The solution to this problem is simply necessary for a modern person, accustomed to enjoying all the benefits of civilization. It is no longer possible to refuse them today. Almost everything, from a simple light bulb to a variety of large and small household appliances, including power tools, requires power.

As for the independent production of electricity, for these purposes today technical devices have already been created and are being produced that are capable of converting the free energy of the natural environment to meet our basic needs for electricity.

Such (alternative) energy sources primarily include solar panels and produce electric current by converting the energy of solar radiation photons into it. Wind power plants, due to the rotation of the wind generator blades, convert the mechanical energy of the wind into electric current.

Both of these methods of generating electricity are by far the most environmentally friendly for the environment. They are relevant due to the fact that the quality and life expectancy of a person directly depend on the ecosystem in which he lives. And the cleanliness of the surrounding air is of no small importance here.

If you carefully study the disadvantages of centralized networks for supplying electricity to private homes, you will understand why generating your own electricity will be the most reasonable solution for you in most cases.

In relation to the Moscow region, the cheapest option for connecting to a centralized power line will cost approximately 50,000 rubles per 1 kilowatt (1 kW) of installed capacity, provided that the closest neighbors are already connected. This is the simplest solution to the problem, but it is only possible under ideal conditions.

Too often it happens that the capacity of the nearest substation does not allow you to provide everyone with electricity, and you may either be completely denied a connection or set a limit on the connected power. This is due to the fact that the degree of wear and tear of many substations today is high, and the appetites of cities and towns are constantly increasing due to the construction of new buildings, private houses, and the commissioning of various facilities.

Let us now name the additional costs of connecting to centralized networks if the village itself is not yet connected to the power line.

• It will be necessary to lay power lines directly to the village. The cost will be approximately from 300,000 rubles to 600,000 rubles per 1 kilometer. In fact, in most cases, it is necessary to lay a high-voltage line and install additional substations and distribution poles - here the cost will be higher.
• It may be necessary to create clearings for power lines (deforestation) - this is another item of expenses and approvals.
• It will be necessary to pay for the project, taxes, permits and examinations of various regulatory organizations.

To reduce your personal expenses as much as possible, you will need to collect funds from everyone who wants to connect with you, which can take a lot of time. Ultimately, the process of connecting to centralized power supply networks can take several years!

Judging by our experience and information from various sources, the average approximate cost of a centralized connection of a non-electrified suburban village to a newly built power line today averages from 500,000 to 700,000 rubles for each site.

In addition to the high cost of connection, you also need to consider your risks. In our memory, there have been cases when owners of houses or summer cottages that had been connected for a long time were simply disconnected from the power grid. Despite the fact that this is still a relatively rare phenomenon, there are still plenty of reasons for this.

You also need to remember that the cost of electricity is steadily increasing every year. And our country’s entry into the WTO could turn into a real disaster for private homeowners. Raising the price for each kilowatt-hour of electricity to the European level is not excluded...

About the features of autonomous power supply systems

Let's consider the main features and advantages of autonomous power supply systems.

• You can have your own power supply system completely ready for use within a few days.
• You gain financial independence from monopolistic energy companies and additional strategic security.
• You will no longer be inconvenienced by sudden power outages and long-term power outages caused by broken wires due to snowfalls, freezing rain, falling trees, or strong winds.
• You “receive electricity” for many years to come by purchasing ONLY equipment.
• You can get the most out of your 12V appliances by reducing the harmful emissions from AC wiring found in every home.
• It is also worth remembering that our systems are environmentally friendly.

By choosing an autonomous power supply system, you can accurately calculate your expenses, ensuring the operation of the most necessary household appliances, lighting, and power tools.

You have the opportunity to independently select the components that will make up an autonomous and environmentally friendly power plant. In the future, it is possible to increase the system's power as your home's energy consumption increases!

Calculation of solar power supply system

If you decide to provide yourself with autonomous electricity, having realized all the advantages of autonomous power supply systems, then carefully read the fundamental principles of the correct selection of components for your solar or wind-solar power supply system.

The calculation must be made taking into account whether your house is just a “dacha” for summer living or whether you plan to live in it all year round. It must be taken into account that in winter and summer, energy consumption will differ significantly due to the seasonal nature of the use of various household electrical consumers.

If you have a heating system installed that is not a classic Russian stove, then your electricity consumption during the heating season will be much higher due to the need to power the pumps of the water heating system (or fans in the air heating system) together with the boiler automation. In addition, in winter, home lighting will require longer operation.

Necessary parameters for calculation

When calculating energy consumption per day, you should sum up the average energy consumption per day for all electrical appliances in your home. Thus, we will obtain the first necessary parameter for calculating our autonomous energy system, expressed in kilowatt-hours (kWh). This is exactly the energy that our source (solar panels) must produce during the day to meet our daily needs for the “quantity” of electricity. Here we should also take into account the losses during charging/discharging of the energy storage system - lead-acid batteries.

For further calculations, we will need the maximum instantaneous power consumption of electrical appliances that can be turned on simultaneously in your home at a certain point in time. This value is expressed in watts (W) or kilowatts (kW). 1 kW = 1000 W. It should also be taken into account that when some household appliances are turned on, for example, an inexpensive pump, the energy consumption becomes several times greater than that declared by the manufacturer, due to the high starting currents that arise in the windings of the electric motor. In modern household appliances equipped with a “soft start” device, there is no such problem.

Having two parameters - the amount of average daily electricity consumed and the value of the peak required power, we can determine what equipment should be present in the power supply system to cover our needs.

The main source of environmentally friendly electricity in our system will be solar photovoltaic batteries (solar modules). For stationary systems, it is most correct to choose. Their exterior is protected by textured tempered glass, increasing the amount of sunlight they absorb. A reliable, fairly durable and sealed design allows such solar modules to be used in all weather conditions, year-round, for many years.

The most durable solar cells are those based on monocrystalline silicon. The special properties of single crystals make it possible to expect a service life of more than 20-30 years without a significant reduction in the amount of electricity generated.

Solar panels must generate the average daily consumed amount of electricity every day, plus 20-30% for energy losses when charging/discharging the battery system.

Charge controller

For efficient and “correct” charging of batteries from solar panels, charge controllers are used. , in contrast to the simpler one, allows you to increase the electricity production of a solar module by up to 30% under certain weather conditions. But, given the difference in price between these types of controllers (MPPT is more expensive), for a power plant with a low-power solar module, it is more advisable to spend the same money on purchasing a more powerful solar module. The economic effect in this case will be higher.

A controller with the MPPT function is recommended to be used for solar modules with a power of over 200 W, and also if you plan to increase the power of the solar array in the future, expecting to increase the maximum generated power above 200 W by purchasing additional solar modules.

For three years I had to live in a country house without a centralized power supply, and during this time I managed to establish an autonomous energy system that allows my family to live and work at any time of the year.

In modern life, many people strive to build country houses and, if possible, spend more time there. At the same time, the energy sector in the suburbs is developing poorly, equipment is in a very worn-out condition, wires are stolen, shutdowns for an indefinite period (as a rule, when it is most needed) have become a common occurrence.

The forecast for the development of the situation is most likely pessimistic - the situation will only get worse, and electricity will become more expensive...

For those who don't want to wait "by the sea of ​​weather", this material is addressed and the hope is to find like-minded people. Here are some thoughts and a description of what has been achieved.

The problem of autonomous power supply can be solved in two fundamentally different ways:

• installation constantly (when necessary) operating, which provides all electricity needs;
• creation of an integrated power supply system, which may include a power plant, but operating only when more power is needed or other energy sources are exhausted.

The first method has the advantage that it avoids solving many problems and makes it possible to use standard technical solutions, but it has several contraindications:

• you need a power plant that has a long service life, low fuel consumption, designed for round-the-clock operation in unattended mode, does not create radio interference, noise and vibration, and therefore is expensive (although some of these problems can be negated on your own);
• a fuel storage facility is required, and at the same time it is fireproof;
• To install a power plant, you need a special room, which allows you to partially hide the shortcomings of available power plants, i.e. having a good foundation, thick walls, exhaust ventilation, an exhaust pipe going into the sky;
• To eliminate unpleasant odors, it is advisable to install a sufficiently high exhaust pipe, but when used in winter, a problem will arise in that most of the pipe will not warm up above the dew point and, as a result, after the power plant is stopped, the water collected in the pipe will freeze and close pipe.

This problem can be solved by installing a drain valve at the bottom point of the pipe from which to drain the condensate before turning off the power plant and/or by ensuring thermal insulation of the entire pipe.

You can reduce fuel costs by switching the power plant from liquid fuel to gaseous fuel, which will simultaneously reduce the toxicity of exhaust gases, but this method is only applicable to four-stroke engines.

All of the above considerations were used when installing the AB-4 power plant, which is in many ways inferior to imported ones, but also has major advantages: low cost, undemanding operating conditions, long service life, available spare parts - it is based on an engine (or rather, 1/2 of it) from 30 – strong “Zaporozhets”. A car starter and battery can be easily mounted on the AB-4, resulting in a convenient power station that even a child can start. AB-4 was installed in an extension to the garage and part of the cooling air flow (it is air-cooled) is supplied to the garage in winter. The 3/4″ exhaust pipe is connected to the power station by a piece of corrugated stainless steel pipe, and a car muffler is mounted on the wall of the room in front of the pipe. Propane gas is used as fuel in 50 liter cylinders. The power of AB-4 is quite enough to operate any power tools, including electric welding. But it is not used all the time because... Despite all the tricks, the noise level is still noticeable, especially in the evening in summer, and in winter, when the windows and doors are closed, nothing can be heard in the house. In addition, in fact, such power is not needed all the time, and using a power plant practically at idle is very impractical - wear still occurs and efficiency tends to zero.

Therefore, I implemented a more complex option corresponding to the second method.

