They were bred for their unusually beautiful flowers by crossing representatives of several genera of cacti from the Hylocereus tribe (Hylocereeae) family Cactaceae (Cactaceae). These are mainly representatives of the genera Disocactus, Pseudorhipsalis And Selenicereus, and only one species from the genus of epiphyllums - epiphyllum serrated (Epiphyllum crenatum). Therefore, the name “hybrid epiphyllums” is not entirely correct from a scientific point of view; rather, it reflects the hybrid origin of these plants and the epiphytic lifestyle of the original forms. In foreign sources, epicacti are often designated by the abbreviation EPIS.

The progenitors of these hybrids live in warm and humid forests of Central and South America, settling on tree trunks in hollows, sometimes in rock crevices where rotted leaves accumulate. They are protected from direct sun by the crown of trees. Plants are never exposed to low temperatures. In appearance, these cacti differ sharply from their desert relatives. Bare, practically without thorns, flat or round, strongly branched and often drooping, scalloped along the edges, the stems carry out the function of photosynthesis; rather large flowers bloom in modified buds - areoles. They were brought to England in the mid-18th century. Since that time, in many European countries (England, Belgium, the Netherlands, France, Germany) work began on breeding new hybrid cacti. After some time, at the end of the 18th century, they came back to America. Southern California's excellent climate has made it a major breeding center for these hybrids. The American Epiphyllum Society of America (ESA) was created, which maintains a list of hybrid forms and species of the Hylocereus tribe, and to date it contains more than 7,000 items.

Epicacti inherit the best qualities of their parents, often acquiring special features. Varieties have been bred with white, yellow, salmon, orange, red, pink, cherry, lilac, purple and lavender colors, except for blue flowers; some varieties are two-color, when the outer and inner petals are contrasting in color, with color transitions; There is a great variety in the degree of terryness and the number of petals in the corolla. The flowers usually do not have as long a floral tube as true epiphyllums, but each flower is more durable, depending on the variety, can last from 3 to 7 days, sometimes having a night-time scent. Based on flower size, all varieties are conventionally divided into several product groups:

• very small - less than 2 inches (5cm),
• small - from 2 to 5 inches (5-13 cm),
• medium - from 5 to 7 inches (13-18 cm),
• large - from 7 to 9 inches (18-23 cm),
• very large - more than 9 inches (more than 23 cm).

As a rule, flowering occurs in April-July, but there are earlier and later flowering varieties. In terms of the beauty of their flowering, epicacti can compete with orchids; they are often called Orchid cacti, and therefore such hybrid forms are becoming increasingly popular among gardeners. Modern hybrids are unpretentious in maintenance and provide amazing flowering. It is worth seeing it once to become a fan of these beautiful plants for life.

The stems of epicacti are often flat, belt-shaped, abundantly branched and drooping, which makes them convenient to keep in hanging baskets, but some varieties have partially triangular or faceted and erect stems. Although initially the goal was not to develop varieties for home keeping, work in this direction is also underway. Unfortunately, the variety of hybrid epicacti that our flower shops offer is small. But amateurs find opportunities to create considerable collections. Here are just some of the interesting varieties that show the variety of shapes and colors of epicacti:

• Maui- the stems are flat, triangular, the flowers are large, dark purple with a wide red stripe in the center of the petals;
• Vanilla Sunset- branched stems. The flowers are very large, saucer-shaped, the inner petals are pink with a white center, the outer petals are orange with a golden center;
• Crystal Flash- the stems are flat, triangular, the flowers are large, in the shape of a cup and saucer, lavender with a purple edge, the outer ones are lavender-pink, in 2 rows;
• Clown- the stems are long. Flat, large, cup-and-saucer-shaped flowers, white with crimson veins and a stripe down the center of the petal, outer petals red, overlapping;
• Koenigin- the stems are long, flat, climbing, the flowers are large, white, the outer petals are yellow, some of them may be red.

Conditions and care

Not only the appearance, but also the growing conditions sharply distinguish these epiphytic cacti from their desert relatives, therefore, in care, one should adhere to conditions similar to those in which the original natural forms grow.

