Often, a full-fledged heating system is not installed in the garage. This is due to the relatively rare use of the premises and its small area. But for long-term work in the cold season, it is recommended to make a garage oven from metal, which is quite possible with your own hands. Design drawings and specifications may vary depending on heating requirements.

Homemade stove for the garage: parameters and operating conditions

It is important to initially determine the location of the structure. It should not take up much space, and during operation it should not interfere with free movement around the garage or the performance of certain operations. Most often, a corner location of the stove is chosen.

The manufacture and installation of the furnace is carried out according to the following conditions:

• Mandatory installation of a chimney. Its height must be at least 3 meters.
• Fuel selection. The best option is to use firewood, coal or diesel fuel. Electric stoves or those running on bottled gas are much less common.
• Preparing the base for installing the boiler, installing heat-resistant materials on the walls.

Before starting this work, you need to choose the optimal stove design for the garage. The choice depends on the volume of the heated area, the presence of a hob and the overall budget. As an example, you can consider the drawings of the most suitable homemade products.

Scheme of a simple “potbelly stove”

This is the best option to save space. Structurally, the furnace consists of a cylindrical or cubic body, divided into a combustion chamber and an ash pan. It can be made from barrels. The thickness of the steel must be at least 1.5 mm. The socket for the chimney pipe is located at the rear of the structure to connect the vertical pipe.

• A gas cylinder can be used as a housing. It is first cleared of paint, holes are made for the doors, and a grate is installed.
• When making a metal case yourself, 1.5 mm thick steel is used, the connection is made by welding.
• The intensity of fuel combustion is regulated by changing the position of the ash pan door. This way the traction is controlled.
• Additionally, you can install a cutter - a shelf at 2/3 of the height of the combustion chamber. This contributes to economical consumption of burned fuel.

The advantage of this design is the ease of manufacture and the possibility of installing a hob. The disadvantage is high fuel consumption.

Long burning mini-boiler

For long-lasting garage heating, it is recommended to consider long-burning. The essence of its work is to use wood gases as fuel. They arise as a result of smoldering firewood. Unlike the option described above, a long-burning metal garage stove has a large chamber for loading fuel, a pressure system consisting of a telescopic pipe and a flat base. This block is located at the top of the structure.

After loading the fuel, it is ignited from below. Restricting the flow of oxygen provokes the process of smoldering. The resulting gas enters the afterburner chamber, where it is enriched with oxygen and ignites.

Features of the design:

• you can use a barrel or gas cylinder as a body;
• to enrich the gas with oxygen, install a low-power fan;
• the pipe for connecting the chimney is located horizontally;
• low temperature in the chimney pipe can cause condensation, so it is recommended to use sandwich structures.

The average operating time on one load of fuel can be 8-12 hours. This depends on the volume of the furnace and the speed of air supply to the afterburning chamber.

Waste oil garage oven

The principle is to use fuel vapor. To make it, you can also take a small gas cylinder. At the bottom there is a fuel container. The vapors rise through a pipe with holes, and a fire occurs there.

It is not recommended to use this model for a garage. This is due to the high probability of gas contamination in the room, since combustion products partially enter the garage before entering the chimney. There may also be problems with fuel storage.

When choosing a stove design for a garage, you should take into account the complexity of its maintenance and frequency of use. But the determining factors are the cost of the design and the complexity of its manufacture.

A private garage is a specific room and is usually very cold in winter. Such a microclimate is completely useless for either a person or a car. At the same time, the use of standard electric heaters often turns out to be too expensive and ineffective.

All that remains is to make a stove for the garage with your own hands, choosing one of the suitable options. We offer for consideration four methods of arranging stove heating, each of which has its own characteristics in creation and operation.

Visual diagrams and video instructions will help you decide on the design of the furnace, assemble and connect the unit yourself.

A major garage with insulation is not available to every car owner. Most often, the vehicle owner has a metal structure at his disposal, devoid of any insulation. Any thermal energy leaves such a structure almost instantly.