To begin with, some existing stereotypes were questioned:

1. The current should be variables. This statement was imposed by electrical equipment manufacturers at a time when the only way to change voltage was to use a transformer. Now that most devices have transformerless power supplies, it doesn’t matter whether they are powered by direct current or alternating current. The easiest way to check whether your device is suitable for DC power supply is to make sure that autovoltage is available or ask a specialist. Naturally, all incandescent lamps, electric heating devices and devices with commutator motors are perfect for direct current. Having carefully examined the existing household appliances, you will be convinced that problems arise only with asynchronous motors, fluorescent lamps, televisions (in terms of the kinescope demagnetization system) and refrigerators. All these problems are surmountable. And therefore, in my house I installed two electrical networks: direct and alternating current. Both are 220 volts. As a result, all lighting and those devices that were able to be adapted for direct current are connected to the first, and the rest - to the second and work only in the presence of alternating voltage, i.e. when the power plant is running. This scheme made it possible to use 12V rechargeable batteries with a capacity of 7 Ah from among those used in guaranteed power supply devices for computers to store electricity. There are two sets of 17 of them installed. Batteries of this type are maintenance-free, sealed, and are not afraid of complete discharge and freezing. They develop a current of up to 30 amperes, which at 220 volts gives very respectable power. The electricity stored in them is enough for me, with reasonable savings, for a couple of days. But still, I prefer to start the power plant once a day for two to three hours and recharge the battery. At the same time, you can perform many jobs that require alternating current.
2. Second misconception that the refrigerator must be electric. In fact, in the USSR, refrigerators powered by household gas - propane - were even mass-produced. Electric refrigerators of the absorption type were also made on their basis: “Morozko”, “Iney”, “Ladoga”, etc. The only difference was that instead of a miniature burner, an electric heater was installed. If you take such a refrigerator, remove the heating element from it, install the igniter from the water heater and lead the exhaust pipe through the hole where the mode switch is installed, you will get an excellent gas refrigerator that consumes about one 50 liter propane cylinder for two months of continuous operation. Naturally, you need to take the exhaust pipe outside and observe other fire safety measures.
3. Third misconception: Using DC-AC converters - inverters to power the entire network with alternating current - brings more problems than pleasure. This is due to the fact that the inverters currently produced are made, as a rule, with an increase in voltage from 12/24 volts to 220V. Consequently, energy will have to be stored in car batteries with all their disadvantages (Note solarhome: the author is not entirely right here - it is not at all necessary to use car batteries). Such inverters with sufficient power are extremely expensive and cannot handle an arbitrary load (for example, a refrigerator) (Note solarhome: also a controversial statement - now there are inverters for any purpose in a very wide price range), besides, no matter what they write in advertising brochures, their output is not sinusoidal voltage, but rectangular pulses, which many electric motors treat very poorly. (Note: solarhome: also a controversial statement - now there are inverters for any purpose in a very wide price range, and non-sinusoidal inverters are gradually becoming a thing of the past). And most importantly, in rural areas in an area of ​​​​uncertain television reception, even a slight level of interference created by the inverter deprives you of the opportunity to watch TV (and all your neighbors). Therefore, I had to abandon the use of inverters wherever possible, and if there was no other way, then install homemade transformerless inverters 220 - 220, working for one specific load, and not for the entire network. They are inexpensive and non-interfering.
4. The kinescope demagnetization system in modern televisions and computer monitors is not needed every day. These devices, like the computers themselves, work perfectly on direct current, and the demagnetization loop must be turned off by installing an additional toggle switch. It can be turned on when the TV is powered by alternating current and turned off when constant (Note solarhome: apparently, this problem is also practically a thing of the past, since televisions and monitors on kinescopes are practically no longer used - they have been replaced by liquid crystal monitors, also powered by constant voltage).

To get a final idea of ​​the created system, it must be supplemented with a solar battery. True, these parts require more work, but they still perform their function.

The wind generator charges the battery around the clock (when there is wind), so that by the weekend the battery is fully charged. The wind generator was manufactured completely independently, since everything that is offered by industry carries with it a desire for gigantism and is poorly adapted to life (Note: this is not the case now - you can find inexpensive and high-quality Chinese-made ones that are much more efficient than the carousel windmill made by the author of the article). Therefore, the wind wheel is made of a carousel type from fiberglass on epoxy resin and its dimensions are small - 1 * 1.5 m. Such a wheel can be manufactured and installed by any technically trained person. It does not create reflections of radio signals and noise. The installation location - the roof ridge - is the least accessible to outsiders and most accessible to the wind. In the future there will be several wheels standing next to each other. The small size of the wheel determines its low power, but also the low wind load on the rafters and the absence of vibrations. Of course, the power removed from the wheel is small - on average about 30 W, but this is on average - the power depends on the cube of the wind speed. Twice the wind speed - eight times the power. And we must not forget that the generator is not used for power, but only for charging the battery. A converted car generator is used as a generator, in which permanent magnets are installed instead of the excitation winding, and the stator winding is rewound with a thin wire. This makes it possible to obtain acceptable efficiency, because very significant power is not spent on excitation. The resulting voltage, which varies greatly depending on the wind speed, is rectified and converted to a voltage of 220 volts. The wind wheel is connected to the generator by a 1:5 step-up gearbox and this is a big drawback. I would like to remake the generator by installing more powerful “rare-earth” magnets in it and preferably increasing the number of poles, then you can get higher efficiency and efficient operation in very low winds without a gearbox. (note site - instead of a rotary-type turbine, it is better to use a Savonius type turbine, or a propeller - in the latter case, you can easily do without a gearbox and significantly increase the efficiency of using wind energy - almost 2 times)

A solar battery can complement a windmill well for the same purposes, but it still has the same problems: what is offered is very expensive and has low voltage. Experiments with a 12 volt low-power battery have shown that with a cloudless sky you can count on 0.1 ampere at 12 volts, which is quite enough if you install 20 pcs. such batteries, but where can I get them at a price that is reasonable from the buyer’s point of view? (approx. solarhome - since this article was written, the situation has changed radically - you can find any solar system at an affordable price)

The above considerations and the results of experiments show that with certain difficulties the problem can be solved even in artisanal conditions, you just need to break away from traditional ideas. Of course, these are not serial samples, but they have been doing their job for many years.

In conclusion, I would like to remind you that in the opinion of a large number of independent experts, and mine too, the situation in the energy sector will constantly become more complicated and a share of autonomy did not harm anyone.

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One of the most important elements among all engineering communications of a residential building is power supply. Nowadays, it is simply impossible to imagine a country cottage without electricity; with its help, all the benefits of civilization familiar to a city person, comfort and coziness, remain available.

The list of electrical equipment used in country houses is becoming more and more extensive. Now, in addition to the usual refrigerators, heaters, vacuum cleaners and lamps, providing electricity often requires well pumps, heated floors, air conditioners, electric saunas, heated swimming pools, outdoor landscape lamps and much more.

For the uninterrupted and safe operation of water supply, heating, household appliances and lighting systems, an exceptionally competent approach will be required in organizing the power supply to the home.

Planning and design

Drawing up detailed and technically verified project documentation will allow you to correctly calculate the required amount of materials, take into account absolutely all the nuances, and avoid a number of errors, which will be very difficult to correct without serious financial costs or delays in construction. This is not surprising, because the installation of electrical wiring begins at the stage of rough work, and ends after finishing with the installation of lamps and facades of sockets/switches.

Moreover, when constructing new buildings, in order to obtain permission to use electricity, the homeowner, in addition to submitting an application to the energy supply organization, must coordinate the electricity supply project, including with Energosbyt and Gosenergonadzor.

In any case, you cannot start electrical work without planning. It is imperative to first take into account the amount of electrical equipment that will be used, its types, specifications, and power. Based on these data, the required load can be calculated. Calculating the total power consumption is quite simple. It is necessary to add up the rated power of all devices and equipment that you have and that you plan to connect in the future, and multiply the resulting figure by 0.7 - the “simultaneity coefficient”. Of course, it is better to have some power reserve.

Connecting to public networks

In most cases, connection to power lines is made by air using an insulated cable or wire in a non-flammable sheath, often laid on a steel cable. Select input wires and cables in accordance with the PEU. To connect a house over the ground, an armored cable is used, the characteristics of which have been approved by Energonadzor.

Using special hooks with insulators, brackets or pipe stands, overhead inlet lines are attached to the permanent structures of the house in the immediate vicinity of the electricity meter.

A through hole is made in the wall of the house for power supply. A metal or plastic sleeve pipe is pre-inserted into this hole.

Most often, the input for a country house or garden house is carried out using a single-phase circuit. However, if you need to power a large number of powerful household appliances and the energy consumption significantly exceeds 4 kW per hour, then it is advisable to use a three-phase line with three linear and one neutral wire.

Sometimes you may encounter a limitation of the power allocated for specific houses (dacha villages no more than 3 kW, in populated areas up to 6 kW, new cottage towns about 15-25 kW). If the demand exceeds this limit, a way out of the situation may be the use of special automation, which, according to a given program, ensures the uninterrupted operation of the main consumers at the expense of the secondary ones.

Exceeding restrictions and restrictions leads to a drop in voltage in the general network and can cause an emergency power outage.

Grounding

According to all safety standards, a modern cottage must have a grounding circuit. It is recommended to use metal water pipes lying in the ground as “natural” grounding conductors; well casing pipes; reinforced concrete and metal structures of structures and buildings in contact with the ground.

Grounding is also made from a steel rod of round or rectangular cross-section with a thickness of 6 mm or more, an angle with a shelf thickness of 4 mm or more. Such rods should not be painted; it is better if they are galvanized. They are buried below the freezing depth of the soil, after which they are scalded with steel strips, onto which a copper conductor with a cross-section of at least 2.5 mm 2 is attached using a bolted connection, going to the main grounding bus in the electrical panel. Grounding resistance should not exceed 4 ohms.