Light bright, diffused, as if through the light shadow of foliage, is preferable. If there is a lack of light, the plant will not bloom, its stems will become less wide and will begin to take on a faceted shape not only at the base of the shoot, which will lead to a loss of decorativeness. Good lighting is especially important in the spring, when flower buds are developing.

In direct sun, the stems may become sunburned. Excessive lighting can be judged by the appearance of red pigment on the stems. Under normal light conditions, the stems grow evenly along their entire length and are green in color.

Priming loose, epiphytic, in composition reminiscent of jungle soil and rotted leaf litter. Epicacti can grow with soil acidity from 5 to 9, but the optimal pH value is 6-7. When the pH rises above 8, plants will not be able to absorb important elements such as iron, manganese, and phosphorus. When the pH drops below 6, nitrogen, phosphorus and potassium will be poorly absorbed. When the pH drops to level 4, the plant can be severely depressed.

Standard soil from flower centers is balanced in pH value within optimal limits (6-7), so to prepare the mixture it is better to use purchased soil as a base; substrates for aroids or bromeliads are suitable; about a third should be coarse material that drains well and prevents caking of the soil (small fragments of bark, perlite). When watering with hard water, calcium and magnesium will gradually accumulate in the soil, they will shift the pH value to the alkaline side. This can be corrected by adding sphagnum, high-moor peat to the soil or adding lemon juice (or other citrus fruits) to the irrigation water.

It is better to take a small pot volume so that the not very developed measles system densely fills the entire space. For a small cutting, a pot with a diameter of 8-10 cm will be enough, for a 2-3-year-old plant - 15 cm, for an adult large specimen, a pot with a diameter of 18 cm is maximum. The correct selection of the size of the pot and the composition of the soil will ensure the health of the roots and, accordingly, the entire plant.

Watering. In summer, water the plant regularly and moderately, keeping the soil always slightly moist. Water with lukewarm water after the top layer of soil has dried, without waiting for the entire volume to dry completely. And be sure to remove excess water from the pan after watering from above, and not from the pan. Overdrying the coma has a detrimental effect on the condition of the roots; waterlogging or choosing too heavy a soil will lead to the fact that air will not be able to reach the roots, and this will cause them to rot. In winter, it is necessary to reduce watering, but still not allow the soil to dry out completely.

As epiphytic plants, these cacti are adapted to partially absorb atmospheric moisture with all their stems and aerial roots; they respond very well to spraying with lukewarm water (not in direct sunlight) at temperatures above +18 o C (spraying at lower temperatures is undesirable, this can cause fungal diseases).

Feeding. Epicacti do not need high doses of fertilizers. During the winter holidays, from November to February, all feeding should be canceled. After the plants emerge from dormancy (February) and before the flowering period, they are fed with balanced fertilizers that do not contain nitrogen (NPK 0-10-10). Application of nitrogen fertilizers at this time may cause failure of flowering, and vegetative growth will begin instead of flower development. As soon as the formation of buds ends (usually in June) and until October, you can begin to apply nitrogen fertilizers (NPK 10-10-10). Partial fertilizing can be done by foliar application by spraying the stems with a weak solution of fertilizers.

Temperature. In summer, the optimal temperature for keeping epicacti is +22+25 o C. Epicacti do not tolerate heat well. During winter dormancy, from November to February, it is necessary to provide them with coolness (+12+16 o C). These plants do not tolerate negative temperatures at all.

Rest period in epicacti it begins around November and lasts until February. At this time, it is necessary to provide them with constant coolness; the temperature should not fall below +12 o C (up to +7 o C) and exceed +16 o C. A suitable place would be an insulated loggia or a cool winter garden. Since the metabolic rate drops as the temperature drops, plants spend less energy on their maintenance, you don’t have to provide them with additional lighting (the cooler it is, the less light they can be content with). At this time, the frequency and abundance of watering is reduced, but the lump should not be allowed to dry completely so that the roots are not damaged. Excessive soil moisture and a long drying time can lead to rotting of the roots. During rest, all feeding is canceled. If kept in warm winter conditions, the stems will become deformed, young shoots will become thin and stunted, the plant will become exhausted and will not produce flower buds. A full winter rest will contribute to abundant flowering.