When solving the problem of heating a garage space, you should not estimate its heat requirement based on similar experience with a residential building. And it’s not just the lack of thermal insulation.

There is the so-called square-cube law, which states that when the dimensions of a geometric body decrease, the ratio of the surface area of ​​​​this body to its volume increases.

For normal storage of a car in a garage, the temperature inside the box should not fall below +5º and rise above +18º during the presence of the owners and repair work. The requirements are regulated by SP 113.13330.2012

This affects the size of the heat loss of the object, so to heat one cubic meter of a small room, for example, a garage, more heat is needed than to heat a large house.

If for a two-story building a heating device with a power of 10 kW may be sufficient, then for a much smaller garage you will need a unit with a productivity of about 2-2.5 kW of thermal energy.

To maintain a very modest operating temperature of 16°C, a 1.8 kW stove is sufficient. If you only need to maintain the optimal temperature for storing a car in a parking lot - 8°C - a 1.2 kW unit is suitable.

It turns out that fuel consumption for heating a unit volume of garage space can be twice as high as that for a residential building.

To thoroughly warm up the entire garage, its walls and floor, you will need even more thermal energy, i.e. an even more powerful heater. But even with insulation, heat will leave the room too quickly. Therefore, it is recommended to heat not the entire garage, but only the so-called workspace.

Using insulation: pros and cons

Economy-class garages are almost never insulated on the outside for a very simple reason - it is too expensive for a room that is not constantly used. Yes, this is not always possible, for example, in garage cooperatives, buildings are placed very close to each other, the gap does not allow installation of insulation.

To insulate a garage, you can use materials such as fiberboard, which extinguish when caught on fire. The use of plastic in such a room is unacceptable

But the internal thermal insulation of a garage can also be problematic. When installing insulation material directly on metal walls, a so-called dew point occurs at the point of their contact, i.e. place where condensation accumulates. Almost always, when in contact with moisture, insulation becomes unusable quite quickly.

And for the structure itself, such a situation can be disastrous. Insulation can be installed in a metal garage, but it is better to install a suitable material at some distance from the wall, about 20-50 mm.

You should retreat 50-70 mm from the floor. It is best to use washers as a profile to avoid creating closed contours under the coating.

With this installation option, condensation will also appear, but thanks to air circulation under the insulation layer, the moisture will gradually evaporate without causing any noticeable harm to the structure.

However, for a garage that is constantly heated, this option is not suitable, since the indoor humidity will be excessively high most of the time. This will put both the health of people and the condition of the vehicle at risk.

When insulating a metal structure, it is necessary to leave a ventilation gap between it and the insulating material for regular drainage of condensate

As a material for such “ventilated” insulation, it is recommended to use slabs, for example, fiberboard, chipboard, that is, wood materials that self-extinguish upon fire. Recommended thickness is about 5 mm.

Flat ondulin or its analogues are perfect. These materials have the ability to reflect infrared radiation, which provides effective heating.

But plastic, even with attenuation properties, is strictly not recommended to be placed in the garage. When ignited, such materials emit toxic fumes, which can cause poisoning to people who escaped the fire. It is also prohibited to use slabs containing asbestos as insulation.

When insulating a cold brick garage, it is recommended to first plaster the walls with vermiculite to protect them from moisture. The walls of a metal garage should be painted in two layers, having previously primed the base.

The walls of an insulated garage must be treated with a water-repellent compound to protect the building from the destructive effects of condensation

Overview of possible options

For the garage, the following options for homemade stoves are most often used:

• brick wood stove;
• potbelly stove;
• long burning stove;
• furnace in progress.

Each of these DIY garage oven options has certain advantages and disadvantages. Some units can be combined to expand your garage heating options and make this process more convenient and profitable.

