The desire of designers to improve the appearance of toilet bowls, to create stylish bathrooms has contributed to the popularization of block and frame structures with a hinged bowl.

The installation itself is not cheap, and you will have to pay extra for its installation. Therefore, many home craftsmen hone plumbing skills and carry out installation work on their own. Agree, it would be nice to save money by attaching the toilet to the installation with your own hands?

We will help you with this issue. In the article, we describe in detail the device, the principle of operation and types of structures, and also give step by step technology and photo instructions for installing the toilet.

If the appearance of the external elements of the installation depends only on the designer's imagination, then the device of its internal structure can be divided into 2 options: frame and block.

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The frame of the drain button is latched and can be easily removed. There is a hole under it for supplying a water supply hose with a compact tap. Within this "mounting" window on the front wall of the tank there is a and, which is unscrewed from the tank by hand and repaired without dismantling the box.

Myth number 3... A hanging toilet takes up a minimum of space.

Block and frame installations require an additional 20-25 cm of bathroom space. Therefore, these designs take up even more space than a floor-standing toilet. The only way to reduce the space is to locate the installation in a wall niche.

Myth number 4... There are no spare parts for block installations.

The sizes of components are standardized by most manufacturers, because repairable models have priority when buying. In plumbing stores, picking up a broken part is not difficult. In addition, you can do it yourself.

Step-by-step installation of the installation and the toilet

It is not difficult to install a plumbing installation yourself. The main danger is the leakage of the joint sewer pipe and the toilet pipe after final installation.

To avoid such problems, you must follow all the rules. step by step installation installations. Next, we will consider the installation diagrams of toilets with various designs.

Required tools

To carry out the installation of the installation and attaching the toilet to it, the following tools and materials are needed:

1. Screwdriver.
2. Adjustable wrench.
3. Hammer drill with drills.
4. Pliers.
5. Dowels and bolts.
6. A hammer.
7. Level.
8. Roulette with a marker.
9. Silicone.

A minimum of tools and materials are listed that will come in handy when installing the installation itself. When installing the box, other devices are needed, but it is better to entrust this work to professionals.

Installing a block installation

There are two ways to install a block installation:

1. In a specially prepared niche in the wall.
2. On a concrete slab, which is then sewn up with plasterboard.

Regardless of the type of installation, the list of steps for assembling the installation remains the same.

Step one... Drawing of markings in the bathroom. In small narrow rooms the toilet is installed along its axis, and in large ones, it is better to place the bowl along the drain axis.

First, you need to draw a line with a marker or chalk from the corner to the corner of the room along the wall where the installation is planned. Then, along the axis of the installation of the bowl, it is necessary to draw a line perpendicular to the first, using a building corner.

Step two... Formation of anchorage points. In accordance with the intended axis of the bowl installation, the fixation points of the block structure are determined. If the axis of the bowl and the wall are skewed, wooden or plastic spacers can be placed under the mounts to achieve an angle of 90 degrees.

In loose concrete slabs, preference is given to fastening with dowels, which provide the maximum contact area of ​​the fastener with the wall

It is imperative to center the location of the plugs relative to the middle of the toilet drain hole. If the distance between the attachment points of the block is 60 cm, then each hole for the dowel should be drilled at a distance of 30 cm from the axis of the bowl.

After marking, it is necessary to drill holes with a drill and insert the fasteners supplied with the product into them.

Step three... Fixing the block structure. The drain tank is screwed or anchored to the wall. After that, a water hose is supplied to the structure, and nozzles are attached, which will dock with the toilet bowl.

Inside the "mounting" window, there is usually a supplied flexible hose, into which water is supplied through an adapter with a tap

Step four... Screwing in the support pins of the bowl. After fixing the block mechanism, the toilet bowl is attached to it. Metal rods are inserted into the holes for its attachment and the places of their attachment on the wall are determined so that the height of the toilet seat is 40-48 cm.

The rods are made of ultra-strong rigid steel and can withstand a load of up to 450 kg without deformation. Change their location later without dismantling decorative box will not work

After that, the toilet is removed, and holes are drilled in the concrete slab for the rods with a drill, which are then fixed in the wall with fasteners.

Step five... Sewer drain installation. The toilet bowl is hung on the support pins and a pipe for draining the water from the tank is inserted into it. After that, the sewerage scheme is determined and installed with rigid fixation of the 110-mm outlet pipe.

Rigid fixation of the sewer line is required, because when installing the toilet bowl, the pipe should not change its position

Step six... Sheathing of block installation and installation of a toilet bowl. After installing the sewerage, the toilet bowl is removed and the decorative sheathing of the entire sanitary structure with tiles or moisture-resistant plasterboard begins.

