Denis Gromovsky
In March we ordered a frame for windows and doorways. The quality of work and material is excellent. I also really liked the Company’s professional approach when working with a client: a competent and complete contract, everything is drawn up with drawings, technical details. tasks, subsequent monitoring of completed work is carried out. Everything is constructive and to the point. The future belongs to such companies. The times of petty scheming will pass, keep up the good work. Thanks a lot. Success and prosperity to you.
Gromovsky Denis.
Yaroslavl region, Yaroslavl district, Alekseevskoe.
Goltsman Elena Yurievna
Our family is very pleased with the work of the Shuvoe company. We carried out a complete caulking of our log house, manufacturing and installation of frames for eight windows and a door, and installation of windows.
All construction work was distinguished by accuracy of completion on time, sensitivity and understanding of our desires, and high quality of execution.
The workers were neat and disciplined, pleasant to talk to.
The prices are quite reasonable.
Thank you very much!
Frolov family
We would like to express our deep gratitude to the Shuvoe company for manufacturing and installing the window frame in our wooden house.
Despite the fear and doubts when selecting direct performers (we already had a not very successful experience), we realized that we were not mistaken in our choice.
We were pleasantly surprised by the high qualifications, efficiency and friendliness of the staff. The company’s specialists successfully completed all tasks, confirming their high professional level. We would especially like to note and thank the team of installers Sergei Shuvalov for their high degree of professionalism and for their well-coordinated work. And the competence, interest, and responsiveness of surveyor Eduard Simonov. And also Dmitry Alekseevich Sachkov for his help in resolving our problems.
During our cooperation, the company has proven itself to be a reliable and responsible partner. Everything was done at the highest level and on time!
Shuvoe, thank you so much for your wonderful work!
We wish you successful development and hope for further mutually beneficial cooperation.
Sincerely, Frolov family
Andrey Urusov
We are satisfied with the work.
All windows and doors function normally.
The plastic balcony door had to be slightly adjusted in height.
The work was carried out in winter, which caused me some concerns, but everything went well.
This summer I will contact you to install a window in the attic.
Sergey Podkopaev
I liked the design and workmanship of the pigtail. When ordering the pigtail, it was not indicated that you had to order windshields as a separate item; I thought that they were one piece with the windshield.
The products were delivered within the agreed time frame. It’s very good that all the beams were numbered. Your builders quickly cut out the openings, gave time for etching of the openings, and installed the frame. There were no jambs.
Overall, I received a pleasant impression from the work of your company and want to continue cooperation next year.
I would like to receive more detailed advice through an online consultant on your company’s website. Calling is not always convenient.
Best regards, Sergei.
Nikolay Sergeevich Redkin
All work was carried out efficiently and on time. Operational work of managers and
direct executors are encouraged to further cooperate with
Shuvoe company.
Sincerely,
Redkin Nikolay Sergeevich
village Panino
Alexander Zhigalov
I would like to thank the Shuvoe company for the work they did with all their hearts in 2017 in the village of Matveevo, Dmitrovsky district, Moscow region. The frame work, installation of windows and trim were done professionally and on time. We will recommend the company to our friends and acquaintances. I would like to wish success to the company team.
Sincerely, Alexander Zhigalov
Chirkov A.A.
Clear, professional, fast! Thank you! Let's continue working!
V.V. Starichenkov
Ladies and Gentlemen!
In April of this year, your company carried out work on the sill in my new timber house (Ryazan region). Overall satisfied with the work. It is clear that the company has a clear procedure for planning and monitoring work.
The only disadvantage I can mention is the high estimated price. In addition to the joint, my plans were to carry out all the finishing work in a 2-story house on a turnkey basis. There were hopes for your company. However, in the end, I had to adjust my plans towards attracting other companies.
These are the realities.
Alexander Krutskikh
Hello. Your company ordered a frame for four windows in a wooden frame. The work of measuring, manufacturing and installing the casing of window openings was completed within the agreed time frame. I am satisfied with the quality of the material and the work. You can rely on your company.
For anyone who has a question about choosing a pigtail installation, I advise Shuvoy.
Sincerely, Alexander, Domodedovo, Pavlovskoye
Marat Garayev
I would like to thank the Shuvoe company for the excellent work done in April 2017 in the village of Noviki, Serpukhov district, Moscow region. I would like to note the careful work of the builders Alexander and Alexey. They know their work well and professionally. In a log house on 2 floors, a lot of work was done to install frames, windows and trim. Many thanks to the head of the installation team, Sergei Molodkin, and Maxim Fedin for their good, conscientious work.