In an electrical panel, protective conductors from each consumer are fixed to a common busbar. The grounding conductor must be equal in cross-section to the supply wire. Therefore, now they use three-core wires for wiring - ground, line, neutral.

Selecting the type and required cross-section of conductors

The performance and reliability of the entire network as a whole depends on the correct choice of the cross-section of the wires used for electrical wiring. The main criterion for calculating the cross-section of a wire is the total power of consumers supplied by a given conductor. It is also important under what temperature conditions the electrical network will be operated and whether the wiring will be external or hidden.

The main appropriate indicators for the cross-section of wires used in the power supply of private housing have long been determined by practicing electricians.

To organize the electrical connection at home, copper wires or cables with a cross-section of at least 6 mm 2 are used, as well as aluminum wires with a cross-section of at least 16 mm 2. To connect power sockets, three-core copper wires in double insulation with a cross-section of 2.5 mm 2 are used. For lighting, a cross section of 1 - 1.5 mm 2 is sufficient. Particularly powerful consumers, such as an electric hob, electric boiler, instantaneous water heater, oven, etc., are powered by a wire with a cross-section of 4 or more mm 2, which is laid directly to the electrical panel, bypassing distribution boxes.

If difficulties arise with accurately determining the load current, and finances allow it, you need to take wires or cables with a larger cross-section.

In houses built of wood or using frame technology, it is necessary to use special conductors that do not support combustion. For example, self-extinguishing wire NYM or VVGng.

In rooms with high air temperatures (sauna, bathhouse), a heat-resistant cable is used, the insulation of which can withstand up to 180 degrees.

Electrical shield

The electrical panel can be built-in or mounted. It is located on the main wall, as close as possible to the point of power input at a height of no more than 1700 mm from the floor.

Several groups of automatic circuit breakers, RCDs, batch switches, and switching buses (zero and ground) are installed in the distribution board. Often a meter is located in the electrical panel.

The size of the electrical cabinet is selected based on the number and type of elements that are placed in it. It is advisable to have some reserve space for additional machines in case you need to connect new consumers.

To simplify power distribution and unload the main electrical cabinet, it is recommended to install simplified panels for individual floors of a multi-story building, as well as for detached buildings. Small distribution boards are powered from the main one by wires with a cross-section of 4 mm 2 or more.

Protection devices

Circuit breakers are installed on a DIN rail in the switchboard and serve to protect electrical wiring from short circuits or overloads. They are used for certain groups of consumers, for specific high-power household appliances, or those requiring separate protection and shutdown devices (air conditioners, heated floors, Jacuzzis, etc.).

Vending machines are selected based on the power of household appliances and the consumers for which they are responsible. These devices break the circuit if the current strength specified for a particular machine is exceeded. The current characteristics of the circuit breakers must be less than the maximum permissible currents for the wiring cable. For a cable with a cross-section of 1.5 mm 2 the machine must be no more than 16 A, 2.5 mm 2 - 25 A, 4 mm 2 - 32 A, 6 mm 2 - 40 A.

If circuit breakers are responsible for the safety of electrical circuits and operate in critical situations, then residual current devices protect a person from electric shock and operate in a matter of seconds. The RCD compares the current flowing to the consumer with the current that returns from it and, if a difference is detected, immediately disconnects the problematic circuit.

The RCD is selected depending on the calculated leakage current and the planned load. To ensure human protection from electric shocks, devices with a shutdown threshold of 10 - 30 mA are used, for fire purposes - general RCDs for 100 - 300 mA, which are installed on all wiring. In general, residual current devices are installed on groups of consumers or individual devices (warm floors, washing machines, water heaters, etc.).

It is worth paying attention to the rated current of the device. If the RCD and the circuit breaker are in the same circuit in series, then the circuit breaker must be designed for a lower current than the residual current device. This is necessary to prevent the RCD from failing, since the machine operates with some delay.

Differential circuit breakers are available for sale - a kind of “two in one”, an automatic device and an RCD. The shield using electromechanical automatic devices becomes noticeably more compact, and the design is more reliable.

The use of RCDs in rooms with old wiring is often not justified. Due to dilapidated circuits, uncontrolled current leaks occur, which causes frequent “idle” trips of the RCD. If there is a need for protection, but it is not possible to change the wiring, you can install sockets with a built-in RCD, although they are, of course, very expensive.

Wiring

Wiring is carried out in accordance with the layout plan for sockets, switches, stationary devices and lighting elements.

The sockets of the house should be divided into groups of several pieces, all of them will be connected with a cable with a cross-section of 2.5 mm 2 from the junction box. Each such group will have its own machine (16 - 25 A), their number depends only on the area of ​​the house and how many sockets are planned. As a rule, the sockets of a certain room fall into one group, but not always.

In a three-phase network, the groups and load are distributed evenly to each line to maintain the symmetry of the phase voltage.

The lighting in each room is also switched in separate junction boxes. To adequately protect lamps from overloads, circuit breakers use from 3 to 10 amperes.

Cables running from the switchboard to distribution boxes and specific consumers are placed in a corrugated plastic or metal sleeve.

Recently, mainly only hidden wiring has been carried out in the grooves of mineral foundations and in the cavities of frame structures. The bulk of the wires are led along the ceilings, secured with special plastic clips and clamps. All electrical lines are easily hidden in the interceiling space of suspended or, for example, plasterboard ceilings. It is possible to install wiring in concrete screeds in compliance with certain technological standards.

The grooves along which conductors are lowered to sockets and switches must be strictly vertical; if necessary, they can only be turned at right angles. It is imperative to make a plan for the passage of wires in the walls, especially if there is a horizontal component of the path. This guarantees the safety of the conductor from interruption when installing any suspended structures.

It is also recommended to indicate the location of the branch boxes on the plan, because they will be puttied and covered with wallpaper. Boxes should be located below suspended ceilings; access to them should not be blocked by furniture or other massive structures. As a rule, they are installed in corridors above interior doors.

Wires entering distribution boxes are stripped of insulation and connected using welding, terminals, and PPE.

Low-current consumer cables (television, Internet cables, security, audio, telephone) require special attention. To avoid interference, they should not be laid in close proximity to power lines, especially in the same corrugation with outlet wires.

Sockets, switches, outputs

Before installation of electrical wiring begins, the location of sockets, switches and terminals must be precisely determined and indicated in the plan. The main requirement is that they be easily accessible and functional.

At the moment, the standard is to place switches at a height of 900 mm from the floor, sockets - in the region of 200 - 300 mm. On the working wall of the kitchen, sockets are installed at least 900 mm, since the countertop is located at a height of 850 mm. For some stationary consumers, sockets are installed at non-standard heights (LCD TVs, water heaters, appliances built into furniture).

Installation boxes for switches are placed at a distance of more than 100 mm from the rough doorways, on the side of the handles. This way they will not be blocked by cash or an open door leaf.

You should be very careful when calculating the total number of sockets, then in the future you won’t have to pile up dangerous multi-story structures from tees and extension cords.

We must not forget about street sockets, because very often it is simply necessary to connect some device on the street: an irrigation pump, a mini car wash, power tools, a radio, etc.

Naturally, sockets must be used with a grounding contact.

For bathrooms, socket mechanisms with a protective casing and plastic curtains covering the conductors are used. They are marked with a degree of protection IP44 or IP55. There are special safe sockets for children's rooms and for the street.

Some household appliances have terminals instead of plugs for connection (air conditioners, underfloor heating controls, hob, kitchen hood...). They are provided not with sockets, but with wire outlets from the wall of the required length and cross-section.

Backup power supply

In a private house, unlike a city apartment, it is possible to integrate emergency power sources into the power supply system. These can be diesel, gas, or gasoline generators. If there is a lack of capacity or failures in public networks, they are launched automatically or manually. Generators are located on prepared sites outside the premises in special enclosures or in ancillary buildings.

Alternative sources of electricity, such as wind generators and solar systems, are becoming increasingly widespread.

If the main power supply does not meet the standards (frequency deviations, voltage dips, high-frequency “noise” are common in suburban power networks), then the backup power supply system may include stabilizers, inverters - devices that improve the quality of electricity.

Turishchev Anton, rmnt.ru

Autonomous power supply at home is the provision of the required amount of electricity for a residential premises or suburban area without power interruptions and voltage surges. The question of creating an autonomous one on their own is relevant for people living far from city life.

This need may arise for a number of reasons:

• difficulty connecting to an existing power supply network;
• lack of stability of the supplied voltage;
• power outages.

The electricity necessary for normal life in a country house must be generated indefinitely, regardless of external factors. When choosing an energy source, preference should be given to a renewable option that is harmless to the environment and people.

Requirements for autonomous power supply

The autonomous power supply of a private home depends on the total power of electricity consumers and the nature of their “needs”. Most often, energy consumers include:

• home heating system;
• refrigeration equipment;
• conditioning;
• various large and small household appliances;
• pumping equipment that supplies water from a well or well.

Any type of electricity consumer has its own power. However, the requirements for the power supply network are the same for everyone. This is, first of all, the stability of the supplied voltage and its frequency. For many consumers, the sinusoidal shape of the alternating voltage is also important.

The next step is to determine the required total power that the autonomous power supply of the house must provide, as well as the technical characteristics of the power supply. Experts recommend overestimating the total power by 15-30%. This is done in order to ensure future growth in electricity consumption.

Next, you should decide on the technical characteristics on the basis of which the home’s autonomous power supply system (ASPS) will be built. They depend on what function the ESS will perform: a completely autonomous power supply or a backup one. If the system plays the role of a “safety net” for the supply of energy resources, it is necessary to establish the duration of the ESS operation during the absence of a centralized power supply.

An important factor when planning an autonomous power supply system for a private home is the financial capabilities of the homeowner. The project budget determines how expensive the equipment purchased will be, and how much of the work must be done by hand. It is known that doing the work yourself will cost much less than paying for the services of specialists brought in from outside. It is worth taking into account the availability of the necessary equipment and the skills to work with it, as well as the level of technical education of the homeowner.