Reproduction. New varieties of epicatus are obtained from seeds obtained by crossing different species or existing hybrids. A certain variety can only be propagated vegetatively, by rooting stem cuttings. To do this, take fragments of stems 10-15 cm long, and dry them in the shade in the air for several days (from 3 cm in summer to 10 cm in winter, or depending on the conditions). After this, oblique cuts are made from below towards the central vein, the sections are powdered with dry Kornevin and the cuttings are immersed in the ground a few centimeters (usually 2-3 areoles) until they are stable. The composition of the soil includes sand and a slightly acidic ready-made substrate in a 1:1 ratio. The soil should be only slightly moist, not soggy. To root cuttings, it is convenient to use transparent disposable cups of 100-200 ml (depending on the width of the stems), which have drainage holes at the bottom, or other small containers. Cuttings placed for rooting should not be placed in a greenhouse, where they can rot, but instead should be frequently sprayed with lukewarm water. Do not water for the first 7-10 days, until the soil is completely dry, then water very sparingly and from a tray so that only the very bottom of the soil gets wet (the degree of soil moisture and the height of the water rise are well controlled in transparent cups). Carry out the next watering in the same way and only after the soil has dried. Bottom watering will promote faster root growth downward in search of water; sparing watering will prevent the soil from getting too wet and the cuttings rotting. Rooting can be expected in about 3-4 weeks. In transparent cups, the growth of roots through the walls will be visible; in opaque containers, rooting can be judged by the increase in the thickness of the cuttings, the beginning of the growth of the crown or side shoots. From the moment the roots appear, start watering as usual from above.

Bloom in plants grown from cuttings, flowering may occur in the second year, but the buds often fall off without opening. Stable flowering begins only from the third year of life, subject to proper care and cool wintering.

Formation. If there is sufficient space, then the plant is allowed to grow freely in all directions, removing only deformed, old (since they gradually lose the ability to bloom) and disease-damaged shoots. Healthy shoots can be taken for cuttings. The entire shoot should be removed so as not to spoil the appearance of the plant.

Diseases and pests. When properly maintained, epicacti practically do not get sick. Some varieties are susceptible to fungal disease, causing reddish-brown spots to appear on the stems. The disease is often caused by too much humidity and low temperatures. In case of disease, you should urgently take several healthy cuttings from undamaged parts of the stem to renew the variety. When kept outdoors in the summer, they are often attacked by slugs. At home, it is possible to be affected by mealybugs and scale insects.

Epiphytic cacti 3.60 /5 (72.00%) 5 votes

Many believe that, or, at best, the mountainous small forests of the American Andes. But it is not so. In the vast world of cacti, there is a group of epiphytes. They grow in the humid forests of Central and South America (there are two or three species in other regions). In total, more than 200 species and forms are known.

Common types of epiphytic cacti

Among the epiphytic cacti there are well-known species: Zygocactus trunctatus, or, as it is also called, “Decembrist”, or “Christmas cactus”, and epiphyllum (Epyphillum sp.). The latter is familiar to many under the old name phyllocactus (literally “leaf-shaped cactus” - due to the unusual shape of the stem, reminiscent of large flat leaves). In addition to them, many species of rhipsalis (), heliocereus and selenocerus (, Selenocerus) are well known. Representatives of other, smaller genera of this group are less common.

Rhipsalis mesembryanthemoides

Most species are hanging, long (up to 2-3 m), cylindrical, tri- or polygonal vine stems (Heliocereus and Selenocerus) or small bushes of flat or twig-like segments (zygocactus, rhipsalis, etc.). Some epiphyllums form multi-meter thickets of belt-shaped leaves-segments.

Hatiora

In terrarium conditions, epiphytic cacti are convenient for keeping tropical animals (frogs, toads, slingshots, anoles, other small iguana lizards, geckos, tree snakes). Plants provide animals with the necessary shelter and support when moving around the terrarium (most of them are very durable) and are very beautiful, especially during flowering, which can last more than a month.