I would like to wish the entire Shuvoe team well-being, prosperity and success.
Best regards, Marat!
Maxim Mansurov
The company performed the following work in the Podolsk region, SNT-Yasenki: installation of a casing in a country house made of rounded logs, installation of plastic windows, platbands and a metal door.
All work was completed by the same craftsmen completely, efficiently and on time. The guys work at 5+. At the end of the work, the controller comes and checks everything again. I recommend it to everyone, the price is great.
Alexey Tretyakov
Thank you for the quality work, I really liked everything. The calculations were made quickly and accurately. Special thanks to the installation team. I will recommend your company to my friends and acquaintances. I hope to use your company in the future.
Leonid Khorev
Thanks to the employees of the Shuvoe company for the wonderful job they did in framing the openings and installing the windows. All preliminary questions regarding the order were resolved by phone and email with Dmitry Sachkov and Eduard.
The crew and material arrived to me at the agreed time. The team is experienced, smart guys, Slavs. We discussed the intricacies of the work with the foreman, and the guys buzzed with two chainsaws like a pair of bumblebees. In the afternoon, Sergei, a quality engineer, arrived, checked how the work was done, and took photographs of everything. We shook hands.
I am satisfied with the work performed in terms of the quality of workmanship and the quality of installation. The cost, of course, could have been lower, but on the other hand, I received what I ordered clearly, on time, and this does not always happen.
Best regards, Leonid Khorev.
Galina Shatunova
Dear employees of the Shuvoe company. First of all, we want to congratulate you on the new year 2017! We wish you good health, many good clients and all the best in the new year!
In November 2016, in SNT Lamonovo, your team, under the leadership of foreman Ivan, completed the work of piping, installing windows and arches in our house.
I would like to note the high professionalism, coordinated and high-quality work of the team. Nowadays it is very difficult to find really good professionals who know and love their job.
All members of the team worked harmoniously, everyone knew what to do, each operation was clearly assigned to a specific member of the team, everything was taken into account!
Thank you very much for your work, attitude, and understanding of our problems. I look forward to further cooperation with you. I will definitely recommend your company to all my friends, acquaintances and neighbors.
Sincerely, Galina Shatunova from Lamonov.
Windows and doors are an integral attribute of any building. But installing windows and doors in wooden houses differs significantly from the same procedure in brick or stone buildings. Openings for doors and windows significantly weaken the solid wooden structure of the house.
Therefore, in order to strengthen the walls and protect window and door blocks from the destructive effects of shrinkage processes, a frame (casing) is made in a wooden house.
In fact, a frame in a house made of timber is nothing more than a durable wooden structure in the form of a box installed directly in a door or window opening. In addition to its main functions, the jamb is designed to reduce the thermal conductivity of the areas where window and door units adjoin the wall openings, which increases the energy efficiency of the room.
In addition, correctly assembled and installed casing makes the facade of the house look more complete and attractive.
The casing is traditionally assembled from 3 components:
- sidewalls;
- top;
- threshold or window sill board.
The following types of frames for doors in a timber house can be distinguished:
- Pigtail in the embedded block
- T-shaped pigtail
- U-shaped pigtail
- Finishing casing
- Rough casing
- Pit from an array
- Glued pigtail
Making a pigtail
There are several different ways to make a pigtail:
- "Into the embedded block". Due to the relative cheapness and speed of production, the most popular is the socket in the embedded block.
- "The Thorn Monolith".
- “Into the deck” is another most common technology. The popularity of the method is explained by its simplicity and low cost of implementation.
- “Into a spike with a ready-made slope”
Such a pigtail is rarely made by hand, as it is a complex prefabricated structure.
Which method should I choose for making my own? Watch the video in this article about this.
Tools
To make your own pigtail you will need the following tools:
- chainsaw;
- a circular saw;
- jigsaw;
- drill and screwdriver;
- grinder;
- tape measure, square and pencil.
Once all the tools are ready, you can start working. There are two main types of frames: for wooden and for plastic window blocks. What will suit your home?
Manufacturing of casing for wooden window blocks
The casing for wooden windows is the easiest to manufacture. When starting its production, we grind grooves in the logs that are adjacent to the opening. Actually, these grooves will hold the window frame together with the window frame.