Advantages

One of the main advantages of the ESS is the absence of charges for energy consumption. This is a significant saving in suburban living conditions. Autonomous power supply at home, unlike centralized power supply, does not have any social norms for energy consumption.

Depends on the correct calculation of the total power at the stage of system design and commissioning of the necessary equipment. Thanks to this, there is no risk of voltage surges or power outages. There is no need to fear that a sudden increase in power will damage your home appliances. The quality and quantity of electricity will be exactly what was originally planned, and not what the nearest substation can provide.

EPS equipment is quite reliable and rarely fails. This advantage is maintained with proper care and proper operation of all elements of the system.

Special programs are being developed that make it possible to sell excess electricity to the state. However, it is worth thinking about this in advance (at the design stage of the ESS). To do this, you will have to prepare permitting documentation that confirms that the equipment generates electricity of the declared quality and in a certain quantity.

Autonomous power supply at home has another undoubted advantage: complete independence. Whatever the cost of electricity consumed, the homeowner will always have his own energy resources.

Autonomous power supply for a country house: disadvantages

Despite many advantages, the EPS has a number of disadvantages, including not only expensive equipment, but also high costs of its operation. Before choosing devices and materials, you should carefully calculate everything so that the equipment does not break down before it has had time to pay for itself.

If the autonomous power supply of a private home has stopped functioning for some reason, you should not wait for an on-duty team of electricians from the local substation. You will have to take care of everything yourself - call specialists and pay for EPS repair services. To prevent this from happening and to ensure that the equipment lasts as long as possible, you should regularly invite specialists for routine inspection and maintenance of the home’s autonomous power supply.

Choosing an alternative energy source

The main problem of autonomous power supply at home is the choice of an alternative energy source, of which there are not so many at the moment. The following types are considered the most common:

• gasoline and diesel generators;
• solar panels;
• wind energy;
• hydropower;
• batteries.

Each of these sources has certain characteristics and features that should be read carefully.

Generators

This is the simplest and cheapest way to provide your home with the necessary amount of electricity. The device operates on the principle of burning fuel. If we are talking about autonomous power supply at home, the generator requires the creation of a sufficient base for storing fuel. The reserve must contain at least 200 liters of diesel fuel, gasoline or other flammable substances. In this case, they compare favorably. For their uninterrupted operation, a connection to a gas pipeline is required, and the problem with storing fuel automatically disappears.

Solar cells

Autonomous power supply at home is a fairly common phenomenon in Western countries. There are several methods for converting solar energy into electricity:

1. Photovoltaic cells - used to concentrate solar energy. With the help of special mirrors, the sun's rays are generated in a certain direction or heat the liquid passing through the steam turbines of an electric generator (heat engine).
2. Photo cells - the energy stored by photo cells on the roof of a house is direct current. In order for it to be used in the household, it must be converted to alternating current.

Do-it-yourself autonomous power supply at home using solar panels is the most effective and economical option. This equipment lasts about 40 years. However, depending on weather conditions, power supply may be interrupted during the day.

Wind energy

If weather conditions do not allow the use of solar panels, wind energy may be an alternative. It is taken through turbines located on high towers (from 3 m). Autonomous wind turbines convert energy using installed inverters. The main condition is the presence of constant wind at a speed of at least 14 km/h.

Hydropower

If there is a river or lake near your country house, you can use water energy sources. Hydroelectric power on a small scale is the most realistic and profitable option for autonomous power supply at home. The use of one turbine is not considered an environmentally or socially hazardous phenomenon. Microturbines are easy to operate and have a long service life.

Batteries

This option is not suitable for full power supply to the house. Batteries are used as emergency power supply or as a complement to alternative energy sources. The principle of operation is quite simple - as long as there is electricity in the network, the batteries are charged, if the power supply is interrupted, the batteries release energy through a special inverter.

Scheme of autonomous power supply for a house

The general scheme of the ESS consists of sequentially arranged elements:

1. The primary source of electricity - the above-described solar panels, generators operating on various types of fuel and others can be used.
2. Charger - converts the voltage from the primary source to the values ​​necessary to ensure normal operation of the battery.
3. Rechargeable battery - used to store and release energy.
4. Inverter - designed to create the required voltage.

All these elements are an integral part of the autonomous power supply of the house, and cannot work without each other.

EPS installation

It is quite simple to make an autonomous power supply at home with your own hands. To do this, you will need the following components: several batteries, which are connected in parallel to increase capacity, a charger and an inverter. When there is electricity in the network, the batteries accumulate energy from the charger. If the power goes out, the batteries provide power through an inverter.

Manufacturers offer a wide range of inverters designed for consumers with a certain power. The number of electrical appliances that can operate from this source depends on these indicators. The greater the number of equipment in the house, the greater the total battery capacity should be. If the capacity is incorrectly selected, the batteries will discharge faster.

These are the most common options for creating an autonomous power supply at home. The cost of such systems is quite high, especially when you consider the cost of fuel for generators. Free energy sources such as sun, wind and water are considered the most acceptable in this regard. Such equipment costs much more, but it quickly pays for itself and lasts for many years. It is quite simple to install the EPS with your own hands. You must strictly follow the instructions and adhere to the scheme.

Let's talk about the most important thing in autonomous and backup power supply

Modern man is accustomed to living with comfort and convenience. Indeed, why not use all the benefits of civilization that science gives us? What can you “extract from nature” for the benefit of your family if your house is located in nature, in what is called an “open field”? How realistically does autonomous power supply from renewable energy sources cover all needs?
Is it possible to count on real help in power supply for those who have a 220 V network, but want to have a backup power supply in case of quite likely disasters (both local and global)? And at the same time, while there are no “cataclysms”, such a prudent owner (and luck favors the prepared!) simply wants to use solar energy as a priority (and maybe wind energy), ensuring a green ecology and almost forgetting about electricity bills.

And most importantly, what specific solutions are most effective to apply?

In this article we will try to briefly answer these questions, fortunately, our company (MicroART) is engaged in the development, production and sale of electronic devices necessary for autonomous power supply systems, and has the largest experience in Russia on this topic (when we started, it took a long time years were practically the first and only ones here).
We will even tell you about what professional “solar power plant installers” don’t know or don’t want to know (since it requires additional effort during installation) from the hundreds of new companies that have mushroomed thanks to the growing demand.

Let's start with an excerpt from a letter from a real person:

I have a dacha. When we bought it 2 years ago, as usual, they promised that literally in a month the work on installing electricity poles would begin and it would be just around the corner... But now 2 years have passed and the promises continue. Over the past season, I built a house on the site and almost completed the fence. For all this, I purchased a 2KW generator, which coped perfectly with any tool. Except for welding, of course. My wife really liked how I did everything there and this summer she would like to live there with her child. But the worst thing is that it is very wasteful to power a refrigerator from a generator. The consumption is about a liter per hour, which is somehow too much.
Many people recommended that I order solar panels. They are not very expensive and they are useful in the summer. I will buy car batteries 2x100Ah. According to calculations, for the weekend there should be enough for lighting + a refrigerator with a large supply.
And now, the actual question - tell us about your experience in operating a refrigerator and other solar-powered electrical appliances!

Indeed, a noisy generator with harmful exhaust gases that constantly “eats” is not at all the pinnacle of scientific thought. Holidays next door to it can cause displeasure not only to the owners, but also to the neighbors.
Good solutions using renewable energy sources are already available today. Much, of course, depends on the budget that is allocated, and squeezing it too tight is fraught with danger. As you know, “the miser pays twice”! You can, of course, buy one or two solar panels, a small and simple solar controller for them, a small car battery (or even remove the old one from the car), install a cheap low-power car inverter - and enjoy the light from LED bulbs. But this will not provide a full-fledged comfortable stay, and the service life of these components will be short. We will consider full-fledged modern (and the best!) solutions that provide comfort no worse than in a city apartment.
We will describe the main steps to solve the problem using the Sun (the topic of wind generators is covered in articles on www.vetrogenerator.ru) and give approximate current prices (at an exchange rate of 1 dollar = 36 rubles).

1. It is necessary to correctly select and buy solar panels (SP) with a solar controller, and also, correctly and in a special way, install them

A) The first thing we say is that for at least some comfort in a country house, the very minimum the total power of the joint venture must be at least 600 W. For example, 3 solar panels of 24 V 200 W (if the panels are high-quality, the price is approximately 35,000 rubles). And it is more correct, for seasonal living, to set from 1000 to 2000 W SP. If accommodation will be in the autumn-winter period - then from 2000 W, but better, if financial capabilities allow, of course - from 4000 W.

B) Secondly, it is necessary to ensure that the solar panels work in cloudy weather. For this you need connect them so that their total voltage is high, if we consider the rated voltage of the battery and the solar panel assembly, then the latter should have a voltage 1.5 - 2 times higher than the voltage of the battery. Then, even when shaded by clouds, the voltage from them will still be high enough to charge the batteries. But this also implies a requirement for the solar controller - it must be made using MPRT technology. And not just MRRT, but high-class, capable of handling high input voltage(minimum 100 V, but 200 or 250 V is even better). Naturally, a high-quality controller can work with any output battery connected to any voltage (12 V, 24 V, 48 V - the most optimal for our purposes is 48 V, especially since efficient wind generators are usually made for this voltage). And also because the cost of a solar controller depends on the current it can provide. It turns out that if a controller up to 50 A is connected to a battery with a voltage of 24 V, then it can produce power up to 50 A * 24 V = 1.2 kW. And if the same 50 A controller is used in a 48 V system, then it is already 2.4 kW.
Further increasing the voltage of the solar panel array (300 V or more) is usually impractical, because leads to a significant decrease in efficiency. And also the installation of joint ventures is becoming more and more dangerous. Even 150 V DC voltage is dangerous to life and requires careful adherence to safety precautions when installing panels and connecting to the controller.
Such solar controllers (for example, a powerful 100 A solar controller has the ability to connect an array of solar panels up to 200 V or 250 V) usually allow the connection of up to several kilowatts of solar panels and they are more expensive than usual (price 25,000 - 30,000 rubles). A comparative test of different premium MPPT controllers can be viewed.