When growing cacti of this group in a terrarium, it is advisable to place them on epiphytic driftwood or pieces of bark. Residents of the humid tropics, they require relatively high temperatures (22-28°C) and humidity 85-90%. Light watering and daily spraying (on hot days - morning and evening) with warm (35-38 ° C) soft water are desirable. Once a week, plants should be fed with a very weak solution of complex fertilizers, and once a month - with a slightly yellowish solution of mullein or chicken droppings , kept in water for at least 15 days.

As the plants grow, they are thinned out, and individual segments are used to grow new cacti, especially since they take root well in moist sphagnum moss.

Epiphyllum, phyllocactus, also known as forest cactus, is a succulent plant belonging to the Cactus family, distributed in the natural environment from Mexico to the tropical zone of America. In 1812, Adrien Haworth discovered and described the plant.

Epiphytic cactus has long branched stems; they can be creeping or drooping. Stems are tetrahedral or flat. Due to their appearance, the stems are mistaken for leaves, but this is not the case; the plant does not have leaves.

The flowers are large (can reach a length of 40 cm, can open during the day and at night), funnel-shaped, the color is mostly white, but there are forms with cream, yellow, pink, and red flowers. Flowers are not only beautiful, but also fragrant. After flowering, an edible fruit appears that has a banana-pineapple-strawberry flavor. It is large, reddish in color, and often prickly.

Phyllocactus is very popular in home cultivation as an hanging plant.

How to care for epiphyllum at home

Choosing a location and lighting

To make the epiphyllum bloom, you should place the pot with the plant on a windowsill facing east or west. The lighting needs to be bright, but diffused. In the summer, it is advisable to take the phyllocactus outside - but be sure to protect it from direct sunlight, especially during the midday hours.

Air temperature

The optimal temperature regime for the plant in the warm season is 20-25º C. During the rest period (November-February) the temperature should be lowered to 10-15º C.

Watering

The plant needs regular spraying: more frequent in summer, less often in winter. Water as soon as the top layer of soil in the pot dries out. During cool winters, watering can be stopped altogether. With the onset of spring, resume and gradually increase watering. It is enough to spray the plant only on the hottest days. For watering and spraying, use settled water at room temperature.

Feeding

Epiphyllum requires sufficient nutrients. In spring and summer, it is necessary to add a solution of fertilizers for cacti to the soil twice a month. During the period of bud setting, fertilize with mullein: dilute 1 part of fertilizer with 10 parts of water. At the end of flowering, fertilize once every 2 weeks, alternating organic matter with mineral nitrogen fertilizers. There is no need to feed during the dormant period.

Trimming

Periodically trim the epiphyllum. Stems that are faceted or round in cross-section must be removed (they never flower), and flat stems must be shortened. Flowers appear on flat stems that have grown over the past year; on older stems that have already bloomed, buds will no longer appear, but to ensure the life of the plant, such stems can be removed after 2-3 years. Also remove twisted stems, stems growing inside the bush and on which corky formations appear. Treat the cuts with a fungicide.

How to make epiphyllum bloom and why it doesn’t bloom at home

Once the buds begin to form, the plant must absolutely not be rearranged or even simply rotate the pot with the plant, otherwise the phyllocactus will drop the buds. The flowers open one by one and delight each one for a week. In some species and varieties, flowering occurs twice a year: in spring and autumn. During the flowering period, water abundantly, place the pot with the plant on a tray so that excess water flows out and does not stagnate in the roots. Don't forget about fertilizing.

The reasons for the lack of flowering are as follows:

• Insufficient lighting
• Abundant watering during cool wintering
• Wintering in warm conditions
• Excess nitrogen in the soil

It occurs only when the plant is kept in conditions that are comfortable for it. Check whether there is enough light, moisture and whether the fertilizing regime is correct (you should stop applying nitrogen fertilizers). Be sure to maintain the air temperature at 12 º C during the dormant period (November-February). Under such conditions, the plant will definitely thank you by flowering next season.