We grind the grooves so that the bars that will form the prefabricated structure are sunk into them. The instructions indicate that rectangular bars 50 mm thick are used to make the pigtail; the groove must be similar in size.
At the next stage, side bars are placed in the side grooves. In the same way, a seal is placed under the bottom bar and under the side parts. Lastly, the top beam is installed.
The groove into which the top beam is inserted should be slightly deeper than the bottom and side grooves. The resulting gap, as in the photo below, will serve as a compensation space if the walls are deformed during the shrinkage process.
Important!
In some cases, polyurethane foam is used as a sealant instead of jute and flax.
This is unacceptable, since when drying, the foam prevents the natural shrinkage of the logs.
What is the pigtail made of?
- To make the pigtail, it is advisable to use high-quality dry wood that does not deform during subsequent use. It’s not scary if the wood used has knots, especially since its price is cheaper.
- Upon completion of the assembly, the entire structure can be varnished and thus an aesthetic combination of the wooden wall of the house and the window block will be achieved. (see also article)
- The pigtail is made from predominantly hardwood that is not prone to cracking. This is necessary so that the pigtail can withstand shrinkage that exceeds the shrinkage gaps, for example, during extreme drying of the house.
- The finished casing will last for a long time if it is protected from the negative effects of environmental factors. To do this, the wooden structure is coated with a protective layer of varnish or paint intended for outdoor use.
- In most cases, the window frame on the outside of a wooden house is covered with platbands. However, provided that the entire structure is assembled correctly, you can do without platbands.
Manufacturing technology of casing for plastic window blocks
At the first stage, preliminary preparation of the window opening is carried out. We prepare the opening so that it is on average 15 cm larger than the window frame. The gap between the frame and the opening is necessary to install the frame itself and to compensate for possible shrinkage of the structure.
A ridge is cut out at the end of the prepared opening, which will serve as the basis for a window carriage with a pre-prepared groove. As a result, the process of shrinking the logs will take place inside the carriage along the groove. That is, subsidence will not create pressure on the window unit.
To make the carriage, 100×150 mm timber is used. In this beam, a groove is made in the middle into which the ridge should fit. As a result, the size of the carriage should be 5 cm larger than the window block.
The depth and width of the ridge should be 5 cm. The ridge is made precisely according to the level using a chainsaw.
The upper element of the casing is manufactured with section dimensions of 40×150 mm. On both sides of the board we cut out grooves into which the ridge will fit. After this, the top board (top) is installed on the ridges of the window opening. After the side carriages are installed, we fix the top with self-tapping screws.
Since wood is a living natural material, a natural process of shrinkage of the logs occurs in a wooden log house after assembly.
As a result, horizontal deformations, torsion and vertical displacement of the rims occur.
To eliminate the destructive effects of drying logs and timber on window blocks, a special installation technology is used, called sash or casing. Its essence is to create a sliding fastening of the window block, in which the shrinkage of the frame does not affect its geometry and integrity.
The casing of windows in a wooden house is done before the caulking work begins. The casing box (casing box) is a durable wooden frame assembled from thick, well-dried coniferous boards. The frame of the frame consists of a window sill, two risers (sidewalls) and a closing top board.
The dimensions of the frame are selected depending on the size of the opening, leaving a gap of 3-5 mm between the side posts of the frame and the wall for laying insulation. The width of the frame boards should be equal to the thickness of the log house walls.
Features of installation of the pigtail
The casing is installed in such a way that when the walls of the log house shrink, its crowns can move freely vertically under the influence of their own weight. To do this, a gap of 40-60 mm is left between the box and the upper crown, which gradually decreases during the shrinkage process, compensating for the vertical displacement of the logs.
Protrusions (grooves) are made on the sides of the casing frame. Under the influence of the settlement of the crowns, the casing frame slides along these guides, eliminating pressure on the window block from the side of the logs.
In addition to protecting window blocks from deformation, the frame (casing) reliably strengthens the ends of the openings and prevents the crowns from falling out under their own weight.
The frame of window openings can be made in two design options: U-shaped (into a deck) or T-shaped (into a tenon).
U-shaped pigtail is performed in this order. A window sill board is placed in the opening and secured to the lower crown with self-tapping screws. Spikes are cut out at the ends of a wooden wall with a chainsaw. The side parts of the casing frame are installed on them, in which grooves are cut according to the size of the tenons. Vertical movement of the logs occurs along these grooves under the influence of shrinkage.