So, winter, experience.
1. The vertical location of the joint venture has justified itself. Sticky snow froze on the roof in a heap, even on the south side. If the joint ventures weren’t hanging on the wall, then for at least a week they would simply be hidden from the sun! I don’t know how to clean them from ice - I haven’t tried. And from the vertical plane, all the glass was frosty, only at the bottom, near the transition to the frame, it stuck a little - and the joint ventures worked.
2. Two directions (for me, for now, east and south) also showed themselves well. There is sun in the morning and clouds in the afternoon, and vice versa. That is, I almost always catch the sun if there is any.

Another person, from St. Petersburg, writes:

My (panels) were reinstalled in May 2011 to the southeast and southwest. I didn’t notice any difference in the total daily output, but the generation time increased significantly. I was forced to install it this way due to the construction of the fence. The work began around 8 am and by the time decent generation began with a unidirectional installation, the batteries had drained up to 48 V. After changing the azimuth of the installation, the situation changed radically.

Really, in central Russia and to the north, if we are talking about year-round living, it makes more sense to mount solar panels vertically and preferably with a slight orientation to the cardinal points(for example, turn half of the panels from the south direction 30 degrees to the southeast, and the other half - 30 degrees to the southwest). You can also scatter them on the sides of the house, if such conditions exist (it is not necessary to strive for exact matching of the corners).
Vertical installation of the joint venture is good for snowy winters (and in general this has a beneficial effect on the service life of the panels, which becomes almost eternal, as well as on their cleanliness, and therefore greater efficiency). The main thing is that the orientation of the panels to the cardinal points allows you to extend the duration of energy supply during daylight hours (this makes it possible to use more electricity without consuming batteries, and the batteries themselves, in this case, are better charged, since they require long-term charges at low currents ).
And there is no need to blindly copy Europe or America - they are doing the right thing here, placing joint ventures on flat roofs and all facing south. Their latitude is different and/or there is almost no snow. And most importantly, the maximum power generated by the joint venture is important to them. Moreover, it does not matter that it is maximum at noon, when there are very few power consumers. Because they are allowed to pump energy into the network, which radically changes the matter, because this energy will not be lost (however, we will talk about this at the end of this article).
The total energy input with a vertical arrangement of the panels, as well as with their orientation to the cardinal points, will be slightly less than with a southern orientation and at the optimal angle for a particular time of year at a particular latitude. However, this excess of energy would occur during 2–3 hours of the day, i.e. when there is already a lot of energy, and when there is nowhere to put it, and there is no sense in it.
If conditions B) and C) are met, we find that there must still be at least two chains of panels. If for a 48 V battery, then 3 pcs (each 24 V, and if the panels are 12 V, then 6 pcs) connected in series. Those. we get two multidirectional sequential chains. For example, from 24 V 200 W panels you need at least 600 + 600 = 1200 W. If even more power is needed, then the chains within each group must be connected in parallel. Each group of solar panels, if its power is large, can be connected through its own solar controller to one battery group (i.e., two controllers are obtained).
Two solar controllers, in the case of multi-directional groups of panels, can also be useful because:
- the overall efficiency will be slightly higher than that of one;
- this will allow you to use any number of joint ventures, which can be dictated by the design of the house (the roof or walls on which you plan to hang the joint venture), for example, install 7 pieces. (3 pcs. for one channel, 4 pcs. for another);
- the overall reliability of the system will increase (failure of one controller, or one channel in the controller, will not be so fatal).
If there is still only one solar controller, and the solar panels are directed to different directions of the world, then they must be “decoupled” from each other by diodes.

G) It is better to buy large panels (with a power of 200 W or more) and hang them high. This is especially important when it comes to areas where theft is possible (large panels are very difficult to steal). In addition, the larger the solar panel, the slightly higher its efficiency, but also the more difficult it is to transport, and, especially, to install at height.
The best solar panels in terms of efficiency and durability are monocrystalline solar panels. But they also cost a little more than polycrystalline ones. Black mono panels are even more expensive (the internal filling is black, the aluminum frame is also anodized black). It would seem that this beauty leads to unnecessary heating of the joint venture, and therefore to a slight drop in its efficiency (a fraction of a percent of the total efficiency). However, in bright sunshine, there is usually still an excess of energy, but in the autumn-winter period, black panels are much better at self-cleaning from snow and ice.
To ensure natural ventilation, an air gap of 5–10 cm is left between the panels and the base (panels, for example, can be mounted on aluminum corners, which are screwed to the base through racks with 5–10 cm long aluminum tubes attached).

D) In ​​case if there is not enough space on the house and on the site, and if theft is unlikely, solar panels can produce their maximum possible energy output if they are installed on tracker(it automatically turns the SP after the Sun). You can see more details and buy.

Another possible option for installing solar panels is directly in the fence.

Moreover, even with this option for installing the joint venture, it is possible to ensure multidirectionality according to the cardinal directions - you just need to fold all the panels like an accordion. Additional efficiency appears due to the reflection of light from one panel to another.
It is quite easy to install solar panels on a metal frame, which, if conditions permit, can be made slightly multidirectional or solar panels installed on it in an “accordion” manner.

2. It is necessary to ensure automatic operation of most electrical appliances exclusively during the day

We have already taken care of “stretching” the daylight hours (by placing solar panels in different directions along the cardinal points), we have ensured the supply of energy in cloudy weather (by connecting solar panels in series into high-voltage chains and using a high-quality MPPT solar controller). Now we need to think about how to make sure that the bulk of high-cost consumers turn on during the day. Then the small number of electrical appliances remaining for the evening and night (LED light bulbs, TV, computer, etc.) will not be able to significantly discharge the battery and the latter, precisely because of this, will serve for decades (here, of course, a lot depends on the design of the battery).
It is clear that we will start washing at 12, and do vacuuming at about the same time. But some things can be automated, which is extremely important.
So, for example, it would be necessary for such an energy-consuming device as a boiler (water heater for shower, etc.) to be connected to an autonomous 220 V power supply only during the day, when the sun is shining (or when the voltage on the battery is still high, i.e. they are not very discharged). After all, its tank is insulated from the inside with a thick layer of foam and is capable of retaining heat for a very long time (until late at night, at least). It is also convenient to have the air conditioner turned on during the day. And for some, a heater during the daytime will not hurt (for example, in spring/autumn, if there are a lot of panels).
Even more important is the automatic connection and disconnection of the refrigerator from autonomous electricity. At first glance, it may seem that the refrigerator consumes little energy - only 150 W (although at startup - up to 1.5 kW, but these are seconds and do not count). However, the refrigerator works 24 hours a day and, as a result, is one of the most energy-consuming household devices. In addition, when working at night, it significantly discharges the batteries, which is largely the reason for their rapid loss of capacity. What measures can be taken to avoid all this, but at the same time not lose the benefits of civilization?

A) Again, it is necessary to use a high-quality solar controller with MPPT technology (or two such controllers), but for a different reason. Only such premium controllers have built-in powerful programmable relays (220V 3.5 kW). Through such a relay, you need to connect the refrigerator and program the solar controller so that the relay turns on only when there is solar energy (or when the voltage on the battery is not lower than, say, 12.3 V per 1 battery, which corresponds to its discharge by 20 - 30% ).
It is better to connect the boiler (for heating water) through another powerful relay (if, of course, there are several of them in the controller), because one relay cannot handle the power of starting both the refrigerator and the boiler at the same time, and the priority of the refrigerator can be set higher. When it is cloudy and there is not enough energy for everyone, the controller will leave only the refrigerator connected.
You can find out about the presence of such programmable relays in the controller, for example, from a comparative test of different premium MPPT controllers, or by looking at their data sheets with characteristics. The solar controllers IES DOMINATOR MPPT and IES PRO MPPT, developed by our specialists, have 3 such built-in relays, and all of them are designed for voltage up to 220 V and the power of the devices connected to each of them up to 3.5 kW.
If necessary, one of these relays can be programmed to automatically turn on the generator, or turn on the alarm.
Possible relay programming algorithms (some of the list below is in the process of finalizing the firmware, which is periodically updated on our website):
- these relays must be switched on according to a certain priority (there is a critical load, and there is a secondary one);
- according to battery voltage;
- according to the power that solar panels can currently produce;
- by time;
- by whether there is a battery charge from other sources (from the generator through the MAC, or from a wind generator - for this the controller has a measuring ring), or whether there is 220 V at the MAC input (i.e. if the MAC transmits, for example, 220 V from the generator, then why shouldn’t the refrigerator work?). In order for our solar controller to know that 220 V has appeared at the MAC input, we connect it to our MAC with an additional cord and they “communicate”.

B) Since refrigerators are used by everyone and since they are one of the most consuming electrical appliances, let’s talk about the principles of their selection for power from solar panels in more detail.
For conditions of autonomy and low energy consumption, the refrigerator must be energy saving class A+ + +(in extreme cases - A + +) and stand in a cool place (and the radiator behind the refrigerator should be freely ventilated).
Suitable volume and the ability to maintain the required sub-zero temperature are the main criteria for a freezer. At different temperatures, food can be stored for quite a long period of time; to preserve food for a week, you need a temperature of -6° C. If the freezer maintains a temperature of -12° C, then this is a guaranteed preservation of food for up to one month. If the temperature is -18° C, the products can be stored in the refrigerator for about three months.
Well, what if temperature can be maintained at -24°C, then it is possible to store products for 6-12 months. The last refrigerator option suits us best.
Due to high-quality thermal insulation, many refrigerators are able to maintain a fairly low temperature inside even during a power outage. Cold retention time is the most important parameter of refrigerators. This is the time during which, in the event of a power failure, the refrigerator will remain at a temperature low enough to preserve perishable food properly. The longer this time, the better the thermal insulation of the refrigerator and the more suitable it is for conditions in which power outages are possible.
Certainly, you need to set the refrigerator to the lowest temperatures in both the freezer and the general chamber, which are only possible. This will allow the cold inside to last for more than one night.
If you follow a few simple rules for operating your refrigerator, it will consume less electricity. Do not place food in it that is above room temperature. Try not to leave doors open. And choose a place for your refrigerator as far as possible from the radiator and stove. It is advisable that direct sunlight does not fall on it.