Epiphyllum transplantation

Young, fast-growing phyllocacti require annual replanting in the spring. Replant adult specimens as needed (when the roots begin to poke out of the drain holes), do this after flowering. The container needs to be wide and not deep. A ceramic or thick plastic pot is best.

Be sure to lay a drainage layer at the bottom, made up of pieces of polystyrene foam, expanded clay, and pebbles. A substrate for succulents or cacti is suitable as soil. The following soil mixture is suitable: 4 parts each of leaf and turf soil with the addition of 1 part each of coarse sand, charcoal and fibrous peat. After transplanting, place in partial shade and water moderately.

Pests and diseases and epiphyllum

Pests

The succulent stems of the plant attract the attention of sucking insects: aphids, scale insects, spider mites, and mealybugs. Not only do they cause the plant to look drooping, but scale insects and aphids are carriers of viral diseases. First, remove pests mechanically: moisten a sponge or cotton swab with soapy water and wipe the stems of the plant. Then apply the insecticide treatment again every other week.

Consider plant diseases

Epiphyllum diseases - black rot photo

Black rot - the stems of the plant become covered with black shiny spots. It is necessary to remove the affected areas. Treat the plant with Fundazol.

Epiphyllum diseases - rust photo

Rust appears as red spots on the stems. This happens for a number of reasons: sunburn, drops of water falling on the stems when watering, excessive watering at cool air temperatures. It is necessary to treat the plant with Topaz.

Mosaic disease is a viral disease that is fatal to the plant. At the first symptoms, send the plant to quarantine, remove all damaged areas, treat the green mass and soil with phytosporin several times every 10 days. If the disease progresses, destroy the plant to prevent infection of neighboring plants.

Anthracnose - light brown spots on the stems. Actions: cut out the affected areas, treat with a fungicide.

Fusarium is rotting of the root system, manifested by a change in the green color of the stems to reddish, brown. Roots can rot not only due to this disease, but also if mistakes are made in care (excess moisture, watering with cold water, overheating due to prolonged exposure to the sun). There is always only one way of salvation - an emergency transplant. Remove damaged roots and treat sections with fungicide. After transplanting, it is better not to water for a while, then adjust the watering.

Errors in care and their consequences:

• From bright light or lack of watering, the stems dry out and wrinkle
• If the root system is damaged during transplantation, the stems will begin to dry out and die
• Excess nutrients will cause shoots to crack.

Growing epiphyllum from seeds

Seed and vegetative (by dividing the bush, stem cuttings) propagation is possible

Propagating phyllocactus from seeds is quite simple. It is necessary to fill the bowls with substrate for succulents, moisten the soil and distribute the seeds over the surface. Cover the crops with film, maintain the air temperature within 20-23º C. Do not forget to ventilate daily for 30 minutes.

When shoots appear, remove the film completely. The sprouts will look like small faceted cacti with spines - over time they will become flat and the spines will fall off. Expect flowering in the 4th-5th year.

Dividing the bush

Carry out during transplantation of an adult plant. Remove the phyllocactus from the pot, divide it into parts so that each section contains healthy, young stems and strong roots. Cut off dry, rotten areas and treat with fungicide. Plant in separate pots with drainage and substrate suitable for growing epiphyllum. Adaptation requires partial shade and minimal watering.

Propagation of epiphyllum by cuttings

Carry out cuttings from the beginning of April to the end of May.

• Divide the stems into pieces 10-13 cm long.
• Make a wedge-shaped cut along the bottom, place the cuttings for a couple of days in a dry, empty container to dry the cuts, then plant them in the ground, deepening them to 1 cm.
• Soil composition: 3 parts light soil with the addition of 1 part perlite; after planting, sprinkle the soil surface with a layer of sand (about 2 cm thick).
• Root in the shade, start watering after 2 days from the time of planting.

Types and varieties of epiphyllum with photos and names

Let's consider popular types and varieties of epiphyllum in cultural cultivation.