In the construction of a small stove for the garage, you can use virtually waste tools and materials, these are:

Image gallery

Conclusions and useful video on the topic

Video presentation of a stove-based autonomous heating system in a garage:

The options for homemade stoves are quite varied, and the designs of such devices are not particularly complex. You will need skills in working with metal, a welding machine and quite affordable materials. A properly manufactured stove operates efficiently and lasts a long time.

Looking for an effective way to heat your garage? Or do you have experience making and using a stove? Please leave comments on the article and ask questions on the topic.

A simple do-it-yourself wood-burning garage stove can be made from different materials - brick, an old gas cylinder or a metal barrel with thick walls. A wood-burning stove can also be made from a piece of thick-walled pipe.

The main thing, when installing a solid fuel stove in the garage, is to arrange good ventilation of the room - forced or natural.

It is easy to make the following solid fuel stove designs yourself:

• – reliable and safe, requires some bricklaying skills;
• potbelly stove - easy to make from pipes, cylinders or thick-walled barrels;
• long-burning wood-burning stoves - you will need a cone firebox (cylinder, pipe) and a welding machine;
• waste oil stove - you will need pipes, a drill, welding and a diagram. Be sure to protect the oven from moisture and dampness.

If we compare designs, potbelly stoves heat up quickly, but do not retain heat, unlike bricks. Long-burning stoves require strict adherence to the dimensions according to the diagram, and waste oil stoves cannot be installed in garages made of flammable materials.

Option one - reliable and efficient brick

Sequential scheme for laying bricks in a simple stove for a garage

Brick wood-burning is a traditional reliable heating option. Compared to metal boilers and potbelly stoves, brick is safer, but such a stove takes longer to heat up and also cools down.

In order to build a wood-burning brick oven with your own hands, you will need the following materials:

• fire brick;
• high fat clay for masonry mortar. It is easier to buy ready-made refractory mortar for laying refractory bricks; it contains all the necessary additives.

Advice. Check the fat content by rolling a ball out of wet clay. If such a ball, thrown on the floor, cracks, then the clay is not suitable - low elasticity (fat content). Masonry clay must be soaked for at least 24 hours before mixing the solution.

• cement M300 and sand for the cement foundation of the stove;
• doors for the ash pit and firebox;
• grate material;
• asbestos thread for sealing;
• chimney valve;
• chimney pipe – asbestos or two-layer stainless steel.

Advice. If you make the chimney removable, then in the summer you can use the hole as additional natural ventilation.

We choose a place for the stove so that the chimney does not come into contact with the roofing and the stove does not interfere with movement.

The sequence of laying a simple brick stove for a garage, dimensions 60x60 cm, this is quite enough for a standard garage:

• The foundation for a small stove should not be made strong; 50 cm is enough. If you plan to have a tall stove, you can perform additional reinforcement of the foundation cement screed.

Note. If the garage has a concrete screed, then the foundation for the stove does not need to be poured.

• after the cement has hardened, you need to lay 2 layers of waterproofing (roofing felt) and you can start laying the furnace;
• solid base of the furnace - two continuous rows of bricks;
• We expose the ash pan door, fixing it with wire on four sides for rigidity. The wire is fixed with masonry mortar;
• ordering a brick oven for a garage - the order of masonry is easier to understand by watching the video material.

During the laying process, we check each row with a water level; it is important to maintain horizontal and vertical lines. Installation of the grate additionally requires sealing with asbestos thread.

You can upgrade a brick stove to the “rocket” type, in which case the heat transfer is doubled by using the heat of the chimney pipes.

When a brick oven is built with your own hands, you cannot immediately test and heat it. The masonry needs to be completely dry.

Option two - homemade potbelly stove

If you have a welding machine, potbelly stoves, proven and simple designs, can be made in one day. To fire a potbelly stove, you can use thick-walled pipes, barrels and gas cylinders. A rectangular potbelly stove can be welded from a metal corner and steel sheets (3 mm thick).