For example, let’s look at three refrigerators that are almost ideal for autonomy (and not only):

Liebherr CTPsl 2541 Freezer: top; Number of cameras: 2; Refrigerator volume (l): 191; Freezer volume (l): 44; Total volume (l): 235; Control: rotary switches; Number of compressors: 1; Cooling circuits: 1; Freezer temperature: up to -24°C; Cold retention time (h): 22 ; Freezing capacity (kg/day): 4; Functions: Auto defrost; Re-hanging doors; Quick freezing; Fast cooling; Antibacterial protection; Hidden door handles; Energy class: A++ ; Noise level (dB): 40; Color: stainless steel; Dimensions (cm): 140x55x63; Price from 20,000 rub.

Electrolux EN 3613 AOX Freezer: bottom; Number of cameras: 2; Refrigerator volume (l): 245; Freezer volume (l): 90; Total volume (l): 335; Control: touch; Freezer temperature: up to -24°C; Cold retention time (h): 20 ; Functions: Auto defrost; Door closed indicator; Re-hanging doors; Freshness zone; Quick freezing; Fast cooling; Antibacterial protection; Display; ; Color: stainless steel; Dimensions (cm): 185x60x67; Price from 33,000 rub.

Bosch KGE 49AI40 Freezer: bottom; Number of cameras: 2; Refrigerator volume (l): 296; Freezer volume (l): 112; Total volume (l): 408; Control: push-button switches; Number of compressors: 1; Cooling circuits: 2; Freezer temperature: up to -24°C; Cold retention time (h): 44 ; Freezing capacity (kg/day): 15; Functions: Auto defrost; Door closed indicator; Re-hanging doors; Freshness zone; Quick freezing; Fast cooling; Vacation mode; Antibacterial protection; No Frost: freezer; Energy class: A+++ ; Noise level (dB): 38; Color: stainless steel; Dimensions (cm): 201x70x65; Weight (kg): 98; Price from 25,000 rub.

Q) And if there is no sun for several days or weeks, and there is a catastrophic shortage of energy, what should you do then? Then there is a backup option for our miracle refrigerator; it needs to get its “second wind,” so to speak.
The first thing that comes to mind is to store several kilograms of lead in the freezer. It has a large mass, it should gain a lot of cold at -24° C... And it will also take a long time to give it away, slowly heating up in a well-insulated freezer.
But the problem is that it is harmful to store lead near food, it is somehow unhygienic, if not toxic.
Gold is a much better option! It is heavier than lead and completely safe in sanitary terms. So if you are wondering where to put a couple of other gold bars (the more, the better) - the freezer is the place for them. And thieves will never guess!
However, unfortunately, not everyone has free gold bars, so you will have to be content with what is already offered for cooler bags.
No, we don't need dry ice. Yes, and it is already morally outdated.
Distinguish several types of modern cold storage batteries(they are sold in plastic containers or sealed bags, their service life is unlimited):

gel – maintains temperatures from -70° C to +80° C, is a gel solution sealed in a sealed durable polymer bag (up to -20° C), or a solid container (up to -70° C);

water-salt - the most common, standard option - plastic briquettes with a saline solution, placed in the freezer before use and capable of maintaining a temperature from -20° C to +8° C;

silicone – maintains temperature from 0° C to -2° C, but for 7 days. The main advantage of silicone batteries over water-salt and gel batteries is the ability to maintain a constant temperature around zero for a long period (up to 7 days).

These cold storage batteries are inexpensive - from 100 to 1000 rubles. Gel cold elements, compared to salt ones, have a significantly higher heat capacity and are able to operate at very low temperatures. But you can prepare the salt element yourself. Moreover, the more concentrated the brine solution is, the lower its minus melting point will be. The maximum concentration corresponds to – 20° C (below, salt precipitates). It is the melting point, i.e. the phase transition from solid to liquid, that is the “stop” point, because a phase transition requires a lot of energy. This temperature is the “retention” point for the refrigerant.
Silicone refrigerant is the most efficient and long-lasting. But its holding temperature (from 0° C to -2° C) makes more sense in a general chamber than in a freezer.
So, in autonomous conditions, in addition to all of the above, in a good refrigerator and freezer you must always keep several briquettes of gel refrigerant (model up to -70 ° C) and several silicone ones. In case of prolonged energy shortage, silicone briquettes should be transferred to a common chamber, and gel briquettes should be left in the freezer.
After energy is supplied (the sun appears or the generator is turned on, etc.), the silicone briquettes should be placed back in the freezer.
Finally, we note that there are also refrigerators that operate on a constant voltage of 12 V and/or 24 V, as well as refrigerators that operate on gas cylinders with a propane-butane mixture. However, both of these solutions are not economical, have very low efficiency (since they operate on low voltages and/or are based on the adsorption cooling method), have weak parameters of the refrigerators themselves and are high in cost (especially those operating on gas - 45,000 rubles for a small refrigerator with total volume 285 l).
Once upon a time, adsorption refrigerators were produced just for the family, for the home. However, they were replaced by compressor ones, because lost in all respects except noiselessness. And running, even once every 3 weeks, with 50 liter gas cylinders, cannot be called a comfortable pastime. However, when there is no other choice, for example in camping conditions, then such a refrigerator will be suitable.

Let us summarize the previous two paragraphs more clearly. After all, it is better to see once than to hear a hundred times.

So, to begin with, let’s compare on the graphs the operation of a conventional solar system and a “correct” solar system with an installed SP power of 1500 - 2000 W on a hot sunny day in June.

A). In a conventional solar system (graph A), all SPs are installed at an angle of 45 degrees to the horizon, facing south and connected in accordance with the battery voltage (i.e., there is no serious excess of the SP voltage over the battery voltage). There are no relays that control loads in the solar controller either.
In the graph, we see that the SP's peak power is reached by 13:00, and we see that at least 40% of solar energy is not used (and in reality, even more is usually not used).
It is also obvious that the 60% of solar energy that is used is mainly used to charge large-capacity batteries. The capacity must be large (especially if we want to discharge it only by 30%, which significantly increases their service life), because it is from it that all electrical equipment is powered in the evening, at night and in the morning.

B). When using a high-voltage solar system with vertically installed solar power plants and oriented to the southeast and southwest, we see that the maximum power of the solar power plant dropped by about 30 - 40%, and at the same time the effective time for receiving solar energy increased. In addition, it is clear that due to the fact that the refrigerator, boiler and other electrical equipment are forcibly turned on only during the day, they mainly consume only solar energy, and not the energy that has been converted into batteries (by the way, acid batteries have an efficiency of about 80%). This means that the battery capacity can be much smaller, but this is an expensive consumable item. It can be seen that with proper design of the system and programming of relay activation, the use of solar energy can reach 90% or more.

Now let’s compare on the graphs the operation of a conventional solar system and a “correct” solar system with an installed solar power of 1500 - 2000 W on a cloudy June day.

IN). In a conventional solar system (graph B), due to clouds, the voltage from the SP dropped on average lower than that of the battery and charging or direct energy consumption is impossible. Although sometimes the sky may clear up a little and at such moments (judging by the chart, the sun appeared after 17:00) a little energy will appear. In general, a conventional system on such days operates either by drawing as much as possible of the previously accumulated energy from the battery (which reduces their resource), or while the generator is running, which at the same time recharges the battery.

G). When using a high-voltage solar system with vertically installed SPs and oriented to the southeast and southwest, we see that the maximum power of the SP dropped by approximately 3 - 4 times from the installed capacity of the SP, and at the same time the effective time for receiving solar energy still slightly enlarged.
Because The SPs are connected in series at high voltage; the voltage at the input of the highly efficient solar controller is enough to convert the energy that is sent to charge the battery and to operate the most necessary electrical equipment.
It can be seen that due to the fact that the refrigerator and boiler are forcibly turned on only during the day, and the rest of the optional equipment is not turned on at all due to low priority, even this reduced energy is enough. This means that batteries are still almost never used, even if the Sun does not appear at all. The use of weak solar energy in this case approaches 100%.
In winter the situation will get even worse, because... Daylight hours will be reduced by almost 2 times and cloudiness may become deeper (November-December). It follows from this that if you need year-round autonomous power supply and there is no desire to turn on the generator every 3 days for at least a couple of months, then the power of the joint venture must be doubled (up to 4000 W). Then schedule G will correspond to the autumn-winter period.
For the autumn-winter period, the orientation of the joint venture is not so important, because The angle of passage of the Sun narrows, and even when it is cloudy (and during this period it prevails), the direction of the Sun is almost unimportant. Therefore, for year-round operation, you can limit yourself to installing all joint ventures vertically in the south direction.

Conclusion: getting energy when it’s cloudy and, even more so, when it’s cloudy (and this is especially important in winter) is very, very necessary. There are too many such days in Russia. We are not Spain and, especially, not Africa, for example, in Moscow there are only 75 sunny days a year - so this is very important! Here the question is stark - either there is a result (although when it is cloudy, the solar output drops up to 3 times less than the nominal value, and when it is overcast - up to 6 times), or there is no result at all at such times - if you use cheap solar controllers (including MRRT ), use few SPs, connect them at low voltage, install them at an angle where snow in winter is the norm.
Thanks to the proposed measures, it is possible to increase the power of solar panels, while the energy will be efficiently utilized, and also to have solar electricity at any time of the year in almost any corner of Russia. This power can be used either directly for heating, water heating and “warm floors”, or through a heat pump, and without subjecting the battery to harsh use.