The drain button and its frame are installed last. But the operation of the drainage mechanism should be tested only after the sealant has dried at the sewer joint.

When the trimming work is completed, the drain button is mounted, and the bowl is pushed onto the drain pipes and support metal pins. After that, the toilet is attached to the wall with nuts.

Instead of sheathing the drain hole of the block structure, support rods and sewers, they are sometimes filled with concrete.

When mixing concrete for pouring, it is necessary to buy only certified materials, and also observe the technology, because the structure will experience heavy loads

For this, after the fifth step, a general wooden formwork is mounted around the indicated structures, and its internal volume is filled with concrete. In 5-7 days after pouring, the formwork is removed, and the toilet bowl is docked with the support pins rigidly fixed in concrete, sewer pipes and a tank drain.

Installation of a toilet bowl with a frame installation

The installation of a frame installation with a toilet bowl can be carried out in any place in the bathroom. Single-frame structures are attached simultaneously to the wall and the floor, while installations with a double frame can be installed in the middle of the room in a special partition.

The installation of both design options differs only in the place of attachment of the metal frame and the shape of the decorative cladding, therefore their installation will be considered within the framework of one step-by-step instruction.

Step one... Assembling the frame structure. Installation of the installation begins with the assembly of the metal frame. To compensate for unevenness in the floor and walls, retractable legs are provided in the frame structure. After adjusting the position of the frame according to the level, the legs are rigidly fixed in the required position.

There is a special mechanism for adjusting the distance between the wall and the frame. Fixing the position of the presser foot must be rigidly made to avoid possible skewing of the frame.

The installation is attached to the place of installation, and the marker marks the places in which it is necessary to drill holes for the dowels.

Step two... Installing the tank on a metal frame. The height of the water tank can also be adjusted, but not in all installation models. The recommended height of the release button is 1 m from the floor surface.

The height of the drain button is not critical for the operation of the mechanism, but surveys indicate that 100 cm is the best option

Based on this parameter, the level of the location of the drain tank inside the metal frame is selected. Fittings for draining water are mounted together with the tank.

Frame structures often have a height-adjustable horizontal metal strip. It has holes or clips for attaching the support rods of the toilet bowl, drain pipes for water from the tank and sewage system.

Step three... Sewerage installation. A 110 mm sewer pipe is laid to the frame.

Step four... Fastening the frame structure. Holes are drilled to secure the metal frame, and then it is screwed or anchored to the wall and floor at the designated points. The optimal distance from the frame to the wall is 140-195 mm.

It will not be possible to screw the frame close to the wall, because a 110 mm sewer pipe must still fit behind the metal legs

The sewer pipe is fixed to the frame using the available fasteners.

After the frame installation is completely assembled, it is necessary to make sure that the support height of the pins and nozzles is correctly adjusted. For this, a toilet bowl is hung on the structure.

Step five... Leak test. The water pipe is connected to the drain tank and the tap opens. After filling the tank, a test drain is performed. If there are no leaks, the toilet bowl is removed and the installation is covered.

Step six... Forming a box around a frame installation.

There are two ways to close the metal frame:

• sew up with drywall;
• overlay with bricks and tiles.

Before insulating the installation, it is necessary to close its branch pipes with plugs or plastic bags. For cladding, it is necessary to use a moisture-resistant plasterboard sheet with a thickness of 12.5 mm. The box will be a decorative element that does not bear the support load.

The front panel of the box must be reinforced at the back with a metal profile so that if you accidentally press on the drywall with your hand, it does not burst and fall

When covering, it is necessary to provide for the formation of holes for the nozzles and support pins of the toilet bowl in advance.

Step seven... Fastening the toilet bowl to the installation frame. You can proceed to the installation of the toilet bowl for the installation immediately after plastering and painting the plasterboard box. If the metal frame was lined with bricks and tiles, then the toilet should be placed on it 10 days after the end of the work.

Between the bowl and the wall, instead of silicone, you can put a 1-2 mm thick insulation gasket to prevent cracking ceramic coating at loads

Before putting the toilet bowl on the support pins, it is necessary to lubricate the rubber gaskets of the sewer pipes and the drain hole of the tank with silicone. Also, a layer of sealant is applied to the back wall of the toilet bowl at a distance of 5 mm from the edge along the entire perimeter of contact with the wall.

The bowl is fixed to the wall with two bolts screwed onto metal pins. After a day, you can make a test drain to check the operation of the entire installation.

Block and frame installations do not necessarily involve the installation of a hinged toilet bowl. It can be installed classically on the floor. The installation scheme for a floor-standing toilet differs from the above methods only in the location of the fasteners and the sewer pipe.