All contact surfaces of the frame with the walls are treated with an antiseptic solution, and a soft compressible insulation is laid between the groove and the tenon (it is prohibited to use polyurethane foam!)
The insulation (flax batting) is fixed to the wood using a construction stapler.
The last stage of installation of the casing frame (frame) in a timber house is the installation of a topper - a board with a thickness of at least 50 mm. It is placed opposite the side posts and attached to them using self-tapping screws.
Installation of a T-shaped pigtail has no fundamental differences from the installation of a U-shaped one. The difference is that not a tenon, but a groove is cut out at the end of the window opening. A groove is also selected on the sides of the casing frame and a wooden block is glued into it, thus obtaining a T-shaped profile of the required size.
The glued block plays the role of a stiffener, ensuring that the geometry of the frame remains unchanged and the wall shrinks evenly.
The casing of T-type windows requires installers to have precise markings, correct fitting of elements and knowledge of important assembly nuances. In particular, if the block is not glued into the side of the frame, but simply screwed to it with self-tapping screws, there is a risk of this structure blowing and freezing. Therefore, anyone who wants to make a window frame with their own hands will do better with a U-shaped casing, as it is easier to manufacture and install.
How to make a window frame correctly You will be prompted by a step-by-step guide that can be found on the Internet or a video that specialized companies post online. However, when assembling such a structure with your own hands, questions always arise. Therefore, we will say a few words about the correct sequence of its installation.
First you need to install a window sill board in the opening, then place one of the side posts on the insulated end tenon, then the top board and the second side post.
It will be useful for owners of log houses in which the processes of drying and shrinking the walls have already been completed to know that the frame in such houses must also be installed before installing wooden or plastic windows.
The fact is that the completion of shrinkage does not mean a complete cessation of the process of changing the size of logs and timber. It is always necessary to take into account the significant seasonal deformations of this material, which without installing the casing will cause distortion and jamming of the windows.
A strong argument for doing window frames yourself with the budget option of building a wooden house, the cost of such work is quite high.
Thus, in the price lists of companies that perform window framing, the cost of this work for a timber house (with cutting and preparation of openings) is 2500-3000 rubles per opening.
For a log house made of profiled timber, it is estimated at 3,800 to 4,900 rubles, and for log houses made of rounded logs, installation of casing will cost the customer 5,000 to 5,700 rubles, excluding the price of the material.
Some contractors price their work on installing window frames in linear meters, although when converted to one window opening, the price turns out to be approximately the same as we indicated above.
Useful video
Based on the results of reading all the topics about the casing (casing) on this network resource, I collected my observations into a kind of FAQ (maybe it will be useful for someone, so as not to waste extra time):
Why is a pigtail needed?
1. The frame holds the side walls of the frame in the opening from lateral displacement due to the tenon along the entire length of the sidewall.
2. The frame allows the frame to move vertically relative to the window opening during shrinkage during the initial shrinkage of the frame (which almost completely ends after 10 years); Also, during the life of the log house, the tree is subject to minor expansion. If a window (door) is firmly glued onto the foam into an opening in a log house, at best it will tear off the foam/and most likely break the window.
For the same purpose, a shrinkage gap is left above the top. For a one-story house 6-7 cm, for a two-story house they recommend 10 cm. (I did 5 cm for myself, because the log house has stood for a year and will be caulked, which will raise it a little)
What types of pigtails are there?
Finish – when all elements are planed/sanded and remain visible, that is, not covered by finishing. This type of window frame is installed in houses made of polished timber/round timber.
Roughing - when the entire opening is then covered with finishing. Accordingly, there is no need to plan/sand the casing material.
What types of pigtail designs are there?
The pigtail will have sidewalls for any design. (At the same time, there are difficult options for combined (located side by side) windows/doors, in which it is advisable to make adjacent sidewalls on a sliding block)
There are options:
With the top and the bottom;
With apex, the sides are cut into the bottom log;
And sometimes the sidewalls are cut into both the lower and upper logs - but I haven’t seen such designs here on the forum (in my opinion, this is not a very good option).
What is a quarter and its dimensions?
A quarter is a recess (reverse quarter) or protrusion (straight quarter) on the frame of the frame, which overlaps the window frame by 1 cm.
Reverse quarter - the window is inserted from the outside, the width of the opening is the width of the window frame, the depth is 3 cm (1 cm for the ceiling, 2 cm for foaming the window).