Important rules for locating a potbelly stove in the garage

In order to avoid fire, you must follow the following fire safety rules when installing a homemade potbelly stove:

• distance to walls and flammable objects - a meter, distance to a brick wall - 0.5 meters;
• the walls and ceiling around the stove are additionally sheathed with sheets of metal;
• a thick metal sheet is placed under the stove - 10 mm or a cement screed is made - thickness 20 cm;
• It is necessary to install ventilation (forced or natural) so that if there is smoke there is no trouble. A 5 cm gap under the garage door or two exhaust vents under the roof will ensure sufficient natural ventilation of the room.

The distance from the stove to the car must be at least two meters. If you come into close contact with the hot walls of the stove, there is a risk of damage to the paint or ignition of the fuel.

An additional protective casing made of brick walls will not only create a convection flow of warm air and increase heat transfer, but also ensure safety.

Note. Only square or rectangular potbelly stoves can be covered with bricks. A furnace in the form of a cylinder requires a special design of the casing, in the form of side metal ribs. A brick casing for the cylinder will reduce heat transfer and lead to rapid burning of the walls.

How to make a simple square potbelly stove

For a standard garage, a heating device 30 x 30, 50 cm high is quite enough. The diameter of the pipe for a potbelly stove is at least 30 cm, the wall thickness is at least 5 mm. For a chimney, a pipe with a diameter of 12–15 cm and a thickness of 3 mm is suitable. To prevent the chimney pipe from quickly becoming frozen, it is wrapped on the outside with a layer of mineral wool.

Work order:

• First, we draw the cutting of the stove parts, determine all the dimensions;
• we cut out the necessary parts from sheet metal to size;
• First, we weld the walls and bottom of the oven together, but only grab them. To be able to set all sides strictly according to level;
• after checking the vertical and horizontal lines, you can weld all connections using a T-weld;
• We install the lower partition into the finished housing. You immediately need to drill holes in it to remove ash (the step between the holes is one and a half centimeters, from the walls - 5 cm);
• the partition is located no lower than 10 cm from the bottom;
• cut out a circle in the back wall to install the chimney pipe;
• firebox and blower doors - distance from the wall - 5 cm;
• when attaching the door curtains, you need to take into account that they will sag due to temperature, so we attach them 2 cm higher;
• The last to be installed are the legs of the potbelly stove - the height is at least 15 cm and the top sheet of the stove is installed.

In order to obtain maximum heat transfer, the stove pipe should not be straight. It is necessary to install pipes with two 30-degree turns and lead them through the wall of the garage. Then the combustion products will give off all the heat not to the street, but to the room.

The video shows how to make a simple potbelly stove from a metal sheet and corners and from an old gas cylinder.

Option three - waste oil stove

This heating device provides maximum heat transfer and requires virtually no fuel costs - there is always used oil in the garage. The only disadvantage of this stove is that it requires a high chimney, and combustion products create soot that will have to be cleaned frequently.

Mini wheels for cars. Let's watch the video, making such a stove is a couple of trifles.

Option four - long-burning wood stove

Maintaining a positive temperature in a garage is difficult, especially in a metal or profile structure, even insulated. Therefore, long-burning stoves are the best solution for a garage, where you just need to maintain the temperature above zero, so as not to warm up the engine every day and not spoil the spark plugs or drain the battery.

Such a stove can be made from an old gas cylinder, sheets of metal and even brick. The point is that in such a stove the access of air to the firebox is limited and the wood does not burn, but smolders, maximizing the fuel efficiency.

By placing firewood into such a stove from above, the fuel is pressed as it burns by a metal piston.

From a simple old barrel you can make a heating device for a garage that runs on sawdust, ash and construction waste.

Even if you make a long-burning stove completely correctly with your own hands, you may not achieve maximum heat and the consumption of wood will be high. The reason is incorrect fuel filling. Firewood cannot be stacked vertically in the stove - only horizontal stacking.

The video describes the reasons why fuel in a stove with wood on top does not burn out completely.