Epiphyllum oxypetalum a.k.a. Epiphyllum oxypetalum

The plant is large, reaches a height of about 3 m. The shoots are twig-like, flat, wavy at the edges, and woody in the lower part. The stem width is 10 cm. The flowers are huge: up to 20 cm long and about 18 cm in diameter. The color is white, hybrid forms can have different colors.

Epiphyllum anguliger or angular Epiphyllum anguliger

The bush branches heavily. The lower stems are round, sometimes triangular, woody, the upper ones are flat or triangular. The length of the stem is about 1 m, width – 4-8 cm. The color is dark green. The flowers are large (4-8 cm in diameter), painted bright red.

Epiphyllum hookeri

Originally from Cuba. It has long stems that, under the weight of their own weight, bend in an arc and fall to the ground. The flowers are white.

Epiphyllum crenatum

A semi-epiphytic plant with stems 70 cm long and up to 10 cm wide, their color is bluish-green. The stems are carved at the edges. The diameter of the flower is 15 cm. The color depends on the hybrid form.

Originally from South America. Shoots reach a length of up to 1 m, secondary flat stems are 25-50 cm in length. The flowers are pink, corolla diameter is 15-18 cm.

Guatemalan epiphyllum Epiphyllum guatemalense

The stems are a chain of successively connected parts, similar in shape to oak leaves. The size of each “link” is 5 cm in length. Flowers have a variety of colors.

Epiphyllum thomasianum

In the natural environment, the stems reach a length of up to 4 m, in indoor conditions they are limited to 70 cm. Flowers with a diameter of 25 cm are painted white, the core is yellow.

Epiphyllum ackermanii

The stems are drooping, with flat toothed processes located at a level of 4-7 cm from the base. The flowers are fiery red in color and are attached to thin stalks.

Epiphyllum Laui Epiphyllum laui

The main stems of the plant are 2 cm in diameter, the lateral ones are about 7 cm. The shoots are covered with hair-like needles about 4 mm long, their color is yellowish-brown. White-cream flowers open in the evening and show off for 2 days.

Popular hybrid forms of epiphyllum:

• Hybrid bred by Frank Nunn (unnamed) - the center of the flower is white, gradually turning into light pink, and the edges are bright purple.
• King Midas - stems are dark green, up to 1.5 m long. Large flowers with a diameter of about 16.5 cm are painted yellow-orange, almost golden.
• Just Pru - has flowers with a diameter of 12-16 cm, color: light pink center turning into dark pink edges.
• Epiphyllum Johnson - dark scarlet flowers.
• Wendy Mae - the color of the flowers is bright crimson. The shape of the corolla is unusual: in the middle the petals are short and rounded, and the outer petals are long and have pointed edges.
• Jennifer Ann - has bright lemon-colored flowers.
• Martina - cascading stems, consisting of oval-shaped segments. The flowers are funnel-shaped, with a light yellow center with reddish edges. Flowering exudes a pungent aroma.

Among fans of home floriculture, there is a widespread belief that cacti are like “severe Spartans”: strict, unapproachably prickly, and unattractive. In fact, any of such statements can be easily refuted by taking a closer look at the characteristics of this group of plants. Cacti are very different, and among them there are real “cactus orchids,” as a special genus is sometimes called - epiphyllum.

Epiphyllum: biological description

Epiphyllums are classified as forest cacti, which suggests an almost complete absence of spines, as well as an inability to survive in dry desert conditions. This genus is a child of tropical rainforests, and in appearance it bears little resemblance to “traditional” cacti.

The stems of epiphyllums are long, most often drooping downwards. They are very similar to green, fleshy leaves: narrow, flat or triangular, often wavy at the edges. Many people, even those who are fond of flowers, consider these stems to be leaves, although in fact they are branches. The true leaves of these plants are tiny, almost invisible, buried under the areoles. Aerial roots often develop on the stems.

If you confuse the branches of a plant with leaves, you should not be upset, because even the botanical name of the genus translated from Latin means “on top of the leaf”, “on the leaf”. European botanists, as we see, were not alien to the idea that the flowers and fruits of cacti are attached to the leaves, and not to the branches.