When installing the toilet on the floor, it is fixed both on the supporting horizontal rods and screwed to the floor. Bowl manufacturers choose the type of attachment based on the shape of the product.

When fixing the toilet to the floor, it is necessary to mark and drill two mounting holes in the floor tiles. After sheathing the installation with a box, the toilet bowl is mounted to the sewerage and cistern drain pipes, and then screwed to the floor using the existing fasteners.

After the final fixation of the toilet, it is necessary to coat the perimeter of the base with silicone sealant so that water and dirt do not get under the bowl.

It can be additionally used to connect the sewer pipe and the toilet bowl.

The frame must be bolted in at least 4 locations.

The water supply pipe must have a separate shut-off valve in an easily accessible place.

Following the proposed instructions will protect the apartment from flooding and prevent the need to dismantle the decorative box during the first years of the toilet.

Conclusions and useful video on the topic

Videos in a few minutes will allow you to put together in your head a complete puzzle of the assembly scheme of installations for the toilet. After viewing them, the step-by-step instructions described above will become clearer and more deliberate.

Frame installation assembly process:

Installing a block installation in a niche:

Fastening the toilet to the installation frame:

The proposed step-by-step instruction installation of a toilet bowl with frame and block installations fits into several hours of work, if you do not take into account the time for creating a decorative box.

The essence of the installation is reduced to an even and strong fastening of the frame, connecting the pipes and docking the toilet bowl with the drain unit. This can be done by every business person who knows how to handle the necessary tool.

Do you have practical skills in attaching a toilet to an installation? Share your own installation experience or ask questions about the topic of the article. The block for comments is located below.

Installation systems for wall-hung toilet bowls are structures that allow you to covertly install the device, in which only the toilet itself and the water drain panel will remain in sight. At the same time, the installation frame, cistern, pipes and connections will be hidden in the wall.

The toilet installation system, among other things, ensures that the wall-hung toilet is securely fastened, so that the sanitary fixture is capable of supporting a weight of up to 400 kg.

So, let's take a closer look at what such a system is, and what are the features of its installation.

Advantages and design of the installation system for a wall-hung toilet

The main advantage is its compactness. Compared to classic floor-standing toilets with bulky cisterns, the flush structure of the installation is about two times thinner, which allows it to be mounted in a wall sheathed with a frame-plasterboard system.

After installing the wall-mounted toilet, there is free space under it, which makes cleaning somewhat easier.

What the installation system for a wall-hung toilet consists of

To understand how to install the installation system and the toilet itself, you need to understand the structure of the system:

• The heart of most systems is a rigid steel frame... It is equipped with retractable bars for height adjustment and floor anchoring. In addition, the frame is equipped with studs for fixing the installation to the wall, a panel with threaded sockets. Bolts are screwed into these nests when securing the toilet bowl.
• In the upper part of the frame, a flat (compared to conventional) cistern is usually mounted... The cistern is usually made of plastic and is encased in styrofoam insulation to prevent condensation from forming on it.
  In the front of the tank, as a rule, there is a cutout for installing a push-button system for draining water. Through it, the tank is serviced and, if necessary, the defective parts are replaced.

• In the side and / or top of the tank there are holes for mounting an adapter, with which the system is connected to the water supply.
  The adapter is usually mounted in one of the indicated slots and, depending on the situation, can be reinstalled in another place.
• The tank has a valve that provides shut-off of the water supply, a flexible hose connecting the valve with a float shut-off valve, the valve itself, a drain metering mechanism, and overflow protection.
• A drain is connected to the tank for draining the water during flushing.

Toilet installation installation technology

Toilet installation system installation

Installation instructions for the installation system and wall hung toilet are as follows:

1. The installation of the system begins before the finishing works... The installation site is brought in in advance water pipe and a sewer outlet with a diameter of 110 mm.

Advice!
As in other cases, it is recommended to install the toilet as close as possible to the location of the sewer riser.

1. The frame is leveled in the vertical and horizontal planes, the adjustment is carried out by means of studs fastening to the wall and retractable rods.
2. The level of the hanging toilet bowl is adjusted in height. The frame is initially set to the lowest position. The optimal height is 42-47 cm from the level of the tiled floor.
3. Having set the appropriate level, they check the convenience of the location of the bowl by attaching the toilet bowl to the studs.
4. Once the frame has been exposed, it is secured to the floor and walls using the dowels and wrench screws provided.
5. Upon completion of fastening the frame to the tank, it is necessary to supply water. In this case, a pipe of almost any type is used, but it is a pipe, since a flexible liner is simply not suitable for this.
   The service life of the liner is on average no more than three years, which, given the lack of access to it after facing, is unacceptable. Inside the barrel, the valve must be in the closed position.