3. You need to purchase a quality inverter

As for the inverter, it must be with a sine output of 220 V, with high efficiency (96%), with low current consumption at idle (XX = 0.3 - 0.4 A), with high overload capacity, as well as with expanded functionality. It is desirable that the inverter be able to quickly charge the battery from the network or generator.
For a refrigerator, an inverter power of 0.5 - 1 kW would be enough, but since there are other electrical equipment, a power range from 3 to 12 kW is usually optimal. The voltage of the inverter and battery should be selected at least 24 V, but preferably 48 V.

Our company has developed a MAP inverter (modifications PRO, HYBRID, DOMINATOR) - in terms of quality and capabilities, it is at the level of the world's best brands, at a much lower price. We started developing the first inverter back in 1999, but only by 2012 did the device achieve world-class perfection and reliability. Naturally, it has a high efficiency of 96%, a high overload capacity and a low current of up to 0.4 A. It generally has very low electromagnetic radiation, because a transformer in the form of an expensive torus was used.
You will probably ask what is so special about these “global brands” besides the name (we will list them - Xtender, SMA, Xantrex, Victron, OutBack), and even then, known only in professional circles? And Chinese inverters are a little cheaper than MAP!
There are differences, besides eminence, and they are serious. Only “global brands” (and now MAP) have very rich functionality and modes; High reliability is ensured (due to the use of high-quality expensive, rather than cheap, components, and due to careful testing of each device). Only they, like the MAP, are based on similar circuitry and expensive toroidal transformers and chokes. All of the above has a noticeably higher cost, and therefore a higher retail price. And therefore, not only Chinese, but also less famous European and American inverters do not have the above.

We will not describe all the capabilities of MAP (those interested can familiarize themselves with them here). We will tell you only about some important features for autonomous life.
- Possibility of wired and wireless connection with a computer (several software options have been developed that can notify (including via SMS) and create graphs to monitor the parameters of the entire power system). Therefore, for example, your batteries will not remain discharged for a long time without your knowledge, and, as a result, they will not “die for a long time.” And the house won’t freeze, if anything...
- Working with conventional low-cost generators of high and relatively low power (i.e. low quality, with voltage surges) - this opportunity is very rare among the world's best brands. This means that the inverter will not burn out, and the charge will be good and fast, and the generator does not have to cost 250,000 rubles.
- Grid (or generator) support mode: automatic “adding” of inverter power to the grid (or generator power) and/or automatic temporary reduction of charge during peak loads (modification of HYBRID MAC and DOMINATOR MAC) - only the world’s best brands have this feature . This means that where, say, a 6 kW generator would be required, a 3 kW generator will probably cope - the inverter will help it at the right moments. But this is not only saving on the price of the generator. This also means constant savings on fuel!

4. A little about batteries

It is well known that the service life of a battery is greatly reduced depending on the current consumed from it. To reduce currents and depth of discharges, you can increase the battery capacity, while reducing the permissible discharge.
On the other hand, in order to reduce the total cost of owning your own power plant, it is necessary to use batteries with the smallest possible capacity (after all, their resource is limited).
Due to the implementation of load management systems in solar controllers IES DOMINATOR and IES PRO, free energy from the joint venture mainly goes directly to external consumers, which will reduce the battery capacity.
For a country house of 200-300 m² in central Russia, a total battery capacity of 200 Ah * 48 V, or, which is the same, 400 Ah * 24 V, is sufficient. In this case, the power of solar panels should be 2000 - 4000 W (minimum for seasonal operation - 1200 W).
With such a power of the joint venture, the batteries will always be charged, and the free power from the solar panels will be automatically distributed among external consumers.
Practice has shown that sealed lead batteries are not recommended for autonomous power supply, i.e. type AGM, gel, OPzV. They are too “gentle” for the difficult conditions of autonomy. Water is still gradually lost from them, and it is impossible to refill it. Sealed batteries usually last up to 2-3 years in such conditions.
Keep in mind - the service life of any batteries with an autonomous power supply is several times shorter than in reserve conditions (i.e. when there is a 220 V mains supply, but sometimes it disappears), it’s just that for sealed batteries with autonomy, it is generally very short.
Therefore, depending on the budget, the autonomous driver has little choice:

1. Car starters, open type.
The price of a total capacity of 190 Ah * 48 V (composed of 4 pcs. 190 Ah * 12 V connected in series) is about 28,000 rubles. Autonomous service life is about 2 - 4 years, or up to 200 charge/discharge cycles at 80%.
For a lower degree of their discharge, and therefore to increase their service life to 5 - 7 years, their capacity can be doubled (then you can set the permissible battery discharge in the inverter to no more than 30%, and the autonomy time will not decrease much).
We recommend, for example, those produced by the Tyumen Battery Plant. Unlike some others, they follow technology and do not skimp on lead. You can roughly understand the quality of batteries if you compare their weight with the same capacity. Naturally, those that are heavier are better.
Only batteries with calcium alloys should not be purchased for autonomous power supply purposes. Batteries with traditional antimony alloys are much more resistant to deep discharges.
Check the electrolyte level and add distilled water to each jar at least once a year. We must not forget about this; the electrolyte level should not fall below the specified limit - otherwise accelerated degradation of the battery plates will occur.

2. Traction armored deep discharge (Battery Microart). The price of a total capacity of 210 Ah * 48 V (consisting of 24 pcs. 210 Ah * 2 V connected in series) is about 72,000 rubles. Autonomous service life is about 10 years, or up to 1500 charge/discharge cycles at 80%.

You can choose a capacity for a lower voltage - 400 Ah * 24 V. Its price (consisting of 12 pieces of 400 Ah * 2 V connected in series) is about 65,000 rubles.
If it is necessary to radically reduce the requirements for room ventilation and check the electrolyte level, special catalyst plugs can be installed on these batteries for hydrogen recovery (you can check the electrolyte level and, if necessary, add distilled water not once a year, but once every 6 years). With such plugs, these batteries are practically approaching the maintenance-free nature of sealed batteries, and, at the same time, have all the advantages of serviceable ones.

3. Lithium iron phosphate(LiFePO4) batteries are sealed and, nevertheless, would be ideal for autonomous power supply, if not for their price.
The price of a total capacity of 160 Ah*48 V, including a BMS of our design (the necessary charge corrector for such batteries), made up of 15 pcs. 160 Ah * 3.2 V connected in series will be about 220,000 rubles. Autonomous service life is about 25 years, or up to 3000 charge/discharge cycles at 80%.
These are not lead batteries, so they are relatively light and small in size. Due to their resistance to deep discharges, the total capacity can be set to less than 2 times compared to lead batteries (and accordingly, set the inverter so that it discharges them by about 80%). Those. When building the system described above, you can use the capacity of lithium-iron phosphate batteries 100 Ah* 48 V, or 160 - 260 Ah* 24 V, which is much more affordable.

A feature of lithium-iron phosphate batteries, in addition to the highest efficiency (97%), is the ability to charge very quickly (normally about 2 hours, which is 6 times faster than a full charge of other types of batteries), and most importantly, insensitivity to undercharging, to deep discharges and being left in a state of discharge for a long time, which sooner or later happens with completely autonomous living. Especially if the system does not know how to notify the owner via SMS messages.
Therefore, in the case of using lithium-iron phosphate batteries, it is not necessary to install solar panels in different directions.
More details have been written about the design features of different batteries and the features of their operation in different conditions. And of course, it is worth recalling that for complete autonomy a generator is needed (preferably an inverter, perhaps with automatic SAP), and it is also desirable, if conditions permit, a wind generator.

5. Let's talk about life in the presence of an industrial power grid and, at the same time, “under the shadow of solar panels”... What to choose, or why - what is good for the “German” is death for the “Russian”?

By tradition, let's start with a message on one of the forums:

I personally, quite recently, came to the conclusion that it is better (more promising) to take a network inverter (SI) instead of MPPT controllers. According to the SI passport, the conversion efficiency = 97% and immediately energy = 220 to the house for consumption. And in the case of MPPT, conversion takes place in the controller, then it goes to the batteries, then in the hybrid (the battery inverter is lost for conversion) - the losses are greater. Another factor is thoughts for the future: what if someday in Russia they will be allowed to supply (sell) electricity to the network, and there will be no need to buy anything in addition.
By the way, can the SolarLake 8500TL-PM grid-tied inverter redistribute energy from the solar system between phases?
The system will also have 3 units of XTM 4048 Xtender, each per phase. And a very important question and task for me is that not a single kilowatt goes into the network or slips through the meter in the opposite direction.
...One more backup option is proposed, to additionally install an MPPT controller with a small mass SP, in case the batteries are discharged. SI generation will stop, and then the MPPT controller will independently charge the battery. That's a good idea too.