As a conclusion, is it possible to heat a garage with such a wood stove? If you follow important safety rules, then such heating devices are an excellent alternative solution for small garages without an electrical connection.

What is important to remember:

• you need high-quality garage ventilation to avoid smoke fumes and fire;
• it is necessary to protect the metal parts of the heating device with a casing made of fire-resistant materials;
• the chimney must be routed so that it does not come into contact with the wooden rafters of the roof;
• there must be at least two meters from the hot walls of the stove to the car;
• Water from the chimney must not be allowed to enter the firebox; a protective cap must be installed on the pipe;
• choose durable materials for the stove;
• a waste oil stove may explode if moisture gets into the firebox;
• To prevent condensation from flooding the chimney, it is insulated with mineral wool and foil or removable galvanized pipes with internal insulation with mineral wool are installed.

The safest option for any garage is a long-burning brick stove or one protected by a casing made of refractory bricks.

Unfortunately, heating is not provided for garages (although perhaps fortunately, given current tariffs), so you have to heat yourself. Well, any heating is a stove. In this case, it should be small, but effective - you need to quickly bring the room from a “minus” to a good “plus”. So when choosing a design, do not forget that the garage stove should light up quickly and easily. It would also be desirable that it could be heated with waste - it is very expensive to buy good firewood, and there is nowhere to store it. Well, there is one more requirement - the design must be simple, so that you can easily do it yourself.

What kind of stoves can be made for a garage

It is very unpleasant to be in a cold garage in winter. That's why heating is required. Garage stoves are usually small steel stoves such as potbelly stoves. They are made from thick-walled barrels, pipe sections or gas cylinders. Such garage stoves are simpler to make and require only minor modifications, since the body, and sometimes the bottom, is already there. Stoves are also made from sheet metal, but these are options for those who are close friends with. Brick stoves are not very common in garages - they are still larger in size and heat up less, which is not entirely suitable for this case.

The most common stoves are those that burn wood; everything that burns is stored in them. Such omnivorousness and fast heating are their main advantages. They also have many disadvantages, and one of them is gluttony, which is why recently they have begun to make more economical long-burning stoves. Typically the top combustion principle is used. They are good because one full load (a stove made from a 50-liter propane cylinder) can burn for up to 8 hours. All this time it is warm in the garage.

They walk apart. There is plenty of such fuel in garages, but you have to be careful with the waste - it contains heavy metals and excellent traction is required to prevent them from getting inside.

Potbelly stoves - proven and simple designs

Potbelly stoves were a hit of the 20s of the last century. At that time, these stoves competed with brick stoves and were installed everywhere, even in apartments. Later, with the advent of centralized heating, they lost their relevance, but are used in garages, dachas, and for heating utility or outbuildings.

Potbelly stoves from a cylinder, barrel or pipe

The most suitable material for making a potbelly stove for a garage is propane cylinders or a pipe with a thick wall. Barrels are also suitable, but you need to look for ones that are not very large in volume and have a thick wall. In any option, the minimum wall thickness is 2-3 mm, the optimal is 5 mm. Such a stove will serve for many years.

By design they are vertical and horizontal. It is more convenient to burn horizontally with firewood - longer logs will fit. It’s easier to make one extended upward, but the firebox is small in size, so you’ll have to cut the wood finely.

Vertical

First, how to make a vertical stove for a garage from a cylinder or pipe. Divide the selected segment into two unequal parts. Below is a smaller one for collecting ash, above is the main one for storing firewood. The following is the order of work:

Overall, that's it. All that remains is to assemble the chimney and you can test a new stove for the garage.

Horizontal

If the housing is located horizontally, the ash box is usually welded from below. It can be welded to the required dimensions from sheet steel or a piece of channel of a suitable size can be used. Holes are made in the part of the body that will be directed downwards. It’s better to cut something like grate bars.

Then in the upper part of the body we make a pipe for the chimney. To do this, you can weld a cut piece from a pipe of a suitable diameter. After the piece of pipe is installed and the seam is checked, the metal inside the ring is cut out.