1. Further . Ideal option the alignment of the outlet and the outlet in the vertical direction is considered; in this case, it is sufficient to insert the outlet pipe into the throat of the outlet.
   However, you usually have to find different knee options. You can simplify the connection process by using corrugations.
2. To check the functionality of the system, the bowl of the wall-hung toilet bowl is re-baited, the water supply is opened, and after filling the tank, the water is drained.
   During normal operation, the systems go to the installation cladding, screwing in and locking the studs for attaching and holding the toilet bowl.

Installation cladding

Now we will consider the features of the cladding of the installation system for a wall-hung toilet.

They are as follows:

• Sheathing can be made from several types of materials, but the most in a simple way is the installation of double moisture-resistant drywall.
  With the help of this material, the front plane of the installation is sheathed, marking along ready-made template, usually found on the packaging or in the instructions for the system (or wall-hung toilet).
• The installation must be protected from all free sides.... Before attaching the drywall to the frame of the installation system, holes are pre-drilled in it or self-tapping screws with a drill tip are used.
  On the sides and top, you can provide an additional overlap from the frame rack of 3 cm or more, attach an ordinary wall profile to the wall and drywall and fix the sides and top on it.

• Before laying the tiles over the drywall, in the front cutout cistern install a restrictive plastic cuff, as well as a safety cover. There are notches on the cuff, according to which, at the end of finishing work, it is cut along the plane of the tile.
  The safety cover serves as a safety function, preventing dust and other foreign objects from getting inside the tank.

Features of mounting a wall-hung toilet and buttons for draining water

The rules for installing the toilet and the flush button for the installation system for the toilet are as follows:

• The final procedure must be carried out no earlier than 10 days after finishing the installation with tiles. The tile adhesive must dry thoroughly and gain strength, otherwise the tile may crack under load.
• Installing the toilet bowl is quite simple. The main thing is to accurately measure and strictly fit the connecting pipes that go to the installation from the toilet.
  There are two of them: one serves to drain water, the second is a sewer pipe.

Advice!
Mistakes in their connection should not be allowed, since they are not sold separately. Such parts are non-standard and are completed only with a wall-mounted toilet bowl set.

• Before installing the toilet bowl, PVC couplings are put on the studs and a shock-absorbing gasket is installed. Together with the nozzles, the bowl is put on the studs and squeezed with nuts, alternately tightening each of them until the toilet bowl “sits down” tightly in its place. After that, a control flush of water into the toilet is carried out and, after making sure that all the connections are tight, they proceed to the installation of the tank button.
• The button for the toilet bowl installation system is usually made as a separate unit and, depending on the manufacturer and type of wall-hung toilet, usually has different designs. For correct installation, it is recommended to carefully read the instructions for installing the button, which is attached to the set.
  Almost all manufacturers have this unit with parts that require maximum accuracy and care - these are pusher rods. They are cut to the size indicated in the instructions on the drawing.

At correct installation installation system, toilet and flush button, the system must be free of leaks, the flush button must be pressed effortlessly and smoothly. At the same time, the toilet bowl should not bend under the weight of the person sitting on it.

So, we figured out what the toilet installation systems are, examined what they consist of and how they are mounted. We hope that our instructions and recommendations will be useful to you. Easy repair for you!

The invention of drywall revolutionized finishing work. Plasticity, lightness, environmental friendliness, fire resistance and ease of installation provided the material with well-deserved popularity. Plasterboard in the country, in an apartment, in a production room will help you quickly and correctly make repairs with your own hands.

The plumbing installation system is a design that makes it possible to do hidden installation of appliances, when only the toilet bowl and the drain panel are in sight. Everything else - the frame, the cistern, the pipes and the eyeliner are hidden in the wall.

The plumbing installation system, in addition, guarantees a reliable fixing of the wall-hung toilet, thanks to which the device can withstand a load of up to 400 kg.

The main advantage of a wall-hung toilet is its compactness. Compared to the floor-standing analogue with a bulky cistern, the installation design is 2 times smaller, so it can be installed in a wall sheathed with gypsum board.

After such an installation of a wall-hung toilet, free space is retained under it, which makes cleaning easier.

The installation is covered with plasterboard using different materials, but the simplest of them is double GKLV.

In order to properly mount the installation with your own hands, you first need to check the health of the installation system. To do this, they bait the toilet bowl, open the valve, collect water into the tank and drain it.

