely:

• for fixing, rigid fasteners cannot be used, since when the expanding line is clamped, the tension in the material greatly increases, you need to use sliding clips;
• it is important to observe a step between the clips of 40-60 cm, which does not allow the pipeline to bend between the fasteners.

In general, in terms of the aggregate performance, metal-plastic pipes are superior not only to metal, but also to most polymer analogs.

Do-it-yourself installation of metal-plastic pipes (video)

Installation of metal-plastic pipes

Installation of metal-polymer products is carried out using two types of fittings - compression (threaded) and press, for their connection, high-temperature welding is not used, since only composite pipes can be qualitatively soldered to each other.

The main advantage of fitting connections is the extremely fast and easy installation, which does not require special skills. We also note that by means of fittings, metal-plastic pipes can be connected to other types, including steel, copper, etc.

Installation with compression fittings

The compression fitting allows, if necessary, to be dismantled, which is why its cost is higher than that of a press analogue. The compression fitting design consists of three parts:

• fitting (metal or);
• crimp ring;
• union nut.

This fitting does not require special tool- the union nut of the fitting is threaded, which allows it to be tightened using an allen wrench or a wrench of the appropriate size.

Compression fittings are available in a wide range of standard sizes, you can purchase angles, adapters, crosses, etc.

Note that compression fittings need periodic repairs and maintenance, because due to the tendency of metal-plastic to linear expansion, leaks may appear at the joints of individual parts of the pipeline, which are eliminated by tightening the fitting. This imposes a limitation on the possibility of hidden installation of pipelines, which provides for concreting pipes inside walls and floor ceilings.

To connect segments using compression fittings, you need a tool:

• (can be replaced with a hacksaw for metal or a grinder);
• fine-grained sandpaper, file;
• calibrator.

Do-it-yourself installation of metal-plastic pipes is carried out according to the following instructions:

1. The pipe is straightened, measured and the required cut point is marked.
2. According to preliminary marking, the pipe is cut at a right angle.
3. Burrs are removed from the end part of the cut using a file or sandpaper, then the product is rounded by means of a calibrator;
4. A union nut and a compression ring are put on the segment, which is placed at a distance of 1 cm from the cut.
5. The pipe is put on the fitting, after which the union nut is tightened by hand. When the nut travels slower, it is retracted with open-end wrenches by 3-4 turns.

When tightening the fitting, it is important not to overdo it - after assembly and, if necessary, problem connections are reached.

Installation with press fittings

Press fittings give permanent connection, which does not require repair and maintenance, which allows for hidden laying of pipelines. Such fittings can withstand a pressure of 10 bar, and their service life reaches up to 30 years.

For using press fittings, in addition to the pipe cutter, calibrator and sandpaper you need a press jaw. It is a tool that crimps a fitting sleeve around a pipe. The cost of pressing tongs varies between 1-3 thousand rubles, the tool is presented in the assortment of all companies selling metal-polymer products.

The technology for installing metal-plastic pipelines is as follows:

1. The pipe is marked and cut at right angles into sections of the required length.
2. By means of a reamer or sandpaper, the cut site is cleared of burrs.
3. The calibrator eliminates ovality caused by cutting.
4. The segment is inserted all the way into the fitting so that it fits between the fitting and the crimp sleeve.
5. With the help of pressing tongs, the sleeve is crimped until the tool clicks. If the compression is done correctly, two rings of the same size are formed on the surface of the sleeve.

There are fittings in which the ferrule and the nipple go separately. In this case, you will first need to put a sleeve on the pipe, then fix it on the fitting, move the sleeve to the extreme position and squeeze it with pliers.