The next step is installing the doors. You can cut a piece of metal onto the ash pan, attach hinges and a lock. There are no special problems here. The gaps around the edges do not interfere - combustion air will flow through them.

There will be no difficulties if you are making a door from metal - welding the hinges is not a problem. Only here, in order to be able to at least slightly regulate the combustion, the door needs to be made a little larger - so that the perimeter of the opening is closed.

It is problematic to install furnace casting. Suddenly someone wants to have a cast iron door instead of a steel one. Then you need to weld a frame from a steel corner, attach the casting to it with bolts, and weld this entire structure to the body.

From two barrels

Anyone who has used a potbelly stove knows that very hard radiation comes from its body. Often the walls become heated to a red glow. Then it is impossible to be near her. The problem is solved with an interesting design: two barrels of different diameters, inserted one into the other. The gaps between the walls are filled with pebbles, clay mixed with sand (calcined over a fire, then filled in only after it has cooled). The inner barrel acts as a firebox, and the outer one is just the body.

This stove will take longer to heat up. It will not immediately begin to give off heat, but it will be more comfortable in the garage and after the fuel burns out, it will warm the room for another couple of hours - releasing the heat accumulated in the bookmark.

Long-burning garage stove

From the same gas cylinder you can make a stove for a long-burning garage. There are different designs, but the most proven and stable working is called Bubafonya - after the nickname of the author who invented it and posted it on one of the forums. This was about 5-6 years ago. Since then, many people have had this miracle - a simple and original design, high efficiency and the fact that you can lay not only firewood, but also shavings and even sawdust. You can even modify Bubafonya for water heating in the garage, which has been done more than once (water jacket around the body).

Long-burning wood stove for garage (diagram and photo)

This homemade wood stove has only one drawback - in order to remove the ash, you will have to turn the body upside down. True, there are already improvements that eliminate this drawback. If you have a welding machine, you can make such a stove for your garage with your own hands in a few hours - it’s very easy to make.

Design

This stove uses the principle of top combustion: wood burns from above, the flame spreads down as the upper layers burn out. This explains the long period of time for combustion - the flame spreads downwards much more slowly. However, the heating is effective. Already in the first minutes, a sufficient amount of heat begins to be released.

This stove is traditionally round and vertical. The body is a regular cylinder with a bottom without a welded lid. The main focus is the shape and structure of the moving part. It is often called "cargo", but this is only one of the functions. This part also supplies air to the combustion zone. She represents a metal circle to which a pipe is welded in the middle. On the back side of the metal circle - from the center to the edges - corners or pieces of a small channel are welded. These are air ducts through which air flows to the periphery of the combustion area. There is also a lid with a hole cut out in the center through which the weight pipe is passed. The smoke pipe is welded almost at the very top of the housing. Its horizontal part should not be more than 40 cm, then the pipe rises upward. The height of the chimney is at least 2-3 meters, but it must be determined by the draft - so that in any weather the smoke does not go into the garage.

Principle of operation

Having filled the body with firewood mixed with shavings and sawdust, the firebox is lit. Place a lid on the pipe and, when the flame flares up, place the lid on top. Since the pipe is hollow, air is supplied through it into the combustion zone, which supports combustion.

The diameter of the “load” circle is slightly smaller than the diameter of the body - through this gap, combustion products enter the upper part (labeled “secondary combustion chamber” in the figure). As is known, they themselves are flammable and can generate a large amount of heat. In this zone, with a well-heated oven, these gases ignite. Combustion air comes from a gap in the cover in the pipe passage area. Something can “pull up” in a circle. It's not that important. It is important that the lid should not be made airtight and that because of this, the draft in the pipe must be excellent.

The gases ignited in the upper part produce no less heat than burning wood. This explains the heating efficiency when using this design. Burnt gases exit into the chimney. As it burns, the load drops lower and lower until the entire load is burned out. After the stove goes out and cools down, you can add a new batch of firewood and start the process all over again. You have to remove the ash after several fires - the firewood burns completely, leaving only a small pile of ash and a couple of coals from the lowest firewood.