If there is no leakage anywhere, you can safely proceed to the cladding:

1. Plasterboard installation starts from the front. The marking is carried out according to the template shown on the packaging from the suspended plumbing or in the instructions for the system or the toilet.
2. A restrictive collar and a protective cover that prevents foreign objects from entering the tank are installed in the front cutout of the tank. Now you can make the cladding.
3. Plasterboard should be used to sew up the installation on each free side.
4. First, holes must be drilled in the frame of the system (you can use self-tapping screws with a tip in the form of a drill), through which the casing is fixed. After laying to the frame of the system, fix the drywall with screws.
5. On the sides and on top, it is necessary to provide for an overlap from the frame rack by 3 cm or more, then a wall profile is attached to the wall and the gypsum board, on which the side fragments and the top are fixed.

How to sheathe a house inside

For plasterboarding the house with your own hands, you need to prepare tools and materials from the inside:

• profiles (ceiling and guides);
• suspensions for them;
• drywall sheets;
• scissors or grinder for metal;
• a knife for cutting drywall;
• screwdriver or screwdriver;
• screws and dowels;
• drill or hammer drill;
• marker, level, plumb line and tape measure.

A master class on plastering a house from the inside with drywall is as follows:

1. First, you need to make drawings of the view of the walls and ceiling, indicating the dimensions of the planes.
2. Then they prepare a calculation of the amount of gypsum board for cladding. When calculating, horizontal joints of the gypsum board should be avoided, it is best to arrange them in a checkerboard pattern.
3. Next, the walls, floor and ceiling are marked under the guide metal profiles. The plumb line and level must constantly monitor whether the structures are correctly positioned vertically and horizontally.
4. Using a grinder, the guide profiles are cut into the necessary parts, which must be fixed with dowels in increments of 60 cm.
5. In accordance with the plan, a guide profile is marked under the ceiling. To fix the ceiling profile, start from the wall.
6. After marking all vertical profiles on the floor, you need to project all marks on the ceiling. For control, you need a plumb line and a level.
7. Now the position of the suspensions is determined, with which the vertical profile is fixed to the wall. To do this, the ceiling profile must be placed in the guide, aligned with the marks on the ceiling and on the floor, and a suspension must be applied. There should be a gap of 80cm between the suspensions vertically. Holes are drilled with a perforator or drill, and suspensions are fixed in them with the help of dowels.
8. In the next step, vertical profiles are fixed to the hangers and guides. The center of the profile is aligned with the mark on the guide. Align the profile with the thread stretched horizontally.
9. You can proceed to fixing the horizontal profiles. They are fastened to pieces from the guides or to special fasteners - "crabs".
10. When the frame is fixed, you can plaster the house with plasterboard. At the first sheet, a thickening is cut off along the edge - it is placed in the corner.
11. Correctly position the first plasterboard sheet so that it covers half the width of the profile.
12. Fasten drywall with self-tapping screws at intervals of 15 cm at the edges and 20-30 cm in other places. So that the edges do not break off, the screws are screwed in with an indent.

In this way, all whole sheets are fixed, then inserts are cut out of the scraps and fixed.

It is simple to cut the gypsum board correctly: the master draws an incision line on the sheet and breaks it along it on the desktop or on the edge of the timber.

After the entire surface is sheathed, the seams and caps of the screws are putty with a special putty for working with drywall. The minimum width of the seams that remain when sheathing should be 5 mm.

How to sheathe a staircase

The craftsmen choose the plasterboard covering of stairs in houses where the steps are mounted so that the railings are built into the wall or a stair ledge or a span must be hidden in the interior.

In order to sheathe the stairs of the GKL house, at the first stage, a metal frame is prepared according to the dimensions of the future sheathing of the span.

When fastening the frame and gypsum board with screws, when cracks and irregularities appear, they must be eliminated immediately, in order to avoid deformation of the cladding.

The staircase (the outside of the staircase) is usually decorated with a balustrade. If the interior allows, you can do the cladding with your own hands and without a balustrade by closing it perforated corners and bottom and side.

To avoid the ingress of moisture on the stairs and the subsequent deformation of the gypsum board joints and inner corners glued with non-woven material.

If the steps are wooden or covered with laminate, drywall will help with additional sound insulation.

Durable material can withstand any decor - lamps, paintings, etc. Look advantageous "windows" - niches built into the staircase from the inside, where you can place accessories or a collection.

How to make a ledge

Tools and materials:

• aluminum profile;
• putty knife;
• drywall;
• drill;
• self-tapping screws;
• roulette;
• plumb line and level;
• pencil;
• Bulgarian;
• special glue;
• reinforcing tape;
• putty.