Straight quarter - the window is inserted from the inside of the house and rests against a 3 cm side. Moreover, the side can be cut out of solid wood (which is a chore with a wide frame frame), glued or nailed.
The opinion of window installers is that a quarter is not needed in principle for rough casing.
Opinion from the forum - a quarter is needed, because the foam can move away from the wood and the window will be blown out.
What material is the pigtail made of?
There is a P-pipe and T-pipe option. For finishing casing, the P-option is more popular, since the casing is thicker/more solid. There is an opinion that the T-variant is more convenient to caulk
Sidewalls are made: from solid wood; the board is screwed/glued to the embedded block (in the case of a T-frame) or two bars are screwed to the board (P-frame); There are glued, factory-made options (see Shuvoe).
The massif is usually taken 100 or 150 mm thick, the prefabricated version is a 50 mm board. Width – according to the thickness of the wall.
The general recommendation is that the material should be dried (up to six months of storage in the summer; sawn pieces dry faster). For obvious reasons, the presence of cracks is undesirable for finishing casing. There are different opinions on how to dry the material.
Many people make nizhnik from larch, because it rots first.
Everywhere jute or tow is laid in the grooves; in this forum it is more recommended to put jute in the groove above the top. There are options for laying mines on the Internet. cotton wool, it must be covered with steam/hydro insulation on both sides.
Installation features.
In a log house, the lower part is installed on sawn half-logs.
Treat casing elements and opening with antiseptic.
Some people make a wind spike under the lower part (see pictures from Shuvoe). But there are opinions that it is unnecessary and even harmful, because it causes unnecessary accumulation of moisture vapor under the bottom.
Locks must be made at the corners of the casing that are “not pierced by a spoke,” that is, they prevent the through passage of air through the entire thickness of the casing.
They make both very sophisticated locks and very simple tenon/groove locks. There are opinions that there is not much point in complex locks, since a single tenon/groove “cannot be pierced by a knitting needle.”
A simple tenon/groove for the tops can be made with a reduced tenon on one side (from the inside), so that when installing the top you do not have to lift it to its full thickness above the sidewalls (it should be clear in the pictures below; this is relevant, for example, if the top is 100 mm thick mm, and the shrinkage gap is planned to be only 50 mm).
How much insulation and groove/tenon width
To do or not to do a quarter
Album wyat-80 with examples
Should I order casing or do it myself?
Purely in my case - most of the teams, which I found not very far from my construction site, have a simple and quick approach: simpler locks or no need at all, why saw an array when it’s faster to screw a board to a block with screws, why lower - we never do it and so everything costs, etc. If you make it to my requirements, the price tag doubles.
In general, I decided to do it myself. Moreover, all the basic tools for casing are there: chainsaw, parquet, hacksaws, chisels. There is no milling cutter, but I don’t need one.
Yes, it’s very convenient to make drawings for a pigtail in SketchUp from Google. After watching a couple of lessons on the internet, you can master the program in half an hour or an hour, at least enough skills to draw a pigtail.
And a couple of observations:
When choosing a casing design for self-production, think about how it is more convenient for you to work in terms of the sequence of operations: sawing a tenon with a parquet for T or making a cut P with a parquet/chisel/milling cutter, sawing/hollowing locks, etc. And some even use only a chainsaw operate;
It is advisable to have blanks for casing made of solid wood that are even and have the correct geometric shape, otherwise accuracy will suffer when cutting grooves/tenons
P.S. Don’t criticize me too much for the text, I was able to spend exactly as much time as I had; This is the first time in my life I’ve come across the topic of bugs, thanks to this forum - I decided to redo for the builders what they “messed up”.
#863 IPaltus, 10/14/15A wooden house or bathhouse changes in size all the time - it either “sits down” a little, then rises again. Therefore, simply taking and rigidly fastening windows and doors into the openings will not work: either the frames will bend or the walls will “hang” and will not be able to sit down when they dry out. To prevent this from happening, a wooden casing (casing or casing) is installed in the opening, which is held in place only by friction. It is already possible to attach a window or door frame to the elements of this box.
First, let's look at the casing profiles. Fixation due to friction is ensured by a simple tongue-and-groove lock. In one case, a tenon is made on the logs/beam of the opening, in the other, a groove is cut out.