Epiphyllum flowers look like a long narrow funnel: in nature they are most often white or pink in color, but cultivated varieties have a much greater color variety. The flowers of most epiphyllums have a strong, pleasant smell. They bloom at the tips and corners of branches, leaving behind large, reddish plum-like fruits.

Interesting! These fruits are edible and are widely used in Indian folk cuisine. Many compare their taste to a strange mixture of banana, strawberry and pineapple. However, when eating fruits, you should take into account that on top they are covered with a slightly prickly skin that needs to be removed. By the way, the same small spines also cover the outer surface of the flower “funnel”.

"Family tree" of epiphyllums

Plant science identifies 20 species in the genus. Not all of them are used in indoor floriculture, but breeders have developed more than a hundred varieties and hybrids! Here is a brief description of several "domesticated" species.

Epiphyllum Anguliger. A large bush species, with branches reaching one meter. Large white flowers are white in color, and the stems are triangular in cross-section, sometimes almost round. Young stems are lanceolate.

Epiphyllum Phyllanthus. The flowers are pink and can reach 18 cm in diameter. The branches are large and often grow partially vertically. The plant is grown in winter gardens; it is too large for an apartment.

Epiphyllum Ackermanii. It has a pronounced triangular shape of the stems, with many notches on the bristly ribs. The species is relatively small, about 60 cm, the flowers are characterized by a variety of colors.

Epiphyllum hookeri. The stems are long, heavy, often lying on the ground, carried away by their own weight. A specific feature is the large, up to 5 cm, distance between the areolas. The flowers are always white, long and large.

As a rule, these species are rarely found in rooms in a “pure” form; usually we are dealing with interspecific hybrids and varieties.

Conditions required by the plant

Epiphyllum cactus can easily be classified as one of those plants that even novice flower lovers can care for. In any case, anyone can keep it in their collection as a magnificent hanging specimen. It is more difficult to achieve flowering of a plant, but doing this is a completely solvable task.

Lighting

There should be a lot of light, especially during the growing season, but it needs to be diffused. Can be kept on all windows except northern ones. It is permissible to use southern ones, avoiding direct sunlight.

Temperature

Most of the year - normal room temperature, ranging from +20°C to +26ºC. In late autumn and winter, when the cactus is resting, it is useful to reduce the temperature to +16ºС. This can be easily done by moving it, for example, to a windowsill and shielding it from the room with a temporary screen.

Watering

Don’t be fooled by the fact that the plant is a cactus! It loves constantly moist soil, slightly drying out in the top layer. The exception is the winter dormant period, when watering is reduced by approximately half (provided that the temperature is lowered!).

Attention! The normal watering regime is resumed only when buds appear on the shoots!

Air humidity

Epiphyllums are able to tolerate dry air in apartments, although they still prefer humidity raised to at least 60%. This is especially true during the period of bud formation and the beginning of flowering. In summer, it is useful to place these forest cacti on an open balcony, slightly protected from the wind and protected from direct rays of the sun.

The most common problem associated with caring for epiphyllum at home is the lack of flowering. To achieve full flowers, you need to fulfill a number of prerequisites.

1. Buds appear in spring, after a dormant period. From the previous text it is already clear that in the winter months it is necessary to lower the temperature, water little, and protect from cold drafts.
2. Make good pruning in the fall. Epiphyllum flowers appear on the shoots of the second year, and only one shoot can grow from each areole. The old one, already faded, needs to be removed. Pruning is also carried out to reduce the length of shoots. Usually over the summer they grow very much, and if they are not cut back, they often break under their own weight.
3. It is strictly not recommended to rearrange the plant, or even turn it, when buds are being planted! The “timid” epiphyllum will immediately drop them!

Soil and fertilizing

When thinking about how to make epiphyllum bloom, do not forget about fertilizing. Usually, plants are supplemented with standard fertilizers for cacti, but in the spring, when the buds are developing, it is useful to feed your pet a couple of times with complex fertilizers for flowering plants.