Step-by-step instruction:

1. How do you start a major renovation? Of course, from the design. First you need to choose a place and take measurements, taking into account the thickness of the frame and the gypsum board. If a niche is for household appliances in order to design it correctly, it is necessary to take into account the place for free air circulation and laying of communications.
2. Now they calculate the amount of material, purchasing it with a small margin.
3. They prepare a drawing of a niche on any scale and transfer the actual dimensions to the wall. Mark the place of attachment of the frame. Do not forget to design a place for cable, lighting and other communications.
4. Then you need to postpone the distance to the ledge and make markings on the floor for the profile and gypsum board.
5. Using a plumb line, the resulting markings are transferred to the ceiling. The frame is assembled from the profile, fixing the guides along the markings.
6. With a grinder, cut the profile into the necessary pieces and attach it with self-tapping screws to the vertical posts opposite the horizontal markings.
7. The base of the niche is mounted, connecting the wall with the vertical posts with a profile and checking the result with a level.
8. When the assembly of the frame is over, they proceed to sheathing it with plasterboard. They begin to put the sheets from the sidewalls, securing them with self-tapping screws.
9. Then the openings are measured again and pieces of gypsum board are cut out. Laying to the base wall of drywall can be fixed with special glue.
10. The rest of the parts are fixed on the front of the frame. After installation, they are finished. To hide the joints, you need to lay the reinforcing tape and cover it with putty. Then the serpyanka mesh is laid and dried. After drying, a second layer of putty and a decorative layer (wallpaper, paint) are applied.

Drywall master class (video)

The bathroom looks more spacious when the pipes, cistern and liners are hidden in a plasterboard box. Plasterboard cladding of the installation will provide stability and a beautiful appearance hanging toilet. You should carefully study which building equipment and material to choose, how to create and close the frame of the gypsum board.

How is the installation for a wall-hung toilet

The main advantage of plasterboard construction is the ability to leave only the toilet and the flush button outside the frame. The installation system for a wall hung toilet consists of 5 main elements: a metal frame, a cistern, mounting holes, a valve and a drainage outlet.

The metal frame is equipped with retractable bars for height adjustment. The studs on the frame are intended for fastening the installation to the bathroom wall. There is a panel with threaded sockets, into which you need to screw in bolts to fix the toilet bowl.

The difference between hanging toilets and conventional ones is a flat cistern. The base of the tank is made of plastic and placed in styrofoam insulation. This procedure helps to protect the plumbing from condensation. The drainage system is installed in the front of the cistern and is responsible for the functioning of the toilet.

The installation system is connected to the water supply through the hole for mounting the adapter. It is located on the side or on top of the cistern.

The main task of the valve is to shut off the water if necessary, dose the drain and prevent overflow.

The flush tap is attached to the cistern and flushes out the water when the toilet button is pressed.

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What material to sheathe the installation for the toilet

The installation box can be sheathed with plasterboard or gypsum fiber sheets. Builders give preference to finishing the installation with plasterboard, because this construction material is in an affordable price range and is versatile in use. Its characteristics:

• Environmental friendliness
• Plastic
• Fire resistance

Therefore, gypsum plasterboards are used in many areas of construction for repairs in the country or in an apartment.

Plasterboard sheathing is recommended to be covered ceramic tiles to further reduce the humidity level in the room. Install an electric fan in the bathroom to draw out humid air from the room, which will prevent the wall from deforming.

The choice of drywall for flashing the plumbing installation system

There are 3 types of drywall sheets available on the sales market, which differ in composition, functionality and cost.

Most a budget option- standard plasterboard in light gray color, it is used for stitching steel frames or ceilings. For rooms with high humidity, it is recommended to choose a moisture-resistant type of building material - GKLV.

GKLV contains additives that give the leaves a green color and protect against the formation of fungus and mold. There are also more expensive analogues - fire-resistant sheets of gray color with red markings. They are designed for rooms with an increased risk of fire.

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To cover the installation with plasterboard, choose building material in proven retail outlets that purchase goods from well-known manufacturers. On the construction sales market, you can find domestic and imported products:

• "Knauf"
• "Rigips"
• "Gyproc"
• "Lafarge"
• "Gypsopolymer"

When purchasing drywall, inspect what condition it is in. Building material is defective if the following is found on it:

• Curved bends
• Dents on the sheet
• Scratch based
• Damaged corners

How to sheathe a toilet installation with plasterboard

Before starting the casing of the installation, you should check its serviceability: install the toilet, then open the valve, and fill the tank with water. If you manage to drain the water, then the installation is operational.

Tools and building materials for firmware

In the process of fixing the plasterboard sheets, the base for the frame will be used - plasterboard sheets and the installation system itself. You will also need the following inventory:

• Roulette with marker
• Adjustable wrench
• Screwdriver
• Bolts and dowels
• Self-tapping screws
• A hammer
• Silicone
• Level
• Pliers
• Drill with drills

This list is formed on the basis of the main tools for working with the installation; in some cases, you may need other inventory for repairs. It is recommended to purchase bolts, screws or dowels with a margin in order to add the missing part if necessary.