If your bathhouse is wooden - a frame made of logs or timber, then the technology for installing windows and doors will be exactly the same as in the house. No difference. So everything described applies to the bathhouse.
Monolithic casing boxes
The counter part is often made from a solid wooden beam. They are also called monolithic or finishing. Depending on whether the groove is cut or a tenon, the mating part is made U- or T-shaped. Please note that when installing windows or doors, the fasteners should not go into the beam/log of the wall. To ensure proper reliability, the frames are mounted in the “thickest” parts of the casing.
The casing is made of timber, in which a groove is selected or a tenon is cut. Accordingly, casing/edge profiles are U- or T-shaped The material for the casing is monolithic or laminated veneer lumber. The use of laminated veneer lumber in bathhouses is not recommended: when using non-moisture resistant glue (and this usually happens), constant changes in humidity cause the glue to break down and the timber to crumble. Therefore, it is better to use monolithic timber of the required size. Just note that the timber must be dry - no more than 12% humidity. If it's wet, it will crack or warp. Order chamber-drying timber of the required size from the sawmill, or dry it yourself in the shade in a draft for 4-6 months.
This type of casing is called monolithic or capital. You can already attach a window or door frame to it. If the windows/doors are plastic, the “face” of the casing can be left flat. If you plan to install wooden products, choose a quarter for them.
Which of these two casings/pipelines is considered the best? When done correctly, both perform their tasks normally. Everyone chooses what is easier for them to do.
How to make a tenon on an opening
There are two options - first cut a tenon in the doorway, then make a casing block under it. The second option is to mark the tenon along the finished groove. In any case, markings are applied first.
The width and depth of the tenon should be 4-5 mm less than the dimensions of the groove. The casing is “planted” on the insulation, so space is required for it. The width is marked at the end of the logs/beams, the depth - on the side surface of the walls. When marking, it is important to maintain the verticality of the lines.
Next, take a circular saw or chain saw and make cuts according to the marks. In this case, it is important to maintain the required cutting depth on the side surfaces and not cut off the tenon completely. If you are not very good with a chain saw, it is better to use a circular saw - you won’t be able to cut very deep there.
For an example of the formation of a spike, see the video.
Making a groove in the opening
It’s safer to make a groove: even if the cuts are too deep, you don’t have to remove the entire core; in extreme cases, you’ll make the tenon on the post larger.
Everything is simpler here: you mark the width of the groove at the end. In this case, it is 4-5 mm larger than the groove on the casing/pipe. Make two cuts and remove the middle between them. There are virtuosos who do this with a chain saw, but mostly they work with an axe, then they work part-time with a chisel.
Manufacturing of casing
The casing consists of two sidewalls (side posts), a top - the top board and a window sill or threshold (also called a bottom). It must be said that the lower part is not always present: it is often not made in interior doors. In some cases (when installing PVC windows, for example), they do not make a window sill, but simply a lower embedded board, to which a “standard” window sill is then attached.
Also note that the top does not rest against the top edge of the window or door opening. There remains a gap of 5-7 cm between them - for shrinkage of the log house. This gap is then filled with insulation and covered with platbands and finishing materials.
The most questions arise when forming the locks necessary for joining parts of the casing. These elements are especially difficult if a quarter sample is required. It’s difficult to explain in words, let’s provide drawings. Take a look at them and maybe you’ll understand what’s what. But the final understanding will come in the process: when you put the bottom and attach the side posts. They are outlined with a pencil, then gradually cut out. In this process, it is important not to cut off the excess - it won’t be possible to grow it and there will be unsightly gaps.
Before installing the casing, the window/door opening is treated with an antiseptic. Then two layers of insulation are laid. The structure is “dressed” on it. The procedure for assembling the casing on the windows is as follows:
- The lower part is installed.
- Place two side panels and check that the locks match accurately. You hit it well on the sides.
- Place the top. Often it “doesn’t fit” - the racks are closer than necessary. Don't take up the saw right away. Take spacers of the length that the opening should be, and with their help bring the window to the required dimensions. First, place it diagonally, then, knocking it out, straighten it out. The sidewalls crush the insulation and occupy the required position. After which the apex falls into place.
Rough casing or embedded block
One of the varieties of piping, when a groove is cut into the opening, is inserted into an embedded block. It differs from a monolith in that it consists of two parts - the actual embedded block, which is inserted into the tenon, and a separate casing board. The casing board is attached to the embedded beam, and the door frame can already be attached to it (it can also be attached directly to the embedded beam).