This is the kind of “wood” that this garage stove is heated with.

Here is a brief summary of the operating principle of this unit. As you can see, there is not only top combustion, but also afterburning of gases. A very simple design that works really well.

Manufacturing process

Most likely you already understand how to do everything, but we will briefly describe the process. First, let's talk about the materials that are needed for this stove. The most commonly used are 50-liter propane cylinders. A barrel with thick walls and a piece of pipe with a diameter of 300 mm to 600 mm are also suitable. The height of the finished case is from 110 cm to 200 cm. In addition, you will need:

These are all the necessary materials. Now let’s talk about what and how to do. We will assume that we make a garage stove from a gas cylinder.

That's all. I made a stove for the garage with my own hands.

Improvements

Improvements to the design improve ease of use. The biggest inconvenience is the need to turn the heavy body over in order to shake out the ash. To get rid of this, an ash pan and traditional grates are made in the lower part. The solution is understandable, but this innovation can lead to the fact that the firewood will burn faster - air will leak through the door cracks. If there is a lot of oxygen in the lower part, the wood will burn quickly, and not in the smoldering mode, as happens in the original design. The solution is to make the door airtight, with sides and a seal.

Efficient and economical garage stove - drawing with dimensions

The second improvement concerns the number and shape of fins on the air duct disk. They are made not from angles or channels, but from steel strips. They are bent and slightly shifted, so that the air passing through seems to twist. 6-8 pieces are welded instead of the original 4. This alteration gives only advantages - the air is distributed more evenly over the combustion zone, the firewood burns evenly over the entire area.

Brick stoves provide gentler heat, but until they heat up themselves, they will not heat the garage. If you plan to heat every day, this option is good. If the garage will be heated periodically, it is better to make a metal stove - heating up a frozen brick stove is long and tedious, and it will start heating in about two hours.

For those who decide to install a brick stove in the garage, we will lay out the order of a small (relatively) stove with a heating shield and a hob (just in case).

The stove is made of solid ceramic bricks (not burnt). Excluding combat, 290 pieces are required. The masonry should be laid using clay mortar, the thickness of the seams is about 0.5-1.8 cm.

This furnace requires a separate foundation - the weight will be about 500 kg. Its dimensions are 15-20 cm larger than the dimensions of the oven.

It is desirable to lining the firebox (laying fireclay bricks on fireclay mortar). Bricks are ground down for furnace casting. The dimensions of the bed for the grate, stove and doors must be larger than the dimensions of the casting. The gap is necessary to compensate for thermal expansion and also for laying a thermal insulation layer around the doors. This will reduce the formation of cracks near them (due to different thermal expansion).

Asbestos cord was traditionally used as a thermal insulation material. If you don't want to deal with asbestos, you can cut mineral wool cardboard into strips. Only it must withstand very high temperatures - up to 1200°C (minimum 850°C).

Installed in the 6th row, the valve allows you to switch the stove into winter and summer modes. This is convenient in the off-season, when full power is not required, but it is already damp.

The height of the oven can be increased by repeating rows 14 and 15.

Watch the video for the process of pre-laying a stove without mortar (recommended in order to select bricks and understand what’s what).

Drawings and diagrams

It would take a long time to describe all the designs. Much can be understood from the drawings.

To heat your garage, you can easily make a wood-burning stove with your own hands. This will not take much time and will be very inexpensive, since you can use scrap materials.

Why do you need to heat non-residential premises?

State standards establish that the air temperature in the garage should not fall below +5°C. If these standards are not adhered to, the engine will not start, especially after the vehicle has been idle for a long time.

In extreme cold, even antifreeze can freeze. The number of car breakdowns due to the negative effects of hardened water is significantly increasing. Also, you will agree that it is much more comfortable to carry out vehicle repairs in a warm environment.