Scaffolding the installation system

When all the necessary parts are available, you can create and fix the frame for the bathroom. Builders recommend adhering to a few tips that will tell you how to properly sew up the installation with drywall:

• Do the installation of the frame base in the same plane as the installation
• To form the frame, select the guide profile 27 by 28
• Sew the profile to the installation with metal-to-metal screws
• The groove of the profile must be directed towards the wall and ceiling, therefore it must be installed on top and on the sides of the installation
• Using the level, mark the limits where the wireframe ends
• The profile must be installed on the wall in such a way that the groove is directed inward

When the base for the frame is created, you need to install the cut profiles 27 by 60 into the finished base. From the scraps of profiles, you can cut fasteners that will help you install the profile to the wall.

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How to finish an installation with plasterboard

Further - fastening the drywall to the installation. It is necessary to sew up the installation with plasterboard sheets in 6 stages, after which you can start operating the installed plumbing. Consider the main steps that will tell you how to sheathe the installation with drywall:

1. Mark the building material according to the instructions for the suspended plumbing;
2. Attach the first drywall sheet to the front of the installation system;
3. Before proceeding with the lining, fasten the protective cover in the front cutout of the tank;
4. All free sides of the installation must be covered with plasterboard sheets;
5. Drill holes in the base frame that will connect the plasterboard plasterboard;
6. Connect the steel frame to the system and fix the gypsum board with screws.

After the installation has been sewn up with drywall, install a profile to the wall and the gypsum board to fix the top and side fragments.

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Thanks to the information on how to close the installation with drywall, what materials to choose for stitching, whether it is possible to fix the installation to drywall, how to create a frame, you have the opportunity to prepare for the renovation of the bathroom. If you follow the instructions correctly, then as a result you will get a spacious bathroom with properly working plumbing.

How to sheathe a toilet installation with plasterboard + video

Such a plumbing element as an installation fits perfectly into the concept of modern renovation. Many, according to an unspoken law, close all lines and communications from prying eyes, therefore, given the fact that the prices for creating an installation are acceptable, hidden cisterns began to be installed more often in household bathrooms.

But still, despite the fact that the installation of such a part is quite simple, not everyone knows how to sheathe an installation for a toilet with drywall, while some have difficulties, since the toilet should also be installed, which requires a solid foundation. In fact, there is nothing difficult in this, it is just necessary to adjust the finishing technology, as it will be used.

What is a toilet installation and what are its advantages over standard bowls? The point is in the device, since this design is a system hidden in the wall, which ensures the operation of the device, and only the bowl, which is attached to the wall, is externally visible. This element consists of a steel frame on which the cistern is attached, and it is additionally equipped with retractable bars that adjust the height, the outlet for the water drain and the panel for attaching the toilet bowl. All this can be easily placed in the space behind the wall.

This compactness is ensured by the shape and features of the cistern. The latter is flat, and its plastic case is enclosed in an insulating sheath in order to prevent the formation of condensation. Of the entire structure, on the outside, only a button remains for draining water from the container. In addition, this device has a margin of safety and is designed for a load of 4 centners!

What are the advantages of installing in a bathroom? The main advantage is compactness, since the structure itself is not small, and ensures the functionality of the device imperceptibly for others, and the toilet bowl is close to the wall. In addition to saving space, such an orientation in space helps to facilitate cleaning, since access to the decoration of the walls and floor is open. But to obtain such quality, all technological rules and regulations should be observed, as well as good material should be selected.

Plating process

Tools, materials

In order for the plasterboard installation to be hidden in the wall, the plasterboard finish, which is assembled on the basis of a metal profile frame, is ideal. For this reason, certain materials will be required, as well as a set of tools that is suitable for drywall work.

Drywall

Everyone knows that there are three types of drywall panels that should be used for surface finishing in different conditions. To decorate the walls in the bathroom, due to the specification of the room - high humidity, a special material is required that can withstand such influences. The ideal option would be to use a special type of material, namely moisture resistant drywall, which has a green color.

Note, that the peculiarity of the moisture-resistant material is that in addition to gypsum inside, antiseptic additives are used as a filler, which prevent the formation of mold and mildew at a high level of humidity, and also prevent the accumulation of water inside the skin layer.

With an additional layer of decoration (panels, decorative plaster, tile), the material receives excellent waterproof characteristics, and in terms of strength such a green drywall will not be inferior to other analogues.