Not everyone probably understands what the message is about, so we’ll give an explanation a little later. But first, let us note that people are greatly mistaken in many ways, and these delusions cost a lot of extra money. Moreover, the difference in this case can be about half a million rubles - this is the price of a mistake, which sellers of imported equipment are in no hurry to convince a wealthy client of. For more modest buyers, only the order of the lost amount will change, but the essence will not change.
So, a grid-tied inverter (GI) is an electronic device that is both an inverter and a solar controller with MPPT technology. But the network inverter has a completely different ideology, which has its origins in other conditions of the Eurozone countries, the USA, etc. Remember the saying - “What is good for a Russian is death for a German!”, and vice versa. And now we will prove it.
The ideology of the network inverter is to immediately convert the energy received from solar panels (connected to HIGH voltage, usually in the range of 300 - 800 V) into alternating HIGH voltage 220 V and immediately supply it to the industrial network, synchronizing with it. Since the voltage at the input and output is high, you can do without transformers, which should reduce the cost of network inverters (although for some reason they are not sold cheaply).
If the load in the house is large and little solar energy is supplied, then all of it is spent on home consumption. And if there is almost no load, and the Sun is hot, then this energy is pumped into the industrial power grid. Those. the counter “spuns in the opposite direction, rewinding the readings.” And batteries seem to be not needed - instead of them there is a huge electrical grid. You can pump and pump electricity into it, turning the meter to a big minus, and then, much later, in the winter, you can get back what you gave away so generously on summer days! And there are no problems with dark summer nights - the industrial power grid is a giant battery, eternal and without losses.
But, to our great regret, so far in Russia there are two factors that nullify this entire idyll:

1. We do not allow individuals to upload anything to the network. One could ignore the prohibitions - “let them catch you first”! Only there are practically no such counters (which allow you to subtract reverse energy). And there are those meters that will gladly accept your solar energy, but they will not subtract the readings, but add them! Those. the consumer will pay twice - first for the energy received, and then also for the energy given, for the energy donated to the state, he will pay as for the energy consumed!

2. If in Europe electricity is practically never turned off, and there it is often possible not to have a backup system on batteries, then in our area such outages and accidents are not uncommon. Therefore, batteries are vital not only for autonomy, but also for reserve.
Maybe you naively believe that a network inverter (and it does not work with a battery), in the event of an industrial 220 V shutdown, will produce its 220 V, at least while the Sun is shining? No! He won't give anything away.
Its design is made in such a way that industrial 220 V is the reference and leading voltage for it. And, in addition, according to safety requirements - when an unsuspecting electrician turns off the supply of network 220 and, say, starts repairing the network with his bare hands - so as not to kill him, the network inverter should not continue to generate 220 V.
Thus, if the power goes out and only a grid-tied inverter with solar panels is installed, you will be left without electricity! Huge amounts of money have been spent, but there is no autonomous power supply!
We hope now that we have proven the truth of the altered saying - what is good for the “German” is death for the “Russian”!?
And it will remain so until the laws are changed, until the electricity stops being cut off...
What is offered in conjunction with the network inverters advertised in Russia?
Well, firstly, the world's best brands have released so-called hybrid inverters that can work with batteries as usual, and have also learned to charge their batteries if a network inverter is connected to the output of such an inverter(both MAP HYBRID and MAP DOMINATOR can do this).

Those. The result is a strange design, where instead of the MPPT solar controller, which charges the battery, a network inverter with a built-in MPPT controller is installed. But it is not installed on the battery, but on the 220 V output of the hybrid inverter. The network inverter will then be able to work even when the 220 V network is disconnected, because 220 V will continue to be generated by the hybrid inverter from the battery instead of the network, and the network inverter will still think that it is network 220 V.
The MPPT solar controller and the network inverter have the same efficiency - 98%, but the network inverter immediately supplies energy to the network, while in the case of a solar controller with a battery, there is also a conversion link - a hybrid inverter, which has an efficiency of 96%.
Those. in the latter case, the overall efficiency is 0.98 * 0.96 = 0.94%
Please note that the system can be configured so that the batteries do not participate in the process of downloading solar energy from the solar controller, i.e. the energy will be used in transit, so the efficiency of the batteries has nothing to do with it. For example, our solar controller ECO Energy MPRT 100 A 200 V, when connected to a 48 V system, gives up to 5 kW (and it has current sensors, it can instantly produce as much as the inverter requires, even if the batteries are charged, i.e. .he will not allow them to sag even an iota).
But is the slightly lower efficiency (by 4%) an argument for a grid-tied inverter instead of a solar controller? No is not. Because the price of a network inverter is several times higher than a solar controller of similar power. And this loss in efficiency, if desired, can be easily covered by installing an extra solar panel, which will be much cheaper. Here it is also necessary to explain how a hybrid battery inverter (and these are produced today only by a few eminent foreign companies and we, MicroART) differs from a conventional battery inverter.
The hybrid inverter can synchronize with the industrial network and pump energy there from the battery, both with and without a solar controller (from battery energy). Those. it can do the same as a network inverter and even more - for example, “power up” the network during overloads. Those. it can add power from the battery and/or from the solar controller to the allocated network power.
The hybrid superimposes its sine on the network sine with a slightly larger amplitude and can take over the entire load or part of the load. If the menu allows pumping while the voltage on 1 battery is above 12.7 V (which corresponds to 100% charge), then in the absence of external energy supply (for example from the Sun), pumping will stop, and then everything will then be powered at 100% networks. When the Sun appears, pumping will continue again, as much as this solar energy allows, or as much as consumers use up. But you can also allow some discharge of the battery - this will allow you to pump up the accumulated amount in the evening, although the battery life will then be reduced.
Output to the external network is prohibited by default for hybrid inverters, but it can be enabled.
It is very important that in the settings of hybrid inverters there is a choice - whether to limit pumping only to the home network, or to also allow pumping to an external network, as in a network inverter. Thus, problems with domestic networks and meters for hybrid inverters are eliminated.
But what about network inverters? A couple of years ago, an attachment to a network inverter was developed that monitors the direction of the current and also does not allow the network inverter to pump energy into an external network (similar to a hybrid inverter), limiting itself only to the home network. However, such a prefix costs 20,000 rubles.
So what are the cunning sellers of domestic sun lovers “buying” for when they offer network inverters? Firstly, for simplicity - supposedly I bought solar panels, bought a network inverter, connected everything and it works! Then they inflate the topic of higher efficiency, and short-lived and expensive batteries that do not need to be purchased and installed... They talk about high voltage and lower losses in the wires (also not an argument - above, we wrote that good solar MPPT controllers should also be high voltage inputs).
Network inverters that can charge batteries also began to appear (developed specifically for Russia and by no means famous companies). They are seriously inferior to the combination - hybrid inverter + MPPT solar controller (there is no room to describe this here either).
However, upon closer examination with an “armed eye”... No, we are not “Germans” yet, unfortunately... or fortunately!
Well, now let’s briefly examine the message from the potential user given above.
1. He made a mistake when comparing efficiency (since battery efficiency does not need to be taken into account). And he didn’t understand that it’s easier and cheaper to compensate for this small difference in efficiency with an extra solar panel.
2. If in Russia they are ever allowed to supply energy to an industrial network, then a hybrid inverter will also be able to supply it there.
3. In a three-phase system, the three-phase network inverter SolarLake 8500TL-PM (power up to 3 kW per phase, price under 125,000 rubles) will not be able to redistribute energy between phases - that’s how it is made. And three hybrid inverters can (by the way, the price of a HYBRID 48 V 6 kW 3 ph MAC (its rated power is 4 kW) is about 66,000 rubles for each).
Our new model of inverter, which can be connected to three-phase networks and in parallel to increase power - MAP DOMINATOR, also has hybrid functions.
4. Without an additional attachment to the network inverter, it will not be possible to exclude the supply of energy to the industrial network, even if the SI is connected to the output of the hybrid inverter.
5. Installing an additional system kit with a solar MPPT controller is the height of inefficiency.
Now let’s calculate the price of the kit that a wealthy buyer writes about (for now, without solar panels and without batteries, which still need to be installed in his system).
Three-phase network inverter SolarLake 8500TL-PM - 125,000 rubles; attachment for network inverters – 20,000 rubles; three hybrid inverters Xtender XTM 4048 (by the way, with a rated power of only 4 kW each) – 540,000 rubles; one solar controller MPRT – 30,000 rubles.
In total, we get the total cost of a 3-phase system (with a power of up to 3 kW per phase at the peak of the sun, and a power of only 4 kW per phase when industrial electricity is turned off) - 715,000 rubles (and this does not take into account the joint venture and battery!).
Now let’s compare this with the correct system based on three hybrid inverters and three solar controllers - MAC HYBRID 48 V 6 kW 3 f 198,000 rubles; three IES DOMINATOR solar controllers (power up to 5 kW) – 90,000 rubles; additional solar panel 200 W (to compensate for lower efficiency) – 10,000 rubles.
Total 300,000 rubles versus 715,000 rubles. And at the same time we have a distribution of solar energy in phases depending on the need. And if you choose a HYBRID 48 V 9 kW 3F MAC (with a rating of 6 kW), then the total cost of the system would increase quite a bit, to 325,000 rubles. But the nominal output from the sun and with autonomy would increase to 5 - 6 kW for each phase, respectively. As they say - feel the difference! "The rich cry too..."
And finally, let’s dwell on the question - does it even make sense to import grid-connected inverters to Russia while we have such imperfect laws and such unreliable power grids?

It is correct to use network inverters in Russia if:

1. It will be possible, as abroad, to transfer energy to the network (that is, when this is officially permitted and appropriate meters appear, or if a person himself is ready to play tricks with old meters “with wheels” - they are actually already prohibited for installations...). However, in this case, you can install a hybrid inverter.

2. If we are talking about a powerful (megawatt) solar power plant, which again supplies electricity to the network. This is only permitted for organizations that comply with the requirements and for large solar panel capacities. True, our energy networks will buy solar electricity at a wholesale price.
3. If we are talking about an enterprise that consumes energy during the day (then it is not necessary to send it to the external network). Moreover, the power of installed network inverters with solar panels must be obviously lower than the power consumption of the enterprise.
In our opinion, this is all for Russia for now...
In all other cases, install either a conventional or hybrid inverter with batteries. And this is the right decision.

But in the future... In the future everything will change. Just as personal computers appeared after the first monstrous computers, so in the future, in addition to large solar, hydro and other power plants, most people will also have personal “green” solar power plants. Each building will have solar panels. And their energy production will be enough for electrical appliances, for heating, and even for cars (the latter may not necessarily be electric, but, for example, hydrogen, only hydrogen will be produced by electrolysis of water). And then our planet will not suffocate from carbon dioxide, and will not wither from the depletion of natural resources, and will not be poisoned by environmental pollution... It will be a bright future!