Advantages and disadvantages of heating with wood

By choosing solid fuel as an energy source for heating your garage, you can get the following advantages:

• low cost of firewood;
• no need to buy expensive installations and spend additional money on electricity;
• small dimensions of the stove with high productivity rates;
• the heating device can additionally be used for cooking and heating food;
• ease of manufacture and installation of wood-fired installations. There is no need to additionally equip a massive foundation.

The disadvantages include that such heating devices heat up quickly, but at the same time they also quickly release heat to the environment. To maintain the optimal temperature, you need to constantly add fresh firewood. Fuel consumption increases significantly.

Types of heating devices

To heat a garage, you can make the following types of stoves with your own hands:

• potbelly stove with a metal body;
• brick oven;
• long-burning heater.

To install a potbelly stove yourself, you need to have skills in working with a grinder and a welding machine. In this case, brickwork is much easier to produce.

Potbelly stove - manufacturing features and structural elements

Potbelly stove diagram

This is a fairly simple design, which consists of the following elements:

• loading chamber or firebox;
• grate;
• blower;
• ash pan;
• metal door;
• chimney.

To make the installation, use thick metal 4 mm thick. When attaching the chimney pipe to the upper wall of the combustion chamber, it must be strengthened. This place is considered the weakest; metal most often burns out here.

Use a strong metal mesh as a grate. You can take a ready-made one or make it yourself from a corner or wire. Make many small holes in the grate to remove ash.

Step-by-step instructions for making a potbelly stove from a steel pipe

1. Use a steel pipe with a diameter of 0.4-0.5 m and a length of 1 m, to which you need to weld the legs.
2. From a steel sheet, cut two circles of the same diameter as the pipe.
3. In one circle, make a door for the firebox and a hole for the ash pan.
4. The length of the grate is equal to the length of the potbelly stove, and the maximum width is equal to the diameter. It is best to use a metal mesh with a width slightly smaller than the diameter of the housing. Insert it into the pipe and weld it to the walls.
5. Weld metal circles to the pipe. Monitor the quality of the seam to ensure the stove is sealed.
6. Near the hole in the circle, attach hinges onto which you will place the doors.
7. On the housing cover closer to the rear wall, make a hole with a diameter of 100 mm for the chimney pipe.

The following wood-burning stove design for a garage is suitable if you do not have a metal pipe. It’s very easy to make it yourself, using scraps of metal.

Manufacturing technology:

Brick stove

To install a brick oven for a garage with your own hands, you will need to additionally fill a small slab foundation 200 mm deep. Line the combustion chamber completely with refractory bricks.

On the front wall of the structure, leave a window for the door and vent. Using pieces of brick, make small protrusions at the bottom of the heater for installing a grate.

To install the cover, place the fittings on the walls. Lay 1-2 rows of bricks on top.

You can also use a metal sheet to arrange the top wall. Place it on the stove, then cover the cracks with fireclay clay. At the top of the device, provide a hole for the chimney.

Design of long-burning furnaces

Thanks to the presence of a special damper, homemade stoves of this type are very effective, since the wood does not burn, but smolders for a long time. With the help of vents you can control the intensity of the flame and the power of the heating device.

Schematic representation of a long-burning furnace

To make a garage heating installation with your own hands, you need to use a metal tank with a volume of 200 liters. In its upper part, make a hole for the chimney with a diameter of 150 mm. Also provide a hole for the pipeline through which fresh air will flow into the barrel.

For the weight, cut a circle of metal that matches the diameter of the barrel. Weld channels to it. Also make a hole with a diameter of 100 mm, where you insert a small piece of pipe. Place such a load in a barrel under the lid. Make two holes in the body of the heater to supply fuel and remove ash. Additionally equip each of them with doors.

Making a heating device with your own hands is quite simple, using simple materials - a metal sheet or barrel, corners, pipes, bricks.

Video: Super potbelly stove for the garage