Profiles

For assembling the frame on the wall for covering the toilet bowl with plasterboard, it is recommended to use only a metal profile with a good zinc coating, which has anti-corrosion properties. The use of wooden slats for assembling the base is not allowed, since the specifics of the room do not contribute to this (high level of humidity). Profiles are needed in two types - guides (marked with UD) and rack-mounted (marked with CD). Using Latin letters, you can mark products according to the designation system from Knauff, and there are also domestic designations with the abbreviation PN (guide profile), PP (ceiling profile ) and PS (rack-mount profile). For fastening the frame elements to the bearing wall and among themselves, hardware is used.

Fasteners

These materials can be divided into the following two groups:

• For fixing plasterboard sheathing.
• Assembly and assembly fasteners for the frame.

For the first case, special self-tapping screws are used for fastening drywall, the length of which is at least 1.8-2 cm and the thickness of 0.45 cm. Such parameters are required in order for the screwing of the tip to be at least 0.5 cm into the profile and with reliable fixation of the sheet. The screws must be sure to have an anti-corrosion coating, and the assembly of the frame will be done thanks to two types of fasteners - dowel nails and small screws for metal (fleas, bugs). The guides are the first to connect the base to the load-bearing walls. The second type of fasteners provides the connection of metal elements with each other.

Another element of the frame is a straight suspension. This is a metal plate with perforations, which can be additionally attached to the already assembled structure to the wall, due to which greater rigidity will be achieved. But before buying everything necessary materials, it is worth planning everything and making the markup of the future structure for hidden installation.

Frame installation for flush-mounted installation

First, it is worth completing all the rough finishing work, as well as checking how high-quality the communication lines are, since after the finishing is completed, full access will be possible after dismantling work for the structure of plasterboard sheets. When everything is done, you can start assembling the frame base for cladding the installation in drywall.

1. Usually on the wall on which the installation will be, there are communications, namely, water supply and sewerage. They must be hidden with a box. Because of this, it is best to hide the entire surface under the plasterboard trim. First, you should make a markup for the frame.
2. Plasterboard installation for a toilet bowl should be sheathed using fastening pins, so the sheathing must be made almost on the same level as the installation. When marking the lines for the guide profile on the ceiling and floor, the bead should be done so that the frame is located close to the device.
3. According to the mark, you can lay a guide profile, which will be rigidly fixed to the bearing surface when using dowel nails. For fasteners, holes should be drilled through the profile, which will have a pitch of 35-40 cm. After that, you can drive dowels into the holes.
4. The guides should also be fixed on the sides, and the fixation will be provided in the same way. Under the frame posts on the wall, you should fix straight suspensions of 3-4 pieces on each profile.
5. Install the frame racks vertically into the rails. Their number will be determined by the volume of GK sheets (at least 3 racks for each panel), while on one of them adjacent elements for cladding will be joined. The racks are fixed with bedbugs to the guides (2 self-tapping screws on each edge).
6. Also, straight suspensions are bent to the racks, which also need to be attached with bedbugs, and the excess ends should be cut off or bent inside the frame. After that, we lay cross rails from the CD profile between the racks, where you need to cut the side shelves to the fixing length. The installation of parts is also carried out at the expense of bedbugs.
7. To access such important areas as valves, hatches and others, a sighting hatch should be installed. Under it, in the frame, there will be cross members and posts made of a CD profile.

The finished base can be sheathed using drywall, but take into account some features. For a better understanding, watch the video of the installation of the frame.

How to sheathe drywall

In fact, the plasterboard cladding technology is almost the same as the standard, but there are some peculiarities. It is important to understand that when cladding hidden plumbing, a double layer of material should be used!

After the sheathing has been completed, finishing work can begin. In certain cases, it is possible to sew up the installation in the form of a box, which is made using frame technology.

Final finishing

The finished surfaces should be prepared for finishing work, especially if you plan to use a tile over drywall as a cladding.

• To begin with, you should close up the joints between the sheets of drywall. To do this, make a putty mixture with which you want to grease the gaps, and glue the serpyanka mesh on top. After that, such areas should be once again covered with a thin layer of plaster (0.1-0.2 cm).
• When the joints are dry, they need to be wiped off. The entire surface should be primed and plastered with a layer of gypsum mixture with a thickness of 0.1-0.2 cm.
• When everything is dry, we rub the plane with a float.

If the installation was made as a drywall box, then its edges should be additionally reinforced with corners (plaster). The finishing process for such a structure is the same as for wall decoration. such a scheme can be changed, but everything will depend on the conditions in which the installation was carried out, but it is desirable that all the nuances are planned, and then the installation and finishing of plumbing will not create problems for you during use.