The amount of fertilizing also depends on the quality of the soil. Epiphyllums, despite their “epiphytic nature,” prefer nutritious but loose soil that retains water well. If you decide to do it yourself, take light leaf soil (three parts) as a basis, adding 1 part turf, 1 part peat, 1 part coarse river sand and a little crushed charcoal.

Transfer

You should not get carried away with this component of care. Forest cacti do not develop large roots, so the pot can not be changed for 2-3 years, adding only a little fresh soil to the top layer. Moreover, these plants prefer to bloom in conditions where the roots become cramped in the pot. But, of course, such crowding must have certain reasonable limits.

It is best to transplant in late autumn, or even at the very beginning of winter. In the spring, when the buds appear, you shouldn’t do it! It is useful to replant in the spring for young plants that have not yet bloomed and do not intend to do so this year.

During transplantation, take care of good drainage: this is very important for epiphyllums!

Trimming

Also, when replanting mature plants, perform pruning operations. It is important for flowering, as already mentioned, but bushes of forest cacti also need forming pruning. Remove old shoots that have bloomed repeatedly, remove shoots growing inside the crown, spoiling the appearance of the specimen. Try to have fewer old branches on the plant that are already covered with brown plug.

Getting new plants

If you need to replace old specimens with new ones, or simply increase the number of plants, you can propagate epiphyllums in several ways, and not complicated ones. The most popular of them is propagation by cuttings.

Propagation by cuttings

Cuttings should be taken from a mature, no longer young branch, preferably closer to its beginning. The length of the cutting is about 10-15 cm, but shorter ones often take root. After the cutting is cut, it needs to be kept for several days in a dark, cool place. The meaning of this is for the cut to be covered with a film and dry out, otherwise it often rots.

Root in a light substrate, even peat with sand. It is very important that the substrate is almost dry, not wet, but not too dry “to dust”. Deepen the cuttings into the substrate by only 1-1.5 cm, cover with film, protect from bright light and wait for roots to appear.

Attention! You need to water the substrate only after the roots appear!

It happens that during the rooting process rotting of the tip of the petiole is detected. This situation can be corrected: cut off the tip, dry it, and again put the cutting to root.

Remember! A rooted cutting will begin to bloom only after two, or even three to four years!

Reproduction by dividing the bush

A plant obtained by dividing a bush will bloom faster. Often, at the base of an adult epiphyllum, lateral children appear, growing from the roots. They can be carefully separated from the mother plant and planted in a separate, small pot. It is most convenient to do this during transplantation. The resulting young plants are usually able to bloom within two years.

Propagation by seeds

Epiphyllum can be propagated by seeds. The seeds extracted from the fruit are lightly washed in warm water, treated with stimulants (for example, aloe juice or a slightly sweet honey solution), and sown in a wide bowl filled with loose substrate. It is desirable that the top layer consists of clean, damp sand.

The bowl is covered with film, creating a kind of greenhouse, and placed in a warm place (+22+25ºС). Be sure to ventilate daily for at least half an hour!

You may be surprised to know that the tiny shoots that appear after about a month will look like ordinary prickly cacti! This is the period in the development of epiphyllums when their “cactus” nature becomes obvious. But a little later, as the branches develop, the thorns fall off and do not appear again. When the seedlings become crowded in the bowl, they are planted in separate containers.

Such specimens bloom even later than cuttings - not earlier than the fourth year. This is one of the reasons why the seed propagation method has not gained popularity among hobbyists.

Pests and diseases

As a rule, diseases are explained by improper care, although they can also be infectious in nature. If the epiphyllum withers and shoots are lost, this may indicate overwatering, rotting roots, or too low a temperature.

These cacti can be affected by fungal and viral diseases: fusarium and viral mosaic. At the first disease, characteristic spots appear on the shoots, covered with a keratinized brown film, increasing in size. With mosaic, the buds fall off, the ends of the branches dry out, and lightened spots appear on the shoots, occupying an increasingly larger area. In the case of infectious diseases, it is best to destroy the plant, and not even take cuttings, because the fight against these diseases is long and difficult, and not always successful.