Please note that the embedding block and the tenon under it are made a little larger than in a monolith. This is necessary to make the fastening more reliable. When fixing windows/doors, fasteners must be chosen so that they do not go into the wall.
Of course, this option is much easier to implement. But they don’t really like it: its reliability is still much lower than that of a monolith. But it can also be used for light doors and any windows. Another possible use is as a temporary option only for the period of shrinkage after the openings have been cut out and the frame has been left to dry. If the openings are not secured, the walls may twist. In this case, embedded timber is an excellent solution.
A groove is cut out into which the timber is driven. It is no longer held in place by anything - no nails, no self-tapping screws. Photo report on the production of the finishing pigtail
The work was carried out in a log house that had been standing for a year. We used purchased kiln-drying timber and the remnants of profiled construction, which had been drying along with the house for a year. The casing is monolithic U-shaped. The width of the tenon was approximately 45 mm. This distance remains if you make a cut with a circular saw on both sides of the wall. In order not to modify it later with a chain saw, it was decided to make the tenon wider. Its height is 35 mm. The spike under the bottom/window sill is 1 cm high. Its task is to prevent a draft from occurring.
We start by preparing the openings. First, cuts were made in the side planes of the walls using a circular saw. There were no problems with vertical cutting, but when cutting horizontally, the saw kept trying to go up and down. Be careful in this part.
Then we take a chain saw and modify the tenon. This is the most responsible and delicate work. We make the first pass from top to bottom. Its depth is only 1-2 cm. All subsequent ones are from bottom to top, gradually increasing the depth. In order not to mess up, we used a step-by-step algorithm: first we made the cut with a circular saw, stepped back 0.5-1 centimeter from the cut, cut it with a chain saw, and brought it to the required depth with a grinder and a plane. Long, but reliable.
The opening is ready. Let's start making the casing. The first thing we do is the bottom-window sill. We make a groove in it with a depth of 10*45 mm. Also, do not forget about the protrusions: the window sill must “fit” onto the wall.
Now we make the sides. They are made of 200*100 mm timber. It was adjusted to size and polished. The groove was formed using a milling cutter. It could have been done with a circular saw - it would have been faster, but less accurate.
After using a circular saw, a quarter is made - its size is 70-30 mm.
Next you need to cut out the locks. On the sides, those that go to the bottom, are simple. All you need to do is cut off 20-40 mm on three sides. If, like me, there is a quarter, then on this side we cut out less to the depth of the quarter, i.e. cut out 10 mm (40 mm - 30 mm = 10 mm). Now the spike is ready.
Next, we place it on the lower part, trace the outline with a pencil, and remove all excess. The castle is ready. Having installed everything in place, we see quite decent gaps. Now the task is to bring them to a minimum through gradual adjustment. The main thing here is not to cut off the excess, since it is impossible to increase it. Therefore, little by little we polish and try on, polish and try on.
When the bottom locks are ready and adjusted, you can cut the sides. They should not reach the top of the opening by 6 cm. This is how we cut it.
We make the top itself in the same way as the side posts, then cut out a quarter of it. You'll have to tinker with the lock. There are two conditions:
- The distance at the top should be the same as at the bottom. We adjust all the dimensions of the spike based on this postulate.
- Then we also outline it, but the shape here is much more complicated. It is advisable to cut it so that there are no through connections, so that air does not have the opportunity to freely enter from the street.
That's why we make stepped cuts.
When the mold is ready, the fitting begins again by sanding. We work gradually, slowly. When the desired result is achieved, we disassemble the box, sand it, and round the edges. In general, we bring beauty.
After sanding, we cover all parts (including openings) with antiseptics. After drying, the casing elements can be painted in the required color. In any case, you can go through the paint once.
While everything is drying, we place jute tape in the opening. There is no tape covering the entire width of the casing; it was laid in two parts with an overlap in the tenon area. Apply a layer of sealant on top of the insulation.
First, they laid the bottom (it was never possible to install it on jute - it was torn off during installation, but the voids were filled later). The sides sat down, but with difficulty. But the top part didn't fit at all.
We take the spacer, first set it obliquely, then use a hammer to make it more horizontal. The sides are moving little by little. As a result of these manipulations, the upper part also fell into place.
After installation, the spacers “settled” and the upper part of the casing To prevent it from moving, we install wedges. They are removed after installing window or door blocks. This is what happened as a result.
